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Convenient area to stay in Nice or another town

Planning a trip for early July (I know worst time for Cote D'Azur but is because it lines up with when I want to be at our next
stop in Provence)

Arriving via TGV train from Paris. Have 4 nights for the Cote D'Azur area in total and after that another 4 nights in Provence.
Will be renting a car at some point, to have at least for Provence portion.

Party of 3 ; wife, myself and our will be 5 year old daughter, therefore often compare Airbnb options to hotels since some hotels are not good for more than 2 in a room.

Quickly identified Eze as the town with the most interest for us but cannot really find what I was hoping for there for staying all 4 nights and worry that is too long in such a small town and not a great place for day tripping from either so rethinking that plan.
Still desire to stay overnight in Eze though so thinking 1 or 2 nights in Eze after staying 3 or 2 nights somewhere else.
Nice is an obvious choice, can arrive at the train station, best transport hub for visiting other towns I think.
As much as a dislike 1 night stays and multiple bases for a short time period I think it makes sense in this case since I really do want to see Eze without the mid day tourists.

Here is what we would have interest in seeing though schedule may not allow for everything:
Antibes, Cagnes Sur-Mer, St. Paul De Vence to the West - I think there is a bus that goes to these 3 which could be done same day.
Eze, Saint Jean Cap Ferrat and Monte Carlo to the East : probably see Saint Jean Cap Ferrat and Monte Carlo in the same day.
I recognize there is MUCH more to see in the area but had to set our prioritizes for only a 4 night stay.
Since we prefer smaller towns, Nice is not necessarily a must see but if staying there we obviously will and I am sure we would like Old Town and the Promenade along the sea.

If we did 2 nights Nice and 2 nights Eze would probably see towns to the West on the full day in Nice and the towns to the East during the time in Eze.

From Nice to Eze depending on lodging option in Eze may choose to rent the car then, renting from Nice train station, otherwise we have to take PT to Eze and return after Eze to get the car.

Trying to avoid any long walks especially considering times with both luggage and young daughter together.

So if Nice need somewhere close to the Train Station or with a way to get to the train station plus have a bus station where we could catch a bus to the west, I believe that is the way to go to the towns I mentioned to the West as opposed to a train.

Pool is a plus since we have our daughter though I am looking at it that if we don't have a pool in Nice it is OK as long as we do where we stay in Eze and vice versa. Next stop in Provence will be 4 nights and that place does have a pool.

Walking distance to old town or in old town would be a plus unless that messes up the logisitics.
Sea view would be a plus. Don't need beach access.

Do we need AC for early July? Probably.

Based on above is there a specific area you think I should concentrate on in Nice. There are so many Airbnb properties listed in Nice it is a little overwhelming without knowing a specific area or areas to look into.

Last question, given we are not planning much time for Nice itself will I find another town along a train route that may be even more convenient for what we want to do/see in our time? Still thinking as a combo with Eze and still need to arrive via Paris TGV train and at the end still need rental car from Nice train station or airport.

Leaving Eze may drive a little out of the way to see another place along the coast on that travel day with the car before reaching Provence. The area called the Esteral was recommend to me as a good place for a beautiful coastal drive and as long as we drive the toll road to get there as opposed to the sea coast road the traffic would not be a major issue?

Posted by
11570 posts

Stay in Nice, not tiny, steep Eze, especially with a small child. Day trips to St.Paul de Venice, Antibes and to east Cap Ferrat and Villefranche.
Look at Hotel Windsor in Nice.

Posted by
713 posts

OK, let me see

Eze while beautiful can be limiting as a base. There is no train in the famous high village, just the bus service. The train lets down way down below, near the sea. A car will ease things, but in July the traffic can be the highest, especially in the area around Monaco.

In Nice, you should look around Place Massena, the Old Town and the Carre d'Or. This is generally the area bounded by the Promenade des Anglais, the Chateau (Castle Hill), Boulevard Gambetta, Boulevard Victor Hugo and Rue Alberti. I don't recommend basing too close to the train station, as most of the sites (and decent restaurants) will be further away. There is a tram line that runs from the train station right down to Place Massena and the old Town. Tickets are 1E each when purchased in carnets of 10 or 1.50 each.

In July, air conditioning is a must, especially with the chance of street noise during the busy summer season. It's not typical and only about 1/3 of the apartments will have them -- this is particularly true of the Old Town (elevators can be scarce as well). There are only a few properties available that have a pool in these central neighborhoods. AirBnB has a very incomplete listing in Nice, for a variety of reasons. Nice has a well developed and regulated apartment rental market. You will find a more complete listing on Flipkey (or its affiliated sites); some professionally managed/full service properties like Nice Pebbles or Ashley Parker have their own platforms as their client base is mostly European -- and each town has it's own set of specialists and are often of a higher standard. However, you may find a rental has some minimum nights stay (3 to 7, for example) and may be better off consolidating your nights. You could also look at Antibes or Villefrance as a base, though the latter can get so crowded in the summer they block off access to the town by car.

