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Dordogne and where else?

Hi. Husband and I planning trip to France next year either in April or May. We want to spend some time in the Dordogne region but will also have a couple of weeks to see other areas. We have been to Paris, Normandy, and Colmar area already. Looking for suggestions on what else to see and do around that area. We are also willing to travel to further out, planning on having a rental car. We love to walk/hike, love history, visiting little picturesque villages and just hanging out! Also looking for suggestions as to what city to fly into and then which city to fly out of (coming from SFO) and would prefer to not back track to same city to get home.

Thanks in advance!
Karen

Posted by
27138 posts

With the caution that I haven't been to that part of France in late May or early June (my first thought is always about potential weather issues), here are places I found interesting in 2019:

The French Basque Country: I liked Bayonne and St-Jean-de-Luz better than Biarritz but confess it was raining cats and dogs on the day I visited the latter. I didn't have time for any of the mountain villages, but Rick has some thoughts on them. I think they are covered in the book on Spain rather than in the guide to France.

The Spanish Basque Country: More interesting than the French, I think. Lots of options there, but I'm assuming you want to stay on the French side of the border since your time is somewhat limited. If not, ask and we will give you some ideas.

Dordogne/Lot: Most people travel here with a car and see a lot of the lovely small villages. I was stuck with bus/train transportation so spent more of my time in several of the good-sized towns. Allow me to mention that they are worth time, too. Perigueux, Cahors and Figeac were my favorites. I also liked Bergerac and Brive-la-Gaillarde. My visit to Rocambour was very disappointing. Transportation (bus followed by a long walk along a shoulderless highway) took longer than expected so I didn't have time to see the upper part of town where the religious buildings are located. The lower level is nothing but tourist shops and cafes. Historic the buildings may be, but if you don't allow time to see the upper level, I suggest skipping Rocambour.

Bordeaux is a handsome city with a nice historic center. Not the most distinctive architecture in the country. There are some worthwhile museums. The Centre du Vin gets very mixed reviews.

St-Emilion is a wine town often treated as a side-trip from Bordeaux. I dislike wine and prefer less touristy towns, but I quite liked St-Emilion. The vast majority of the tourists stayed down in the lower part of town. I enjoyed the untrafficked streets elsewhere. Do be careful if it's raining the day of your visit. There are cobblestones (slippery when wet!) and steep streets--a recipe for a bad fall.

Moving northward and back to the east, I can recommend Limoges, a city known for decorative arts (museums hold both porcelain and enamels) that has a very nice historic district. Very nearby is the Oradour-sur-Glane, site of a Nazi atrocity. There's an excellent memorial/museum (worth as much as two hours, I'd say) as well as the remains of the destroyed town.

Farther north is Poitiers, another place with lovely historic architecture. In the case of Poitiers there are also some very early churches. Very nice city not often visited by foreigners.

On the coast roughly west of Poitiers is the popular beach city of La Rochelle, which seems to be popular with domestic tourists. Enjoyable and a good base for the Ile de Re, which (conveniently) is accessible by bridge. I took a city bus so I don't know anything about tolls or private-car limitations on that bridge. Between Bordeaux and La Rochelle is Saintes, picturesque and worth a visit.

North of La Rochelle is Nantes, a large city formerly part of Brittany. Few foreign tourists make their way there but I enjoyed it. It's known for the Machines de l'Iles but I didn't have time for them.

Beyond Nantes there are more nice Breton cities and towns, including Vannes and Quimper. Be aware that Brittany can be quite overcast and rainy even in the summer.

Posted by
6113 posts

You could head from the Dordogne to the villages of the Bordeaux wine region then head over to the island of Oleron for lovely walks, pretty villages, local oysters and see some interesting places on the mainland such as the historical village of Hiers-Broulage and Rochefort. The weather is usually much better here than the Dordogne at that time of year.

Further up the coast, La Rochelle is a great base for boat trips, seeing forts, great food markets and a world class aquarium.

Posted by
2962 posts

Brive-Souillac Airport (BVE) is closest to the Dordogne Valley but I don’t suggest renting a car the day of arrival after taking an overnight flight from the US, especially since the Dordogne is about an hours drive. I would take a taxi to a hotel near the airport and rent a car in the morning.
From the Dordogne Valley I would drive to Provence and explore there before moving on to the riviera where you can fly home from.

Posted by
173 posts

Thanks so much for each of you that responded! I really appreciate it and am now looking forward to planning this trip.
Keep on traveling.
Karen

Posted by
6905 posts

There are hardly any flights to Brive; the nearest practical airports are Bordeaux and Toulouse. In both case, you would need to connect (most likely in Paris). It would make a lot of sense to start the trip in either city (they're both good places to spend 1-2 days), then rent a car to start exploring!

Posted by
173 posts

Thanks for the great replies. Looks like there is quite a bit of rain in Dordogne region and elsewhere in May. Would you recommend pushing trip back a bit to end of May and first 2 weeks of June? Will hotel prices be much higher then? Crowds?
thx

Posted by
6905 posts

What makes you say that about rain? April can indeed be wet in SW France, but by May it typically gets much better. It is impossible to predict what it will be like in May 2022 anyway, so just go whenever it is convenient for you! To answer your question, end May/early June crowds should not be much larger than early May crowds (except for a few days around 26th May because of a public holiday in France).

Posted by
27138 posts

I've experienced three gully-washer days of rain in southern France: May 6, 2107, north of Nice; May 24, 2019, in Pau (but I left town after a couple of hours, so that may not have lasted all day); and June 5, 2019, in Sarlat-la-Caneda. In general, western France and the north coast seem to have a good bit of rain, based on my time in those areas.

However, I don't think such anecdotal experience is very helpful, so I'd refer folks to the Wikipedia entry for Bordeaux (or such other town as you may be interested in). The climate-summary chart for Bordeaux shows that May averages 10.9 days with rain; April averages 11.9 days with rain. Both months average just over 3" of rain. Speaking for myself, I do care about rain in early spring, because it is often accompanied by fairly low temperatures. The cold-and-wet combination is something I'm not fond of.

It seems I'm not alone in that, because my very rainy day in Sarlat was a Wednesday, one of the two market days. The vendors were there but visitors were sparse. Waiters in restaurants were hanging out in doorways because they had no customers.