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April France trip report in several parts

My story is too long to post at one time, so I'll post it by locations (Loire, Burgundy, Alsace and Paris).

France trip report April 2026

Loire Valley

Well, the time finally arrived for our long awaited trip to France. I’d wanted to go back to France since 1993 (I visited Paris for two weeks staying with friends who lived there for three years. My husband stayed home with our two then toddlers). Now was the time!

Planning–

As usual it took me months to fully plan the trip. Many many posts on travel forums and many lovely people answered those posts and gave helpful and insightful info. I couldn’t have done it as well without that help!

I am an overachiever at planning!! We also like to pack in a lot when we travel!! I plan to the n’th degree and always have a Plan B. Most of the time my plans work out, sometimes they don’t and sometimes surprises pop up (both good and not so good). Detailed planning gives me the perceived feeling of “control”. It’s not for everyone, but it works for me. My husband, on the other hand, simply goes along for the ride. He enjoys our trips, but really does not plan at all. He says I love to plan and he hates to plan, so it works :)

We rented a car for the first 12 nights and used public transportation in Paris for the last three nights. We rode two long distance trains (Montparnasse-St. Pierre des Corps and Colmar-Paris). We stayed in two B&B’s, one Airbnb and one religious guest house on our journey. I made reservations at all of the restaurants we went to. We pre-reserved tickets where we could. We used the Passion Monuments pass in Paris. We were celebrating my husband’s birthday and our wedding anniversary along the trip too.

I tried to highlight the less well known things we did, saw or ate and just mention the more prominent busy places we saw.

We had some hiccups on the trip. The first day being by far the worst! Please read on to see what a fiasco our first travel day was, but how wonderful the trip turned out.

Starting at the beginning-

TUESDAY–

The day started out great. We had a 6:30 pm nonstop flight CVG-CDG. We parked our car off site of the airport, rode the shuttle to the airport and arrived at CVG around 3:30. We breezed through security with TSA pre-check, got to our gate, sat down and about 4:00 we heard an announcement that our flight was delayed until 9:10 pm due to a flight officer calling in sick and a replacement being flown in from Atlanta :(

Well, that meant right off the bat we had to go to Plan B as we would probably miss our train from CDG-SPDC. So, not a great start, but it got worse.

WEDNESDAY–

Our flight was uneventful and we arrived at CDG at 10:30 am instead of 8:30 am as scheduled.

Next snafu–EES. It was a nightmare. Everyone backed up, all the auto gates were red X’d and we had long lines to go through manual passport control. All in all it took 1 hour and 10 minutes to get through EES. Missed our pre-purchased (70 euros/2 persons) 11:17 am train CDG-SPDC. We were getting frazzled by now, BUT it continued to go downhill.

Plan B went into effect–taxi (65 euros) from CDG–Montparnasse to catch one of the many trains to SPDC to pick up our car rental by 6 pm closing time. But, yes, it got worse.

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PART 2
The 45 minute expected time to go CDG-Montparnasse by taxi turned into 90 minutes. Our taxi driver was a gem and tried his best to get us there as quickly as possible! It was 1:50 pm and now we were in danger of missing the last train (2:10 pm) that arrived before 6 pm from Montparnasse-SPDC . We RAN through the train station with baggage (enough to hold several bottles of wine, cheese and souvenirs on the way back home plus clothes) to get to the ticket station. A lovely employee QUICKLY bought our (200 Euros/2 person) tickets and we RAN to the train. Boarded at 2:05 pm, but we were on now and going to SPDC arriving at 4:00 pm to get our car rental before 6 pm.

NOPE, downhill again. The train was delayed 15 minutes, no big deal (or was it?). More French announcements kept coming. A nice young man, Guillaume, sitting across from us, relayed what the announcements were. Our train was going to be delayed by 3 hours and arriving at SPDC at 7 pm (car rental closed at 6 pm) now.

No car rental meant no way to get to the B&B 25 minutes away from SPDC. No B&B the first night = where do we stay near SPDC gare? Our phones wouldn’t call out for some unknown reason, how do we contact our B&B hosts? We’ve also now lost 335 euros (70 pre-bought train tics, 65 on taxi CDG-Montparnasse and 200 on our newly purchased tics CDG-SPDC)! We travel on a very tight budget too!

OMG, what do we do now??? An angel of a Frenchman, Cedric, was sitting across the aisle from us, spoke great English and was very travel savvy. During our train wait time he helped us decide on a convoluted new plan. (Of course OUR phones/Ipad had no connection in the train station for some reason, but our French angel’s did!).

