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Can't for the life of me decide about Versailles...help!

I have spent hours -- hours!! -- reading advice, blogs, guide books, forum posts, etc. I keep thinking I've decided, only to read something that swings me back the other way! The dilemma: do we or do we not add a visit to Versailles to our trip? We've got 5 days in Paris (myself, my husband, and two kids: 12 and 14 years old). Below, I'll post our itinerary so far. We do have a "spare" day, I think. The question is, do we fill that day with Versailles or do we save that day for just meandering? (And follow-up question: if we do go to Versailles, should we opt for a bike tour?)

Monday:
- Louvre tour
- Tuileries Garden
- Arc de Triomphe at sunset

Tuesday:
- Orsay tour
- Eiffel Tower at 3:30
- Seine river cruise at sunset

Wednesday:
- Sainte Chapelle
- Left Bank walk
- Luxembourg Garden
- Catacombs tour

Thursday:
- Montmartre/Sacre Couer
- Marche Bastille market
- Pere-Lachaise Cemetery
- Marais walk

Friday:
- Versailles?

Posted by
11569 posts

You have time so it’s your call. We went there on our third or fourth visit to Paris. I would rather enjoy walking around Paris with no agenda on my last day there. You have omitted my favorite site in Paris, L’Orangerie filled with Monet’s large water lily paintings.

Posted by
131 posts

Hi,

My vote is "yes" to Versailles. It's something you and your family will never forget, especially if you've never been to other European palaces (and you get a nice day). And you don't have to make it a "full day" provided you get a 9:00 AM ticket. You can get back to downtown Paris by 3:00 if you plan well (though it's easy to make it a 9:00 - 5:00 affair). It is truly magnificent and grandiose and should be seen at least once. It is breathtaking on your first visit. Renting bikes there (they now rent golf carts) is well worth it as you can cover the outside and Trianon quicker.

Nothing wrong with simply "meandering around Paris" either, but if you're that close to Versailles, you should do it.

Posted by
1529 posts

Yep, I vote yes, and my only exposure to France was at age 23 (but another trip is firmly on my bucket list) we did eiffel tower, sacre cour and also Versailles in about 3 days, plus a little wander on the Champ Eysye .... excellent all around

Posted by
914 posts

We've visited Versailles twice. Once as young newlyweds; and once with our then teenagers. With the teen trip, we could not believe how crowded the palace was, and it became overwhelming, so we were glad to have also purchased tickets for the musical gardens/fountains. Then our train back to Paris was cancelled, and it started raining, and there were no taxis. (It may have been a Sunday, and was pre-apps) We wandered in to a non touristy restaurant; eventually caught a later train, and summed it up to unexpected travel adventure. If it had been our last day in Paris, I might have wished we had skipped it. With that said, and I wouldn't expect that your experience would be the same; but I would highly suggest arriving before opening, and plan to get back in the afternoon, so that your last day in Paris is in the city.

Oh, and yes about what Suki said about L'Orangerie. What a wonderful small museum to see Monet's waterlilies.

Posted by
14723 posts

With kids the ages yours are, I'd skip. Inside the palace it's hot, crowded and they will feel smushed in some of the smaller rooms. I prefer to be out in the gardens and Marie Antoinette's Queen's Hamlet but it' a long walk (or you can rent a golf cart) out to that part.

There is so much to do in Paris that you won't be bored! Several people in the last few days have mentioned the Arts and Metiers Museum - it's scientific achievements and instruments. They might enjoy that -

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mus%C3%A9e_des_Arts_et_M%C3%A9tiers

https://www.arts-et-metiers.net/musee/visitor-information

Posted by
3279 posts

I think that a visit to Versailles is well worth it. I would get there first thing in the morning. You’ll be able to get back to Paris and enjoy your last afternoon and evening. You can rent bikes or a golf cart which can save a lot of walking and give you more flexibility than using the tram to visit the Queen’s Village and the Trianon palaces.

You might want to arrange your visits to the Louvre and Orsay. Monday is busy at the Louvre since the Orsay is closed. Likewise the Orsay will be crowed on Tuesday.

