Chantilly, Vaux-Le-Vicomte or Fontainebleau

When we did Vaux le Vicomte the people at the Chateau called us a taxi to get back to the train. Of those three Vaux le Vicomte is my favorite. FWIW. Hotel de la Marine is certainly worth a visit but it is in no way a 'mini Versailles' -- Versailles is singular and most of the other chateaux are pretty much the same.

Of the 3 I've only done Chantilly and yes, I wanted to kick everyone out, lock the doors and settle in to that library. Wow. They had some cool chairs in there which I've not seen anywhere else. They were the forerunner, I suppose, of a recliner but only the legs raised and you could do either leg or both. I immediately thought of gouty old men drinking their port and flipping thru the Illuminated manuscripts with a painful, achey foot that needed elevating!

It was easy to get to. My friend and I took the train and there were taxis at the station so we hopped in one. As we were leaving the little shuttle bus pulled up and we hopped on. At that time, pre-Covid, it was free. Things have changed since that time (2017) regarding cell phones and companies such as UBER and BOLT in France. I would definitely download the BOLT app as you may be able to use them to get either to or from the Chateau if the weather is not good enough for a walk.

The gardens are by Le Notre.

It has the advantage of being a day trip, or actually, probably a 3/4 of a day trip, if that makes sense.

My tentative plans for a 2025 trip include spending the last two nights in Chantilly, and taking a cab/Uber to CDG for the flight home. Paris isn't one of the stops on this particular vacation.

I visited Hotel de la Marine late 2022. It was a fairly new attraction at the time - I was a bit disappointed. There is an audio-guide that didn't work perfectly; I noted that some current reviews mention this. The venue often seems to have special exhibits, but it didn't when I was there. I thought the hype was a bit more than the reality. Not a bad time, but if I hadn't already had multiple visits to Paris and to France in general, I might have wished I'd visited another spot. Just to give you more options, have you also looked at Musee Jacquemart-Andre? Slightly later era, but beautiful. https://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com/en

Fontainebleau - I don't think this would disappoint many. Napoleon connection. If you read French, look at the French language section of the official website - they offer tours (in French) that aren't listed on the English language section of the website. (At least that was true a year or so ago - I didn't check today.) I've taken the French language tour, additional rooms that are (obviously) incredible, but if you don't take an extra tour, you still won't have a lack of things to see.

Everything you've been considering is a winner in my mind! Personally, I've gotten to the point where when it is a toss-up between first time visits to competing venues, I generally go with the location that is easiest to access by public transport and on foot. I often have multiple options researched and make my final decision on the day or soon before my visit.

Janet, fair enough…just to clarify, I didn’t call it that myself

That IS good to know about VLV -

I wonder if I should consider doing a half day to Vaux-le-Vicomte instead of the Hotel de la Marine?

If I do one day go back to Paris - I’m sure I will- It’s a toss up as to whether I’d make time to see Versailles; I’m not even doing that now, lol

Too big, too many people….i just don’t have a pressing need to see it

Thanks!

Pam, lol - that visual!

They may have to kick ME out, lol

As a bonus, the exhibit that will be on while I’m in Paris is Les Tres Riche Heures de Duc de Berry, which is apparently an incredibly important medieval illuminated manuscript. Generally only “copies” are on display, so what a chance to see the original!

https://chateaudechantilly.fr/programmation/#ListEvents

That’s great info - thanks! Is BOLT French Uber?

I may take the bus (or whichever is easiest) to Senlis …explore, have dinner….

This may push Chantilly over the top for me.

I read that Le Notre’s favorite gardens are Chantilly

Thank you!

I see you are posting almost the same time, nevertheless here my thoughts.

You can’t go wrong with whatever your choice will be. From a French historical point of view Fontainebleau is to prefer as it represents it’s royal history (and imperial too) roughly from Renaissance till the 19th century. If French history in particular is of interest I would go to there.

The other two has ofcourse history too, but in a much lesser degree. But saying this, Vaux-le-Vicomte is to my opinion the most beautiful of the three, it’s a really nice architectural package and I got that wow sensation seeing it for the first time. The tragic story of Nicolas Fouquet is very interesting to learn and well showed in the main building.

Chantilly is very lovely too, not only famous for it’s liberary but it’s art collection too. Also well known for (as you already remarks) The Very Rich Hours of Duke de Berry. You must have a deeper historical knowledge to experience the signifance of this château. Otherwise beautiful place well to combine with the town of Chantilly and Senlis.

Not easy to make a choice, otherwise flip a coin.

ORD, Musee Jacquemart-André is on my list !

Since Hôtel de la Marine is less impressive than I’ve read, I wonder if I should take a half day to Vaux-le-Vicomte or Fontainebleau ?

I only understand and speak enough French to be polite pretty much, lol…I’m sure whatever tours they offer would be fabulous

Thank you!!!!

Wil, this is brilliant - thanks!

