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April France trip report in several parts

My story is too long to post at one time, so I'll post it by locations (Loire, Burgundy, Alsace and Paris).

France trip report April 2026

Loire Valley

Well, the time finally arrived for our long awaited trip to France. I’d wanted to go back to France since 1993 (I visited Paris for two weeks staying with friends who lived there for three years. My husband stayed home with our two then toddlers). Now was the time!

Planning–

As usual it took me months to fully plan the trip. Many many posts on travel forums and many lovely people answered those posts and gave helpful and insightful info. I couldn’t have done it as well without that help!

I am an overachiever at planning!! We also like to pack in a lot when we travel!! I plan to the n’th degree and always have a Plan B. Most of the time my plans work out, sometimes they don’t and sometimes surprises pop up (both good and not so good). Detailed planning gives me the perceived feeling of “control”. It’s not for everyone, but it works for me. My husband, on the other hand, simply goes along for the ride. He enjoys our trips, but really does not plan at all. He says I love to plan and he hates to plan, so it works :)

We rented a car for the first 12 nights and used public transportation in Paris for the last three nights. We rode two long distance trains (Montparnasse-St. Pierre des Corps and Colmar-Paris). We stayed in two B&B’s, one Airbnb and one religious guest house on our journey. I made reservations at all of the restaurants we went to. We pre-reserved tickets where we could. We used the Passion Monuments pass in Paris. We were celebrating my husband’s birthday and our wedding anniversary along the trip too.

I tried to highlight the less well known things we did, saw or ate and just mention the more prominent busy places we saw.

We had some hiccups on the trip. The first day being by far the worst! Please read on to see what a fiasco our first travel day was, but how wonderful the trip turned out.

Starting at the beginning-

TUESDAY–

The day started out great. We had a 6:30 pm nonstop flight CVG-CDG. We parked our car off site of the airport, rode the shuttle to the airport and arrived at CVG around 3:30. We breezed through security with TSA pre-check, got to our gate, sat down and about 4:00 we heard an announcement that our flight was delayed until 9:10 pm due to a flight officer calling in sick and a replacement being flown in from Atlanta :(

Well, that meant right off the bat we had to go to Plan B as we would probably miss our train from CDG-SPDC. So, not a great start, but it got worse.

WEDNESDAY–

Our flight was uneventful and we arrived at CDG at 10:30 am instead of 8:30 am as scheduled.

Next snafu–EES. It was a nightmare. Everyone backed up, all the auto gates were red X’d and we had long lines to go through manual passport control. All in all it took 1 hour and 10 minutes to get through EES. Missed our pre-purchased (70 euros/2 persons) 11:17 am train CDG-SPDC. We were getting frazzled by now, BUT it continued to go downhill.

Plan B went into effect–taxi (65 euros) from CDG–Montparnasse to catch one of the many trains to SPDC to pick up our car rental by 6 pm closing time. But, yes, it got worse.

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PART 2
The 45 minute expected time to go CDG-Montparnasse by taxi turned into 90 minutes. Our taxi driver was a gem and tried his best to get us there as quickly as possible! It was 1:50 pm and now we were in danger of missing the last train (2:10 pm) that arrived before 6 pm from Montparnasse-SPDC . We RAN through the train station with baggage (enough to hold several bottles of wine, cheese and souvenirs on the way back home plus clothes) to get to the ticket station. A lovely employee QUICKLY bought our (200 Euros/2 person) tickets and we RAN to the train. Boarded at 2:05 pm, but we were on now and going to SPDC arriving at 4:00 pm to get our car rental before 6 pm.

NOPE, downhill again. The train was delayed 15 minutes, no big deal (or was it?). More French announcements kept coming. A nice young man, Guillaume, sitting across from us, relayed what the announcements were. Our train was going to be delayed by 3 hours and arriving at SPDC at 7 pm (car rental closed at 6 pm) now.

No car rental meant no way to get to the B&B 25 minutes away from SPDC. No B&B the first night = where do we stay near SPDC gare? Our phones wouldn’t call out for some unknown reason, how do we contact our B&B hosts? We’ve also now lost 335 euros (70 pre-bought train tics, 65 on taxi CDG-Montparnasse and 200 on our newly purchased tics CDG-SPDC)! We travel on a very tight budget too!

