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Dordogne visit/June 2023/Three generations/Seven people

There will be five adults and two children (9 and 12) staying in a gite at La Roque Gageac from June 8 to 18 next year. We will have two cars so we are not stuck with a large van-type car on small village streets. The children and their parent arrive late the 9th and leave the 18th, so they will have from the 10th through the 17th to see all the Dordogne region has to offer. (They arrive at and leave from the Bordeaux airport). Four of us adults have more flexibility with our travels, and will be in France for about two weeks before this stay, and a few days after.

Okay, scene set. My questions are about:
Visiting the prehistoric caves. I am thinking Lascaux reproduction and Font de Gaume. With our group, how much time should we allocate for these two visits? I realize they would be on different days, but is it possible to do or see something else of interest the same day we visit a cave? Or will each one take up most of the day?

Kayaking/canoeing on the river. Both kids have kayaked on their own on lakes. Are these activities usually half-day, and do the companies pick you up and return you to your starting place/car? Are some departure/landing places preferred over others, for sights to see, lovely scenery, etc.?

We want to show the kids castles, suits of armor, etc., with some history of the region, the Hundred Years War, and context of the area. (I love the story of Eleanor of Aquitaine.) Which of the many castles have the most to see for the young ones? (And don't require a long uphill walk for us grandparents with wonky knees.)

Aren't there some trogloditic caves in the area that are more recently inhabited? If so, are they accessible? Are they near anything else we might want to see?

Are there any farms which allow visits, especially where geese are raised (we are not anti-fois gras. Well, all but one of us, who won't be visiting a farm.)

We have a house with a pool and plan on returning there most evenings for dinner, but will have some meals out. We also will do some shopping at local markets for our food supplies, and we will ask our hosts for recommendations on markets. I guess I am most interested in planning our days of activities without overdoing it and without backtracking. A walk-around in Sarlat would be fun, and a visit to Les Jardins de Marqueyssac.) Also, any portrayal of medieval battles, tournaments, etc.

Any and all suggestions will be considered, and I will buy a new Michelin regional map (the yellow one) for that area to plan our day trips, but personal experience beats all the guidebooks. (The Michelin green guide will be our go-to, I think). Please feel free to dispense any of your wisdom and experience to me. This is a delayed trip from 2021 (50th anniversary year for us), and will now incorporate an 80th birthday celebration for 2023. Grandparents' present to ourselves and the family.

Thanks in advance. Vive la France!

Posted by
28074 posts

Sarlat has two weekly markets. The Wednesday-morning market is really large; the Saturday market (food only in the AM, I think) is humongous. It's worth thinking about what day you want to visit Sarlat--i.e., whether you want to enjoy a market or avoid market days. I thought the Wednesday market was very interesting even though I hit an extremely rainy day. However, the weather definitely reduced the number of visitors, so I have no clue what kind of crush you'd run into on a more-typical market day. Are you OK with being part of a festive mob scene and (I'm guessing, because I took the bus) perhaps having a longer walk from your car because of so much competition for parking?

Posted by
1335 posts

I think we will do our shopping at other, smaller markets, and see Sarlat on a non-market day. It is such a lovely, golden town and my goal is to enjoy its beauty and share it with the family. Hopefully our gite owners (who live close by) will give us good advice regarding the markets and buying our food. Thank you for the heads up. We will avoid Sarlat on market days. Is Sarlat close enough to Font de Gaum? or Lascaux IV to visit after a morning at one of the caves?

Posted by
8552 posts

the way canoeing on the Dordogne works (and do the Dordogne not the Vezere which is pretty boring -- the Dordogne upriver from Le Roque Gageac is incredibly picturesque). The way it works is that you park at the site -- we just picked one randomly below Le Roque-- and they drive you and your life jackets and the boats up to the start point. You choose depending on how long you want to be on the river. The first time we did this, we choose a half day paddle, and stopped for lunch at a riverside cafe. They put you in with your canoe or kayak and you paddle back down to the place you left your car, so there is no issue of timing and pick up.

With a canoe for two you can also rent a plastic barrel for your lunch or purse or camera to protect it from the water and any potential capsize.

