Dordogne Region

We visited this amazing region on the RS Loire to the south of France Tour. The canoe trip on the Dordogne River, Cénac to Beynac was the highlight of our tour. Incredible views of medival castles and villages along the way.

We loved Sarlat! RS calls it "the quintessential market town!" So true! We based ourselves there 3 nights for day trips. We were fortunate to be in town for the famous Saturday Market. We picked up picnic food and enjoyed sitting on the steps near the church. We especially enjoyed this pedestrian-friendly town and wonderful cuisine.

Not familiar with transportation, but perhaps someone will chime in with more information!

There are normally a few direct trains per day between Bordeaux and Sarlat, but they're currently interrupted with a bus connection or multiple connections due to construction on the rail line. If you're traveling in the fall, the work may be finished, but train schedules won't be published far ahead.

Sounds like renting a car in Bordeaux is doable and a good idea.

I'm currently traveling in the area of the Dordogne and the Lot without a car. It's doable, but unless he or she can afford to hire a private driver, a car-less person has to select destinations from the universe of places with train or bus service. A car will make your life much easier.

You can get to Sarlat by bus (since the train, as mentioned, is not currently an option), but getting from there to smaller towns is tricky. The bus from Bergerac passes Beynac et Cazenac. I had a very nice view. But I don't know whether there is a stop there. The bus is a rail replacement and seems to stop only in places the trains normally go--i.e., at train stations. Even if the remaining distance is walkable (assuming a day-trip when you're not burdened by luggage), there is safety to consider. We're talking narrow rural roads with narrow or non-existent shoulders. High-season traffic must be very heavy.

Sarlat is lovely. It would make a good base, but if you have a car anyway, you might save a bit of money by staying in one of the towns off the public-transportation grid. Or not. Those places were not an option for me, so I didn't check rates.

Sarlat's big market is in Saturday. I imagine that does interesting things to the Friday- and Saturday-night rates. I day-tripped in on Wednesday, which is the secondary market day. The Wednesday market was very nice even though the weather was predicted to be, and was, dreadfully rainy.

My experience is proof that weather in the Dordogne can be flaky. I'd have a back-up plan in case the weather wasn't conducive to canoeing.

Was in Sarlat a couple of weeks ago. It's a pretty difficult area to travel without your own transportation but very nice. Sarlat is a good home base. Visit Lascaux Caves and also take time to wander Beynac.

I think a car is worth it for a few days. It will expand your possibilities. Pick up in Bordeaux, drop off in Sarlat?

If you are really dead set against, perhaps the tour company will rent you bicycles for this 3 day period.

All above are reasonable suggestions. But don't assume that the only way to avoid the current limited train+bus situation between Bordeaux and Sarlat is to rent a car in Bordeaux. When we were there last month we took a direct train from Bordeaux as far as Perigueux which my spouse wanted to see anyway, rented a car there for a very relaxed drive into Sarlat and around the Dordogne area for 5 days. Then we continued to Cahors where we dropped the car and continued the rest of our travel to more populated, better served areas, by train. I'm sure there are a multitude of variations on that theme depending on exactly where you want to go. The Perigord area is apparently chock full of chateaux and cute little formerly fortified towns called bastides. My spouse pointed out to me that we were able to see 5 of the "10 cutest villages in France" (or something like that) thanks to her clever itinerary planning into and out of the Dordogne. Best wishes.

Any recommendations on a car company in Bordeaux? Do you need a special drivers license?