OMG, what do we do now??? An angel of a Frenchman, Cedric, was sitting across the aisle from us, spoke great English and was very travel savvy. During our train wait time he helped us decide on a convoluted new plan. (Of course OUR phones/Ipad had no connection in the train station for some reason, but our French angel’s did!).

He called our B&B hosts, looked up train timetables, car rental options, called the car rental office, taxi options, etc. More snafus in that tangled web of plans, of course. Nothing was going right and I was holding back tears and screams of frustration. Even my even keeled husband was frantic.

To make this long story a bit shorter-

Our train ended up getting to SPDC at 6:00 pm on the dot. We RAN to the Avis car rental and THEY WERE STILL OPEN and willing to get our car. After some paper work and correcting the price to match our quote, we were upgraded to an almost new Toyota Yaris AUTOMATIC. We finally caught a break, thank goodness.

Off to our B&B in Blere- La Pomelie (https://www.lapomelie.com/)

NOPE, our rental was parked outside in a parking lot with a gate. We inserted a prepaid card (from Avis) and couldn’t get the gate up. Tried as many ways as we could, Google translate (on our now working phones), etc., with no luck. I finally saw a car dropping a lady off at the lot and I ran over and Google translated if she could help. Whatever she did, the gate went up and I yelled at my husband to “GO” before the gate went back down. I’m sure we looked like Laurel and Hardy (for those who know them)!

Whatever, we were now on our way to La Pomelie and a 7:30 pm dinner reservation there. The owner, Valerie, was a professional pastry chef! We arrived at 7:25 pm, beyond frazzled and got a big welcoming hug from Valerie and her husband, Philippe.

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PART 3

We had a magnificent dinner with 3 other guests.

Menu:
Aperitif of sparkling Chenin Blanc
A trio of entrees (guacamole mousse, quail egg salad and an onion tart)
Pumpkin soup with two shrimp and spicy croutons
Veal with roasted veggies
4 cheeses (St. Maure Touraine goat cheese, Morbier, Carre d’Aurillac, and a creamy camembert) with homemade jams and breads
Paris brest for dessert
A beautiful Touraine red wine with the meal

It was heaven on earth for two exhausted, frazzled travelers! The conversation was a delightful mix of lots of French, a little English and lots of Google translations plus we laughed and let off steam. The meal was Michelin quality to us and the warm welcome by Valerie, Philippe and the other guests made us feel very much at home.

We were home for 4 nights at the gorgeous B&B. Our room was perfect and we slept well. Thank goodness we arrived safely after an awful travel day. BUT, we were introduced to the kindness of strangers and the French in general, the adage of “what can go wrong does go wrong”, the thankfulness of good fortune and the blessings of arriving safely, at last, to our destination in the Loire Valley.

THURSDAY-

Up and at ‘em early and over to the main house for breakfast. Oh, what a treat Valerie’s “continental” breakfasts were! This morning we had:

Fresh squeezed O.J.
Fruit cup
Crepes with local honey
Yogurt
Chocolate chip croissants
Chouquettes
Breads
Coffee/tea/milk

Off to the 10:30 am Cadre Noir matinales (https://www.ifce.fr/en/cadre-noir/). It was fantastic! The horses were magnificent and the riders were amazing. We loved it!

Lunch was at the Caves of Marson in a troglodyte cave. (https://www.cavesdemarson.com/en/) It was fantastic. They seated us in a little candle lit cove. The meal was delightful as were the fouees.

Menu:
Cremant wine
Mushroom tart
Fouees with pure pork rillettes, salted butter, pickles, mogettes, chipouillette, salad, fresh goat cheese and honey
Fruit crumble with a birthday candle and song
Red Saumur wine

Full and satisfied we walked around and saw the quaint local church–we love to visit churches! Église Sainte Croix de Marson (https://monumentum.fr/monument-historique/pa00109249/rou-marson-eglise-de-marson).

We continued on our journey toward Saumur, walked around Saumur, took photos of the castle and enjoyed our drive back to La Pomelie. The grounds of La Pomelie were so lushly landscaped. It was a country setting and had a big pond across the road where we saw two beavers gliding along in the water. What a fantastic first day.

