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Day Trips from Aix-en-Provence?

Hi all,

We've settled into Aix-en-Provence quite nicely and are ready to venture out this weekend, the first of three weekends! We do not have a car so are looking for places where we can take an easy bus, train or TGV. (We will rent a car for our last weekend to visit the Luberon later in the month.)

What do you think about Marseilles as an easy first day trip using public transportation? The L050 bus is a 44-minute ride and starts at Aix Gare Routiere and stops at Sous Prefecture, La Beauvalle, and then Gare St. Charles. Then it looks like the bus is a non-stop ride back to Aix.

I see an 11:00 am Marseilles Walking Tour on Sunday that starts at Vieux Port (if I can find it from Gare St. Charles). ;)

We speak very little French; do you think we can manage this via public transportation? Any other ideas from Aix?

Thank you in advance!

Posted by
3990 posts

I think that you can manage this with very little French. Plus what French you do have probably will not help you in Marseille where I found the spoken word sounded totally different from French I hear elsewhere in France. It's an easy almost 20 minute walk from the train station to the starting point of the tour. You could take the metro for part of way but I don't think it saves you that much walking. I like Marseille so I think it is a good day trip. Marseille is really bustling or at least it has been every time I have been there and I mention that so you know to expect a big city feel. Try to see the Cathedrale de la Major while you are in Marseille.
For ideas from Aix, one suggestion is that taking the bus to Le Ciotat.

Posted by
7303 posts

You will definitely manage, the bus is cheap,easy, frequent and fast. To head from Gare Saint Charles to the Vieux Port, some streets are a bit scruffy and do not give the nicest first impression of Marseille. I would actually take the metro, it is quick and easy. It drops you on the water's edge with a definite wow effect!

Posted by
972 posts

Thanks both!

Could it be that much is closed on Sundays? I have looked up a few restaurant recommendations but so far everything I have looked up in the Le Panier and Vieux Port say closed.

Posted by
28082 posts

This is the bus company that provides at least some of the bus service out of Aix: https://www.lepilote.com/fr/itineraires/4/JourneyPlanner/Index

In my experience the staff at local tourist offices are pleased to make suggestions for side-trips to visitors who have enough time in the area to go to some of the less well-known destinations. Explain that you'll be taking buses or trains and ask what would make an interesting day. They may even be able to give you a print-out of the train or bus schedule.

Cassis is a viable day-trip from Aix. Travel time will be close to 2 hours each way--a longer trip than I'd usually want to make. However, Cassis is fairly small and you don't need 12 hours to see it, and you have a lot of time in Aix, so you're probably going to end up needing to take some longer day-trips. For Cassis it appears you have a choice between two buses (changing at Pole d'Exchanges, whatever/wherever that is) and a train/bus combo (changing in Marseille). I would certainly try to take different routes out and back for a change of scenery. In addition to walking around the town of Cassis, you can take a boat trip (weather permitting, I suppose) to the Calanques. There are also trips to the Calanques from the harbor in Marseille. I got this transportation info from Rome2Rio, but you must be super cautious about using that web site. I've found it to be unreliable as to travel times, frequencies and fares. What it's good for is telling you whether public transportation is available at all, where you'll probably need to transfer and what company runs the buses. Just keep drilling down for that information, then go to the bus-company website for specifics. For train service check the SNCF website.

For someone who enjoys walking a lot (as I do) there would be enough to see in Marseille to justify more than one trip there. I enjoyed seeing Vallon des Auffes, the old fishing harbor, as one example.

An option on the outskirts of Aix itself is Camp des Milles, a WWII internment camp that funneled people to the transit camp at Drancy, from which most were sent to concentration and death camps farther east. It has been turned into a memorial site and museum. Very modern and well-done; it's new enough it may not be mentioned in some guide books. Practically all the psoted information has been translated into English. There's bus service from the the center of town. The lower level of the complex is quite chilly even on hot summer days, so take a wrap of some sort.