Posted by
2545 posts

I’ve been to Versailles 3 times and I’m planning my 4th trip. Each trip has been with family who were on their first trip. I’ve enjoyed it every time. Last time was with our two teens. We took the King’s Private Apartments tour (10€ each) and I recommend it. It’s not too long and gives you lots of good info. I think our tour was around 10-11:30. We then had lunch and took the little train to the Hamlet. We wandered a bit, stopped in the gift shop, and made our way back to Paris in time for dinner.

Versailles is unlike anything else you have planned. And unlike anything your kids will see in the US. I would read up on the history of Marie Antoinette (and the Hapsburgs) and the French Revolution, and take this opportunity to walk them through a monumental piece of France’s history.

Posted by
241 posts

Second vote for King’s Private Apartments tour. Get’s you away from the crowds of the main tour and at the end you can still do the regular tour with audio guide too. Then head to the gardens.

Posted by
11569 posts

I have been once and was treated to a private tour. I’m glad I saw it but have no interest in ever returning there.

Posted by
8550 posts

I thought the Kings apartment tour just added 90 boring minutes with the least interesting parts of the palace and used up everyone's energy. Now that there are timed entries, I would not do that. The public rooms of Versailles are incredible -- if you don't want to see those I would not bother making the trip out there for the rest of the estate. If you do make the trip in summer, do it on a Fountain Day as the fountains are what make the gardens interesting.
https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2016/02/15/fountains-of-versailles-a-little-chaos/
If the kids want to see Versailles, I'd go -- we did not find the public rooms so crowded we could not see and enjoy them -- it is a crowd but for adults and teens a manageable one .

Posted by
388 posts

I went to Versailles when I was 15 and I will never forget it. I had no idea what luxury was. (But honestly, the thing that impressed me the most were the gardens.) I couldn't completely digest the magnitude of the opulence and the resources it takes to build and maintain something like that, WAY back then! I have used that as a benchmark since. If your kids have never seen that much wealth, I think it's a must see. They have to fully understand what monarchy is/was and how that was accomplished (politics aside).

But if they've seen that level of wealth, then I'd focus on the French culture sights.

I'm taking my kids (17 and 13) this summer and I am not looking forward to seeing the palace again (I think I'll split off and spend time in the gardens) But this time, I'm much more interested in the Petit Trianon, especially after knowing more about Marie Antoinette (we saw the Hapsburg palace, Schönbrunn, in Vienna when the kids were much younger). Realizing her connection to those two palaces was quite delightful, actually!

Posted by
10621 posts

My son and granddaughter loved their Fat Tire Bike Tour through Paris. They also had a lot of fun during their visit to the Musée des Art Forains, the carnival/circus museum with tours in English. https://arts-forains.com/en
To see a bit of opulent decore, the Garnier Opera house is breathtaking and a lot easier to see without taking up a full day: https://www.operadeparis.fr/en/visits/palais-garnier

There is so much to see and do in Paris that it's not necessary to run off to Versaille on your last day. Save it for next time.
I've been there a few times, but not since mass tourism began. I wouldn't want to wait in long lines to get through security and then be so squeezed in rooms that they can't be appreciated.

This was the palace of a power-hungry monarch who bled his people dry and dined away during a famine that killed 1,300,000 of his subjects. As you can tell, I'm not a monarchist. LOL.

Posted by
14976 posts

I vote for going out to Versailles on your "spare day" although nothing at all wrong with "meandering about Paris." I did plenty of just that , walking and using the bus system in getting around, this time. It really gives you the opportunity to absorb, explore, and "soak in" the city.

Historically and culturally, I recommend seeing Versailles. Its very construction was politically motivated.

Posted by
7799 posts

Hi Jenn,

My advice would be to show photos of it to your teenagers. See if they’re interested after explaining the crowd of people,or if they would like to take a train to a nearby town for a day trip….or maybe a market & cooking or pastry class or other type of interest.

Posted by
33818 posts

If you are thinking you have to go because everybody else does so I MUST see it - forget that logic.

If you all want to go, then go and enjoy and you will already expect crowds so you can deal with them.

If you don't want to go, then don't. There is no law that you have to. You might well have better stories to tell from wandering around and taking the atmosphere of Paris (and the occasional macaron).