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PART 4

The 45 minute expected time to go CDG-Montparnasse by taxi turned into 90 minutes. Our taxi driver was a gem and tried his best to get us there as quickly as possible! It was 1:50 pm and now we were in danger of missing the last train (2:10 pm) that arrived before 6 pm from Montparnasse-SPDC . We RAN through the train station with baggage (enough to hold several bottles of wine, cheese and souvenirs on the way back home plus clothes) to get to the ticket station. A lovely employee QUICKLY bought our (200 Euros/2 person) tickets and we RAN to the train. Boarded at 2:05 pm, but we were on now and going to SPDC arriving at 4:00 pm to get our car rental before 6 pm.

NOPE, downhill again. The train was delayed 15 minutes, no big deal (or was it?). More French announcements kept coming. A nice young man, Guillaume, sitting across from us, relayed what the announcements were. Our train was going to be delayed by 3 hours and arriving at SPDC at 7 pm (car rental closed at 6 pm) now.

No car rental meant no way to get to the B&B 25 minutes away from SPDC. No B&B the first night = where do we stay near SPDC gare? Our phones wouldn’t call out for some unknown reason, how do we contact our B&B hosts? We’ve also now lost 335 euros (70 pre-bought train tics, 65 on taxi CDG-Montparnasse and 200 on our newly purchased tics CDG-SPDC)! We travel on a very tight budget too!

OMG, what do we do now??? An angel of a Frenchman, Cedric, was sitting across the aisle from us, spoke great English and was very travel savvy. During our train wait time he helped us decide on a convoluted new plan. (Of course OUR phones/Ipad had no connection in the train station for some reason, but our French angel’s did!).

He called our B&B hosts, looked up train timetables, car rental options, called the car rental office, taxi options, etc. More snafus in that tangled web of plans, of course. Nothing was going right and I was holding back tears and screams of frustration. Even my even keeled husband was frantic.

To make this long story a bit shorter-

Our train ended up getting to SPDC at 6:00 pm on the dot. We RAN to the Avis car rental and THEY WERE STILL OPEN and willing to get our car. After some paper work and correcting the price to match our quote, we were upgraded to an almost new Toyota Yaris AUTOMATIC. We finally caught a break, thank goodness.

Off to our B&B in Blere- La Pomelie (https://www.lapomelie.com/)

NOPE, our rental was parked outside in a parking lot with a gate. We inserted a prepaid card (from Avis) and couldn’t get the gate up. Tried as many ways as we could, Google translate (on our now working phones), etc., with no luck. I finally saw a car dropping a lady off at the lot and I ran over and Google translated if she could help. Whatever she did, the gate went up and I yelled at my husband to “GO” before the gate went back down. I’m sure we looked like Laurel and Hardy (for those who know them)!

Whatever, we were now on our way to La Pomelie and a 7:30 pm dinner reservation there. The owner, Valerie, was a professional pastry chef! We arrived at 7:25 pm, beyond frazzled and got a big welcoming hug from Valerie and her husband, Philippe.

We had a magnificent dinner with 3 other guests.

Menu:
Aperitif of sparkling Chenin Blanc
A trio of entrees (guacamole mousse, quail egg salad and an onion tart)
Pumpkin soup with two shrimp and spicy croutons
Veal with roasted veggies
4 cheeses (St. Maure Touraine goat cheese, Morbier, Carre d’Aurillac, and a creamy camembert) with homemade jams and breads
Paris brest for dessert
A beautiful Touraine red wine with the meal

It was heaven on earth for two exhausted, frazzled travelers! The conversation was a delightful mix of lots of French, a little English and lots of Google translations plus we laughed and let off steam. The meal was Michelin quality to us and the warm welcome by Valerie, Philippe and the other guests made us feel very much at home.

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PART 5

We were home for 4 nights at the gorgeous B&B. Our room was perfect and we slept well. Thank goodness we arrived safely after an awful travel day. BUT, we were introduced to the kindness of strangers and the French in general, the adage of “what can go wrong does go wrong”, the thankfulness of good fortune and the blessings of arriving safely, at last, to our destination in the Loire Valley.

