Elderly traveler questions

In August I would want a/c and therefore would chose to stay in hotels with it guaranteed. Apartments rarely have a/c in Europe. I think a/c is important for your mother at her age.

We were in Paris during a major heatwave in August 2003 and have been back to Paris several times when temperatures were hot but not drastic and lingering. We learned that buildings and pavement retain heat and do not cool off much at night. Since the big heatwave of 2003, most apartments and hotels now provide fans or air conditioning in the bedrooms. That summer there were no fans to be purchased anywhere. We would get up during the night, step into the warm shower—the walls were warm to touch, spray ourselves with water and get back in bed.

As far as pacing with an older person who may have trouble walking long distances, plan plenty of cafe time for a cool drink and park bench time.

Taxis can be used if Metro stations have too many stairs.

I also suggest you download the app for the taxi company, G7. I traveled in the Fall with a friend who was having some back pain. We used G7 a lot and wow, it was handy (except for the time we tried to get a cab during a downpour, lol!!). I also suggest you have an international phone plan so you can book a cab from wherever you are if she gives out and you are in a spot where it's hard to hail a cab.

Most museums have loaner wheelchairs. We used them in the Louvre, Orangerie and Rodin. The tough thing about the Louvre is that it is sometimes difficult to find an elevator that goes where you want to, haha. It was an adventure! Both of us had been there before so when we couldn't get somewhere it was no big deal for either of us. We did run in to several of the little elevators that navigate a half a floor that were broken so that kind of stymied us a couple of times. At one point she walked up a short flight and I heaved the WC up.

As the wheelchair pusher, I had some fatigue. I'd definitely suggest working on some upper body strength if you don't already have a strength training regime.

I was in Paris for the heat wave in 2016 and thought I would croak. I don't tolerate heat very well and I wound up being back in the hotel room by 3 each day. It was not cool enough for me to enjoy eating outside by 7-8P but it might feel different to you. I did not think it cooled off well at all for the hottest days...which were around 97F. Don't even ask why I chose that time of year to go, lol...

At Versailles, I highly recommend renting a golf cart in the gardens to get around. Get there early as they run out and it can be a long wait for someone to return theirs. They’re expensive but very worth it.

I’ve been in Paris during record breaking heat waves several times, including the horrific 2003 heatwave Mona mentioned, and it is very difficult to move around the city. We would sit outside at a café for 30 min, walk a few blocks, sit outside at another café, etc.

The Luxembourg Gardens are fabulous, do not miss spending a few hours there. It’s also a great place when it’s very hot. It has food, cafés, bathrooms, shade, and very comfortable chairs.

JillT, being from your part of the country, I'm going to disagree somewhat with some of the previous posters. In general, under normal or near normal circumstances, the heat in France or Italy is nothing like Texas. Now, when you say the evenings at home cool down to about 80, could you and your mom be comfortable with a fan then? If so, I'd say the odds are definitely in your favor.

Now, I'm biased the other way. We're in Oklahoma, and we do not use a/c at home. We almost never are really uncomfortable at night. We do have an attic fan, which I hit as soon as the temps fall, then I turn it off at bedtime because I don't like the noise. Then about 6:00 in the morning, I turn it on again to cool the house down before the heat of the day.

This works for us, but I do know most of our friends think we're crazy. It really is what you're used to. My dad had a/c, but he set the thermostat at 79 or 80, and was fine. If your mom sets the a/c at 68, the way my Texas sis-in-law did, then August in France may not be for her.

If you have a well-ventilated apartment, I think you'll probably be okay. The only time we've used a/c in Europe was when the temps were over 95, and we had a hotel room with one tiny window that opened onto a black roof. Our last time in France in the summer (not August,) our hotel had huge windows, and kept fresh air flowing through the building all day. We had a fan, but never used it.

I would also chose AC. You will be out and about in heat. That may not be the norm. Many people go from an air conditioned house to air conditioned car to air conditioned restaurant/shop. When traveling, you can’t count on restaurants having AC. so coming home to an air conditioned room can feel like bliss. I recommend the jr. suites at Residences des Artes. Charming small hotel with tiny elevator. But the jr. suites are very large, with a huge king bed, tons of storage, a separate sitting room with mini kitchenette and a huge bathroom. The location is perfect.