Posted by
491 posts

If you go out there with 12 and 14 year olds, by all means do the bike tour. I have done it three times, I think, with kids and husband and the biking through the gardens, seeing the trianon and the hameau and having a picnic were highlights of the day. The last time I went inside the palace it was unpleasantly crowded. I prefer seeing it from the outside.

Posted by
43 posts

I went when I was 16, and all I remember was the hall of mirrors, and the ceilings. So I have texted my niece and nephew who we took when they were 12 and 13 and ask them what they remember and if they would want to do it again. When I hear back I’ll get back to you.

Posted by
2156 posts

You have already received some good advice, preferences, suggestions, etc. I do not have kids, but I think the idea of showing your family some photos of the inside of the Palace is a good idea. If they are "oh, wow...mom, we've got to see this!!" then you have your answer.
We visited the Palace and the gardens on our own (free time when we took the RS Paris City Tour many, many years ago (our first Rick Steves Tour).
We took the train there, a short walk to the Palace. We did go inside the Palace, and (as others have referenced) it was incredibly packed with people. I remember seeing "her" bed and learning how it was considered an honor to be selected to witness the "act of love...my words not theirs"...okay, I will just say it: the sex that took place to insure the breeding of the royal lineage was proper. I thought, what the heck?????? But, that was the way things were done. I do remember the hall of mirrors or whatever it is called.

...............for me, it was the gardens, and specifically The Hamlet, that left the greatest impression on me. The boxwood were "tortured," kept clipped so low the trunks were incredibly large for the "shrub"....but from a distance it was all lovely. But, ohhhhh The Hamlet.....I loved it sooooo much. My heart rate slowed and I just could not take in enough of it. I quickly understood why it was her escape place. But, gardening is a big part of my life. To others it may just be a pretty little place with a lot of flowers (and that may still be special for many).

I echo the advice of look at photos...actually you can hit Trip Advisor and look at photos of everywhere you plan to go. Sit the family down and get input. You will know what is "right."

Posted by
334 posts

I could go either way. I’ve been to Versailles twice and enjoyed it immensely both times.

Your question reminds me of a little story about my kid on her first trip to Paris when she was 9. For our last day, we had planned a visit to an amusement park - especially for her. The night before, she shyly asked if we could just stay in Paris and skip the amusement park. Because she loved Paris so much. Very happily, we stayed in Paris and just wandered that last day.

Now this was 20 years ago, before you needed to buy your tickets online months in advance and reserve times for just about everything. We hadn’t bought the park tickets and could easily change plans. It’s not so easy to be spontaneous anymore.

With the advent of time slot reservations, it can be frustrating to need to make this type of decision and commit so far in advance. As others have suggested upthread, I’d check in with your kids to make sure that they are interested. If you decide to go, I’d suggest reserving the very first entrance of the day. The Hall of Mirrors is best seen with fewer fellow visitors checking out their reflections.

Posted by
43 posts

I followed up with my niece and nephew she was 12 he was 13 when we went. She doesn’t remember (now 28) it at all. The 13-year-old boy (now 29) remembers the boats and the canal. I agree with some above posters that you might be better spent doing some things they might remember like a bicycle tour or something like that. We did do a Segway tour and they both remembered that. Anyway just my advice whatever you do you will probably have fun. The question is as well they remember it as long as you do? L O L

Posted by
468 posts

I would give another shout-out for the gardens, but I am not a palace person. I just am not moved by the gilded frames, painted ceilings, and tapestries. I much preferred just walking around the grounds. I think the fountains had just been turned on for the season (April).

Posted by
46 posts

Visiting Versailles can be a GIANT pain. Unless the teens are clamoring to see the palace and gardens, I'd skip it. Long lines to get in, even with a timed ticket---hugely crowded interior tour, with many people who are comfortable with a MUCH smaller personal space radius than I, and a general lack of signage, passive interpretative info, etc makes for a chaotic experience in the palace. I loved walking through the Hall of Mirrors, but the rest of the palace rooms do not stick in my memory. I do recall being awed by the gilded gates, perhaps because we spent so long looking at them while in the endless security line. The gardens were impressive, and I'm glad we visited bc it was a place that loomed large in my imagination through various cultural references. But I wouldn't repeat the experience unless it was just to visit the gardens during a sound/light or fountain show.

