We'll be in champagne country for a few days near Reims the end of August then head to Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy to experience Burgundy wines. We hoped to pass through quaint villages along the canals and maybe stop in Chablis for lunch, Semur en Auxois, Flavigny -sur-Ozerain, etc. yet this route would take more than 5 hours not counting the time for the stops. Any more direct route that would still allow a few (3) stops in quaint Burgundian villages? We don't want to just see Dijon and Beaune we wanted to experience the kind of villages Steve Smith and Rick talk about yet still make good time time to Gevrey-Chambertin. Another option is to go all major auto routes and get there in about 3 1/2 hrs. and just enjoy the villages near our destination. Any Burgundian wine affectionados who have suggestions on villages, routes, vineyards, restaurants, etc. and can help us experience this part of France at its finest?
Posted by
IJzendijke, The Netherlands
2087 posts
My opinion: Leaving the freeway for visiting quaint villages and really enjoy them is very time consuming and for that I think it is best to drive first directly to Dijon and Beaune. If tasting wine is the main reason to visit the area I think best is to settle down first, get used to the local rhythm, relax and enjoy because that is were the wines are made for..... Likely your host can recommend good places for wine tasting, talking about it and so on, so make room for that experience.
Additionaly you can visit nice places nearby like Autun, Le Rochepot, Châteauneuf etc.
Posted by
Charm City USA
183 posts
From my notes of last fall:
In Dijon, the tour of the Tour is very good. Operated by the tourism office. There are scheduled times each day and you should get a ticket ahead. Good meals here at Hotel de la Porte Guilliame (totally old school. Order snails.) Also L'escargot, which doesn't look like much but the kitchen knows what it is about (a swoon-worthy Tarte l'Epoisses) .
We had an outstanding tasting experience at Ch de la Tour (right next door to the Clos De Vougeot museum). We rented bikes and cycled from Dijon to Beaune and back, tasting our way north.
I prefer Dijon to Beaune as a town, although the Hotel Dieu is a world class site. Ma Cuisine is well known by Brits and Americans--it really is good and they had a fairly epic wine list. We also enjoyed Le P'tit Paradis.
Mercurey has a cave operation in the center of town now that is very well stocked and staffed. A good place to taste and buy bottles from small producers. In many places it's really hit or miss to find anyone who can serve shoppers at the wineries--the operations are mostly quite small and they are busy farming.
In Meursault, Domaine Javillier runs a cozy tasting space for their excellent wines.
Saint-Aubin also has a communal tasting room we visited.
Flavigny is a terrific stop. If you go that way, try to time it to have lunch at La Grange--cafeteria style, delicious food. And you sit at long tables with all the locals. It's a hoot. Very pretty village. I love Avallon too. Excellent Saturday market there. Had an outstanding dinner at Hotel de Moulin Ruats just outside town.
Enjoy! It's a wonderful part of the world.
Posted by
Birmingham AL
346 posts
We used a private wine guide for a full day tour in Burgundy last summer and it was probably the best money we spent on that trip. We were staying in a gite owned by and in the middle of Domain Francois Buffet in Volnay. Tiny, peaceful village near Beaune. I would suggest looking up some private wine tours to get some ideas where to go. We had private tastings in 3 or 4 domains. Our guy is Max Renau. Google max burgundy wine tours.
Posted by
Tel Aviv
15784 posts
I like Wil's advice. I presume you plan to spend several days in Gevrey-Chambertin.
When you leave the freeway, you may encounter slow-moving vehicles - the wheat fields in Burgundy seemed to be more extensive than the vineyards and August may well be harvest time. That's okay on a day trip, not so much when you're nearing the end of a long day and want to get settled in your new digs.
I based in Avallon for 4 days. In the end, I did little wine-tasting since I was driving solo, but I loved exploring the towns and villages, a couple chateaux (Vauban's was very interesting as well as beautiful), and Fontenay Abbey. Even the smallest, Noyer, had a great TI with a self-guided walking tour of the village and brochures for all the sights in the area. I ended up skipping Dijon and spending only 1/2 day in Beaune.
Posted by
L'Occitanie, France
10625 posts
The reason you saw wheat fields, Chani, is because Avallon isn't in the famous wine area; only Chablis is close by. You were further north. Indeed, northern Burgundy has mainly very small yield, local, unknown wines, some regenerated in the 1970s for limited commercial use. In fact, sourrounding Chablis, you'l find wheat fields, though Chablis did get its appelation extended to include many more hectars of vines a few years ago.
To the OP. you have a contradiction of time vs sightseeing. Chablis is cute but out of the way for you. If you are a lover of Chablis and want to taste the top crus, the area is set up for it. Semur is lovely. Many people are disappointed by Flavigny.
Posted by
California
107 posts
Just returned from Burgandy. There is one place I would recommend, Chateau Vaulx in St. julien, near Charolles village. Marty is the owner and we wished our stay was longer than two nights. We drove over 400 miles in the countryside and loved it. Lyon was a stop, big city, preferred the villages. Good travels.
And at this time, I thank all the suggestions, I received from the forum. We had a great trip and used a lot of my fellow traveler's advise. The above was from Jane on the forum.