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Bayeux vs Caen

Good morning everyone. It's a beautiful day in Northern California but I am of course dreaming of ... France.

We are planning a trip for October. Normandy/Brittany for the first chunk, then to Paris (we have been to the latter many times). Initially we were to be based in Rouen for the first half of the Normandy/Brittany portion - but for various reasons we are now looking at either Bayeux or Caen. (I have wrung my hands plenty over that one; but we are now set on either Bayeux or Caen.)

Keeping in mind that these things are highly subjective, I would love to hear thoughts on Bayeux vs Caen. We will arrive via train from Paris, then spend a day poking around whichever town we end up in. We will then rent a car (booked in advance, of course) to explore the region. I have looked up travel times so I know what we're getting into. But over the course of a couple days or so we want to see Etretat, Honfleur, Le Havre, a couple others.

I have read up a bit on car rentals in both places, and it looks like Caen is much easier. HOWEVER they are close enough that even if we choose Bayeux we can take a short train ride back to Caen to grab the car. (Or will this be more of a hassle than I realize?)

So I guess I'm hoping for some general thoughts on one town vs the other. Including how easy it will be to deal with the rental car and driving in and out of the town to explore the region.

Beyond that, I would also of course love any specific recommendations on things to do, can't-miss villages, restaurants, etc., etc. (Note: I am already aware that the Bayeux Tapestry will not be around.)

After Bayeux/Caen we will drive to Dinan and spend another couple days or so. Saint-Malo, Mont Saint-Michel, etc. Then return the car in Rennes or Caen, and take the train to Paris.

Needless to say we are very excited! We are seasoned travelers and have been to other parts of France (+ Paris many times). But this will be our first trek to Normandy/Brittany.

Any thoughts would be most appreciated! Thanks

--Ben P., Oakland, CA

Posted by
752 posts

Bayeux is much smaller but a much more beautiful town, as it was spared significant World War II damage whereas Caen was almost totally destroyed and rebuilt with nondescript modern buildings. The British (actually Commonwealth) war cemetery in Bayeux is well worth a visit even if you see other D Day sites such as the beaches and the American cemetery on your trip. The British cemeteries tend to be more numerous but smaller than the American ones, and they are maintained perfectly (as are the American ones) and are very poignant, especially the individual inscriptions that the British next of kin were allowed to have engraved on the headstones.

Posted by
10225 posts

We took the train to Caen, rented a car there, and then drove to Bayeux for our stay. I enjoyed Bayeux and how walkable it was. I didn’t stay in Caen so I really can’t compare in that respect.

The rental car agencies share space across the street from the train station in Caen which makes pick up or drop off fairly convenient. We booked our car through Costco Travel.

Posted by
1828 posts

Maybe reconsider taking the train to Rouen, explore lovely Rouen overnight; then rent a car, making it convenient to explore Honfluer, the Abbey's, the cider route and it's villages; making your way to Bayeux.

Or you can take the train to Caen where you can rent a car. It's a short drive to Bayeux where you should definitely stay. Bayeux is charm, charm and more charm! Since you are doing Brittany after, I'd plan to return the car in Rennes and take the train back to Paris (it goes to the Montparnasse station.) We found the fee to pick up and drop off the rental car within France but at different locations to be nominal.

We did this trip two years ago. Such a wonderful time! Enjoy

Posted by
7 posts

Thanks for the replies so far! Most appreciated. One small wrinkle that I should have mentioned is that we are arriving via train on a Sunday. So picking up the car the same day we arrive will not be possible as it seems rental places are closed Sundays.

Posted by
1828 posts

Ben P. the Rennes train station rental hours on Sunday for Enterprise are 1pm-7pm. I think Sixt is 10-5pm. Check out the agencies and confirm the hours on their websites. They have all the major agencies there. Just make sure your search is for the train station not the Rennes airport. Nice big modern station, so your could do your trip in reverse (starting there; short drive to MSM) which is how our trip went. Note to future selves; Sunday is not ideal for renting cars in France as we found out ourselves!

Also, make sure your accommodation in Bayeux has parking available. It's really easy to drive in the Normandy/Brittany regions.

Posted by
1592 posts

Good advice so far. I'll just add to the chorus for Bayeux over Caen. IDK what you are looking for, but if it is proximity to the D-day sites, a quaint Norman village (that wasn't destroyed in WWII), a wonderful cathedral or just a walkable downtown with a good variety of restaurants, Bayeux is hands down preferable to Caen. The only thing Caen has over Bayeux IMHO is a variety of car rental offices. But as you say, it is easy to take a train or car between the two to pick up or drop off your car. Rouen and Rennes are also wonderful towns that beat Caen in my view, but they are a bit farther from the Bayeux area. I have picked up and/or dropped off cars in Bayeux, Caen, Cherbourg and Rennes. Watch the rental car office hours carefully including long lunch breaks. You can usually drop off a car after hours, but make sure you document its condition if so.

Posted by
64 posts

As you’ve seen from the replies above, definitely stay in Bayeux, not in Caen. The only thing you should do in Caen other than rent your car is visit the Mémorial de Caen, which is extraordinary and IMO a must before visiting any D-Day sites. Eat at La Rapière (Michelin Bib Gourmand winner, top meal of our lives) in Bayeux.

Bayeux, Dinan and Saint-Malo are all charming and lovely in different ways. Enjoy!