We are staying right by Luxembourg Gardens - the corner of the garden that is closest to the Seine (closest Metro station is Odeon). I'm looking for recommendations on authentic boulangeries in the area where we can get breakfast pastries and breads. Haven't come across anything super high quality yet when we've been walking around (or anything akin to what we've found previously in Le Marais). Thank you in advance!
Are you looking for a good boulangerie that locals would use, or an Instagram favourite?
You can't judge a boulangerie by appearance
One that locals would use. Haven’t found anything like that yet
I just finished reading the book "The French Ingredient" by Jane Bertch who is the owner of "La Cuisine Paris" and in the book she speaks highly of Stohrer although it isn't right near you. Poilâne makes among the best breads in the world and they have a shop at 8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris. They also sell pastries although not as many as a standard pattisserie.
BTW "La Cuisine Paris" has food walking tours in case you're interested.
Use Google Maps and center the view on the desired location (near the Odeon metro station).
Then type “boulangerie” in the search box.
I just did it; I randomly click on one of the bakeries “La Parisienne”,
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Dmt7KMGxxSYqoVYRA
I look at the reviews. A large majority is in French. I conclude that it is used by the locals.
But as I am suspicious, I do the same thing on Trip Advisor. This bakery is listed there.
So I select the reviews and filter "all languages" Ouch! I realize that out of 145 reviews, only 25 are in French....
Maybe I'll look elsewhere... :))
Your turn!
Maison Mulot on Rue de Seine was a lovely place we just happened upon in April after strolling through the Gardens.
Mulot is excellent. A bit further west of Luxembourg is La Parissiene on Rue Madame which is worth the walk. Eric Kayser on Rue Mazarine, north of Blvd St Germain. A further walk mid morning is Bread and Roses also on Rue Madame and Rue Fleurus. We have stayed in this area several times over many years and purchased a variety of items from each place.
PS Locals line up throughout the day for La Parissiene.
https://www.google.com/maps/search/Boulangerie/@48.8498951,2.3385253,16z?authuser=0
Move the map ever so slightly and click on "search this area"
So I select the reviews and filter "all languages" Ouch! I realize that out of 145 reviews, only 25 are in French....
Maybe I'll look elsewhere... :))
But I don't think most locals are going on TripAdvisor to write a review of their favorite local bakery. I know I don't.
It's true Kim, after sending my message I told myself that I should have clarified this point.
When it comes to searching for reviews on the internet, the proportion of local reviews is much higher on Google.
But that's another topic...
Thank you all!! We tried Maison Mulot this morning and will try to get to one or two of the others. Really appreciate these recommendations!
I would just walk around until I saw a place that looked nice to me and try it. What’s to lose? I would suppose that if you are in Paris you would have “authentic” all around. Your search for super high quality is entirely subjective. And suggestions here or online are also subjective.
I'm with treemoss. Our French family members from various locations in France have pretty much always said that the best baguettes come from Paris, even though France is full of excellent bakeries and patisseries. We (the French family) have had lots of discussions about the reasons....the water, the humidity in the air of Paris, the bricks used to construct the ovens.... It is a typically French after-dinner type discussion, and taken very seriously! What a pleasant way to enjoy our digestifs!
My more limited experience is that you don't have to go to a "name" bakery for a great baguette. I haven't come across an "unauthentic" boulangerie to date (one which gets their unbaked loaves from a wholesaler), although I suppose they exist. Just see what looks good to you as you explore a street or neighborhood. You won't get a bad baguette (or croissant), at least in my experience.
Bon appetit!
From following folks such as Paris based pastry chef David Lebovitz (Diana, his website offers suggestions as well) not all choices are created equal. I indulge more when I travel compared to at home. Therefore I do want to have something that is a cut above, if possible. I won’t go great distances out of my way but I definitely do a bit of research. I apply the same principles to chocolate and other specialty items. There are differences in quality. Many folks don’t care; some do.
Uumm, Judy, I don't know how to say this to you, but I've had some lousy baguettes here in France. LOL. Even from some real bakeries. For a few years there was a baker in my in-law's village who left a lot to be desired. Luckily, he sold to talented bakers. And I've seen plenty of factory re-bake stores. Supermarket bread is re-baked.
But yes, many of our corner bakeries are excellent, but I don't agree that you get the best bread in Paris. We have many great bakeries in Occitanie. But more important is how soon you get your loaves after they come out of the oven. My husband looks to see what has just finished cooling off, whether a festive or campanette or other, and buys the freshest daily. If we are in a neighborhood with a celebrity bakery, I'll always buy something to take home to see why it's so highly esteemed.
OTOH, we don't eat pastries or croissants unless we company or are eating a hotel breakfast.
Veteran traveler has it right, as does Bets, I'm sure. It is almost impossible to find a decent French baguette here. Most of what are called baguettes don't even come close to what there is in France. Alas, I undoubtedly have had many, many fewer baguettes than Bets (see the jealousy here), so I just may not have come across a bad one yet. Guess I'll have to return to France to search for a bad baguette. (As good an excuse for the trip as any!) Maybe next year!
