Hi, I’ve gotten so much insight from the France forum. I am severely immunocompromised and planning to travel to France end of March/beginning of April for 2 weeks with my teenager. I always mask indoors but will need to be unmasked of course to eat. Any thoughts from you seasoned travelers on how to avoid crowds at restaurants? I am thinking we can arrange our day so that we go to dinner early, when restaurants open. I’d welcome any other input.
When we travel, we try to eat outdoors as much as possible, but when it's not, we often do takeout. Your strategy might be helpful, also, but be aware that if you sit down for table service in France, you can expect to be there for a long time. The philosophy is to linger and enjoy your meals, and the servers will act accordingly.
Have you thought about a wearable, personal air filtration device? I don't know how good they are, but it might be worthwhile, in your situation.
Restaurants start dinner at 7 or 7:30 and are usually full at 8 or so and they tend to be very crowded. If you have a serious issue, then your only really good option during this period when terrace dining is unlikely, is to have an apartment and eat dinner there -- whether cooked from the excellent foods available in the market or take out. There is a lot of good take out food in Paris and some restaurant do it as well. There is really no time when crowds are thin in restaurants. You might find eating in the afternoon between lunch and dinner hours in places with continuous service would be less crowded. Tables tend to be closer together in France than the US and restaurants are crowded.
I agree with BB....eat outdoors or do takaway.
Most restaurants in France don't "open early" except those catering to tourists. Cafe's, on the other hand, are open all day. You can get proper meals at them. And most have outdoor seating. (Expect the outdoor seating to be busy as people will stop and linger over a coffee while watching the crowd go by.)
Look for propane heaters and you might be able to sit away from the
madding crowd under a nice heat lamp.
In France it is now prohibited to heat or air condition the terraces of cafes, bars and restaurants, or any outdoor public space.
Definitely go at 7 for meals. I've got an early stomach and I just cannot adapt to a later dining culture, lol. There are also cafes that advertise they have "service continu" which means they are open all day. I look for these as well.
If you give us the area where you are staying some forum members might have suggestions for restaurants that might not be busy early on.
Let us know how things work out for you! I am sure there are others on the forum who are in your immunocompromised situation.
I haven't been to France since COVID. In northern Europe I encountered many absolutely packed breakfast rooms in hotels in 2022. A few were in the basement, with low ceilings. Somehow, I didn't get COVID, but I felt I was risking it every day. I always opt out of hotel breakfasts when doing so saves money, but sometimes the cost of breakfast is embedded in the hotel rate, and I'm too cheap to skip a paid-for meal!
Eating at a restaurant early, as in right when it opens, will be your best option for limiting exposure to crowds inside. Having a reservation will help, ensuring that the place is expecting you, and there’ll be no wait to get dinner started before many more diners arrive.
Remember that outdoor dining is essentially the Smoking Section - and there’ll likely be plenty of people lighting up.
France is a pretty large country. I wonder where in France you're planning to visit.
Thanks for the input. Our plan is to spend two weeks in France, Paris > Loire Valley > Lyon > Nice. This is helpful. We’ll have to try out different options. I’ll loop back and post what I learn.
I’ve had some very nice salad from grocery stores or delis in France. You might want to try to limit your number of restaurant experiences, if needed.
A related comment - if you’re traveling by train, I would buy the first class seats. You will have less people in the train car, and other people aren’t walking through the car if you can reserve the first one.
This past summer in Paris at dinner I would sit close to the front or was shown a table close the front or outside, good and effective cross ventilation with the front entrance open and windows too. Time-wise I had dinner from 7:30 to 9.