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PART 6

THURSDAY-

Up and at ‘em early and over to the main house for breakfast. Oh, what a treat Valerie’s “continental” breakfasts were! This morning we had:

Fresh squeezed O.J.
Fruit cup
Crepes with local honey
Yogurt
Chocolate chip croissants
Chouquettes
Breads
Coffee/tea/milk

Off to the 10:30 am Cadre Noir matinales (https://www.ifce.fr/en/cadre-noir/). It was fantastic! The horses were magnificent and the riders were amazing. We loved it!

Lunch was at the Caves of Marson in a troglodyte cave. (https://www.cavesdemarson.com/en/) It was fantastic. They seated us in a little candle lit cove. The meal was delightful as were the fouees.

Menu:
Cremant wine
Mushroom tart
Fouees with pure pork rillettes, salted butter, pickles, mogettes, chipouillette, salad, fresh goat cheese and honey
Fruit crumble with a birthday candle and song
Red Saumur wine

Full and satisfied we walked around and saw the quaint local church–we love to visit churches! Église Sainte Croix de Marson (https://monumentum.fr/monument-historique/pa00109249/rou-marson-eglise-de-marson).

We continued on our journey toward Saumur, walked around Saumur, took photos of the castle and enjoyed our drive back to La Pomelie. The grounds of La Pomelie were so lushly landscaped. It was a country setting and had a big pond across the road where we saw two beavers gliding along in the water. What a fantastic first day.

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we were introduced to the kindness of strangers and the French in
general,

Hopefully you can laugh of your first day misadventures as a good travel story and now you also have a good story to tell people that the rude French stereotype is not true.

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For some reason it won't allow me to post the other parts of the trip report. I'll keep trying.

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Joby, looking forward to hearing more of your French adventures.

I'm so glad you're first day ended so lovely! What a wonderful welcome after your bumpy start.

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I’m glad it worked out and you met an angel. I know time and budget are factors, but we like to stay overnight in our arrival city as many things can (and do) go wrong!

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Hi,
Does anyone have a work around for me to post the rest of my trip report? It will allow me to post a question like this post, but continues to tell me that there is a problem and I am not allowed to post when I continue my trip report :(

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2369 posts

Joby, I've had this happen to me before. Are you typing directly or copying and pasting something? There is probably a symbol or word that is automatically preventing you from posting.

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Hi Jean,

Copy and paste. That's what I did on the previous posts above. It won't allow me to post the whole report. I can only do so many characters on one post :(

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I'm impressed with your planning, as I am also a compulsive overplanner.(in 2020, I had to unpack a suitcase that was already packed for a trip to London at end of March). However, I think you placed way too much confidence that all your transportation plans for the first day would be on time. Assume the worst-it is not uncommon now for planes to be delayed an entire day. I would make my plans with that possibility in mind. You could have avoided a lot of stress if you had planned to stay in Paris the first night and take the first train out the next morning. For future reference, you should plan to get to your destination a day in advance of any important plans, such as joining a group tour or cruise.

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I write my entire trip report out in Word and then add it in sections in the comments part. It takes a bit of preplanning. You're allowed about 650 words (including spaces) in each reply. In Word, you can highlight a section and at the bottom it will tell you how many words you've highlighted. From there you can figure out how much to copy and paste at a time.

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Nice report … over on TA. Merci.

Took me back to places we’ve been in 2023 and last year.

You had nice hosts, good wine tastings, great cycling and you made it to lovely spots both on and off the main trails and paths for visitors. C’est beau.

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Thanks for the nice comments, everyone :)

Allan, That's how I typically do my reports-Word/Docs and then copy and paste. But, for some reason, the forum won't allow me to post any more of it. That's why I posted the link to my report on another forum. I couldn't find any other work around.

I wanted to be sure and thank everyone on here for the help with planning our trip and I think a TR is a good way to do that. Plus, hopefully it will help others in their planning :)

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17250 posts

Joby, go ahead and contact the webmaster and tell him the forum is not allowing you to post. I had that issue with my trip report and he fixed it. It may be because some of your text is unintentionally repeated so perhaps there is a system in place that tries to catch bots who post the same text? Not sure and I'm surely not a techie! Take a look at where you posted Part 4 which is a repeat of Part 2.