He called our B&B hosts, looked up train timetables, car rental options, called the car rental office, taxi options, etc. More snafus in that tangled web of plans, of course. Nothing was going right and I was holding back tears and screams of frustration. Even my even keeled husband was frantic.

To make this long story a bit shorter-

Our train ended up getting to SPDC at 6:00 pm on the dot. We RAN to the Avis car rental and THEY WERE STILL OPEN and willing to get our car. After some paper work and correcting the price to match our quote, we were upgraded to an almost new Toyota Yaris AUTOMATIC. We finally caught a break, thank goodness.

Off to our B&B in Blere- La Pomelie (https://www.lapomelie.com/)

NOPE, our rental was parked outside in a parking lot with a gate. We inserted a prepaid card (from Avis) and couldn’t get the gate up. Tried as many ways as we could, Google translate (on our now working phones), etc., with no luck. I finally saw a car dropping a lady off at the lot and I ran over and Google translated if she could help. Whatever she did, the gate went up and I yelled at my husband to “GO” before the gate went back down. I’m sure we looked like Laurel and Hardy (for those who know them)!

Whatever, we were now on our way to La Pomelie and a 7:30 pm dinner reservation there. The owner, Valerie, was a professional pastry chef! We arrived at 7:25 pm, beyond frazzled and got a big welcoming hug from Valerie and her husband, Philippe.

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PART 3

We had a magnificent dinner with 3 other guests.

Menu:
Aperitif of sparkling Chenin Blanc
A trio of entrees (guacamole mousse, quail egg salad and an onion tart)
Pumpkin soup with two shrimp and spicy croutons
Veal with roasted veggies
4 cheeses (St. Maure Touraine goat cheese, Morbier, Carre d’Aurillac, and a creamy camembert) with homemade jams and breads
Paris brest for dessert
A beautiful Touraine red wine with the meal

It was heaven on earth for two exhausted, frazzled travelers! The conversation was a delightful mix of lots of French, a little English and lots of Google translations plus we laughed and let off steam. The meal was Michelin quality to us and the warm welcome by Valerie, Philippe and the other guests made us feel very much at home.

We were home for 4 nights at the gorgeous B&B. Our room was perfect and we slept well. Thank goodness we arrived safely after an awful travel day. BUT, we were introduced to the kindness of strangers and the French in general, the adage of “what can go wrong does go wrong”, the thankfulness of good fortune and the blessings of arriving safely, at last, to our destination in the Loire Valley.

THURSDAY-

Up and at ‘em early and over to the main house for breakfast. Oh, what a treat Valerie’s “continental” breakfasts were! This morning we had:

Fresh squeezed O.J.
Fruit cup
Crepes with local honey
Yogurt
Chocolate chip croissants
Chouquettes
Breads
Coffee/tea/milk

Off to the 10:30 am Cadre Noir matinales (https://www.ifce.fr/en/cadre-noir/). It was fantastic! The horses were magnificent and the riders were amazing. We loved it!

Lunch was at the Caves of Marson in a troglodyte cave. (https://www.cavesdemarson.com/en/) It was fantastic. They seated us in a little candle lit cove. The meal was delightful as were the fouees.

Menu:
Cremant wine
Mushroom tart
Fouees with pure pork rillettes, salted butter, pickles, mogettes, chipouillette, salad, fresh goat cheese and honey
Fruit crumble with a birthday candle and song
Red Saumur wine

Full and satisfied we walked around and saw the quaint local church–we love to visit churches! Église Sainte Croix de Marson (https://monumentum.fr/monument-historique/pa00109249/rou-marson-eglise-de-marson).

We continued on our journey toward Saumur, walked around Saumur, took photos of the castle and enjoyed our drive back to La Pomelie. The grounds of La Pomelie were so lushly landscaped. It was a country setting and had a big pond across the road where we saw two beavers gliding along in the water. What a fantastic first day.

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PART 4

The 45 minute expected time to go CDG-Montparnasse by taxi turned into 90 minutes. Our taxi driver was a gem and tried his best to get us there as quickly as possible! It was 1:50 pm and now we were in danger of missing the last train (2:10 pm) that arrived before 6 pm from Montparnasse-SPDC . We RAN through the train station with baggage (enough to hold several bottles of wine, cheese and souvenirs on the way back home plus clothes) to get to the ticket station. A lovely employee QUICKLY bought our (200 Euros/2 person) tickets and we RAN to the train. Boarded at 2:05 pm, but we were on now and going to SPDC arriving at 4:00 pm to get our car rental before 6 pm.

NOPE, downhill again. The train was delayed 15 minutes, no big deal (or was it?). More French announcements kept coming. A nice young man, Guillaume, sitting across from us, relayed what the announcements were. Our train was going to be delayed by 3 hours and arriving at SPDC at 7 pm (car rental closed at 6 pm) now.

