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Burgundy on a Sunday

Hi all,

Working on Plan C for our upcoming trip to France and Italy in October. Covid has thrown us for a loop 😊

What is open in Burgundy on a Sunday? I looked into Cave tours and tastings beneath Beaune and bike rides/wineries from there but it seems guided tours in Cote d Beaune are closed Sundays.. I did find Bouchard Aîné & Fils cellars, located at the Hôtel du Conseiller du Roy, is open for tastings on Sundays now. And I found some guided bike tours in Cote Nuit from Dijon open.

In California, wineries are open on Sundays.

The Dijon market isn’t open. It seems most stores are closed I’m both. Beaune and Dijon.

Does anyone know?

Posted by
27063 posts

Just as a general rule, it's common for food markets to be closed on Sundays. unless they're intended as much for tourists as for locals. Flea markets and the like, on the other hand, may be more likely to operate on Sunday.

One thing I noticed when traveling in France is that the tourist offices in smaller cities (in which category I would include Beaune and Dijon) sometimes offer English-language walking tours only on weekends, whereas French tours operate all week long. I can't tell you whether those tours operate on Sunday, though. You might take a look at the websites of the city tourism offices to see if there's any information there.

Here's Dijon: https://en.destinationdijon.com/

Here's Beaune: https://www.beaune-tourism.com/

Posted by
5581 posts

The RS guide has a couple suggested bike routes between wineries around Beaune. You could contact the wineries on the bike route to see if they are open Sundays and just rent some bikes. We tasted at Bouchard, it's right in town. Another winery right in Beaune is Patriarch. They are a larger operation and they could be open Sunday. I've been planning for Bordeaux and I'm finding their wineries open Sundays, especially in the harvest season. Just the drive from Beaune and Dijon was beautiful. We followed the Route des Grand Crus. We took a detour off the highway between Dijon and Loire and stopped in the town of Noyers-sur-Serein. It was a wonderful town to explore, there were only a few places open, but we didn't mind, just walking the streets was delightful. My recollection is that it was close to Vezelay.

Good Luck. So far, I have a Plan A and a Plan B. . .

Posted by
427 posts

We live in Burgundy (Bourgogne) and it is very quiet on Sundays. A few small towns have their weekly markets on Sundays, but these aren't tourist-oriented markets like the big one in Beaune; rather, it's a place to pick up vegetables, meat, fish, roasted chicken, some cheese, soap, and some inexpensive clothing (much of it from Italy). There might be the occasional brocante or vide grenier scheduled (these are like organized yard sales/garage sales), a few grocery stores and some boulangeries will be open in the morning, closing around noon, and that's about it. Some museums are open. Some restaurants and cafés are open. There's a reason why many McDonalds stores are packed with French families on Sundays -- not much else is open.

When we feel like doing something other than hanging around the house or riding bikes on a Sunday, it's usually outdoor sightseeing, such as you might do at Semur-en-Auxois, Vézelay, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, the Abby of Fontenay, or just amble around towns like Dijon, Beaune, Tournus, Cluny, or Mâcon to see the sites and inspect ancient structures and other landmarks.

One sight near Mâcon is la Roche de Solutré. If the weather is good when you're there, it's a nice (not too difficult) hike to the top with pretty stunning views of surrounding vineyards, which in October might still be in their autumn colors. There's a prehistory museum at the foot of the rock that I found pretty interesting in the similarity with stone implements, tools, and weapons found in the Americas -- it's just these are from 40,000 years ago or so, rather than 15,000 years ago. The museum is open 7 days a week. Hours are here. The rocks that form Solutré were uplifted and tilted as part the Alps orogeny (mountain building), which caused considerable structural deformation in this part of France

Posted by
9550 posts

It’s actually the rule rather than the exception for things to be closed in France on Sundays. Laws keep most places closed; places can petition for a special right to open if they are in a designated tourist area.

There is plenty to see in Burgundy in the glorious outside, as Sammy said.

