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Dordogne or Provence in November

Hello again
My husband and I are spending about 3 months in France. Initially we wanted to stay in one place but after replies on the forum here we have decided to move about a bit. Im happy with our decision except for the last 3 weeks as it will be in November.

I have booked in Beynac et Cazenac for this 3 weeks but upon further research I am worried it is too long. We will have a car and so will do lots of day trips but also enjoy settling into a place. We also enjoy walking. I am aware the time of year means much will be closed so I am now wondering if we should rethink this part of our trip. We have timed being south hoping it will be warmer.

So...my question is would we be better in Provence or Dordogne in November? And should we perhaps split the time between the two. Would there be enough to do? Mind you we don't need to be busy every day as we have the gift of time.

Posted by
3050 posts

Any French person with three months to spend on vacation from September to November would start in the Dordogne and end in Provence. For many logical reasons: the weather, the crowds, the vibe, the prices.

But if you've already booked your accommodations... it's too late; at least you can hope that, due to climate change, the weather won't be too bad in the Dordogne in November. Last year, there were a few sunny days in November when we ate lunch outside, but also a few cold mornings with frost.

Three weeks in Beynac-et-Cazenac in November is probably a bit too much.

Outside the tourist season, many shops are closed, you'll basically find a bakery and a mini-market, not much else. The morning markets are open as they do in summer, but obviously, there are no more summer products (although there's still foie gras!).

There are less than 500 inhabitants in Beynac-et-Cazenac (many of them retirees). In all these villages in this very rural region, the non-retirees work during the day and go back home for dinner and watch TV.

In November, there are no more activities for passing tourists, and no more activities like kayaking.

But maybe that's what you're looking for...

Alternatively, you could stay in a big city and explore the surrounding area from there. For example, from Brive-la-Gaillarde or Perigueux.

There are also plenty of other options between Provence and the Dordogne.

Toulouse, the Pink City (and France's fourth-largest city), can be an excellent base for exploring the region.
From Toulouse, you're no more than a 2.5-hour drive from many places. The Dordogne, the Pyrenees, the Tarn Gorges, the Atlantic coast with Bordeaux, the Mediterranean coast with Collioure, Montpellier, Perpignan, etc.
Carcassonne, Albi, the Canal du Midi can be reached in 1 hour...

It's up to you.

https://www.toulouse-tourisme.com/en/

Posted by
1180 posts

I looked over your prior posts to see if I could figure out where you were going during the rest of your trip (which is none of my business, of course). It's difficult to answer your question because if this is the only time you can go to Dordogne, then you should go. But not at the expense of Provence. See what I mean? If I had to choose which of these two regions to (re)visit in September (or probably even October), I would choose Dordogne, hands down. But if my only chance to visit Dordogne was in November, I would probably choose Provence. 90% for the weather.
If I were in your shoes, I would leave the last three weeks of the trip open for now. You won't have any trouble getting a place in Dordogne if you decide to go there. You may decide you to go back to one of your earlier destinations.

Posted by
2331 posts

I love the Dordogne. That being said, I can't imagine spending 3 weeks there in November....both for the weather and for the lack of things to do, as JoLui points out. The popular caves to visit should be open (Lascaux IV for instance), plus some chateaux, but I would only stay there about 4 days, then head to Provence. There are a number of nice villages and towns to stay in, the weather should be warmer and dryer, and daytime explorations abound. From the coast (e.g. Bandol) to the Mt. Ventoux area near Aix, to St. Remy and Arles, over to the Luberon area and down to the Riviera (Nice, Villefranche, etc.) you could find some very pleasant places to stay for 2-3 weeks. There are the Basse Alpes as well. (Provence covers over 12,000 sq. miles, with lots of variety.)
I hope you aren't locked in to 3 weeks at Beynac et Cazenac. JoLui is correct about the small size and population. Try to check out from the library, or buy Rick's book on Provence. It isn't comprehensive at all, but is a good starting point.
Best of luck!

Posted by
9 posts

Thank you so much for all this. It's so generous of you to give the time to my decisions.

Luckily although accommodation is booked I can cancel and rethink. I take the point that we could leave it open and decide closer to the time...like the old days of travel. I get worried now with so many travelling that it is risky. But not at that time of year perhaps.

G3rryCee...love that you showed such interest. We are spending time in September in Paris, then Burgundy , then Alsace region , then down to the Tarn by early November. We decided to be south to chase slightly better weather.

I agree after reading your thoughts that being in Beynac for 3 weeks is too long. Thank you JoLui for detailing. I am now thinking we will divide the time between there and Provence. Perhaps 1 week in Beynac or maybe a bit less to see caves and Jardin de Marqueyssac which I think will be open and chateaux thank you Judy and then 2 weeks in Provence, basing ourselves where we can explore with day trips and walks. Judy I will have a look at those places you have suggested. Have heard much about St Remy.

Very grateful for your guidance. Lets face it, its all going to be interesting and wonderful but we do need things to do to make the most of this opportunity. Any other thoughts welcome and agin thank you.