I don't recommend taking the bus to Antibes. Take the train -- you can stop off on the way to Cannes. Unless you really want to see Cagnes sur Mer, people tend to drop it. The bus 400 will run from Nice to St. Paul de Vence -- you could also hit it on the way out of the area (very touristy in July).

Posted by
1829 posts

Thanks Suki!
Hotel Windsor looks good and can accommodate my party of 3. Higher end of budget for my dates for 3 but doable, do you find this to be an ideal location?
I am leaning toward 3 nights at a place like this to start, do the day tripping from here both east and west and then last day, rent the car and drive to a resort type place high up in the town of Eze which does have parking to just spend 1 night with an amazing view.
Want to go to Eze for the views, plus the charm which I fear the charm will not exist mid day in July but will at night and in the early Am before the tourists arrive.
Assuming we did this by the time we reach Eze we likely won't leave Eze until hotel checkout so the hilly nature of the town and walking is really not a big deal.

Posted by
1829 posts

Gooster, thank you very much.

You confirmed my thoughts on Eze which is why I won't base out of there but still desire to spend at least the night.
For a few reasons I am pretty much set on spending 1 night there, I was thinking 2 but willing to listen and cut that to 1.

As far as the tram in Nice, that is easy to catch from the train station and easy to use with luggage in tow?
Good to know re: AC and the apartment rentals, I will take a look at those other sites as well more options is good.

As far as Cagnes Sur Mer: It was recommended to me to see Renoir's Gardens there but from pictures alone the
Ephrussi de Rotschild Garden on Saint Jean Cap Ferrat look far more enjoyable.

St Paul De Vence I do want to see but the crowds are the drawback. Does it make a difference late morning or late afternoon or are both terribly crowded in July?

Does this 400 bus make many stops throughout the city of Nice or is their a main bus station we would need to take this from?

Thinking we would probably skip Cannes unless as you say we combine it with Antibes via the train and skip Cagnes Sur Mer.

Monte Carlo/Monaco is a must see but really just a checklist type of place. I don't think we will like it but want to see it. Thought driving through and just paying to park for a couple of hours made the most sense for there ; but if easy via bus or train maybe that is best.

Posted by
28084 posts

In the area around Nice, there are two types of destinations: those along the coast (take the train!) and those up in the hills (car or bus required for nearly all). Traffic on the coast road can lead to major delays.

I did not go to Monaco, Eze or Cagnes-sur-Mer, nor did I rent a car during my trip this summer, but I did glean this information:

  • The tourist office outside the Nice-Ville train station is very helpful. It has brochures and maps for many nearby destinations. Probably also bus schedules, and it certainly can tell you where to get on the bus to Eze, etc. Nice does not have a bus station at this time, and buses for different destinations depart from different stops. It's not easy to figure out where to stand to pick up any particular bus, and you don't have time to waste.

  • It's easy to use the ticket-vending machines in the train stations, but even in early May there were major lines for the machines at the Nice-Ville station. Perhaps there were a couple more machines down a side corridor; wish I had looked. You can probably buy your local tickets online, but if you have to stand in line to retrieve them from a vending machine, that may not help you much. Consider buying tickets the evening before. Note that you must indicate whether you are traveling during the peak or the off-peak period.

  • There is heavy pickpocket activity on the trains. Having a young child to keep track of may be a distraction for you and your wife. Don't carry excess cash or ATM/credit cards with you, and use a money belt or equivalent. If someone violates your personal space, assume that it may be a distraction technique.

  • Monaco has some solid attractions; I'd go for those, not just to stick my foot out the door of the train station to say I had been there. There's the prince's car collection, an excellent oceanographic museum/aquarium (possibly time-consuming and costly to visit, but would likely appeal to your daughter), and at least one significant garden.

  • St-Paul-de-Vence is, indeed, tourist-thronged; it was terrible even before mid-May. I'm not sure you need to see it if you're spending time in Eze unless you want to visit the wonderful Maeght Foundation (involves a walk from the nearest bus stop, but there are taxis). The town is very picturesque, but you're spending the night in Eze to improve your experience there, and I think you are going to be most unhappy with the crowds in SPdV--again, unless the museum is the main reason you're heading up that way. By comparison, the town of Vence was very quiet the day I was in the area; the bus goes there, too. I really liked walking around its historic center (a good distance from the bus station), but it doesn't have that cute/condensed feeling you get from SPdV.