For Versailles, you could rent a golf court to explore the gardens. There’s also a tram that takes you to various stops.

For Sacre Coeur, you could take the funicular up part of the way, for a great view of both the exterior of the church and the city.

Here is a site that has metro accessibility info: https://www.parisinsidersguide.com/accessible-metro-stations.html

As another one who spent August of 2003 in Paris and lived in an apartment during the heat wave -- yes with an elderly person used to AC absolutely get an air conditioned hotel or aparthotel Almost no apartments have real AC. Our apartment had terrific cross ventilation and it still was in the 80sF overnight. I was much younger then and my then 20ish daughter was visiting -- at my age now, about the same as your Mom -- no way I'd be there in August without AC. It will probably not be THAT bad, but apartments don't always have great ventilation and often don't cool down. We stay in an unairconditioned place and it really doesn't cool down much at night -- but we don't stay there past the end of May.

I'd make one visit to Versailles with a timed ticket to limit line waiting and personally would do it on a fountain day since the garden really is magnificent when the fountains are running -- and not that interesting when they aren't. I would forgo the Trianon and the Hameau but if you want to go over there, there is a sort of shuttle trolley --- but frankly touring the chateau, having lunch and visiting some of the fountains in the garden is plenty.

The Louvre has wheelchairs and while it is filled with stairs, there is an elevator for every staircase. You will learn to spot them around corners and if you don't, a guard can assist whether you are using a wheelchair or not. IN order to get consideration in lines and on buses, it would be prudent for your mother to use a cane as a signal that she needs a seat. People 75 and older are supposed to have priority for seats on buses, but buses in my experience often are filled with older and disabled people. I in my late 70s have often had to get up and give up my seat as people clearly more in need board. The metro is hell for people with knee issues -- there can be half a dozen steep staircases in a typical ride. So get a good bus map and plan to use buses.

There are a couple of lines of the metro that have good access -- line 1 and 14 -- but mostly not. I'd avoid the metro.

I took my mother to Florence and Rome when she was 80 and had some mobility issues and it was hard -- but it was one of the most rewarding things I ever did and I still remember that trip with joy. One of the things we did a lot was sit at cafes outdoors. Up to that point I had mostly not done that because it was expensive, but with her we sat and had ice cream or coffee and watched the world go by. We limited the number of things we did and made it easy on ourselves. Paris is easier than Rome and there are outdoor cafes everywhere so you can take it easy.

For anyone with a mobility issue, I strongly recommend considering the Paris buses. On our last trip, in 2019, prior to a much needed foot surgery, stairs were very difficult for me. I quickly discovered how easy, comfortable and well-connected the city buses are. They can take more time and can get caught in traffic, but the trade off is ease of use and you get to look out the window! In addition to stairs, be aware of cobblestones and loose gravel that present a mobility challenge that may not be addressed with a wheelchair.

We were in Paris in July 2009 during a heat wave, temps in the 90s. Luckily we had A/C in our hotel room but I do remember making a no-more-summer-city-travel pact with my family. I live in the Pacific Northwest where 80 is a scorcher, so I may have over reacted. : )

I would definitely use the bus rather than the metro. You get to see a bit of the city without climbing stairs. I would take her to jardin les plantes. There were places to sit and enjoy the flowers.
The bus stop is very close too.

Have fun with your mom.

Texas native here (San Antonio) who now lives in the desert outside of Tucson. I'm also 76 with bad knees.

I agree with those who say to get lodgings with air conditioning. In the summer, we keep our thermostat at 77° or higher and use our ceiling fans, so we are not in the truly refrigerated air crowd. That makes typical European AC just about right for us. I'm not fond of open windows due to the lack of screens and the noise.

Even if the price is higher, a place with an elevator will be well worth the money. Has your mother ever gotten any shots in her knee? I get shots in my knees before each trip, but my osteoarthritis still requires that I do stairs one at a time, making me quite slow. Keep that in mind because as hard as you try to avoid them, there will still be places where she will need to go up or down a few steps.

