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Driving in France - my experience

I always travel by public transport, always.

However, this trip was with my son and his wife and he really wanted the freedom of a car and said he would do all the driving. Several days in Paris and then by train to Caen to pick up our rental car. We made it through the challenge of traveling on a “strike” day and thought we had overcome our transportation challenges.

It was at the rental counter at Caen that my son discovered his driver’s license was missing. Now my daughter-in-law and I were the only available drivers. What followed was 5 days of on the job training about driving in France. It was a bit of a rough start but by the end, I was almost confident that I could handle small cities and towns, toll roads, roundabouts , and ever changing speed limits with the best of them.

My final test came with our drive from Amboise to CDG airport to return the car. Now, before you all tell me we should have returned the car outside of Paris and taken the train in, let me explain that the only one way option allowed by our rental company required that the car could only be returned at the airport.

My daughter-in-law drove the first hour but didn’t want to get any closer to Paris. My son found a route that would take us around the worst of Central Paris Traffic and did a great job of navigating. We arrived safely at CDG only to get turned around in how to findrental car return. I felt captured in a rental car purgatory where I was trapped circling terminals and dodging parking forever. Finally, we found the right spot. It was such a relief to hand keys over!!! I was physically exhausted from the stress of driving in the Paris area.

Take aways:
1. Take the time to watch some You Tube videos about driving in France before you come. I had watched with my son and this really helped.
2. Don’t believe their estimates of how many people and luggage can fit in a vehicle. Our car was rated for 5, 3 was the maximum amount.
3. Pay a little bit extra for an automatic unless you always drive manual. One less thing to deal with while driving.
4. Expect a large deposit hold on your credit card during the rental.

We are off to London by Eurostar tomorrow.

Posted by
16049 posts
  1. Check to see everyone has their Driver's Licenses as well as passports!

My word! Thanks for the mid-trip report. Just getting to CDG in a taxi is a puzzle and I'm sure I would still be circling trying to find the rental car return!!

Have a wonderful time in London and on your last night in Paris!

(editing to add...I made the 1st # a 5 but it changes it to a 1 when I post!)

Posted by
1542 posts

Glad you got it figured out. We found driving in France very easy, but didn't drive in Paris. Our rental agency asked to see our International Driver's Permit.

Enjoy the rest of your travels!

Posted by
6564 posts

That sounds mentally exhausting, since you weren't expecting to do that. Did you and your daughter already have your IDPs?

Posted by
7983 posts

Glad it worked out for you and hope you didn’t get any grey hairs from the experience. Finding the rental car return at airports is (to me) always the most stressful part of renting a car. Over a number of trips Madrid’s airport was a pain due construction, return entrance changing, very small sign pointing in the right direction, etc. The last couple trips and I think I’ve got it down. I’ve only returned at CDG once and I don’t recall the ease of return.

Interestingly, I’ve never had a large deposit hold placed on the card. Usually it’s only a couple hundred dollars.

Posted by
1364 posts

We arrived safely at CDG only to get turned around in how to find rental car return. I felt captured in a rental car purgatory where I was trapped circling terminals and dodging parking forever.

Been there and done that, I can confirm it was the single worst car rental return experience of my life at CDG.

Never again.

Posted by
9588 posts

About the International Driving Permit:
My daughter-in-law had hers since she had thought she might be a secondary driver occasionally . I did not since I had no intention of driving at all. The rental car company did not care about IDP, they only wanted our regular drivers license.

Posted by
2475 posts

Carol,
Glad you made it! Yes, returning a car at CDG is not easy. We went around one time before getting in the right lane for return. We have picked up a car more than once at CDG, and navigating the airport isn't fun, but if you can be patient and not in a hurry, you can do it without too much anxiety. I find that many airports make it difficult to get to the car rental return, and train station returns in France are no fun either. (I'm looking at you Marseille and Bordeaux!)

I don't understand the large deposit hold on your CC, having never encountered that. Perhaps because of the last minute driver change? And yes, car sizes/passenger and luggage numbers are way off. Back in 1988 we looked at a "4 person convertible" on line. That turned out to be a Deux Chevaux (CV2). Hah! We did know better than to rent that one.
Congrats on your successful drive!

Posted by
2055 posts

Did you need to take out a second mortgage to pay the French Autoroute tolls? :o)

The French superhighway system is the best I've ever experienced, but boy howdy it's expensive.

Posted by
172 posts

—Driving in Paris is a challenge no matter what, right up there with LA at rush hour, Naples any time, Japan any time. You don’t have to be American to be frustrated.

—Avoiding manual trans…..geez that makes me feel out of touch. I love driving a stick.

— Rated capacity and real capacity agree with that too

—The whole rental car experience is frustrating and costly compared to the USA.

—watching you tube for “training”? Never would have considered it.

—-The whole idea of trepidation over foreign driving? Never have given it a thought

—This was the best short travel story I’ve seen here in awhile.

Posted by
2602 posts

We will always remember that drive back to CDG from the Loire Valley and taking the peripherique where there were so many lanes (8?) going in one direction, people driving a hundred miles an hour or so it seemed and me trying to navigate when I needed glasses to read but not for distance. So I was trying to read the map and look for the road signs at the same time. This was before cell phones and gps. By the time we found what we thought was the exit, we had sped past it. Luckily we knew a little of the geography of France and that heading towards Lille would be a safe bet. We made it in one piece to CDG thankfully. We still laugh about it to this day.

Posted by
541 posts

I've lived in France for over a decade. I had to pass both the theoretical and practical tests (in French) to get my French driver's license, again over a decade ago.

I've driven to practically every corner of l'Hexagone on all types of roads, and I'm always impressed by people complaining about the cost of tolls in France.

Yes, toll roads cost money. Yes, they almost always save time. It's up to the driver to determine if the value of the time saved is worth the cost of the tolls.

The answer, in my opinion, is almost always, "Yes."

But,

Did you need to take out a second mortgage to pay the French Autoroute
tolls?

Seriously?

After spending probably over a thousand dollars to fly to France, several hundred or over a thousand in hotel costs, several hundred to over a thousand in restaurant costs, one has to wonder,

Did you need to take out a second mortgage to pay the French Autoroute
tolls?

The question boggles.

Posted by
2475 posts

When we drive (our usual mode of transporation in France), we prefer to take the D roads (not toll roads) and plan for the extra time it may take. As a matter of fact, we like the "delays" we encounter by stopping at an interesting town or site. We sort of meander. So the tolls aren't an issue. However, when we want to get somewhere fast, we accept the toll costs as part of the time saving expense. In the big picture of a trip to France we allow for tolls as a small part of our trip cost.