Posted by
771 posts

We had one day in Aix-en-Provence at the end of a Rick Steves tour. We did an all day tour through the tourist office that included Arles, Les Baux de Provence and Pont du Gard. While there wasn't lots of time at each place, we were glad we got to see those places. It seems you may have more time to spread things out, but it's an option. There was an 8 passenger van. The driver was not a "guide," she didn't accompany us to sights, but gave good background as we traveled. Of course, the Rick Steves France book helped with information, as well.

https://www.aixenprovencetourism.com

If you click on "Destinations'" then "Guided Tours and Daily Excursions," you can see what they offer in the area.

Paul Cezanne's home and studio is nearby, and they offer tours, but I think you can get there by public bus.

Posted by
28082 posts

Rick's book on Provence and the French Riviera has more-detailed information on that part of the country than the general book on France. It will be very helpful to you. You may also want a second book with broader coverage, because Rick tends to focus intensely on selected places rather than trying to provide a bit of information on more potential destinations.

Posted by
972 posts

Thanks @acraven! I left my annotated Rick Steves Guide Book on the plane. :( I am trying to recreate my plans but am struggling. I found an old version here in Aix but it's not the detail of his latest guide.

Yes, Cassis is on my list as well, but a bit more complicated to get to. I'm hoping that by taking a straight bus to Marseilles gives me some practice to venture out. We took trains and buses all over England but I don't feel as confident here since I don't know the language. Oh, and Les Milles is definitely on my list. I remember reading how much you enjoyed it.

Va, thanks for the tip. The Tourism Office wasn't super helpful in person but I will look online. I was thinking we would rent a car for a day and go to Lourmarin, Cucuron and Ansouis because I definitely want to see a bit of Peter Mayle Country.

Another idea was to go to Avignon for a day. I originally thought we would take the TGV but I think the bus at 1 hour and 28 minutes will be faster from city center to city center.

Has anyone ever heard of Vauvenargues? It was recommended as a small quaint village with a chateau.

Posted by
7303 posts

Yes, I have been to Vauvenargues. The castle is private and there is very little else. Only real reason to go there is to hike up Sainte-Victoire (beautiful, but quite strenuous). Much better to go to Lourmarin, if you want a quaint village.

As for Cassis, to me, getting there from Aix is too much of a hassle. La Ciotat, however, has a direct bus from Aix and is very charming, with some dramatic scenery on the doorstep.

Posted by
755 posts

Calimom, I’m glad someone remembered Peter Mayle! Years ago I ran into him in a bakery near Menerbes, trying to be incognito on his motorcycle. So many people were introduced to the Luberon and Vaucluse through his early books.

As you mention, Avignon would be another great day trip. Perfect without a car.

The Vauvenargues area has been my base for a long time, but I agree with Balso that it’s not worth a special trip. Although I do recommend the nearby Bibémus Quarry tour, available through the Aix tourist office. Cézanne painted in a small home there, and you can see some of the vistas he painted. Much of the early stone for Aix came from there. An easy walk through the trees.

Posted by
28 posts

Hi Calimom:
A few years ago from Aix, we visited the calanques by boat. There are tours from either Marseilles or Cassis. It’s a rugged coastline with jagged cliffs and beautiful scenery from the water side. We didn’t pre-book and just found which boat was leaving next. I hear there are also smaller boat excursions that stop and allow you to swim in the clear waters. Might be something different to do.

Posted by
28082 posts

A bus ticket will almost certainly be a lot less expensive than late purchase of a TGV ticket.

Posted by
972 posts

So interesting. Just met a lovely French couple who live in Quartier Mararin in Aix. She is originally from Marseilles and their 28 year old daughter lives in Marseilles going to college. (Their 16-year is doing an exchange program and lives with an older family in Irving, Texas (described as wearing cowboy hats and boots).

They told us to definitely take the metro to the Marseilles Port from the bus stop at Saint Charles. But shortly thereafter they said don’t go to Marseilles. They said “we are there a lot for our daughter. It’s not set up for tourism. The Saint Charles area is very bad. Skip it.”

Just thought I’d pass it on.

