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Dordogne, including east Dordogne and Lot--mid September

We have three full days in Dordogne (and will spend the previous day in Bergerac). We are staying in La Roque Gageac and will have a rental car. We won't be seeing the cave paintings.

For people that went to Les Jardins de Marqueyssac, how long did you spend?

We will be going to Sarlat on a Saturday(market day). About how long should we anticipate spending there? We'd also like to do the RS driving tour that day as well as see the Beynac chateau.

We plan to eat in La Roque Gageac the first night, Domme the next and looking for recommendations for another night.

What were favorite towns to visit in Dordogne and Lot and how long did you spend? Did any towns disappoint? Is parking difficult in any of the towns?

Thank you

Posted by
32 posts

It’s been awhile since we’ve been to that beautiful area. We did those gardens, which are unique, and we just wondered around amazed.

One other thing you might check out in that area is Josephine Baker’s chateau. Very interesting tour and a very interesting woman.

Canoeing on the Dordogne is a peaceful way to spend an afternoon.

Posted by
1194 posts

Hello from Wisconsin,

Up stream along the Lot R. is a smaller river, the Cele River. The road might be too narrow for buses and that is just the way I like roads. The Dordogne is wide and has all those castles. The Lot is a joy. As the rivers diminish in size it creates an intimacy that I really enjoy. The Cele is a very personal event.

You say, no caves. Cabrerets has Pech Merle. A small place with a great cave and most excellent paintings. The cave alone is worth a visit.

We didn’t get to do the market in Sarlat but we did the town after dark and it was amazing. Lots going on; music, vendors, performers and lots of people.
Definitely do the canoeing. We also loved visiting a geese farm and learn how the Foie Grass is produce.
Enjoy every minute! We’re also going to be there in September... again and I can’t wait.

Posted by
1896 posts

I think your list is great. LaRoque Gageac is very nice village on the river. Domme is another nice little village to walk. Beynac is a must see. Unless you have to be in Bergerac I would add a night in LaRoque instead. Bergerac is a bigger city that didn't really offer much for me.

I found this place very interesting to visit. https://la-madeleine-perigord.com/ and it is only a 40 minute drive.

Posted by
83 posts

We wanted to eat at La Belle Etoile in la Roque Gageac, but couldn't get in because it was booked solid a week ahead. It was very strongly recommended by various sources we consulted (2017, though).
Parking in Sarlat could be tricky as much of the town is not well-suited to cars. Google Maps tried to send us down a "rue" that is actually a staircase.
If you like gardens, I can recommend le jardin d'Eyrignac (NE of Sarlat).
Even if you don't want to visit caves, the museum at Les Eyzies is outstanding. There are many châteaux you could visit - I don't know how to decide which are most interesting. We enjoyed the château de Losse but there's not much that really distinguishes it from others (gorgeous setting, interesting history ... but that's true for most of Dordogne!)

Posted by
922 posts

Just returned 2 months ago from our Dordogne trip…..we stayed in Sarlat and Beynac……LOVED Sarlat and the market as there was so much to see and sample…..I would strongly suggest you enjoy the brunch at Maison Lissajoux……we ate there every morning that we were in Sarlat because it was just that good……we stayed at La Lanterne in Sarlat right by the beautiful old church and had to find a parking place on the outer circle of the old town Sarlat……just read the meters and see when you can best buy a ticket that will enable you to keep your spot all night….we were told that during certain months there is either no charge or a lesser one so read the meter about that……we drove over to Domme and shopped around and took in the gorgeous view of the valley over the wall around the town. We were not interested in cave paintings either…..we ate at La Roque Gageac AT LA BELLE ETOILE and enjoyed the view of the river during our meal. The canoe trip with Canoe Loisirs from Vitrac to Beynac was delightful…..but I had to give them an average review on Trip Advisor after having a bad fall on the banks of the Dordogne as we were exiting our canoe……you can go to Trip Advisor if you want to read it……basically the canoe guide could have given better directions and saved me a bad fall getting out at the wrong arch…….canoe to the 5th arch and don’t pull up to the banks until you see the snack bar on the left bank….how easy is that? I was injured so we did not attempt the incredibly steep climb up to Beynac castle……tho it looked beautiful….there we stayed at La Source in the back cottage…..unreal views! La Jardins de Marqueyssac and the Gardens of Eyrignac were both so worth the visits! Do not miss these…………we enjoyed Monpazier and Atlier Charmont……American-owned shop and the owner gave us directions to a fun brocante the next day…..so glad we saw her and her shop. The brocante that Sunday afternoon was FUN! I filed a review so you might enjoy reading it un TRIP REPORTS…….have fun!

Posted by
6597 posts

Thanks for all the great information. Further input is welcome. We don't really plan to "see" Bergerac. We are starting the day in Bordeaux and will stop in St. Emilion and then a winery and Chateau de Monbazillac. That's a pretty full day so we have an inn close to the chateau and will head directly to Sarlat in the morning. We plan to hit Monbazillac at about 5pm and linger a while, hence a BnB close by.

We are staying at Hotel la Belle Etoile in La Roque Gageac for three nights, and eating dinner there the first night and breakfast at least the first day. I'm not sure where we are eating in Domme, we are considering Belvedere Cafe.

La Madeleine does look interesting. Kind of like Mesa Verde but cooler!

I can certainly see why canoeing the river would be lovely. We own canoes and have done so much canoeing over the years that we prioritized, the driving routes.

@Wayner, Hello from Minnesota! We've spent a lot of time over the years in Wisconsin! I sent you a personal message, and I'm thinking perhaps your email has changed or you haven't seen it. In an old post you mention Napoleon Cafe in Bordeaux. If you have a moment can you see if it's still open and perhaps send a link? I'm only seeing Cafe Napoleon 3 in Bordeaux.

Posted by
1896 posts

Nice choice with the Chateau de Monbazillac. It is a nice chateau to see and it is set in an idyllic area. Stroll around the grounds of the chateau. Watch your head when touring the chateau some of the doorways were not made for average height. Trust me! LOL.

Posted by
27 posts

Josephine Baker's Chateau des Milandes is a must see. We have been there three times and always find it - and her story - fascinating.