NB, buy your return train ticket before you leave the station. We didn't, and ended up in a giant crush of people all trying to use a couple of ticket machines which were s-l-o-w-w. The largely international crowd struggled to use the machines, and no one was kind enough to buy a big stack of tickets out of the machine and sell them in cash to the ppl behind them in line. We missed two trains while waiting, and the lone human manning the station finally gave up and opened the gates and let everyone onto the final train of the afternoon. So we boarded, ticketless, and rode back to Paris. EXCEPT--you have to scan your ticket to EXIT the train station. And we were stuck behind a thicket of law-abiding international ppl, mostly Brits, who were just milling around. We climbed over the turnstiles like good American scofflaws. For all I know, the Brits are still queued up, waiting for a station attendant to let them out. Ha.

Honestly, I'd go elsewhere with teens on the last day in Paris. Use it as a day to tick off experiences they might have missed: shopping or just looking at Galeries Lafayette or the Grand Epicerie if they're into food, or whatever slice of Paris intersects with their interests and enthusiasms. If creative, they might be interested in someplace like 59 Rivoli (former art squat turned studio/gallery) or relish a visit to the Sennelier store on the Quai Voltaire (where artists from Cezanne to David Hockney have shopped).

Posted by
45 posts

I really appreciate everyone's responses and advice so, so much! I suffer from a combination of massive FOMO along with a crippling inability to make decisions -- tough combo when trip planning. So I ran it by my kids and they voted for a day of relaxation in the city rather than a visit to Versailles. I'm sure I'll still be stressing that they're missing out on something, but at the same time, this (hopefully!) won't be their last trip to Paris, so they can visit Versailles another time. And of course, if we went to Versailles, we'd still be "missing out" on a relaxing day in Paris!

I think I'll just keep the day open with some behind-the-scenes ideas of city things to do, but also let the kids maybe run the show that day, revisiting someplace they especially loved and/or checking out someplace new. It also looks like the Orangerie is open late on Fridays, so I think I'll also plan to have us go in there that evening to see the Waterlilies!

Again, thank you all so much!

Posted by
1401 posts

I went there about 15 years ago and there was NOTHING enjoyable about it. Endless queues and it was so busy you had no chance of appreciating the interiors. I saw a lot of mirrors. That’s about it.

Posted by
914 posts

You've made your decision! Don't have FOMO about skipping Versailles. But you should definitely have FOMO regarding L'Orangerie! You won't regret the kids' decision to stay in the city. The wonderful thing about traveling with kids and teens is, some things are hits, and some are misses, but it's all about new experiences. Mine are young adults now, who love traveling internationally! (And now it's not on our dime!)

Posted by
334 posts

@Jenn, I think that your family will be very happy with your decision to spend your last day in Paris. There’s always next time. ; )

Enjoy your trip!

Posted by
303 posts

I think you made the right decision. You have a lot packed in to your few days there, and Versaille can be stressful unless you stick to the gardens. I went in the end of April 2 years ago. You are packed like sardines in some rooms, so it's claustraphobic and difficult to see the other side of the room, and that's for an adult. The hall of mirrors was great and not so crowded as it is so big. You can look at wonderful pictures of that. Even is you have a museum pass as I did, you still have to wait in a long line for an entry time and may then have to wait another hour or so for your entry time. I would pass on it especially on your last day. Relax and enjoy for a day.

Posted by
33818 posts

I think that you will be happy with that decision.

Posted by
11 posts

Versailles is gorgeous, especially the gardens but I was so freaking exhausted by the time we got there because we had tried to cram so many museums and sights into our trip. As others have mentioned, it's very crowded and stressful. I did not enjoy it at all and wished we had planned more time to just sit at a Parisian cafe and enjoy the beautiful light, ambiance and people-watching. Sometimes less is more. Totally up to you of course and what you enjoy. Have a great trip no matter what you choose!

Posted by
393 posts

Don't stress ... you have made a great decision to spend your last day in Paris, rather than Versailles! (I recognize many love Versailles, but all the responses above certainly show a real divide on this.)

From our trip report of last June:

"... Versailles was actually rather hum-drum, despite being so large and monumental. Neither my wife nor I were impressed by the art or by the gardens. Everything is large and grand, but Chaumont's and Villandry's gardens were far more elegant.