[email protected]

I'm sorry your first day was so awful. So interesting you got tripped up with EES. It literally took me 5 minutes plus another 10 to wait for an agent to deal with the line I was in. Different time of day, you probably had more flights arriving at the same time.

I'm glad you made your train but will add for future planning that it often takes me 90 minutes to get from CDG to the Montparnasse area.

Can't wait to read the rest of your TR!

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PART 7

FRIDAY-

Another scrumptious breakfast by Valerie. She spoiled us. Her baking was phenomenal as were all of her foods. She had previously been a chef at Chenenceau.

Busy day today!

Stopped at La Balade fromagerie in Blere-OMG it was like walking into heaven. We bought the exact cheeses Valerie had served at dinner our first night.

Next was a short drive to Chateau Chenenceau, it was set on the Cher river with beautiful grounds. Magnificent! Our first Loire castle.

Lunch was at Le Chapelier in Montrichard Val de Cher. (https://www.facebook.com/people/Le-Chapelier/100063739353713/).
Great little gem and reasonably priced. We had the daily special for 15.50 euros- a quarter roasted chicken, french fries, salad and 6-8 choices of sides from a small buffet, chocolate mousse for my husband, a banana cake for me and a small carafe of house white wine. It was delicious!

Moving on to our mushroom cave visit (https://www.le-champignon.com/). It was very unique and interesting. It was all in French, but between my limited French and just looking around we understood most of it. Not only the mushrooms (Blue Foot, Oyster, Shiitake and Paris mushrooms), but the troglodyte galleries that were carved in the cave were fascinating. Such a fun visit.

The fun wasn’t over just yet. Our last visit of the day was at Chaumont-sur-Loire chateau. The château was gorgeous and the grounds were exceptional!

To go with our cheese that night for dinner we stopped at the Cave SD wine store in Amboise and with the help of a knowledgeable young man, we chose a lovely 2022 Gamay Touraine from Domaine Mesiland. A local wine and so good with our cheeses back at La Pomelie.

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PART 8

SATURDAY-

Our weather was so nice, in the 60’s during the day and low 50’s at night and no rain. A real blessing for as much as we did outside.

Valerie ruined us for breakfasts. We will never be able to match up with these mouthwatering breakfasts at home. Every day was different–though there was always fresh squeezed O.J., breads, yogurt and fruits. Alternating- homemade crepes, delicate pastries, croissants, cheese/egg dishes…..and BUTTER. Oh, the butter!

After overindulging on breakfast we were off to visit Domaine Badiller winery. It was run by two brothers and one of the brothers was kind enough to show us through the winery and offer a nice tasting. We bought a bottle of 2005 Moelleux Collection (https://www.badiller.fr/produit/moelleux-2005/). An interesting wine and fun stop. He also advised us to visit the local church where an Oak tree grew out of the side of the church. It was very cool and we loved things like that! (https://krapooarboricole.wordpress.com/2009/02/13/chene-de-leglise-cheille-indre-et-loire/)

My husband was excited to see our next stop, Musee Maurice Dufresne (https://www.musee-dufresne.com/). He loves machinery, cars, and how things work. We were basically alone during our couple of hours there. Part of the museum is outside and part inside. This was a fun stop.

On our way to Azay Rideau Chateau we stopped at the Boulangerie Beaufils for sandwiches for tomorrow’s lunch. One goat cheese and one ham and cheese. We didn’t mind if they were a touch soggy the next day. We still liked them.

Azay Rideau chateau, how lovely and what a picturesque setting. We spent two hours there wandering and taking lots of photos.

Did I mention that I LOVE to take photos? I take photos of so many different and interesting things. After a big trip like this I turn my travel journal and photos into a book on the Blurb website. My last book-Italy-was about 240 pages! It’s such a nice way to remember and display the photos about different trips.

Last visit today, Chateau de l’Aulee winery. It was more commercial than Badiller. We tasted three wines.