You've been told about the accessibility options for the grounds at Versailles, but research it online to see what might be possible inside the palace. Even with a timed ticket, you will still need to wait outside to go through security. There may be some other options if she's in a wheelchair.

Where we waited was in a long line on gigantic, very round and slippery (it was raining) cobblestones. I was not wearing the best shoes for that and I thought I was going to fall as I minced my way across them.

That experience ended my days of trying to be fashionable anywhere and now I wear lace-up, waterproof, breathable ankle boots exclusively on my trips. They have kept me from turning my ankle and falling on cobblestones or broken pavement on more than one occasion.

My favorites are Keens like these. And these exact Danskos.

I wear them with Sockwell Moderate (15-20mmHg) Graduated Compression socks which keep my feet cool or warm as needed and dry, as well as help fight fatigue. They're not cheap, but there are many styles to choose from and you should be able to get to them with this link.

I agree with those who advocate taking the bus instead of the Metro whenever possible. I love taking the bus because I'm never in a big hurry and I like seeing where I'm going. Remember that you will need to take a local train to Versailles and unless you take a taxi for the short distance to the waiting area, it is a bit of a walk that could be challenging for your mom.

At Versailles there is a very nice restaurant on the grounds. You must make reservations for it. That's one reason to get a golf cart or take the shuttle around the grounds.

Another is to get an idea of the size of the place. It's immense and riding around certainly made me understand why there are drawings and paintings with people on horses or in carriages, as well as how there could be hunting there or how easy it would be to sneak off for a tryst.

You need a/c.

I’m from Oklahoma, grew up with those same temps. It gets miserable here — I’m speaking of Paris — at a much lower temperature than back at home. (You may also be hardier than me — Jane certainly is!! — but I still think what I’m going to say is generally true for most folks.)

1. At home you go from air-conditioned home to air-conditioned car to air-conditioned shop/church/friend’s home/restaurant whatever.
   

You may not be out in the heat that much at all.

That doesn’t happen here. It’s hot everywhere. The exceptions are the places that provide some air-conditioned comfort.

1. These buildings are built to retain any heat possible. And they do it well.

A few nights every year (and unfortunately, more each year) are absolutely miserable for sleeping, because the temperature doesn’t drop, and the building and room stay hot. Make that even worse if you haven’t prepared your apartment prior to leaving for the day (closing the windows and shutters to keep the heat from building during the day).

Your time here may not coincide with some of those miserable days — but you can’t guarantee that it won’t. In order to insure against that possibility, I wouldn’t stay anywhere but somewhere with a/c. If an apartment does have a/c, it’s usually just a “penguin” - one of those stand-alone units that only cools one room. Make sure there are penguins in EACH of your sleeping rooms if you go the apartment route. A hotel with a/c will be much more comfortable.

1. When it’s hot here, I can spend the day in my air-conditioned office during the week, and then come home and lie low. I can minimize my outings on the weekends and just lie around and veg and wait for the heat to pass. As a tourist visiting Paris, you’ve paid a lot of money to be here, so you will be (naturally) wanting to maximize the time you are out seeing and doing things.

To wrap up - hopefully you get lucky, and it’s just “normal” summer when you come. But in order to try to set yourselves up for the best visit possible, you have to assume that it will be hot, and prepare accordingly. Then, you will be able to enjoy yourselves more.

Firstly, not knowing your budget, I would recommend your staying in a hotel, not an apartment. The apartment rental picture in Paris has change dramatically in the last year or two, and there are far fewer choices than there were before the government clamped down on illegal rentals. Hotels will have air conditioning, typically important, particularly for those from the USA.

If there are mobility issues, you may want to rely upon buses, taxis, or VTCs, i.e. Bolt, FreeNow, or perhaps Uber (which would be my last choice). Download the apps in advance, be prepared. The RATP advertises that they have a thousand escalators in use in Paris, which I have no doubt is true, but most only operate for a portion of what is required to reach ground level, leaving a number of steps still required of passengers. Generally, you can access the RER station in Paris with elevators or escalators.