Posted by
10176 posts

It's as Sammy said. I'll add that most people have a multi-course lunch at noon or 1 pm, followed by an outdoor activity. And Sammy's suggestion of the Solutré Rock and pre-historic museum is something you won't see in the States. You peer down over Macon vineyards from the top. I've heard it is fenced now, but it didn't used to be.

Posted by
954 posts

Thank you guys! We won’t have a car so I’m looking what is in Beaune.

Acraven the Beaune Tourism website is great! They have walks listed, and I am finding some wine tastings in town open on Sundays. But I’m not finding actual wineries open.

Sammy, it looks like Beaune or France is requiring masks be worn indoors; is that correct? We are no longer wearing masks in California in one is vaccinated.

I’m starting to think perhaps this isn’t the year to come to Beaune wine tasting, especially my main day being a Sunday. 😭

Posted by
5581 posts

Have you checked the RS guide for the easy to do self bike tours?

Posted by
427 posts

CaliMom,

Masks are required indoors and when outside in crowded conditions where distancing is difficult or impossible; such as standing in line outside a venue. In a few cities general mask wearing outdoors has been reinstated recently, but the incidence rate in Bourgogne is pretty low these days, so that doesn't apply in this area. No one can predict what the situation will be in October, so keep checking your web-based resources.

The government announced new restrictions Monday in an attempt to encourage more people to get vaccinated. I don't have a problem with them (and I'm already vaccinated) but some people do. There were scattered demonstrations in various cities today and more are planned for Saturday. I'll never understand some people. Frankly, I think the new rules are a good idea because they will make life quite boring indeed if you don't get yourself vaccinated.

Incidentally, Bourgogne Evasion is a pretty reliable place to rent bikes for either a guided tour or a self-guided tour. We've used them before a couple of times with friends visiting from the U.S. Their pickup and drop-off spot is just outside Parc de la Bouzaize, which is a pretty park with a pond on the west side of central Beaune.

Posted by
617 posts

Sammy's mention of Beaune's Parc de la Bouzaize ('dung') got me to thinkin'. CaliMom, if you wanted an easy walk with picnic potential, one can leave the park periphery to locate the aire de pique-nique table that RS describes in his guidebook. The walk there among vineyards is both easy and picturesque. If one wanted, it'd be easy to ascend the additional 20 minutes to the so-called 'Montagne de Beaune', a hill really, with pleasant walking and also a WWII memorial.

A French sign by a private vineyard up there ranked as one of the best we'd ever seen. It featured the motif of a guard dog with, "I can make it to the fence in 5 seconds. And you?"
You may want to have a peek at our (non-pictorial) TR about that 2016 voyage over on Fodors, where I go by 'zebec'. There are some logistical tips that might be of use, both in general plus for Sundays.
I am done. the grapes

Posted by
8038 posts

markets and market streets in France are generally closed from Sunday afternoon through Monday. -- weekly markets are open a couple of days a week and some are open Sunday mornings. Other stores tend to be closed Sundays and often Mondays. (never plan to visit a small touristy town on a Monday -- odds are great you will be lucky to find a cup of coffee -- we made that mistake with Senlis years ago -- the town was beautiful but none of the restaurants where we hoped to lunch nor the museums were open)

Posted by
954 posts

Hi Jules and Gregg - yes, I saw the bike routes in the Rick Steves guide! I am/was just hoping to be able to stop at wineries along the way and Sundays don't seem to be the best day. We will have a solid half day on Saturday, Sunday and all day Monday; I just want to plan my Sunday so it's not a lost day. Biking/hiking and a picnic would be lovely! Even to tour a cellar in Beaune on Sunday would be nice.

We are actually debating between Venice and Beaune. We are spending a month in Aix-en-Provence and are going to visit our daughter in Florence afterward (taking the TGV from Lyon to Turin). We just stumbled on a few extra days because United canceled our return flight. We recently became interested in Burgandy wines and it seems so quintessential French! Meanwhile, I had planned those extra days in Venice. :)

Sammy, thank you for all of the details!