We still had a few things to finish out the long day, Mass at St. Christopher in Blere, an 11th century church plus a phenomenal dinner by Valerie at La Pomelie. The other guests at dinner were a couple from St. Nazaire, France. Another friendly and pleasant evening. Very little English spoken, but who needs it? We pantomimed, used Google translate, Valerie translated, used my French and we were in business!

Tonight’s menu:

Mr. Chenin white wine
Entrees:
avocado and shrimp salad
White asparagus with prosciutto
Quail eggs on Parmesan toast with a Cesar sauce
Main dish:
Salmon on a carrot/sweet potato/squash puree w/cream sauce
Cheeses with delicious jams and breads
Pavlova for dessert

Magnifique!!!

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PART 9

SUNDAY-

We were off to Burgundy today after four nights in the Loire Valley, but not until we had our final “Valerie” breakfast. It included : cheese pie, almond croissants, fruit cup, crepes, fresh squeezed O.J., and delicious brownie muffins. And, lest I forget…butter. Oh, how we loved French butter!

After our warm good byes and hugs off we drove to our next stop, four nights in Precy-sous-Thil Burgundy.

Our plan was to take the scenic Michelin map route I had plotted out. Four hours…who were we kidding, we were lost most of the time, and couldn’t get internet sometimes for the map so the 4-5 hour drive took 8 hours. But, it sure was pretty. Along the way we saw cute little villages, churches, town squares, shops, a cool cemetery in Henrichemont and the gorgeous Sancerre vineyards. Well worth the time getting lost.

Arriving in Precy-sous-Thil at our B&B, La Part des Anges
(https://www.lapartdesanges-auxois.fr/).

We met the owner, Philippe. He gave us a warm welcome and showed us around. Philippe was a former Biology teacher who now sold wine for a living. He had a really neat wine cave on his property with over 2000 bottles. We had arranged for him to provide a charcuterie plate and wine for us for dinner. It was quite good! It had prosciutto, homemade boar foie gras, several different cheeses including Comte and our first taste of Epoisses cheese. Alongside the charcuterie he served a very good homemade orange wine and a lovely Pinot Noir.

We slept well in our comfy bed afterwards.

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PART 10

MONDAY-

Philippe served a very simple breakfast to start our day. We had a fun day coming up. We planned three stops today and a nice dinner served by Philippe for my husband’s birthday celebration!

Semur-en-Auxois–what a beautiful medieval town. It was only a 15 minute drive from the B&B. We picked up a walking tour map at the visitor's office, the walk was about two hours long. We walked through the lovely 13th century Notre Dame church and admired its stained glass windows. For lunch we shared a really good Kebob Epoisses sandwich from Delices de Byzance
(https://www.facebook.com/DelicesdeByzance/). The town was a walled city at one time and we walked along the walls down to the river. On our way out of the village we found a nice photo spot and took some photos that looked over toward the town.

We love the movie “Chocolat” and were excited to drive to our next spot, Flavigny sur Ozerain, where it was filmed. What a charming little village it was. It was very hilly too. We walked all around town stopping to take photos. We also loved the little candy store, “Les Anis de Flavigny”, started in 1591. We sampled almost all of the candies and bought a few tins. The tins were really nice looking too. Sadly, the house where “Chocolat” was filmed doesn’t look at all like in the movie. Although, someone recently bought it according to a woman we talked to and was extensively renovating it. It will be pretty, I’m sure.

Last, but certainly not least, our next stop was the Fontenay Abbey built in 1118 by St. Bernard. At one time it had housed over 200 monks. It was a UNESCO site. It was huge and oh, so peaceful there. We loved walking through the various buildings and the grounds. The light was the golden afternoon light that is so nice, especially for photos. It was not too busy and we closed the place down, we were the last people out before they shut the doors.

Philippe’s birthday dinner for my husband was at 7:30. He had also invited his son and two couples that were friends of his son’s. There were eight of us total at dinner. What a grand time we had! They were all so interesting to talk to and they said they found us delightful too.

