We just landed in Domme for 3 days exploring Les Eleyzies (Fonte-de-Gaume) and walks between villages.
Being off season, I’m unsure what the options will be for cafes and restaurants that are open. I’m fine simple, fresh, and hopefully vegetarian. (LOL)
I find going to traiteurs works well. None seem to be in Domme.
We passed Sarlat on our way here. It looks super touristy but maybe I should look more closely there.
Thanks! I’d appreciate your quick thoughts!!!
kayreed,
Sarlat is the biggest town near Domme, so there will definitely be restaurants open now, just perhaps not as many as in the spring or summer. Closer to Domme, at the outskirts of La Roque Gageac is a nice place we had lunch, called Les Courtines. It had delicious food, especially the tartines (open-faced sandwiches). I believe it is open year-round as it offers rooms to stay in. We had a fancy celebration meal at Le Grand Bleu, near the train station in Sarlat, but that was pricy, although the food and service was superb! Google and Trip Advisor are your friends here.
BTW, Sarlat is touristy, especially in the summer, but it is so because it is a beautiful town. The yellow-tinged stone of the buildings is lovely. Have a wander on a Wed. or Sat. for the big markets. There are smaller ones other days in different locations. Find the statue of the goose. Eat something with truffles, some pate, something with walnuts or honey or mushrooms There is great food to be had in all of the Dordogne/Lot river valleys and environs! Plus beautiful drives and some of "Les Plus Beaux Villages de France".
Have fun!
kayreed,
I believe you are referring to Les Eyzies, not Les Eleyzies. One has to be really careful on spelling locations in France, especially if using Google maps or any GPS device for directions. Use the full name of a place also, as there are sometimes several locations with different "endings".
Thank you!!! Much appreciated.
The restaurant "LA TRAVERSE Chez Les Filles" in Domme. It's on the D46 road on the left as you exit Domme towards Gourdon.
In Gourdon, there's a vegetarian restaurant called "La Musardine." The problem is that it's not really an official restaurant, but a woman who prepares vegetarian meals at home. So you eat like you're in a restaurant, but in her dining room.
https://lamusardine.wordpress.com/
It's going to be difficult, but not impossible, to find vegetarian options in the Dordogne. Normally, you're not allowed to stay in the Dordogne for more than 3 days without eating duck and foie gras, otherwise you could be kicked out of the region.
I'll be around starting next Friday, but I won't be able to help you if you don't respect the region's strict rules. Lol
HaHa, Jo Lui! This discussion is making my mouth water. I guess I'll have to pull out the jar of honey we bought in Sarlat and finish it off with some yogurt.
The restaurant at the Esplanade hotel in Domme was one of our first great meals in France. It is pricey but was really wonderful years ago when we did it. I particularly remember their cheese course with so many options I had never seen and I had also never been presented with a cheese cart and didn't know how much I could ask for.
I glanced at their menu and they had one apparently vegetarian main dish --- this is a very meaty area of the country in terms of cuisine.
It was several years ago, but I did have a couple of excellent vegetarian meals in Sarlat. One was at Le Présidial, can’t recall the other. But yes, not the easiest area to be a vegetarian.
The current menu at the Presidial offers the following main course choice:
Crispy confit duck leg
Duck breast
Grilled pork shoulder
Pressed poultry
Beef steak
Tuna steak
Seasonal fish
Unless you're happy with just an appetizer and ice cream for dessert, it's going to be difficult to satisfy your vegetarian needs there.
But I found something for you. It's called Terre de Jor, in Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère. A couple, he's Swiss, she's Belgian, they opened this restaurant after a cycling trip to Nepal. This organic vegetarian restaurant offers a full menu, including starter, main course, dessert, and a drink, all for €18, which is cheaper than a single starter at the Presidial.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/54Szefv9u11DgmEB6
(They also offer B&Bs)
I think the locals might consider them some kind of alien. :)
We are finding that most restaurants in France have at least one vegetarian selection on the main course menu, so it is surprising to see one without. The one at Esplanade was a risotto dish.
In the Dordogne, with a population of over 400,000, there must be fewer than 20 restaurants offering special dishes for vegetarians.
As I said before, we're not in a vegetarian region.
It's like going to Italy but not liking pasta and pizza, or going to Asia but not liking rice.
If you can find dishes suitable for vegetarians, so much the better, but it's more often accidental than intentional.
A risotto (with mushrooms in a vegetarian version) is excellent, but it's an Italian dish.
In the Dordogne, we have duck, pork, and some river fish, we don't know how to cook other products, it's not because we don't want to, it's genetic, probably from thousands of years ago, when we were in the caves coming out to hunt all kinds of game. :)
JoLui, Haha!
Though Italian/Irish with no French in me, I think there may have been some migratory ancestors in my past who visited your neighborhood. Vive Les vallees du Lot et du Dordogne, et tous Les animaux qui habitent la!
Thank you all for your generosity of ideas and engagement with the topic. I looked into many of your suggestions. I think because it’s off season and we were visiting on a Sunday - Wednesday, the options were limited.
Even so, we ended up eating very well here in the Dordogne!!
On the first night, we ate out of our picnic larder - carrot salade, red cabbage salade, cheese, bread and fruit.
On our first full day we happened on the marche in Cenac. We got the beautiful local strawberries! At La Ferme de Quinte, a local producer grocery on the same square as the market, I picked up a jar of Veloute d’autumn, a chestnut- winter squash soup. Across the street at the Traituer, I got a green salad and spinach quiche! With a bottle of local red courtesy of Mm Lambert (we stayed at Chez Lambert @booking.com) we had a great dinner.
Today we toured Sarlat and found the delicious vegetarian-vegan restaurant Le Chevre et le Chou. Only wish I could post photos! A terrine of butternut, veloute de legumes, Gratin de potimaron au bleu d’avergne, riz Y lentilles, Tarte Paummes Noisettes.
Again, thank you all!
Sorry! I meant to mention that the soup is from a local producer - El Martine Amiguet. It is a chestnut farmer that wanted to make moer products. They have a whole line of chestnuts and soups. Delish. Just like home made. They have a store near here.
Hi Kay, sounds like a great trip! Where did you stay? Google says that Chez Lambert is closed! Thanks!
Desolee.
It’s Maison Lambert.
https://www.booking.com/Share-C5FX7i9
As others have said, Domme is very sleepy. After dark this time of year everything is closed. But I like eating mid day and buying at markets then coming back to the apartment to eat.
This location is steps from the Esplanade and very quiet.
I had to purchase my own hand soap and a sponge but not too steep a penalty.
