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Carcassone-overnight or long day? Other stops?

I adore touring castles. I've been to Chillon, Gruyeres, and a few on the Rhine. Yes, Carcassone is overflowing with tourists and Rick recommends spending the night. My situation is hubby and I will be arriving from the West Coast to Toulouse on April 28th. Based on previous trips, we expect to be quite jetlagged. We're thinking of 2-3 nights in Toulouse; we need to be in Nice the night of May 4th to start a hiking trip the next day. Carcassone is on the train line towards Nice. Should we plan on 3 nights In Toulouse and do a day trip to Carcassonne, returning to Toulouse late in the evening? Or 2 nights in Toulouse and 1 in Carcassonne? We don't generally like 1 night hotel stays. Still deciding where we should stop en route to Nice. We've been to Nice, Avignon, Nimes, Aix, but not to Marseille, Cassis, Narbonne, Montpelier, all of which have been suggested. Our week-long self-guided hike is in Haute Provence, including the Grand Canyon of the Verdon and other rural places. We like big cities, rural areas, small towns...if it's in France, we'll probably be happy! We're ending the trip in Paris. Thanks for suggestions.

Posted by
2295 posts

The train ride from Toulouse to Carcassonne is only about 45 minutes, and my recollection is that there are multiple trains each day on that route, so a day trip should be very feasible. We actually did it in reverse: stayed in Carcassonne and day-tripped to Toulouse. But you should check the schedule on SNCF to make sure the timing works for you.

For the record, the old walled city in Carcassonne is indeed very busy in summer, but things move along quite well. And the new city is very nice. We enjoyed the week we spent there.

Posted by
3539 posts

Toulouse, "the Pink City," is the fourth largest city in France by population. You can easily spend three full days sightseeing, plus day trips to Albi and/or Carcassonne. The logical approach, therefore, is to stay in Toulouse and organize day trips to these destinations. Whether it's to Carcassonne or Albi, there are direct trains from Toulouse approximately every 30 minutes, from 6:00 AM to 10:00 PM. Without a car, and in such a short time, don't expect to see rural areas or villages.

From Toulouse to Nice, there are plenty of places to stay. It's up to you to do your research and decide which one interests you most, keeping in mind that staying only one night won't allow you to see much more than the train station and the area around your hotel.

https://www.toulouse-tourisme.com/en/

To avoid walking to/from train stations, you can also take day trips by bus with the Toulouse Tourist Office.
See the schedules, prices, and conditions:

https://www.toulouse-tourisme.com/en/around-toulouse/organised-excursions-around-toulouse/

Posted by
18535 posts

I spent the night in Carcassone in the old city.

It was very crowded during the day. At night, I practically had the city to myself. (Granted it was just after Covid.)

The city was different at night than during the day. But you have to decide which you prefer.

I was traveling from Lyon to Toulouse and spent two night in Carcassone.

BTW, to me, Toulouse is underrated. I really enjoyed it.

Posted by
30144 posts

I'm another big fan of Toulouse. It's a very pretty city with a lot to see. Two nights as the first stop after an overnight flight would be way, way, way too short for me.

Posted by
2939 posts

Whether Carcassone or Toulouse, be sure to enjoy a cassoulet for dinner one night!

Posted by
2002 posts

Since you say you love castles (so do we), I would suggest a plan that maximizes castles. It is similar to what we did this past June.

Day 1: arrive Toulouse airport. Stay at the NH hotel which is attached to the airport and has a very good restaurant.
Day 2: Pick up rental car. Drive to Chateau Montsegur, stop in Mirepoix, head to Carcassonne. We stayed at the Hotel Donjon which is inside the walls. Enjoy the evening in Carcassonne - most tourists leave late afternoon.
Day 3: Enjoy early morning in Carcassonne. Head out late morning to visit some of the Cathar castles. Enjoy second evening in Carcassonne.

If you have an extra day, Mirepoix deserves an overnight. Beautiful medieval village with a central square completely surrounded by a covered arcade. Also has a very ornate cathedral and several excellent restaurants.

