I’m going to be visiting the Bordeaux region in April and have a couple of questions. First looking for lodging recommendations. Second trying to decide between hiring a guide to visit some wineries or rent a car and do our own thing? Any guide recommendations would be greatly appreciated. We thought about renting a car and visit the Saint-Emilion area for a day trip. Would love any suggestions.
Thanks in advance
Rick
Hi Rick! April is a great time to go to Bordeaux. We have used Rustic Vines (https://rusticvinestours.com/) tours a number of times with great success. But, it is just as easy to plan a day trip on your own especially if you have a car. St. Émilion is easy to access via train and a short, flat 20 min walk to the lower town entrance. It is a beautiful town and, in my opinion, worthy of a visit even if you are not there for wine. There are a few wineries in the town (or walking distance just outside). A couple of my favorites are Château Guadet (https://www.chateauguadet.fr/en) or Château Cadet-Bon (https://www.cadet-bon.com/). There are also a few wineries within the city limits of Bordeaux that are extrodinary. Château Pape Clément is one and is easily reached by Tram. Another great resource for all the happenings in and around Bordeaux is Lost in Bordeaux (https://www.lostinbordeaux.com/). On this blog you will find current activities and events in and around the Bordeaux area (not just info on Wine.) Also, the Médoc will have it's annual Portes Ouvertes the 5/6 April which is a great way to visit wineries that aren't often open or can be difficult to access.
I will leave the lodging recommendations to others. I hope you have a fantastic visit in this wonderful little corner of the world.
Rick,
Just a caveat, if driving and tasting, be aware that the French are very strict about alcohol level in the bloodstream when driving. If I remember correctly, it is stricter than any state I can think of here in the US. Going on a tour, or by public transport is a good idea. Also, unlike say, Napa Valley in California, many wineries do not accommodate walk-ups for tastings, although I think that has been a little easier of late. Just do you research about that ahead of time to avoid disappointment in case you are interested in a particular winery.
We did two small group tours while we were in Bordeaux. Both were half days, but we did one in the morning and one in the afternoon giving us a full day of tasting.
The company we used was Olala Bordeaux.
https://www.olalabordeaux.com/en/type/trip/
We did the Margaux region in the morning, returned to Bordeaux for an included lunch, then continued on to St. Emilion. Both were less than eight people and it was really well organised.
Excellent wine tasting can also be done at the Bar a Vin in the town itself.
Hi Rick,
I believe I can be of some help here. If you are visiting in April, make sure you avoid the En Primeur week. Many chateaux will not take any visitors that week.
Make your accommodation reservations based on areas of Bordeaux you want to visit. If you want to visit wineries on the left and right bank, stay in the city of Bordeaux. If you are only interested in one bank of the river, than stay on that bank.
I would recommend planning your own trip and not using a guide. France is not a third world country and English is widely spoken in the Bordeaux region. Make sure to book well in advance. Guides are quite expensive and not worth the cost in my opinion.
At the wineries, you will only be given tasting samples. You will always be provided with a spittoon. Nobody will expect you to drink everything.
This website is extremely helpful for planning Bordeaux visits: https://sauvistication.com/planning-chateaux-visits/
There are hotel recommendations on the site as well.
Safe Travels
I did a long trip to Bordeaux this year and can hopefully answer your questions, and respond to some of the other comments. For lodging recommendations, I would have to know what part of Bordeaux you are looking to base.
As far as a guide is concerned, I would compare it to buying a first class plane ticket. If you have the money go for it, but it is a luxury, not a necessity. Saint-Emilion and many of the wineries nearby are accessible by train. I would recommend that you visit the Premier Grand Cru Classe Wineries, some good visits are: Beausejour Becot, Troplong Mondot, Canon La Gaffeliere, and Valandraud.
You are not supposed to drink most of the samples at the wineries. The expectation is that you will spit most of it out. Unless you misbehave, I would worry about getting a breathalyzer.
The best resource to use is a website called The Wine Cellar Insider. Sauvistication is ok, but more geared towards travel and not as detailed. There are two websites you need to avoid, Bordeaux Travel Guide and Lost in Bordeaux. Both websites are setup to make a buck off you and are loaded with ads, affiliates, etc. They are in an affiliate program with Rue Des Vignerons and are directing you to wineries which will pay them a commission. Many of them are not good wineries.
I thought of a few more things to share and offer a lodging suggestion. Full disclosure, since we live in Bordeaux part time, the lodging rec is from friends who's opinions I trust but the hotel is Hotel Konti, right in the heart of Gambetta and walkable to all the major sites. Our friends loved it's boutique vibe.
Judy offers some sage advice when it comes to the wineries. Book in advance, take public transport or have a designated driver. While you many not see many police or Gendarmes on the road, they can be there and they are very strict about drinking and driving. Also keep in mind that there are speed cameras everywhere on the major roads, not just highways. You won't see too many police or Gendarmes but there are always the pesky cameras so watch your speed!
Speaking of wineries, there are always a limited number who offer drop-in visitors on a given day. So if you'd prefer some flexibility, you can find out which wineries are open to drop in visitors at the tourist office(s). There are hundreds of wineries in the greater Bordeaux area with many of them making fantastic wine that you are sure to enjoy your wine visit whereever you choose.
And finally, restaurants. Much like the wineries, you will need to make reservations even for lunch (and lunch is usually the big meal of the day.) In April it may be possible to drop in (and I've done so with success) it might make more sense if you are tight on time and only have a few days to visit to secure a reservation. Often restaurants are closed on Mondays so keep that in mind (except the more touristy restaurants.)
If you'd like any more specific recommendations on restaurants, activities or wineries I'd be happy to offer suggestions.
Enjoy your vacation!
You are not supposed to drink most of the samples at the wineries.
That's not consistent with any winery visit I've ever made, and I've made a lot. It's why I rely on someone else, like the tour bus driver, to transport me. The idea that one is supposed to spit out wine rather than drink it makes sense for sommeliers and winemakers who need to taste many, many wines in the course of a day. But not for tourists.
No one has yet mentioned visiting the Cité du Vin and the Musée du Vin et du Négoce (Negotiants' Museum). Both are IMO obligatory for wine lovers visiting Bordeaux. Very different experiences, but both are very informative and delightful.
One other note: La Maison du Vins St-Emilion is a wine store worth checking out. They have a number of wines available to taste from a Tastevin, which few such shops offer. Their staff are knowledgeable and their prices very fair in my experience.
Thank you everyone for the great information