I think Chantilly is the definite in my mind, but I could choose to do another half day to either Fontainebleau or Vaux-Le-Vicomte…

I guess my choice would depend what I’m looking for …can’t go wrong at all

Thank you!!!

I haven't been to Chantilly for 25 years and this thread is making me put it on my list for the next couple of trips. It has lovely gardens which we didn't have time to spend in -- so time for a day trip. And we love Senlis. Might do a revisit there too.

another vote for Senlis.

Janet, I love it!

I need a job - maybe I can get one working for Chantilly tourist board, lol

Nigel, thanks!

I’m going to have a good time tonight researching Senlis and getting hyped up for a trip over 6 months away, lol

I keep going back and forth between Fontainebleau and Vaux-le-Vicomte summer candlelit evening.

But today I’m back on Fontainbleau - not just because of the chateau, but I’ve done some digging on Moret sur Loing, and it’s irresistible.

I read that you can swim in the river - is that true?

Is the barley sugar candy worth trying?

I could spend a few hours at the chateau and then more time, including dinner, in Moret sur Loing

I think I can take the direct train to Paris?

Thoughts?

Thank you!!!

I have been to all three more than once, twice to Chantilly and Vaux-le-Vicomte and numerous times to Fontainebleau.

Ideally, if time is not the pressing factor, I heartily recommend all three. I would suggest Fontainebleau in terms of the history and its impact. If you're interested in Napoleon, even had your interest piqued by that pathetic, awful movie with J. Phoenix , then see Fontainebleau. Other actors have portrayed Napoleon, the British actors D. Swift, I. Holm, and obviously, the American actor R. Steiger in addition to movies in French on Napoleon...excellent ones too.

As suggested take the French language tour in the Chateau. See where Napoleon bade Farewell to the Guard, signed his first abdication in 1814.

The centre ville of Fontainebleau is worth exploring, not only the Chateau and its grounds.

If you do find yourself with extra time to do a small excursion away from Fontainebleau, then I suggest Barbizon....lovely place, went there once, a bit hard to get to.

Fred, I wish I had the time …well technically, if I wanted to do the Summer evening at Vaux, I could still have most of a day in Paris. But, if I decided not to deal with the logistics of getting home in the dark, I would have to take another day from Paris…

They offer a few separate tours of the “secret” rooms - although I’d be frustrated at not understanding a word the guide says, I may book a couple of those. It’s too bad they don’t offer at least an English language written summary of the rooms. Without something like that, it’s impossible to know what you’re seeing

***They offer audio guides, but I’m not sure if it’s for the secret rooms

I would like to explore Fontainebleau the town if possible …I’ve got lots of time to figure it out

I need to return, lol - I just don’t have the time to do all that I’d love to, lol

Thank you so much !!!!

@ Betsy....You're welcome.

Yes, quite right, it's always a matter of time and setting the priority on what to see first. Not too far from the Chateau is a good museum on Napoleon and Napoleon III, his nephew. The problem is I cannot remember the exact name of this museum in French but the focus is on Napoleon's influence and effect on art and music, with paintings, sketches, etc.

My first time there in Aug. 1989 the woman curator happened to have on recordings of French marching music of the Napoleonic era....something to perk up your attention as I entered.

Walking distance from the Chateau is ca. 30 mins, that is, if you know where you're going. I suppose I know how to reach the place on foot since I've done this a few times from the Chateau and maybe the sights will come back to me. If interested, inquire at the Tourist Office in the centre ville. Tourism-wise, Fontainebleau markets itself on its connection and attachment to Napoleon.

Seeing the centre-ville now, post-pandemic, is different from 2015 or my very last time in 2017 as regards to the street contours and that sort of thing.

Fred, gives me plenty of reasons to come back!

Wow, I would have had the chills listening to that music!

That museum sounds very cool …I’ll play it by ear, see how the day goes…

Thank you for all of your help!

@ Betsy.....Some of the music of the Napoleonic era are played in the Napoleon films, eg, "Waterloo" with R. Steiger and also the massive Soviet version of "War and Peace" In terms of Napoleonic filmography you do hear that music in the classic Napoleonic films by the famous French director Abel Gance, at least 2 of them.

As awful as the "Napoleon" film with J. Phoenix was, ie, relative to historical accuracy and evaluation, the film did get the music historically correct, ie in the appropriate context with music of the French Revolution to the fall of Robespierre.

Fred, I’m tempted to go to You Tube to see if those film scores are available…

The closest I’ve ever come to listening to Napoleonic music is ABBA’s Waterloo, lol

I’m not much into movies - I had no idea there was a recent Napoleon movie!

@ Betsy....I know you meant that on Napoleonic music in a humourous way.

On YouTube, seriously, look up French Revolutionary and Napoleonic music, a lot of it is instrumental and others are vocal....lovely stuff, some of it bloody stuff too.

Culturally and historically, acutely revealing pertaining the Revolution songs, revealing deep class hatred, not so much against monarchy as an institution but against the aristocrats. Some these songs were featured in the J. Phoenix film. This part "they" got right.

