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Bordeaux Region

First, does anyone know why I'm getting this obnoxious large print?

We are visiting Bordeaux at the start of a larger trip at the beginning of September. Bordeaux is not a main focus of the trip, we just want to get a taste for the region. We are fairly well versed in wine production, varieties and tasting and have tasted other places in France, as well as Italy, Germany, Austria and Spain (and the U.S.). We are looking for more casual experiences. We have fond memories of tasting with winery owners/producers in other parts of Europe especially in Burgundy, Vouvray and Touraine. We will head towards Dordogne after Bordeaux and then south to Basque and further on.

1 I am looking for some feedback on the Cite' du Vin.

2 There is not a plethora of guidebook information pertaining to Bordeaux. I've contacted the tourism office and I am going to chat with the wine people at my local wine shop. So far what looks appealing and will have to be whittled down is a city walking tour in Bordeaux including churches, Blaye, St. Emilion, Route des Chateaux (Medoc), any other wine Trails/drives. We were thinking we'd like to do perhaps a couple wine tastings and maybe we'll go to Cognac and taste at Cognac Ornard (or better places for Cognac?) We would like suggestions for wineries to visit. A tour of a chateaux with a casual tasting seems more interesting to us than something very formal, or something that discusses the process of making wine. If we do buy wine, we would tend to buy wine for our picnics and less so wine to bring home. Because we have a propensity toward getting lost or making stops or taking detours, we prefer wineries that do not require an appointment, but we understand most do.

3 I'm seeing references to other Bordeaux wine trails, but can't find details. For the wine trails, we are most interested in scenery/views/picturesque villages than specific wine chateaus. There is a book on France Wine trails but apparently it is out of print though offered on Amazon for about $500!

4 Any wine tasting in the City of Bordeaux we can walk to?

5 Any particularly scenic spots/vistas? Any suggestions for stops for picnics?

6 We are quite responsible, and usually we picnic or take a break after tastings. We are not interested in a wine tour. We also probably do more photography/sight seeing, walks in towns/villages and that kind of thing. Less so a whole day or even a half day completely focused on wine/tasting.

7 Any details that you think we've overlooked? Other tips?

Thank you!

Posted by
7910 posts

I went to Bordeaux with my 20 year old niece. We visited Cite du vin. I learned a lot that I did not know from the exhibits covering winemaking around the world. It was very interesting so much that my niece ended up taking a course on winemaking as a part of her elective studies at Cornell. The visit ends at the top of the museum with a tasting of your choice from the selection that they have.

Posted by
27217 posts

I would guess the large font is the result of a symbol you used in your original post. Did you use the pound (number) sign? It's almost certainly something like that. It should work right if, instead, you use the numbered-list icon above the posting box.

I recall reading a negative comment or two about the Cite du Vin--perhaps not on this forum. Since I wasn't going there to take in the exhibition on wine-making, I didn't pay attention to the details. Since you're pretty serious about wine, perhaps you'll find the displays too basic for you. But I'm just guessing.

The food hall located near the Cite du Vin had some interesting options but not much in the way of indoor seating; I believe there were some outdoor tables. It would be a good place to pick up picnic (or in-room) fodder, I believe. I did buy something to eat on the spot; I consumed it at a stand-up table. I have no idea whether there are any wine offerings.

I suspect the very picturesque St-Emilion is more of a zoo on weekends than on weekdays. I went on Friday, May 31, and the lower part of town, where the restaurants are located, was busy but not ludicrously so. On the other hand, you might find some places closed on a Monday (maybe?).

Posted by
2916 posts

I think that the Bordeaux area is probably the worst place in France for the following:

We are looking for more casual experiences. We have fond memories of tasting with winery owners/producers in other parts of Europe

I've visited every wine region in France, and although I've visited Bordeaux itself several times, I've never visited any wineries there except for a couple of dessert wine producers in the St. Croix du Mont/Cadillac/Loupiac area. In fact, you might want to look into that if you want a more casual wine tasting experience.

Posted by
5706 posts

Acraven, you have it right! I used the number sign. Won't do that again. We will be in St. Emilion on a Thursday or Friday. We will try to make it the Thursday.

Jazz and acraven, thank you for your thoughts on the Cite' du Vin. I hope I will get a bit more input though what I read in the guidebook gives me the same impression as what acraven said.

Robert, Bordeaux was a good starting point for a much longer itinerary. The city itself looks lovely. I am pretty excited about Blaye. I'm dumping Cognac it's not by anything else in the itinerary. If Bordeaux is a bust, we will have La Rioja to look forward to!

Posted by
135 posts

We are planning a 6-week cycling trip to France arriving in Bordeaux on August 24 and staying for 4 nights before heading via bike to the Medoc for the start of our 38 days of cycling. We love wine and are definitely planning a visit to Cité du Vin on the advice of friends who really enjoyed it, finding it informative and quite educational.

We are also planning on going to Musée du Vin et du Negoce which has mixed reviews so I'll be happy with just a tasting session. There are a number of wine tours to the nearby Medoc vineyards from Bordeaux but I can't comment on them as we are planning on riding through the area for several days so have planned several rides through the area. I believe that some tours might be via bicycle but don't quote me on that. The Graves region is just south of Bordeaux and we will ride through there later, staying in Martillac.

I have used the Michelin Guide "Wine Regions in France" as well as "Exploring Wine Regions - Bordeaux" by Michael Higgens to give us a sense of places that might be open to visitors, albeit many require appointments. Biking doesn't really lend itself to structured visits to wineries. If nothing else, we have a list of chateaus to ride by and gawk at! There are also a series of books: Lewin Guides Wines and Top Vineyards that list all the major wineries by region. I'm using the Bordeaux Left Bank guide and the Languedoc-Roussillon guides from this series and they are very detailed with comments such as "they are not very friendly at the Chateau xxx, especially if you turn up late for a rendezvous..." I purchased all of these books on Amazon and they were all reasonably priced.

We have cycled in the Right Bank/Dordogne, the Loire and Burgundy and have found that some of our best wine experiences have been in small wine stores and wine bars or smaller, chef-focused restaurants where they really understand the local wine and are happy to share with interested tourists like us.

Posted by
32913 posts

you can edit your original post and remove the offending symbol and your OP will go back to normal

Posted by
5706 posts

Great tips KAS, I will look for those books! Thank you and fixed, Nigel. I'm scrambling to get this trip planned in a shorter time frame than what I'm used to.