For our final four nights and three days in Paris, other than for an excursion to Giverny we tried to stay off the tourist track even though we were staying just over a block away from the Luxembourg Gardens in the 6th Arr. We took in the very nice exhibit about Leon Monet (Claude's brother) currently at the Musée Luxembourg, Maison Balzac, the Sarah Bernhardt exhibit currently at the Petit Palais and some covered passages in the 9th and 2nd Arr. We also took in a lovely not-to-be-named street of shops and more - barely in the 5th, but far from the Seine."


There are a number of websites, https://parisjetaime.com, https://www.parisunlocked.com and https://www.parisinsidersguide.com that will help you identify less known places, as well as current or upcoming shows, music events, and gallery and museum exhibitions and more. For les passages couvertes, see https://www.parisdiscoveryguide.com/covered-passages-paris.html (There are other sites for these covered passages, as well)

Posted by
19 posts

I had to laugh when I saw your post, I feel your pain and have spent hours going back and forth on travel plans on 5 days in Paris in late may/june with my 17yo daughter. I was gonna go to vaux le vicompte castle because it looked spectacular and after all the reading and agonizing and evaluating logistics i decided to skip it and just focus on the paris stuff, because in the end I knew there would be things we would discover while we were there that we would want to visit and then wouldn't have time. I do have a habit of overscheduling. I did however find a Paris Charms and Secrets 4 hour electric bike tour of the city that looked really fun so booked that. I see we have very similar schedules planned, good luck!!

Posted by
1 posts

Not to add to your confusion, but Chantilly is absolutely beautiful and far less crowded than Versailles. A longer train ride than Versailles but IMHO a far nicer setting interesting history and not crammed into the city, It's been used in many movies.

Having said that, the Trianons and Hamlet I find much more enjoyable than the palace and much less crowded and no reservations needed. Also the market square in Versailles the town is very interesting when it's open and you can visit each of the food halls. Plus there are many wonderful patisserie shops all over the city.

Another alternative within Paris is the Museum Nissim de Camondo similar in architecture to the Petit Trianon. It's a frozen in time fully furnished mansion near Parque Monceau.

Whatever you choose to do you can't go wrong, after all you've in Paris!

Posted by
46 posts

If you do decide to go to Versailles, consider a visit to the Potager du Roi--the King's Vegetable Garden. Huge walled garden that actually provided food for the court. If any of your traveling party is into gardening, it's a great stop in Versailles.

Posted by
288 posts

I think you should go at least once. It is beautiful and worth a visit plus it is a great lesson in need vs want and over-the-top opulence. It is also one landmark that tells the story about what brought about the French Revolution and everything that came after. It can be crowded but there are pockets of space because it is so large and the gardens are beautiful. The ride there is extremely easy and not that long and affords another experience/perspective of Paris.

Posted by
207 posts

I have been to Versailles three times and just don't love it. In my opinion, one's last day in Paris should always be dedicated to shopping!

Posted by
3984 posts

Adding to the choir: you made the right decision. Your children are travel planning geniuses. To paraphrase Yogi Berra, Versailles is so crowded that no one goes there anymore.

Posted by
1136 posts

I love, absolutely love, Versailles. But the castle itself is meh IMO.

The grounds and gardens are wonderful. The town is charming, and there are plenty of excellent restaurants there. It's easy to get to Paris central via the RER.

But the castle itself is meh. Did I say that already?

Posted by
748 posts

Ask your kids and let them plan the day. My 17 yr old opted for the Pompido museum( modern art and the museum has the infra structure on the outside and a very long walk along the Seine. I wouldhave never chosen that but ot was a great day.

Posted by
1601 posts

I know we are piling on after you have already made your decision!

I think you made the right decision.

I also will echo Bets in suggesting a tour of the Garnier Opera house. I wasn't wowed by the opulence of Versailles (I did enjoy the historical guided tour though), but I was gobsmacked by the opulence of the Opera house. I recommend the "after hours" tour that focuses on the phantom of the opera. The timing means there aren't very many people milling around. I got some great pictures without other tourists in them.

Have a great trip! 158 days until I am in Paris again.