If you won't have a rental car, I believe there are day trips from Carcassonne that visit some of the Cathar castles. If you have not already done so, read "Labyrinth" by Kate Mosse. It will give you a real feeling for Carcassonne and the Cathar region during the time of the Albigensian crusade - i.e. northern France's reign of terror inflicted on the liberal Occitanie region in the early 1200s. There are many more castles in this region. And don't drive the Galamus Gorge road unless you enjoy narrow roads carved into the side of a cliff - scariest road we have ever driven.!

Posted by
2295 posts

Whether Carcassone or Toulouse, be sure to enjoy a cassoulet for dinner one night!

I truly wish I didn't find the texture of beans to be so unpleasant, as otherwise I know I'd love cassoulet. As it is, I need to satisfy myself with duck confit.

Posted by
3539 posts

I know I'd love cassoulet. As it is, I need to satisfy myself with
duck confit.

There are 3 cassoulet recipes: Toulouse, Carcassonne, and Castelnaudary. All three variations are based on white beans. The main difference is the meat used.

True traditional Carcassonne cassoulet also contains partridge, and not necessarily confit.

Toulouse cassoulet also includes Toulouse sausage.

Castelnaudary cassoulet, with its duck or goose confit, is considered the "original" cassoulet.

It is said that Castelnaudary cassoulet is the Father, Carcassonne cassoulet is the Son, and Toulouse cassoulet is the Holy Spirit. :)

Posted by
16688 posts

In October I did a 2-week tour that used Carcassonne for a base for 6 or so nights and I'd gone down from Paris for 2 nights ahead of the tour start. I agree that the plus thing about staying there is the bus tours mostly depart by late afternoon so you really have the place to yourselves. We were at the middle of October so some of the restaurants were closing for a break. You should have more available in April. I enjoyed it much more staying there as opposed to several years ago when I was on another tour that just did a day trip from Toulouse.

I'll add that Carcassonne even when fairly busy is not as bad as say....Mont Saint-Michel during the daytime.

Posted by
2939 posts

JoLui,
Merci pour l'information de cassoulet. Je prefere le Saint Esprit, mais je suis fidele au trinite, et je voudrais mange chacun!

Posted by
9506 posts

We did this as a day trip from Montpellier and had an anniversary lunch at the wonderful restaurant at the hotel De La Cite -- the Barbacane. Lovely lunch -- definitely needs reserving well in advance.

It was plenty of time for the old town which Violet le Duc turned into an over-restored Disney like experience but evocative and fun. We failed to reserve tickets for the trip back and ended up on a TER train having to scramble for seats. I am pretty good at the scramble but lots of people were standing or sitting on the floor. So book tickets on a TGV.

Posted by
753 posts

We stayed overnight and were so glad we did. We arrived in the afternoon and left the next morning by 10 or 11 as the crowds were picking up. It was very crowded during the day, but magical at night walking around the ramparts. I think in this case when it is on your way it makes sense to not return to Toulouse.

Posted by
3539 posts

This is getting off-topic, so for any specific questions related to cassoulet (history, legends, and the official recipe), please ask the Great Brotherhood of the Knights of Cassoulet.

https://www.confrerieducassoulet.com/index.html

Unfortunately, they don't recognize the authenticity of the cassoulets served in Carcassonne's restaurants.

Posted by
90 posts

Merci to all! Reviewing your replies plus reading The NY Times feature on Toulouse, I'm even more excited about staying in such a lovely and interesting city, and plan to stay for (at least) three nights.
Here's the link to the article:
https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2025/12/11/travel/things-to-do-toulouse.html?unlocked_article_code=1.IVA.5WYR.Qj5kIdMY-V_n&smid=url-share

HOTELS: I've looked at other postings on this forum on Toulouse hotels for recommendations, checked TripAdvisor, Booking(dot)com , etc. I admit to being a wee bit picky, especially on the first few days of a trip as I'm getting over jet lag. JoLui--I've appreciated your advice to stay clear of the train station area. Has anyone stayed at Mama Shelter Toulouse, Soclo, Ibis Styles Centre Capitole, Le Grand Balcon or Hotel Des Artes? I generally like a more design-y, boutique style. I know many people recommend Hotel Albert 1er but at least from the photos it doesn't match the feeling I enjoy.

Thanks again for so many helpful suggestions.