No car rental meant no way to get to the B&B 25 minutes away from SPDC. No B&B the first night = where do we stay near SPDC gare? Our phones wouldn’t call out for some unknown reason, how do we contact our B&B hosts? We’ve also now lost 335 euros (70 pre-bought train tics, 65 on taxi CDG-Montparnasse and 200 on our newly purchased tics CDG-SPDC)! We travel on a very tight budget too!

OMG, what do we do now??? An angel of a Frenchman, Cedric, was sitting across the aisle from us, spoke great English and was very travel savvy. During our train wait time he helped us decide on a convoluted new plan. (Of course OUR phones/Ipad had no connection in the train station for some reason, but our French angel’s did!).

He called our B&B hosts, looked up train timetables, car rental options, called the car rental office, taxi options, etc. More snafus in that tangled web of plans, of course. Nothing was going right and I was holding back tears and screams of frustration. Even my even keeled husband was frantic.

To make this long story a bit shorter-

Our train ended up getting to SPDC at 6:00 pm on the dot. We RAN to the Avis car rental and THEY WERE STILL OPEN and willing to get our car. After some paper work and correcting the price to match our quote, we were upgraded to an almost new Toyota Yaris AUTOMATIC. We finally caught a break, thank goodness.

Off to our B&B in Blere- La Pomelie (https://www.lapomelie.com/)

NOPE, our rental was parked outside in a parking lot with a gate. We inserted a prepaid card (from Avis) and couldn’t get the gate up. Tried as many ways as we could, Google translate (on our now working phones), etc., with no luck. I finally saw a car dropping a lady off at the lot and I ran over and Google translated if she could help. Whatever she did, the gate went up and I yelled at my husband to “GO” before the gate went back down. I’m sure we looked like Laurel and Hardy (for those who know them)!

Whatever, we were now on our way to La Pomelie and a 7:30 pm dinner reservation there. The owner, Valerie, was a professional pastry chef! We arrived at 7:25 pm, beyond frazzled and got a big welcoming hug from Valerie and her husband, Philippe.

We had a magnificent dinner with 3 other guests.

Menu:
Aperitif of sparkling Chenin Blanc
A trio of entrees (guacamole mousse, quail egg salad and an onion tart)
Pumpkin soup with two shrimp and spicy croutons
Veal with roasted veggies
4 cheeses (St. Maure Touraine goat cheese, Morbier, Carre d’Aurillac, and a creamy camembert) with homemade jams and breads
Paris brest for dessert
A beautiful Touraine red wine with the meal

It was heaven on earth for two exhausted, frazzled travelers! The conversation was a delightful mix of lots of French, a little English and lots of Google translations plus we laughed and let off steam. The meal was Michelin quality to us and the warm welcome by Valerie, Philippe and the other guests made us feel very much at home.

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PART 5

We were home for 4 nights at the gorgeous B&B. Our room was perfect and we slept well. Thank goodness we arrived safely after an awful travel day. BUT, we were introduced to the kindness of strangers and the French in general, the adage of “what can go wrong does go wrong”, the thankfulness of good fortune and the blessings of arriving safely, at last, to our destination in the Loire Valley.

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PART 6

THURSDAY-

Up and at ‘em early and over to the main house for breakfast. Oh, what a treat Valerie’s “continental” breakfasts were! This morning we had:

Fresh squeezed O.J.
Fruit cup
Crepes with local honey
Yogurt
Chocolate chip croissants
Chouquettes
Breads
Coffee/tea/milk

Off to the 10:30 am Cadre Noir matinales (https://www.ifce.fr/en/cadre-noir/). It was fantastic! The horses were magnificent and the riders were amazing. We loved it!

Lunch was at the Caves of Marson in a troglodyte cave. (https://www.cavesdemarson.com/en/) It was fantastic. They seated us in a little candle lit cove. The meal was delightful as were the fouees.

Menu:
Cremant wine
Mushroom tart
Fouees with pure pork rillettes, salted butter, pickles, mogettes, chipouillette, salad, fresh goat cheese and honey
Fruit crumble with a birthday candle and song
Red Saumur wine

Full and satisfied we walked around and saw the quaint local church–we love to visit churches! Église Sainte Croix de Marson (https://monumentum.fr/monument-historique/pa00109249/rou-marson-eglise-de-marson).

We continued on our journey toward Saumur, walked around Saumur, took photos of the castle and enjoyed our drive back to La Pomelie. The grounds of La Pomelie were so lushly landscaped. It was a country setting and had a big pond across the road where we saw two beavers gliding along in the water. What a fantastic first day.