Many apartments are converted chambres de bonnes located in the uppermost part of buildings. These locations have very little to no insulation and actually tend to be hotter in the afternoon and evening than they are during the morning and midday. An hotel is really the best choice.

Jill, I've never done this myself, but what about one of those tours where you are driven around Paris in a vintage car? I've always thought that would be fun, especially at night: https://2cvparistour.com/.

Also, I vote hotel over apartment as well. Getting a good night's sleep is the thing that gives you energy for getting through a hot, busy day of sightseeing -- and that probably means A/C.

the 'penquino' type AC is also in my experience of having it half a dozen times over the years in Paris and in Italy not good. Usually they are musty -- We could not use one of them at all because it kicked off our allergies (we are only moderately allergic to mold, dust and pollen, but a musty penquin blowing its spores is unbearable. They are also not properly installed -- they don't work well unless there is actually a dedicated sealable port to put the exhaust hose in. In two places where we had them, the hose just hung out the window and the window let in hot air around it.

Get a hotel or aparthotel suite with real AC. And note that restaurants that do have AC will not be cold like Texas but will be 75 or 80 instead of 90. When we were there during the heat wave of 2003, we spent a lot of time at the Louvre. While the Louvre is not well air conditioned throughout, most of its spaces are relatively cool. The Pompidou was not very well air conditioned when we tried that and we actually went out to the big mall at la Defense one day to escape the heat and it felt as if it wasn't airconditoned at all. This was long ago so many things may have improved -- and of course you may not get a heat wave -- but even if it is just 80 in Paris -- not having AC will catch up with you.

to elaborate on what Tocard said above, I have found it best to assume that a Métro trip will almost always have steps to get to the train, steps at any Correspondance or change of lines and steps to leave the Métro. Maybe a short escalator at one end or the other, and often they only go one way - usually the wrong way. Even seen down with no up.

On the other hand there is usually a way to reach an RER train by lift or escalator, and with only a few steps. Be aware that many of the escalators are very skinny, certainly no room for side by side and often tight for larger folks.

My 75 year old mother & I were just in France in Nov/Dec and she too has limited mobility. To make it easy for her I rented an apartment that had an elevator. We had the Navigo-D cards, but I only used them at metro stations that had escalators and or elevators. RATP has a listing of stations that offer access for limited mobility persons. Used UBER or G7 Taxis when needed. We even took an UBER to the back side of Sacre-Coeur for her to enjoy the church & area, then I ordered an UBER to take us to our next location.

We walked at her pace, stopped at Cafes for breaks between sites, which she enjoyed just sitting at the heated patios and people watching. Again, went at her pace in the museums, rested on benches/chairs as needed.

The apartment company I used, family owned/managed, was Apartments du Louvre, https://www.apartmentsdulouvre.com, they have two buildings and both have elevators. We stayed at the Le Marais building in the So Chic apartment. The apartment actually had an HVAC system in both bedrooms & the living room, controlled separately, so AC & Heat.

Getting To & Around Paris for Disabled Visitors:

https://en.parisinfo.com/what-to-see-in-paris/visiting-paris-with-a-disability/getting-to-and-around-in-paris-for-disabled-visitors

https://en.parisinfo.com/what-to-see-in-paris/visiting-paris-with-a-disability/info/guides/transport-and-disability-getting-around-paris

I've never been to Paris in August so I can't comment on the heat but I second the recommendation for Hotel Residence Des Arts. I stayed there in 2019 with a friend and really appreciated the separate living room for relaxing. The location is perfect

We were in Paris in April 2018 when temperatures were into the 30C range. (Close to 90F) We were in an apartment one flight up that had excellent A/C. Fully legal etc and provided by ParisVacationApartments.com. In 2009 we spent a week in June in 35C temperatures. Luckily the hotel had recently been renovated and had cold A/C. Grand Hotel St Michel near the Pantheon.

Why not take a wheelchair with you rather than depend on what may or may not be available in museums etc? If you don't own one, pick up a used one online from FB, Craigslist or whatever. I've always been under the impression that airlines don't charge for such devices. Taking buses would be easier than the long flights of stairs in the metro. Many buses actually "kneel down" for wheelchair access.