If you are really lucky, you might be visiting the Chateau de Fontainebleau at a time of a reenactment on a Napoleon event . I've had no such luck, always missed them. They're called "Reconstitution" in French. The nearest I came to seeing a Napoleonic military music event was years ago during a visit to Les Invalides where musicians, 20 plus, these reenactors, dressed in the uniform of Napoleon's Imperial Guard were playing French marching songs of that era. Obviously, it attracted a crowd of on-lookers.

Fred, oh of course I was joking!

Ooh, that would be fun - I’ll Google about those !

Thank you !

Hi Betsy I have decided on Fontainebleau and Vaux -le -Vicomte because they are relatively close to each other. My husband and I will not have a car so our question is concerning transportation... The City Vision Company does not get very good reviews. Does anyone know if they are the only "reliable" option? Lynn

Hi Lynn

I know there are a bunch of tours that combine Fontainebleau and Vaux - but since I’m not looking to combine them, I haven’t looked too deeply

Just know that you’re only likely to get a couple of hours in each place

There is this one … one thing I like is that you get to see the private apartments. There are some rooms, including the theater and the private apartments, that are only accessed via French guided tours.

I’m still trying to find out if these rooms at least have English language info…but it has been nearly impossible to get in touch with anyone at Fontainebleau …

https://www.getyourguide.com/paris-l16/fontainebleau-and-vaux-le-vicomte-chateaux-day-trip-t53754/?ranking_uuid=20e5bd81-3586-4722-88f5-d98e4280bdd3

There are others

Hi Lynn

I know there are a bunch of tours that combine Fontainebleau and Vaux - but since I’m not looking to combine them, I haven’t looked too deeply

Just know that you’re only likely to get a couple of hours in each place

There is this one … one thing I like is that you get to see the private apartments.

https://www.getyourguide.com/paris-l16/fontainebleau-and-vaux-le-vicomte-chateaux-day-trip-t53754/?ranking_uuid=20e5bd81-3586-4722-88f5-d98e4280bdd3

And this gets great reviews

https://www.bluefox.travel/paris/fontainebleau-vaux-le-vicomte-castles-day-trip

@ Betsy....I can't remember when I took a guided tour either in English or French in the Chateau de Fontainebleau, ie just because it was in French does not mean I always understood for the most part everything, not so. Normally, I view the rooms along the allowed cordoned off carpeted path alone.

What one is allowed to view inside are cordoned off, in particular the gallery of portraits. You just follow the carpeted path. You'll see the desk where Napoleon signed his first abdication. I've lucked out in that each time there (always in the summer) the crowds going through the exhibits were not overwhelming and excessive.

There are lots of the Chateau that are cordoned off. You're not going to see the room where Napoleon tried committing suicide by taking the poison he had been carrying for the past two years. As to finding specific info on the current "special " exhibition, that's difficult.

Of the 3 sites Vaux-le-Vicomte, Chantilly, Fontainebleau, relative to historical impact and significance , if that is paramount in your choice, it is Fontainebleau.

Fred, Chantilly and Fontainebleau are my musts - the latter (I’ve decided) because of the history…though if we can’t actually go in the rooms, like in the others, that could very early change my mind.

My decision now is whether it’s crazy to also do Summer candlelit evening at Vaux.

@ Betsy....Since one of the primary incentives for your choosing Chantilly or Fontainebleau is their connections with historical personalities, ie Napoleon and Francis I with Chateau de Fontainebleau, likewise with Chantilly. It is also connected with a French military victor.

The Chateau de Chantilly is connected with the Grande Condé, the nephew of Louis XIII , the military hero of the decisive Battle of Rocroi in 1643 that basically ended Spanish military hegemony in NW Europe in the 1600s. Because of his role in this victory over the Spanish, the Grande Condé was awarded Chantilly.

If you go to Versailles, the Battle Gallerie in the Chateau de Versailles of victories includes the painting depicting the French victory at Rocroi and the Grande Condé. Obviously, no French battlefield defeats are among these paintings, ie, paintings depicting Napoleon's defeats at Waterloo and Leipzig are omitted.

Ideally, you should see both even though logistically they are situated at opposite ends of Paris. The Chateau de Fontainebleau features more on Napoleon now than was the case in the past.

Fred, absolutely…

Chantilly is a definite…for several reasons, one of which is I love horses…

I’m going back and forth, TBH ….and now I’ve thrown Rouen in the mix, lol

Hi,

On Chantilly and your "love of horses" this might be useful for the next trip or even this trip if you are going elsewhere in addition to France.

The German "version" of Chantilly in regards to horses (not the chateau) is the town of Warendorf bei Münster/Westfalen. This is a small town north by northeast of Dortmund towards Münster in Westphalia. I've not been there in Warendorf but a few times to Münster, which I would only recommend given ample leisurely time and if one is really into German history.

Noted for next time, Fred!