  • Unless you are speaking of a tour bus, I doubt that there is a bus that will get you to Antibes, Cagnes-sur-Mer and SPdV in one day. Antibes is quite interesting and for me was considerably more than a one-hour stop. In any case, Antibes and Cagnes-sur-Mer are more efficiently reached by train.

  • I can vouch for the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, but it is not close to the train station. You'll need either a bus or a taxi. The gardens are very nice. However, there are many gardens along the Riviera, so you may have other options that require less total travel time.

  • Menton (over near the Italian border) has a very picturesque historic area (also very touristy) and two extremely interesting gardens, but both are very hilly, and I think not good with a four-year-old in tow. I mention this in case you later read about Menton and consider going there. I loved it, but I just don't think it's right for you on this trip.

  • Weekly street markets are a big thing along the Riviera and would probably interest your daughter. Google "market Antibes", "market Nice", etc., for information. I think there's some sort of market on Nice's Cours Saleya every day.

Posted by
1829 posts

Thanks Acraven for the detailed reply!
Part of why I was originally thinking of avoiding Nice was I envisioned the train station to be chaotic as you describe it.

If the tram works well though it is still probably the best town for us to stay those first 3 nights.
Seems to be many lodging options in the Place Massena area so I think I can find something there for us.
Having many restaurant options at night will be a big plus especially with our young daughter compared to I assume very limited choices in Eze.

To get to Eze if we only go there for 1 night, I think I will pickup the car in Nice and drive that day.

My thought is on that drive from Nice to Eze may be an ideal time to visit Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild and Cap Ferrat ; even if we have to pay too park reaching that garden with a car would be convenient and be something to do after check out before check in time I figure. Where I would book in Eze would have parking available though I think it is a pay valet type deal.

Then we would not use the car to visit Monaco, visiting it from Nice the day prior most likely.
Good to know about Monaco I did hear about the aquarium but think we will skip that due to lack of time, the gardens though are of interest and sticking my feet inside the famous casino for a quick minute is something we will want to do.

Saint Paul de Vence in part I want to visit because for a little while my brother lived in that town, that was years ago and I never visited him but would for this reason feel bad if I didn't at least see it.

Menton looks beautiful, I originally considered it as a base town for us. Looks very Italian which for me is appealing.
Decided it is a bit too out of the way for this trip though.
It is funny, the views from Eze remind me of Ravello one of my wife's favorite towns in Italy so that is why I want so badly to stay over there cause I know she will like that. So I am choosing our French vacation based on what we like in Italy, lol.

Yes, I hope we can catch a market during our time in Nice and also while in Provence.
Visiting the perfumery in Eze is a major thing on my list as well, my wife will want/like to do that for sure.

Posted by
28084 posts

ViaMichelin indicates that your proposed drive from Nice via the Villa Ephrussi to Eze is viable, but remember that you need to leave no belongings visible in your car while it's parked on Cap Ferrat, and you must not open the trunk when you arrive at your parking space to put things in it. I don't think there's a parking lot right at the Villa. I remember seeing some cars parked along the road for some distance. I also saw a van with a Villa Ephrussi sign on it. I have no idea whether van transportation is available to anyone who want it or is perhaps limited to the physically challenged. I imagine there's helpful parking information on the Villa's website.

Posted by
713 posts

The tram is relatively easy to navigate (always validate on board!), clean and new but can get very crowded. Uber works well in Nice and is very cost effective, if you have a lot of luggage. To get to the Windsor, in the heart of the Carre d'Or, it's about a 10 to 12 minute walk to the station. Note the Coulee Verte, aka Promenade du Paillon, down the center of Nice, has a large child's playground. The Cours Saleya market is open Tu to Su as the flower/produce market -- on Mondays, it's antiques/flea market. In the summer, there is a artisinal craft market in the evening. Locating near Place Massena or in the few blocks close to the Meridian will keep you close to plenty of dining choices. You may wish to reserve some time to take the Petit Train up to the top of the hill (Chateau) for one of the iconic views of the Riviera (or take the elevator).

Bus 400 leaves near Le Meridian on the Promenade (disappointing lobby, good breakfast, great balcony and roof cafe) and has stops all along the way -- about an hour to SPdV, sometimes more with traffic. It goes down the promenade and then turns up at CSM. You will minimize crowds at SPdV by getting there early in the day.

Note the casinos in Monaco have a dress code. Eze is a good source for your perfume.

Posted by
12313 posts

I'd suggest staying in Antibes close to the train station (although I like the medieval center better). Of the places I visited, (Menton, Monte Carlo, Villefranche, Nice, Antibes, Juan les Pins, Cannes, among others in that stretch) I thought Antibes was the nicest and had, by far, the nicest sand beaches. When the water is warm, there will be jellyfish in the water - so swimming may be limited to quick dips or wades. There are showers on the beach everywhere in the Riviera, people go from the water to the shower then back to their towel. Antibes also has a really nice marina and medieval section that you don't see in other parts of the Riviera.

