Christmas in Burgundy/Paris

Hey Folks,
I should mention that we've been to Paris and Burgundy quite a few times, so we're pretty well versed on the regions. We've never been to France for Christmas, though, so we're excited to hear opinions from folks who have Christmas specific ideas.

Thanks,
Darren

I would bet Beaune would get quite into the holiday spirit. Ask their tourism bureau or the concierge at a large hotel.

In Paris your little girls will love the Christmas-themed windows at the two big department stores, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. There are even small platforms for the little ones to stand on so they can see all the activity behind the glass. Last time we were there during the Christmas season, there was a man with a trained cat entertaining us all, and a Father Christmas wandering around as well.

The Christmas markets are so wonderful! And in Paris the last time we were there at Christmas, they had an ice skating rink by the hotel de ville.

If the Alsace is on the agenda, definitely go to Strasbourg. It is MAXIMUM. CHRISTMAS. The lights, German-style market chalets, building decor -- it is really, really magical, and will be especially for your daughters. At night it is a complete wonderland.

If you know Paris already, you will also love it at Christmas -- the lights, the shop decor, etc -- but the little markets they have set up throughout the city (mostly at the bottom of the Champs Elysse near the Concorde and at the base of the Trocadero across from the Eiffel Tower) can be kind of chaotic and almost feel more like a carnival (ie, kinda low quality). It's still fun to get a cup of vin chaud and wonder thru them. Ice skating and decorations at the Hotel de Ville. Good time of year to ride the huge ferris wheel at the Concorde. My favorite thing, though -- holiday foods! The patisserie wares are SO festive, specialty food shops are bursting with fun things, and everywhere - champagne and oysters! Make sure you spend some time in some of the residential areas in the 10th, 11th, 12th (there are little playgrounds everywhere for the girls) and check out the crates of oysters stacked outside of markets, the huge champagne displays in the supermarkets. Stop for some oysters and sancerre at a brasserie in these areas, and chocolat chaud for the girls. Enjoy being outside even in the cold under the toasty sidewalk heaters.

Families get together for really, really fancy meals this time of year, and you can take part in that with a really lovely gourmet-feeling treat instead of spending big at a restaurant. Splurge on a really spendy bottle of champagne and bring some roast chicken and charcuterie from a boucherie, a bunch of radishes and high quality salted butter from the supermarket, and a baguette and lovely desserts back to your hotel or apartment.

Practical notes: If you've mostly been to Paris at other times of year, prepare for the fact it will get dark super early (if memory serves, 4:30 or 5, depending on cloud cover), but of course you know everything's lit up at night so there are still plenty of things to see walking around after dark. Plan on at least some rain. I know the temp can vary from year to year, but I found it to be much warmer in general than I'd expected, especially indoors. I packed lots of layers, my warmest coat, etc. Was completely fine walking around outside, but as soon as we went indoors anywhere would be hot and angry. Just something to consider - make sure you carry a little folding nylon shopping sac when you are out and about; I can pretty much guarantee your kids will want to shed layers immediately when you go inside!!

Have a WONDERFUL time.

I loved the markets and the decorations in Colmar much more than even Strasbourg. There are other towns in Alsace that do it up too. Try a web search of Christmas markets in Alsace. You'll want more than one day to see them. In Colmar they closed at 7 p.m. There were rides for kids and a nativity/creche with live animals.

Wow! Thanks, guys! These are some great ideas, for sure. We are in France almost evey year, but we haven't spent Christmas in Europe since Germany in 2009 (pre-kids). We're really looking forward to this trip.
We are planning to head to Alsace for a day while in Burgundy to visit the Markets and have the girls do some Christmas shopping for each other. Leaning toward Colmar, but we just read a solid argument for Strasbourg!
Most of our time will be spent in the Burgundian countryside (we're staying in a house 15 minutes outside of Beaune), and then we head to Paris for our last 3 days.
Thanks again for the great advice for the holidays. Michelle, you've laid out some wonderful ideas for the kids while I Paris, so we appreciate it!

Darren, one more thing!! There are FREE carousels set up for Christmas all across the city by the various arrondissement governments. They have a sign on them saying "managés gratitues". (note there are little carnivals in Bastille and other places that are not free)

I am in Paris now and had totally forgotten about them until I saw them :-) Hopefully this will reach you!! Bonne noel.

All I can say is go early in your visit to Colmar or Strasbourg. If you don't, you won't have the option to go back for another day. According to viamichelin.com, it's a 3 hour drive from Beaune to Colmar. Strasbourg is 40 minutes farther. In Colmar, I especially noted that all the shops had wonderful decorations on the facades as well as in the shop windows. Other Alsacian villages do it up big as well.

Hope this isn't too late but if you can get to the Musee des Arts Forains at Bercy in Paris they are usually open at Christmastime for casual visitors (usually it is a big production to get reservations) and it is pretty interesting. You can see our trip here: https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2012/12/31/magic-at-musee-des-arts-forains/
But we were not there at Christmas that year and were tagged onto a French tour group and only sample rides were running. At Christmas they have the rides all going, the game booths working and concessions operating.