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Difficulties of driving in Normandy?

Greetings! My husband and I will be in France in November and plan to spend 2-3 nights in Normandy. Our main goal is to visit historic D-Day sites and possibly fit in MSM. From browsing the forum, we see that most posters advise renting a car over booking a tour for most efficient use of time and seeing more of what you really want to see. We have rented before in Europe so we are familiar with insurance, IDL, etc. Our concerns lie more with a few specific areas:
-How well does the GPS on your phone work in that area? We have Verizon which we switch to the international plan when traveling.
-Is signage difficult to interpret? Do car rentals provide a "cheat sheet" for informational, directional signs?
-Is parking plentiful and nearby most key sites? I imagine the availability won't be such an issue in November but you never know.

Note, we would be taking train from Paris, probably to Bayeaux or Caen. If forum members have a better suggestion of a base for Normandy, please say.

Posted by
10505 posts

Do car rentals provide a "cheat sheet" for informational, directional signs?

You should get a handle on these now before leaving for France. You are preparing yourself well with plenty of time, so go ahead and start googling and looking at results.

You should be fine driving. Just keep in mind that as November progresses, sunset gets earlier and earlier.

Caen and Bayeux are both good bases. It will be easier to rent a car in Caen: it will be more pleasant to stay in Bayeux.

Posted by
10811 posts

We have been in Normandy twice, for 3 nights and 4 nights. Both times we stayed in Bayeux and had a car. The first trip we were 4 adults and decided it was most cost effective to do everything by car. I regretted that decision so the trip 8 years later with 2 of us we did a day tour with Overlord and were very happy with that decision. It was a full day tour and we had 2 other days to drive to other places. Driving in Normandy is easy. As for signage, there is plenty of information on line regarding what signs mean and the rules of the road. You could even print out the information to refer to it when you’re there. I have rented cars multiple times in France and there has never been information provided about signs or rules. You’re expected to know that prior to renting. Our first trip was in September and the second in October and we never had a problem parking. In 2014 I used my phone for navigation and in 2022 I used my phone with Apple CarPlay. I have T-mobile so I don’t have to do anything special for using my phone.

Posted by
143 posts

As Kim has mentioned, it is much easier to rent a car in Caen. There are four companies right outside the train station. Car rental agencies are far away from the Bayeux station and they are quirky franchises that may not have the model you requested. Kim is also right about staying in Bayeux--it's a lovely Norman town. Caen was leveled in the war and has all the charm of a post-war strip mall.

Regarding driving in France, you should consult some reputable websites BEFORE you leave. One tip: When entering a town, the sign showing the name of that town is ALSO considered a speed limit sign even though there are no markings to that effect. It's 50 kilometers per hour. That limits ends when you leave town and see the sign with a slash through the town's name.

Posted by
11841 posts

In your France/Normandy RS guide books, look near the back of the book for driving info.
We drove to Normandy from Paris so can’t help. Driving in Normandy is easy.

Posted by
368 posts

As someone who has taken both the épreuve théorique général (regulations test) and the épreuve pratique (driving test) in France to get my Permis B (auto driver's license -- passed both on first try) and as someone who has lived and driven in Normandie for several years (as well as most other parts of France prior to buying our house in Normandie), I might have a useful perspective on these questions.

  • How well does the GPS on your phone work in that area?

It works pretty well in more densely populated areas, not so well in more remote areas (zones blanches) where cell coverage can be spotty. And it often works not at all (of course) in underground parking garages, so if parked in one you generally have to exit, drive for a bit, pull over, and plot out your course (or do it before you enter the garage to get in your car). Also, see my comment in another post:

Taking a different perspective on this topic: beware Google Maps (and
probably most automotive-based GPS systems) when plotting routes and
estimating driving times in rural France. I don't know how such tools
are programmed, but they seem to consider distance, some information
on typical traffic delays, and speed limits to recommend routes and
estimate travel times. In a place like rural France, where the
principle of "priorité à droit" (yielding to drivers entering the
roadway from the right) this can lead to very poor recommended routes
and inaccurate driving time estimates. Many times I've requested a
route between point A and B and the GPS recommends a shorter route,
where indeed the posted speed limit is 80 or 90 km/h, but completely
ignores the presence of blind curves caused by hedgerows, single lane
roads or roads 1.5 lanes in width, with muddy shoulders most of the
year, and priorité à droit on many roads, which requires a careful
driver to slow at almost every oncoming crossroads to ensure no one is
approaching from the right, which would risk a collision without
slowing. In other words, it's usually better on time, and far less
stressful, to favor major roads that have priority over entering
roads, that are wider, and lack the blind curves found on smaller,
perhaps shorter routes.

  • Is signage difficult to interpret? Do car rentals provide a "cheat sheet" for informational, directional signs?

I'm not aware of car rental companies providing cheat sheets. I can imagine them not doing so because of liability reasons (i.e. omissions). Signs are pretty straightforward as others have commented. In addition to their advice, make sure you understand the signs related to priorité à droit: when you have the right of way, when your right of way ends, and so forth. This is very important in rural areas and small- to medium-sized towns in Normandie.

  • Is parking plentiful and nearby most key sites? I imagine the availability won't be such an issue in November but you never know.