Be sure to make Font du Gaume reservations as early as you can because they have very limited slots each day. It is the real deal and worth the effort. Consider adding Rofignac where they take you underground in a train deep into the mountain to see the art. It is not as impressive as Lascaux or Font du Gaum but still well worth seeing and it is fun. We have never had a problem just getting tickets at Lascaux on the day. Near Font du Gaum is the museum that explores with artifacts and video the cro magnon life of the times of the caves. Excellent.

Posted by
4 posts

It is possible to visit Font de Gaume and Lascaux in one day. My daughter and I accomplished this in October. Our tour at Font de Gaume was at 11:10am followed by a 3:50pm tour at Lascaux IV. The drive between is about 30 minutes. We had time to stop for lunch in Saint Leon-sur-Vezere on the way. I would recommend Le Dejeuner sur L'Herbe by the river.

As mentioned by earlier poster, check early and often for online tickets to Font de Gaume (use the French language website). The day we visited, there was only one English language tour and our group was small, about a dozen persons.

Also, we really enjoyed the Saturday market in Sarlat. Great place to buy regional specialties for dinner at the Airbnb.

Posted by
1117 posts

I'll tell you how I passed my days, so you can judge what is near what, and what can be done in a day.

BEYNAC. I was based in Beynac, with a car. Beynac is a nice spot and the chateau is worth a visit for the view alone. Lots of armor and weapons.

SARLAT / CANOEING. An earlier poster said the company would pick you up from the pullout point and drive you up to the starting point. My experience was different. I went with Canoe Carsac (https://canoe-carsac.com/) based out of Carsac, a few miles upriver. I drove to their base in Carsac, canoed down the river for about 4 hours, pulled out at Beynac, and their van met me there to pick me and the canoe up and take us back to the base to get my car. Before canoeing, though, I went to Sarlat on a market day to pick up some local sausage and strawberries and something to drink, to make up a picnic for the canoe trip. I stopped on a sandbar beneath the Chateau de Montfort for lunch, and pulled out again at La Roque Gageac for some window shopping. By the time I made it to Beynac it was about 4:00 pm and I was ready for a rest.

PREHISTORIC. I spent a great day combining a few sites. Drove to Montignac to visit the local TI to get tickets for Lascaux, then a short drive to Lascaux II. From there a drive along the Vezère river to see La Roque St Cristophe caves (https://www.roque-st-christophe.com/) and the National Museum of Prehistory in Les Ezyzies (I didn't go to Font-de-Gaume, but if you wanted to add that, or do it instead of Lascaux, its right next to Les Eyzies). Personally I preferred La Roque St Cristophe to Lascaux, but they are different and both worth seeing. La Roque St Cristophe was inhabited during the Viking era, as a place to stay safe from raiders.

WINE DRIVE. Third day was a drive to Bergerac to visit some wineries. Another attraction I would have like to see is a goose farm, but we couldn't fit that in. I hope you like goose, duck and their livers, because they're everywhere in the Dordogne region.

I loved the Dordogne, and hope you do too.

Posted by
370 posts

We loved the Dordogne, visited last June. We saw Lascaux IV and Font de Gaume (not on the same day, but it would definitely be possible to do so, as others have said) Definitely get tickets in advance for Font de Gaume. They only let a very limited amount of people in the cave at one time. We couldn't get an English speaking slot so went with the French. The group was me, my husband, and my two teenaged daughters and two other couples. One of the other couples were German speaking Swiss. The other couple was French. They told the guide they speak English and the Swiss couple said they would also prefer English, so the guide spoke mostly English! Not saying you'd get this lucky, but we were very happy with this turn of events. It is a truly wonderful cave.

We stayed in Sarlat in a medieval house and enjoyed the Saturday market very much. My daughters enjoyed the shopping very much!

We also toured Beynac castle. Wonderful and the views from the castle were breathtaking.

Posted by
1335 posts

Wow! All the information you have all provided is just what I was hoping for. Now I can start to sketch out our activities. Thank you all so much for the suggestions. Even though June is a good while away, I am getting really excited! Merci beaucoup!

Posted by
481 posts

Look at Le Roque St. Christophe https://www.roque-st-christophe.com/en/. A cliffside cave dwelling with lots of cool stuff good for kids and we enjoyed it too (60s). There is a cool little church with some frescoes with pilgrims on the way to Santiago. Also a good little cafe. Definitely see some "real" cave art, lots of choices.

Posted by
1117 posts

If you didn't watch The Amazing Race last night, try to find it on demand. The episode was focussed on the Dordogne.