Cote d'Azur in Winter

In the dead of winter, days are very short and tourist activities are fewer than they might otherwise be in spring through fall. I always recommend staying in cities during the winter months and that would mean Nice.

Rick has a book focused on that part of France. There is a great deal to see along the Riviera and in Provence, far more than we can post on this forum. And your personal interests make a lot of difference, too. Any interest in art? There are many, many art museums scattered all over the place.

Winter would not be my choice of time to visit that part of France. You'll need to check the websites of any museums and other attractions you want to visit, because many places cut back their days and hours of operation outside of peak season (which is summer). In the dead of winter, I think some spots open only 3 or 4 days a week; armed with current information from their websites, you can work around that limitation.

Nice is the transportation hub for the Riviera. You can hop on a regional train and zip both east and west. Hill villages usually require taking a bus, and I don't know how often they run in the winter; they're not particularly frequent even in May.

Be careful not to book anything that requires prepayment.

Queen Victoria spent her winters in Nice and that is my recommendation too. It is large enough to have choices of museums and dining, not affected by the season as much as smaller towns.

I was in Nice in January many years ago. There was much to do in the city and environs. It was lovely. It was light sweater weather.

I'd recommend Nice for the reasons cited by others. As noted, it started as a winter resort. The other major towns will also be largely open, but you'll see more of a seasonal impact in the smaller villages. In February, there is Carnaval and Menton has a citrus festival. In December, there are Christmas markets in the major cities and unusual festivals like the Nativity display festival in the tiny village of Luceram, for example. Usually, the only thing closed in Nice are seasonal businesses like jet ski rental and most of the beach clubs, plus a few others. Through the region, I've noticed that businesses close in November or January to take holidays, but they stay open in December and in February.

A couple years ago I was scoping out places to hang out in the Cote d'Azur to escape Canadian winters in pending retirement. Menton emerged as the winner. I cant remember the number, but it gets the most sunny and rain free days along the coast in that area.

Along with the Mistral winds of Provence, this one can hit Nice in the winter.

This violent, cold wind from the north that can feel chillier than its temperature when it hits a warm region. Like the mistral, the tramontane (tramontana in the Nice area), blows hardest in the colder months. Occurs generally when a high-pressure system has installed itself over Spain/the Azores as a low pressure builds in the Gulf of Genoa and a cold front crosses France from north to south.

In mid-March last year, I spent 2 nights in Marseille, then 5 in Nice and finally rented a car and stayed 3 nights in Saint Paul de Vence. I was pleased with all my choices.

I experienced the mistral in Marseille, but it was a sunny day, so not too bad. The coast from Antibes to Menton and the Italian border was warm and sunny every day. It was very easy to explore the towns along the coast by train from Nice and there was a wide selection of restaurants for dinners. I needed the car to get around the inland towns and scenery efficiently.

Of course weather is variable from one week to the next, as is one's tolerance to cold.
That being said, I had a FB friend who lived in Nice and I rem him posting photos of New Years Day - and people were dining outside, albeit with space heaters and light sweaters - that would be unheard of on NYD where I live and I'd probably have been out in a t-shirt if I was there. (remembering when we were in Genoa in early Oct and the locals had on scarves and gloves and leather coats and hubs and I were in our spring coats, unzipped and plenty warm.

Nice is lovely, with lots to do and I'd prob base there or very close by. We stayed in Villefranche sur Mer our first visit and it wasn't too far by train. Lots of lovely spots along the coast.

I am planning to visit the Nice area in early February. I am still in the planning phase but will likely stay in Nice and do day trips by bus and train from there. I chose Nice as the home base as smaller towns may have some businesses closed in February. I have learned that many Europeans use this area as their winter holiday as the rich did in years past. There may be more cafes and restaurants open than I imagined. Following the responses.

Have a great trip.

December is lovely as there are many christmas decorations and markets all over the place!

https://www.myprovence.fr/article/les-fetes-de-noel-en-provence

The south has many nice traditions and food around this time.

Nice is the capital and main city and has some nice parts, there are other nice towns nearby like Mougins. You can visit the world capital of perfume/fragrances (Grasse) nearby and take at tour at Fragonard...glass making in Biot..loads of outdoor activities e.g. hiking as well since weather is brisk but not freezing and still have a lot of sun.

Depends how far you go from Nice and what interests you...history, art, sport, etc...drive more inland into the heart of Provence for more CULTURE and traditions. Aix, Saint Remy, Baux and other small cities always organizing fun events.

Anywhere on the Côte will be sunnier and warmer than where we're from in December and February. However, the further east, the sunnier. Menton, all the way in the southeast corner on the Italian border, has a microclimate making it the warmest. A lot of retired northerners come there in winter. It has the lemon festival scheduled in February in "normal" times. But, it's a slog to get to see the other sights, even if trains and buses run along the coast.

Let me add that during these abnormal times, Nice is still the center of activities for a younger generation that crowds together. ( In Nice, just like where I live, it's the 20-29 year olds leading the statistics.)
We were there in March and despite the warnings to distance, it was nerve-wracking in crowded restaurants and even on some streets. My in-laws live there and say they avoid going some places in Nice due to youthful gatherings, but generally have no hesitations to go out shopping, restaurants, etc. Even our normally crowded favorite pizza place has spaced the tables. But, you do need to be aware. If this bothers you, a quieter town such as Antibes will have fewer gatherings.

I’ve never heard that or seen it, not more than West LA, which has the ocean breeze. You can see the hills at all times, unlike a lot of LA, if that gives you a comparison. I may never have paid attention to a problem along the Côte. Could you share an article.
I also think everywhere has some smog nowadays.

Now, I have seen brown hanging over the Rhone Valley when driving south. When I asked friends who lived there about pollution, they said it wasn’t a problem.

I'm interested in NIce too, but I've seen reports in French media that the air quality is really bad there and that coast because of all the vehicle traffic.

I've been numerous times in Feb, Mar, Apr, May, June, Sep, Oct.

I've never seen that. I have seen plenty of traffic in May and June.

Parking in Nice is a headache (and often bumper ache) year round. I love parking in Monaco (I'm one of the few here who is and has been in love with Monaco - since 1971).

To solve the Nice parking problem, and street parking can be quite elusive, just pull into an underground parking garage. In fact, we've done that everywhere: Cannes, Antibes, Menton, Monaco above ground....

I believe the pollution is considered moderate to low, depending on the type. The main problem is in the summer, with the sunlight and the geography with the hills. There was a story that put Nice near the top for number of days per year over a certain level. But other comparisons (like Numeo) have shown it below Paris, Lyon, Marseille, etc. In winter, it is not an issue at all. The various green initiatives including public transit expansion and the creation of green streets are intended to help.

Parking is no problem in the numerous garages. But really, in the city I would normally walk, take the tram, ebike or Uber.

Rick Steves used to offer a one week(ish?) tour of the French Riviera that ran over winter. It was short-lived, but would definitely something I would consider if it were offered again. Hope webmaster or someone in the office takes note - smile!

Thanks for finding the article, Barbra. It does say that the winds blow away the emissions. So they are expelled into the air but do blow away, like in California beach communities.

When I'm there, I stay in a house halfway up a mountain. Once in a blue moon looking out over the Mediterranean, I can see a layer of brown, but rarely.

Thanks everyone for the input!