I wouldn't use a car at all in the Riviera, use the train to get up and down the coast. See Eze as a daytrip when you are leaving the Riviera. You want a car to get there but you don't want to have a car while you are in the Riviera. You can either stay one night in Eze or continue to your next base in Provence. The drive you want in the Riviera is up on the hill and not through the coastal towns. There is the medium and the high route. I didn't end up driving it so I can't recommend the best option.

Posted by
33845 posts

Are you aware of just how steep Eze le Village is, and how narrow the donkey path is up from the carpark to the hotel at the top? (there is a very nice Jardin Exotique at the top, too)

I don't know if you are staying at the hotel at the top or some other rooms part way up (I didn't know there were any or see any but if they can can have a few shops I suppose there could be some) but based on your luggage question above I have to assume that the slog up the hill is not on. Do you have an arrangement whereby the hotel will get not only your luggage but you up the hill?

It is sufficiently steep that when I was last there a few years ago helicopters were being used to install a few telephone poles nearby.

I completely agree that a car and the Riviera in July are not happy bedfellows.

There is a bus (in the 80s, maybe the 82? from memory) which goes from the Beaulieu sur Mer train station to a stop right outside the Villa Ephrussi. Easy and cheap and no parking hassles. No parking at the Villa, you may be able to get nearby roadside parking. Or maybe not. Be very careful where you park. Especially on Cap Ferrat - the roads are more like small lanes and there is little spare room.

I love that part of the world but I'm would probably never go there in July. I certainly would never without good air conditioning. I'm normally there in February when it is lovely.

I hope that all your plans come together and you have a fab holiday...

Posted by
1829 posts

Thanks Nigel,
If going just for 1 night to Eze my ideal plan is to keep lodging costs on the lower side for 3 nights in Nice and then splurge for 1 night at the Chevre D'Or in Eze ; which is near the top and has parking on site (or valet with porters is probably a better description) so moving luggage around Eze is not a big concern at the moment. Place is way out of budget but if only 1 night can splurge.
Based on the driving directions I saw I would approach Eze from above the village not from below.

I have to admit at first I kind of overlooked some points of interest in Nice that now have my attention:
The lift or little train to the viewpoint, the main square, the whole tram system and car free area, the flower market, the Russian Cathedral ; it all looks great so I think 3 nights there is going to be the plan.
Getting the rental car on the 4th day and driving to Eze and once at the hotel won't be leaving the village until the next day, so not doing much driving in the area.

Will make certain to go with an option with AC.

Posted by
28084 posts

Nice is a city rather than a cute coastal town, which has its pluses. In addition to the many European-art museums, I especially enjoyed the International Museum of Naïve Art and the Asian Arts Museum. They're both on the western end of town out toward the airport, but I don't think they're close enough to walk from one to the other. I took buses and visited them on separate days. There's a garden near the Asian museum that I didn't learn about until after my visit; I was told it is nice.

Posted by
1829 posts

Yeah, and that is why I initially figured I would spend our time elsewhere but the city plusses have drawn me in and our next stop which is 4 nights in Moustiers Sainte-Marie is going to be a small, kind of out of the way hill town, we are not planning on spending any time in the cities while in the Provence area so Nice makes more and more sense as I finalize these plans.

I think my problem now, not much different than before is pairing down what is of most interest since there is more to see and do than we have time allotted for in the Cote D'Azur. I do not want to have us rushing about the entire time.

Posted by
775 posts

Have you considered staying in Villefranche-sur-Mer? Charming, coastal village with good train or bus service. We did easy day trips to Monaco, Antibes and Nice.

Posted by
1829 posts

I had it was one of my original thoughts but really did not see an ideal place, could not have a pool for example without being at a far from town hilly walking distance from what I recall. Had 1 hotel in town which looked nice and well positioned but was pricey especially for a room for 3 and my dates. If that hotel had a pool maybe I would think worth the cost. (Welcome Hotel I believe was the name). There were some studio type rentals by the water and low priced that looked nice but concluded it seemed too similar to Eze to combine the 2 and have my mind set on Eze for 1 night at least so didn’t think it worked as well as Nice, Antibes, etc...
If I nixed Eze I would consider it again but right now I like the Nice with Eze combo plan

It looks beautiful, is it worth exploring if not staying there? I did hear it was more residential as opposed to having any must see places but that was just one person’s opinion

Posted by
8293 posts

We once stayed at the Hotel Suisse in Nice. Short walk to the Promenade, as well as not far from the RR station. You may want to check it out.