I'm not sure what you would consider "nearby" but yes, parking generally is plentiful in November except in central towns and cities, and even there if you can find underground parking or large surface lots (rare except for Mont-Saint-Michel and certain major D-Day sites) you're generally in good shape.

Lastly, it's great that some drivers have found driving in Normandie easy. It can be easy if you stick to major roads. It can be quite the opposite in rural areas where you find lots of blind curves on narrow roads with little to no shoulder and may encounter farm equipment that either makes you back up to a wide spot if encountering them head on, or will delay you if traveling in the same direction.

Hope that helps. Feel free to contact me if you any specific questions.

Posted by
1337 posts

Do take the advice of those who suggest renting in Caen.

I disagree with Thos that Caen is lacking in charm. William the Conqueror's castle, Vaugueux neighbourhood, Eglise Saint-Pierre and several other historic churches and museums are all located in or adjacent to city center - walkable from the train station. The Caen Memorial, a large WWII museum, is on the outskirts of town. If so inclined, a day spent exploring Caen can be well worthwhile.

Posted by
1122 posts

We drove throughout Normandy last spring. It's so easy to drive and navigate. We did request a GPS for our car because I was worried too. But, we have Verizon and my hubby's phone worked just fine for google maps. (For whatever reason a lot of time with my iPhone the voice on google maps won't activate. I've never figured out a solution).

Anyway, I really prepared and read up on rules of the road. I even read online that in roundabouts that the car waiting to enter has right of way over those already in the round about. I asked the car rental clerk...he said in his beautiful French accent, "do you think we are idiots, no!" We all laughed! I did make sure I understood the priorite a droit, but never encountered any vehicles/farm equipment or otherwise where I had to navigate that situation, but saw the sign plenty when on rural country roads where we followed my husband's grandfather's footsteps postwar WW1.

My husband injured his foot right before so I unexpectedly did all the driving. The roads are so nicely paved; it was a real pleasure to drive. It all makes sense.

Make sure your accommodations in Bayeux has parking available. Otherwise you will find no problems with parking. Bayeux is absolutely charming. As is the entire Normandy region.

Posted by
34604 posts

in roundabouts that the car waiting to enter has right of way over those already in the round about. I asked the car rental clerk...he said in his beautiful French accent, "do you think we are idiots, no!"

apparently he was a country hick and had never driven on the Boulevard Périphérique in Paris. Have a look at the rules of that ring road around central Paris. And the traditional rules around the Arc de Triomphe...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boulevard_P%C3%A9riph%C3%A9rique

Posted by
7453 posts

I recall the roads around the landing beaches areas being only a couple lanes so traffic moved slowly.

If you know where you plan on stopping you can look up parking areas before going over and bookmark them to Google maps or whichever navigation system you’re going to use. That will save time looking for them.

I use Google maps and in addition to using data, I also download maps for offline use in case there is no cell service in certain areas. I’ve had no problem using Google maps to get around. Just remember there are quirks to any navigation system, like trying to take you on roads that don’t exist, across bridges that are pedestrian only, or taking a cow path up to a castle since it’s a shorter distance than going by the actual road.

Posted by
1122 posts

Nigel, we were in Rennes when he mentioned it. Maybe your link is the info I read. Anyway, nobody was giving the right of way to those entering the roundabout when we were in small rural communities in Normandy. I wouldn't attempt central Paris!

Posted by
3089 posts

During our visit to Normandy last September we found that connectivity was pretty spotty to non-existent while driving in the countryside when using either Google Maps or Waze - we were using Verizon too.
As long as I loaded up our route in advance using the WiFi at our accommodation we did fine, but we had a couple of hiccups when our connectivity went away completely while on the road.

Posted by
1304 posts

Everything Kim said is spot on. I will only add that there is plenty of parking at most sites as long as it isn't a D-day anniversary (and even many sites then have plenty of parking). For November, I wouldn't worry at all—but it will get dark early.

I think my GPS has worked fine on my visits, but at this point I am already fairly familiar with the roads around the major sites. Watch for speed limits changes (some are not posted other than simply saying you are entering/exiting a town). Those rural lanes are narrow, but the locals don't want you to be dawdling if they have somewhere to get to.

Posted by
2136 posts

We also found driving in Normandy pretty easy. Even in August we didn’t encounter massive traffic nor any problem come to think of it. We did, however, print out road sign information as most were alien to us. We studied them fairly assiduously before leaving home and kept them always at hand while driving. I was always surprised rental facilities didn’t provide them to drivers until I considered that not every car renter in Europe is an American. My duh. Safe travels.

Posted by
28 posts

Thank you, everyone! You've been so very helpful. I knew I could count on the RS forum folks for good advice.

I do have a few MSM questions. About how long should one plan to spend at MSM? Is there a train station nearby to catch a train back to Paris after our visit? Or should we just plan to go back to Bayeux to get the train? This is assuming we DON'T have a rental car to return in Caen.

Posted by
1304 posts

About how long should one plan to spend at MSM?

I highly recommend spending an overnight—preferably on island. Pardon the pun, but experiencing it in the evening or early morning versus the mid-day crush of tourists is "day and night." As for a train, there is a TGV from Rennes to Paris, which is much closer than Bayeux or Caen. I have always rented a car, so I am not sure abut the bus from there to MSM.