I just heard back from the tourism office, here is what they said is open on Sundays:

Cellars in Beaune open on Sundays :
Patriarche:
The biggest cellars in Burgundy, located in the former convent of the Ladies of the Visitation: https://www.beaune-tourism.com/tasting/wineries/patriarche-pere-et-fils-674598
Bouchard Ainé et Fils:
They have developed a "parcours des 5 sens" - a multi-sensory experience to help you appreciate and describe the impact of wine on the senses: https://www.beaune-tourism.com/tasting/wineries/maison-bouchard-aine-fils-675011
Cellier de la Cabiote:
In the heart of Beaune, a stone's throw from the Hospices de Beaune, in our historic 17th-century cellar they will be delighted to welcome you warmly : https://www.beaune-tourism.com/tasting/wine-tasting/le-cellier-de-la-cabiote-801397
Marché aux Vins :
In the heart of the town, in front of the Hospices de Beaune, the Marché aux Vins is located in the 15th century church of the Cordelier : https://www.beaune-tourism.com/tasting/wineries/marche-aux-vins-674739
Jaffelin :
The smallest of the major estates in Burgundy is one of the few that still makes wine in the historical centre of Beaune, in oval wooden vats: https://www.beaune-tourism.com/tasting/wineries/maison-jaffelin-674778

Others domains :
Henri De Villamont in Savigny les Beaune:
Five minutes from Beaune, Savigny les Beaune will let you discover an unusual wine-growing estate with vast buildings: 2400 m2 of vaulted cellars of exceptional height : https://www.beaune-tourism.com/tasting/wineries/domaine-henri-de-villamont-675035

Château de Pommard
At the Château de Pommard, their wines are produced from five different Terroirs within a single Clos. This is the largest monopoly held by a single owner in Bourgogne today : https://www.beaune-tourism.com/tasting/wineries/domaine-chateau-de-pommard-674952

Domaine Boyer Martenot in Meursault:
A family domaine covering 10 hectares, which has been passed down from father to son for four generations: https://www.beaune-tourism.com/tasting/wineries/domaine-boyer-martenot-yves-674592

Château de Meursault
You'll have a guided tour of its splendid cellar from the 12th century and a wine tasting at the end: https://www.beaune-tourism.com/tasting/wineries/domaine-du-chateau-de-meursault-674768

Domaine Mestre in Santenay:
Their 18-hectare holding at Santenay on the Côte de Beaune has been in the family for five generations: https://www.beaune-tourism.com/tasting/wineries/domaine-mestre-pere-fils-675031

Posted by
5581 posts

@CaliMom, For my wineries I'd like to visit in September, I sent personal emails to each inquiring about their tasting and tours. Often there is a link to send an automated email and if not that there is an email address. All the wineries have responded, some want appointments, some just provide hours to drop by. It is much easier to contact the wineries and get a response than you might think and it only takes a few minutes for each one. Also, places may not be formally open, but they might offer you a Sunday appointment. If you haven't watched the RS episode where he goes to Beaune, I highly encourage it.

Also, just a quick check, Patriarch is open Sundays currently. I'd be surprised if they weren't open in October on Sundays. They just don't have the appointments up yet to be schedule. Patriarch was fun. They have quite extensive underground caves/cellar.

Posted by
1097 posts

Patriarch was a lot of fun. We were the only people we saw "down below" for the entirety of our stroll through the underground caves. There were bottles set out on barrels along the way that you could sample to your heart's content using your little silver cup. We emerged quite happier than when we descended. :D

One word of caution - the restrooms are a long jaunt back!

Posted by
954 posts

Yes I see Patriarch is open! Actually Sundays aren’t looking sooo closed. (I was hoping this might be the rationale to go to Venice instead! Analysis Paralysis LOL I want to do it all!) 😊

Jules, are you going this September? I recall you said somewhere that you might do a France only trip now.

Onto accommodations. Can anyone recommend a hotel or AirBnB to stay. Hotel le Cep is over my budget. Anything in the $150/night range? This is outside the little old town but looks cute:

https://www.lavillafleurie.fr/en/home/

Posted by
5581 posts

@CaliMom, yes we will be going this fall. We haven't decided which trip we are doing yet. Plan A is France and Spain. Plan B is all France, subbing Provence for Spain.