Cafe's, Bistros and Restaurants - some suggestions

I remember spending so much time worrying about what type of restaurant to eat and how would I know which is which and what would be different. And now after 5 trips to France, I don't worry about what kind of restaurant it is classified at. It's like here in US - we've got fancy ones, everyday places, diners.

As you're tooling around, keep your eyes open. Look at the menus that are always posted. If you see a busy one when you're walking back to your hotel/apartment one evening, take a look at the menu. If it looks a good one (to you) and the prices are what you can afford, plan to try it the next night or for lunch the next day. (And if you like it, go back the next day!)

I'd say most important is to get off the main tourist drag and into a more neighborhood place. I'll sometimes check Yelp, too. You can filter reviews by language, looking for ones with lots of local reviews. Rick's got a great podcast with a food stylist that lives in Paris with her French husband that is enlightening, too.

If you'd like a nice place for a dinner, I'd recommend La Librarie.

shawn’s post is excellent. I don’t eat at restaurants much in Paris but if there’s one you want to go to, be sure to make a reservation as they’re usually small and fill up fast... although the French don’t usually go to a restaurant much before 8:30 pm. I eat at cafés all the time. They are everywhere, most all are open late (at least 11pm or later), you usually can sit inside or outside, they’re casual and as shawn said, their menu is always posted outside so you can see if anything appeals to you.

I’m not an expert, but at a nice restaurant I think it’s expected to order 2 courses minimum if you’re alone. If you’re with someone, a main course each then share appetizer / dessert if you want. French portions are usually small.
But as long as you’re polite and well mannered, you can do what you’d like.

They don’t mind if you’re ordering differently from each other, as long as you do it at the start so they can manage the service for you. Splitting dessert is totally ok.

As I recall, if you’re ordering a la carte then portions tend to be bigger. That salad at lunch will be pretty big. If you order a prix fix menu, the portions are smaller and designed to be a sensible meal rather than an overindulgence. As you sound very interested in enjoying the culinary delights of France, I suggest you change up your style a little and try some menus. It’s a great way to sample different foods, and you may find yourself looking forward to that dessert!

at a restaurant you would be ordering a full meal ( plat) and you would also be expected to order an entree and dessert.

Generally, the expectation is that your order an entrée and plat each. Portions are not so large that you´ll find this too much.

Desserts may be shared and ordering them is totally optional.

I be looking for a cafe ? and are they open until dinner time ?

Cafés are generally open throughout the day and often into the night. It is usually not necessary to reserve at a café. Restaurants typically open at 19h30 (7:30 pm).

small restaurants are not turning tables

True, though an ever increasing number of restaurants have two seatings and turn all tables once. I don´t particularly like to be rushed and usually avoid restaurants with several seatings even though these restaurants often tend to be well known and popular dining locations.

I'm bookmarking restaurants,

Always reserve to avoid disappointment . Reserving also allows the restaurant to prepare and staff accordingly. There is no expectation that you order 3 courses or anything other than water to drink.

To reserve, it is always best to call the restaurant yourself. In Paris, restaurants have staff sufficiently fluent in English to take your reservation.

One point not touched on here is that many/most waiters IME expect you to order all of the meal at one time. That way they can time the orders to the chef and be able to serve your next course when you are ready for it.

Thank you all,

I will definitely be reserving as we get closer. This has been very helpful information. DH and I plan to eat a one or two formal restaurants, but we prefer a more casual venue.

I also tend to eat a large breakfast, balanced lunch and smallish dinner ( early ). I am sure we will be setting that aside - and eating small breakfast and late larger dinner. (YUM ! )

I am most concerned that I am not inappropriate in a restaurant.

I can't wait to get my hands on all the bakery treats.....

I'm curious where in France you plan to visit. Restaurant staff in different areas, with differing amounts of touristic burden, generally have different expectations.

The traditional French restaurant meal consists of an entrée (what in the U.S. is called an appetizer), a plat (what in the U.S. is called an entree), a dessert, and coffee. In some restaurants you'll be given an amuse-bouche before the entrée and in higher-level restaurants there may be several intermediate plates brought before you to ease the transition between the courses.

That said, one shouldn't feel pressure or intimidation to conform to the traditional French meal. If (in a simpler restaurant) you want to order an entrée and plat, and your tablemate just wants a plat, that shouldn't be a problem. Personally, I don't like sweets so I always pass on dessert and coffee, much to the (temporary) consternation of the waiter.

However, if you find yourself in a higher-grade restaurant, such as those with one or more Michelin stars, you'll have less flexibility and likely will find yourself involuntarily invested in a dizzying sequence of dishes, with a price consistent with the experience.

Don't worry about living up to the expectations of the server or disappointing the restaurant staff: chances are you'll never see them again and they'll never see you either. Just remember to leave a tip for the server and enjoy yourself.

We are staying 4 nights in Alsace, 2 nights in the Loire and 6 nights in Paris.

I'm also interested in a finding a farm inn in the Vosges for lunch or dinner ( we plan to drive the crest road).

I'm a good eater - I like snails, mussels, LOVE sauerkraut and any German food. I've never liked duck - but hoping well prepared duck will change that.

Not a fan of any organ meats, though will probably try foie gras.

You aren't expected to have a "plat", or an "entree".
You can order an "entree" or "plat". Then you can share dessert.
There are special menus - "cartes" where you can have this scenario for around 18 EU:
Entree + plat + dessert
Plat + dessert + and coffee
Wine isn't included in the price, however.

Bakeries are another matter - you can have baguette sandwiches that are mostly bread, for about 8 EU and a cookie and a drink.

Cafes are open until about 12 midnight.
Make note that restaurants are open until about 7:30 AM to 11:30 AM for breakfast, and no service will be available but a drink. Most restaurants are open until 7:30 till 11:30 PM.

KER, We eat our main meal at lunch too, and just soup, veggies, cheese in the evening, so I know what you are talking about. It's not easy to find places that cater to that. We often go for the 2-hour meal at lunch in France. In the evening, many times I've ordered only a main course and wine. My husband will eat more. I've ordered two first courses in a Michelin starred restaurant instead of first, main, because that was what I wanted. So you can order what you want, but as pointed out above, in a nice white-tablecloth restaurant in the evening it would be better to eat a full meal out of consideration because you are monopolizing one of their tables. If you want only a main or even only a first or salad, stick to the crowded places, cafes, and brasseries

For food in Paris, be sure to consult parisbymouth.com. Some of the expensive restaurants are fairly reasonable for lunch. For planning outside of Paris, I first use the Michelin Red Guide to France; it is in French but pretty easy to understand. Then I check with Trip Advisor.

I've been satisfied with the reservation service provided by The Fork, now a part of the TripAdvisor empire.
https://www.thefork.com/city/paris/415144
It has some suggestions about types of cuisine and areas of the city; I am cautious about reviews submitted by apparent customers. Later in the week, small restaurants may be fully booked. The Fork let's you get a jump on the process (and, significantly, in English). When asked, I provide my hotel telephone number. At least twice I have had a call from the restaurant during the day to verify my reservation for the evening. Small places need to have a seat on every chair to make the business work. There may also be a request, afterwards, to provide a review. For a free service, at least to the customer, it has worked well so far.