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Dordogne - Help!

Hello travelers, can you please advise me on the best way to get to the Dordogne Region (Sarlat) France?
We will be flying into Paris and would like to spend 3 nights in the Dordogne region. My questions are:
1. Should we drive are take the train from Paris to Sarlat?
2. Is It better to have a car when in the region?

On Rick's book recommendations we will be taking the 14 hour canoe trip, the cave tour, and possibly go to St.- Emililion.

I'm getting very confused as to whether or not to drive from Paris or take the train from Paris to Brive then rent a car and also where to stay??? I was able to plan our stay in Paris and Munich with no problem but I am like a duck out of water in this region. Any suggestions will be gratefully appreciated.
Thank you,
AMO

Posted by
16893 posts

I don't know exactly what tours you're referring to around Sarlat. A car is advised for the region, although you don't need it for most canoe rentals, which have vans to shuttle you at least one leg of the way. Many people would take a 4-hour direct from Paris to Brive and pick up the car there, to have less total driving time and none in the big city. That's probably key to the decision - how much do you like to drive? Driving's not completely free, even if your car rental price is the same; www.viamichelin.com will calculate gas and possible road tolls. Train tickets are cheaper if booked ahead.

Posted by
3150 posts

Is that the 14 mile canoe trip? I can't imagine a 14 hour trip...

I would definitely recommend a car to visit the sights in the Sarlat area. Though a 6 hour drive, it's the fastest way to get there. My friend and I stayed in a great Gite/B&B just outside the city called La Colline de Pechauriol. Convenient, quiet and away from the tourist blight. British owners provide a lot of helpful info on tourist sights and restaurants as well as a welcoming glass of wine in the private outside garden. A great restaurant - truly local and rustic - is La Vielle Grange a few kms from the B&B on the D407.

The Font de Gaume cave was a great experience. Being there a few years back in late October, we hadn't made reservations and were able to book the English speaking tour. I understand that because the number of daily visitors is now reduced that tickets are dear so make sure you reserve your spot well in advance. We also enjoyed the pre-history museum in Les Eyzies.

Posted by
189 posts

I just drove from just south of Sarlat to Normandy/Omaha Beach and it was a long drive. I think it was about 8 hours, Paris would be a shorter drive. Not bad but it consumed the better part of a day. Just look at the viamichelin drive time/cost vs train schedule/time/cost and see which is the best. We were there a month and travel very heavy so struggling with bags on a train would not be for us.

But when you get to Sarlat and surrounding area you definitely need a car to appreciate the beauty of the area. You will enjoy the canoe trips going past La Roque and Beynac and driving thru them in a car. If you are there on Sunday morning the market in Saint Cyprien is our favorite. The Sarlat market is huge and an experience.

Posted by
37 posts

Thank you everyone! Took your advice and we have decided to rent a car and kick back and enjoy the ride. We will plan a stop for lunch along the way. I'm traveling with 3 people that love to drive. Yes, it is a 14 mile trip from Carsac to Beynac with Copeyre Canoe (RS, page 505) thank you. Thank you for the sleeping recommendations. Any other "must do's" will be appreciated. If anyone needs suggestions on Italy or Barcelona let me know , I just got back from there. Happy Travels and many thanks.
AMO
Palm Beach, FL

Posted by
6431 posts

We liked Le Petit Versailles in Beynac, with friendly hosts, views of castles across the river, a short walk to several restaurants, easy drive to Sarlat, easier to reach other Dordogne places without having to get out of and back into Sarlat.

Sights we enjoyed: Castles at Beynac and Castelnaud, walled town of Domme, vertical town of LaRoque-Gageac, caves at Lascaux II and Font-de-Gaume, market days in Sarlat (Wed and Sat I believe), prehistoric museum at Les Eyzies. Not so much: Cahors and Rocamadour. Wished we'd seen: cave at Peche-Merle, boat ride on the Dordogne.

Gotta have a car in that area. Driving down there on the A20 is fun too. Train to Brive would probably work well but I'd guess cost more for your group than that day's car rental plus gas and tolls. Rent the car at Orly, or maybe Versailles, somewhere south of the big city. Or at CDG if you're going straight there without stopping in Paris. Bourges is a nice midpoint stopping place if you want.

Posted by
37 posts

I second the stay at Le Petite Versailles. We also loved this B & B and Beynac. Its a very pretty spot, and easy to get around walking. When we drove to Sarlat, we were glad we weren't based there. It is a small city, while Beynac is a small, cute town.

Posted by
108 posts

There is also a flight from Paris to Brive on HOP air which is part of Air France. You could then get a car at the Brive airport.

Posted by
1825 posts

We took the TGV from Paris to Bordeaux and rented a car there. It is a short drive to St. Emilion and only another hour to the Dordogne. You really want a car in the area and I liked staying in a smaller town rather than Sarlat. Take a GPS.

Posted by
37 posts

Thank you everyone. We are going to book everything today. I will let you know how it works out.
Happy travels,
AMO

Posted by
1189 posts

Hi fromWisconsin,
The Dordogne is a fine place to tour, it is a broad river with wide roads and tour busses. For a long time the line between English and French controled regions during the Hundred Years War. So there are many castles. I would suggest you take a tributary of the Dordogne, the Lot River and see if you like its scale and tourism density. If you do, then continue on to the Cele River. Even more intimate.

We stayed a week in Marcilac sur Cele or something like that and did not run out of things to see. Plus there is a great prehistoric painted cave along the Cele open to tourists. Not a replica, the real thing and well worth your time if you are at all into that type of thing.
wayne iNWI