Boulangeries are for bread, not necessarily pastries. For the best baguette in this area, I have 3 recommendations and you must ask for a baguette tradition (1.30€):
la Parisienne, 27 rue Vaugirard. Winner of the ¨Best Baguette of Paris" a few years ago. I'll rate it overall amazing, but slightly below the next two on the list, and there are other la Parisienne locations.
Top baguette - not really the name, but that is the name on google maps at 81 rue de Rennes. I have asked them what their name really is, it is not printed anywhere, but I have never understood what they are saying. Their tradition is consistently as good as, if not better than la Parisienne. It's about as traditional as it gets with a very small bakery producing some of the best baked goods in the city. They are closed until the 26th.
Bakery Thévenin Saint Placide - specifically at 5 rue Notre Dame des Champs. I really find it hard to like this place, I find the interior finish-out somewhat tacky, fake moldings in white plastic. It does not have the typical trappings of a boulangerie, but wow, their tradition is simply the best; la mie is light and fluffy, la croûte as thin and as hard as an egg shell. A baguette does not get any better.
Another place you should know about is Bread & Roses at 62 rue Madame. Fabulous bread and they have a "tea room" for enjoying their goods at a table.
One trick is look for the lines that look like locals. We found one very close to our apartment in the seventh that was amazing
after our second or third visit, we realized it had all kinds of awards. But we got there originally, just by noticing that every time we went by there was a long line of locals getting food.
No mention of ‘influencers’ here. David Lebovitz certainly isn’t one given he is a trained pastry chef, author of several food related books and has lived in Paris for 20+ years. His recommendations are first rate and more reliable than google or TA. The challenges with suggestions from others (strangers) is one never knows if they know quality or not.
Tocard, thank you for referencing 2 of my suggestions; we have had excellent experiences with both.
I love that France is a country that takes food seriously.
If anyone is interested, here are the winners of the best baguettes in 2024:
https://www.parisinsidersguide.com/paris-baguette.html
And the best croissants in 2024:
https://hipparis.com/its-all-about-the-croissants-where-to-find-the-best-croissants-in-paris/
Bon appétit!
Claire, I agree. In fact, I just spent some time looking through his website for recommendations for boulangeries, patisseries, and candy shops (hee hee) for my upcoming trip to Paris with my 2 grandkids. We will be staying near the Jardin du Luxembourg.
Diana, if you are interested, here is a link to his list. Keep in mind that this list is old, but he does try to update places as needed. Look for the ones that are in the 6th. https://www.davidlebovitz.com/paris-pastry-shops-chocolate-bakeries-patisseries-french-france
Eve, a few posts above this one, shared an informative website about the winners of the BEST baguette. That list of winners is valuable.
However, if you scroll down to the second photo, you'll see an example of the WORST baguette in Paris, the one to avoid. There are four baguettes in the photo. One has not been baked enough, the side of the loaf is white, and the top is flat and sinking. You can be sure the mie (inside part) is compressed.
How did it happen? The baker put the baguettes too close to each other on the baking sheet. Not enough air circulated around it to bake correctly. Don't waste you precious calorie count or meal slot on a baguette like this. Yes, not all bakers in France do a great job, but yes, it's still better than what you can find many other places...except this sorry example. Bon appetit
I am happy to see that the boulangerie closest to my hotel showed up as 7th this year and 3rd last year for croissants--Boulangerie Moderne Rabineau. I predict some delicious breakfasts in my future!
Mardee, glad to hear you are finding some helpful options on DL’s website (I can vouch for several on the list:). I subscribe to his Substack newsletter where he offers up more suggestions. The #1 baguette on the list linked in this thread is a boulangerie he has been mentioning for a few years as they have some unique breads over and above the award winning baguette. The #9 winner on the list is the same building as the one I mentioned here, La Parisienne so I’m not sure if they are the same owners or just changed the name but they won a few years ago. BTW the store next to them is Marin Montagut and he has a bit of a profile for artistic and lovely Paris themed items that could be souvenirs but are of a high quality. One of his cups is my tea cup that I use regularly.
I will be there in November in a hotel on Rue Madame and we have enjoyed, on our past few visits, staying near the Jardin Luxembourg, south of Blvd St Germain as it is close to everything but a bit quieter. Enjoy your visit with the grandkids!
Claire, I subscribe to his Substack newsletter, too, and love reading his stuff. I have gotten so many recipes from there and also his website, plus I have enjoyed many recipes from The Perfect Scoop, which I own. :-) Thank you for the tips about his listings, adn also the mention of Marin Montagut! That sounds wonderful and I will definitely visit there. In fact, I just put it in Wanderlog so I won't forget. Enjoy your November trip!
Thanks Mardee, I am very excited as Covid ruined a week of my stay in Paris last year so this is my ‘do-over’. I hope you find a little souvenir at M. Montagut but it’s also fun to just browse there.