Posted by
7303 posts

The Saint Charles area is indeed scruffy, hence my suggestion to take the metro. The station itself is safe (arguably safer than Paris train stations). Otherwise, the rest of touristy areas in town pose no particular challenges... If you are interested in what Marseille has to offer, this comment you heard should not put you off. My experience having lived in Marseille for a little bit, is that many people who live in Aix, which is far wealthier than Marseille, tend to look down on their often scruffy, down-at-heel neighboring city.

Posted by
3990 posts

@ CaliMom, Almost everyone I have ever met in Paris or in Provence other than Marseille (especially Aix-en-Provence) has encouraged me to avoid that city. I've been a few times. I like it but I am not turned off my city life. It is very looked down upon by certain people. I used to live in Brooklyn, NY before Brooklyn was hip and whenever I would travel to visit a relative in Texas Hill Country, some of his friends would be horrified at the idea of living in Brooklyn so I took statements about Marseille with a grain of salt. It has scruffy/gritty areas like all cities do but it was named one of the European Capitals of Culture in 2013 so it's got its some great points. I will note that I found fewer people there spoke English than I expected, given its size.

Posted by
10625 posts

When we spent six months in Cassis, I used to go into Marseille once or twice a week. It's a very interesting city, very good history and culture museums, several very interesting religious structures including one with Celtic and Roman artifacts and a black Madonna in the crypt. BTW, one of my kids was at the university in Aix and there used to be a direct Aix-Cassis bus on the weekends that he'd take to visit us.

Posted by
972 posts

Thanks all! I also found a direct bus to Isle sur la Sourgue - the LER 17. It goes from Aix Gare Routiere to the ISLS stop R. Vasse in just over an hour and 8 stops. This looks easy! (I can’t figure out to insert a picture of the route here 🤷‍♀️) It goes through Cavallion.

Posted by
7303 posts

It does look easy! Could be fun on a Sunday (market day), if it runs on Sundays.

Posted by
5 posts

We’ve been in France since 9/8 and all of our concierges advised us unequivocally to not visit Marseille; one noted that it has become one of the most dangerous cities in France let alone Europe. We’ve just left Provence and Gordes, Les Baux, Bonnieux, Goult and Roussillion were beautiful villages worth visiting.

Posted by
10625 posts

Yes, drug gang problems in the northern suburb housing projects, including recent shootings. The area has become prioritaire for the government. But that's a different area.

One thing I've noticed after having spent almost a year in small towns in the south is that residents always have negative things to say about nearby cities and how much better it is in their small town. So as a tourist who wants to see the sights in the city, not move there, I'd take this advice with a grain of salt. BTW we moved to France's sixth largest city after five months in an idyllic, charming small tourist town in the south and we are still alive to tell the tale.

Posted by
972 posts

Sounds like Los Angeles ;)

We've gone on two great hikes in the area and seen some of the beautiful sites in Aix, its squares and markets, Saint Pierre Cemetary, Hotel de Caumont, Quartier Mazarin and the Cathedral of Saint-Sauveur. @Darcy, I desperately need you to help me with French pronunciation :)

We are going to take the bus to L'Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue on Thursday, take a bus to Avignon next week, then rent a car to see some of the Luberon villages after that. We also have Musee Granet and an English-guided tour of Atelier de Cezanne on our list as well as a few good French restaurants in town. Oh, and S'MART is in Parc Jourdan toward the end of the month with 200 local artists and 20 gallery owners.

Speaking of restaurants would love any suggestions French restaurants, brasseries, or bistros! Not looking for anything fancy. On our list, we have:
Chez Charlotte
Le Bistrot Campra
Le Patio
Il Etait Une Fois
Les Vielles Canailles
La Boucherie

Posted by
972 posts

Hello all,

Just a quick report back in case anyone needs similar advice. From Aix, it is quite easy to take a direct bus to several popular towns. In addition to L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Avignon and Marseilles, there also is a direct bus to Lauris (1 hr) , Lourmarin (1 hr 15) Bonnieux (1 hr 35) and Apt (1 hr 50).

Truly lots of choices that aren’t in the guide books or promoted much by the Aix Tourism office. Just take a digging as we all know 😊