The menu was:

Salad with prosciutto and homemade croutons w/Epoisses
Oeufs en Meurette
Variety of cheeses including our new favorite cheese-Epoisses
A decorated birthday cake

Wines he served were:

Domaine Royet Crémant de Bourgogne Brut
2022 Jean Claude Bachelet & Fils Saint-Aubin Premier Cru
2022 Francois Confuron-Gindre Nuits-St-Georges Pinot Noir
Domaine Chevalier Ladoix Blanc Chardonnay
Union des Viticulteurs de Chablis Icauna Chablis

Philippe was also a rum lover and offered a taste of four different rums. My husband and I stuck to smaller pours of the wines and just small tastes of the rums. The young ones soaked up the rest :) It was a fabulous party that we all enjoyed immensely!!

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PART 11

TUESDAY-

Today we had to cut one of our stops and it was the Castle of Bazoches. We just simply ran out of time, even though we left the B&B at 8:40 am.

After breakfast we drove to Noyers-sur-Serein. It was another 11th century medieval city. We enjoyed doing a self guided walking tour of Noyers that we picked up from the tourist office. We loved the half-timbered houses and the setting around the Surein river was so pretty. One of our goals in Noyers was to find the elusive ceramic black cat that sat atop a home in the town. WE FOUND IT! It is said to bring good fortune to those who spot it :) We also bought a tasty piece of flan to share-we needed a snack.

Au Petit Bistrot
(https://www.facebook.com/p/Au-petit-bistrot-100068125244397) in Sermizelles was our lunch stop. Oh, boy, was it good! Mouthwatering! It was a small place with great service.

My husband had:
Avocado stuffed with shrimp salad
Chicken with a Dijon mustard sauce
Fries
Chocolate mousse

I had:
Avocado stuffed with shrimp salad
Trout fillet
Fries
Strawberry tart

Vezelay was our last stop today. It was set high upon a hill and visible for miles around. We loved it. We parked at the bottom of the town and walked up to the Basilica, it was so gorgeous. The basilica was huge, enormous! The pulpit was beautiful too. So many of the old churches had gorgeous ornate pulpits. We walked down to the crypt which is believed to hold relics of Mary Magdalene of biblical fame. We did another self guided walking tour of the town. We liked those.

The view from the town’s fortified walls was so scenic. So many of the little houses in many of the different villages were wrapped in wisteria.They looked like a postcard. I took lots of photos!

Since we decided to skip visiting the Castle of Bazoches, we had a little extra time and wanted to stop at the Fromagerie Berthaut near our B&B. We bought two cheeses to freeze and bring home: Soumaintrain and our new found love, Epoisses. It was the one place in all of our time in France that we weren’t welcomed. They were quite brusque and unfriendly.

Guess what, we still had more to do this evening–a wine tasting in Philippe’s wine cave with six others (restaurant owners who were looking to buy wines for their restaurants). My husband was worn out and decided to stay in our room. I went to the tasting! It was so interesting and I learned a lot.

The group tasted five wines:
2023 Flavigny Alésia Pax Romana
2024 Domaine Gaugey Cuvèe Ninon Rully (chardonnay)
2023 Domaine Garrey & Fils Vieilles Vignes Mercurey
Domaine Maratray-Dubreuil Vieilles Vignes Ladoix
2018 Domaine Jean-Pierre Maldant Aloxe-Corton

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PART 12

WEDNESDAY-

Philippe had offered to spend the day with us as a guide, we quickly took him up on his offer! We ate a quick breakfast and off we went. Chateauneuf-en-Auxois, Beaune and a private tasting at a winemaker were on the agenda.

The pretty town of Chateauneuf sat high on a hill overlooking the Burgundy Canal. We first went to the viewing spot called La Croix de Mission. It looked out over the fields of Colza, houses and the canal. It was spectacular! My husband and I went through the Chateau de Chateauneuf-en-Auxois. The rooms were magnificent and the views out of the windows were breathtaking. We met back up with Philippe and had lunch at La Table de Guillaume (https://hostellerie-de-chateauneuf.com/le-restaurant/) -fantiastic food and service!

Our delectable meals consisted of:
The most delicious Pâte à choux filled with gruyere cheese
Boar Terrine de Campagne Maison
Epaule d’Agneu
Fries
Coupe de Fraises et chantilly maison

We drove on to Beaune and visited the Hospices de Beaune. A fascinating place with lovely painted roof tiles. We had an audio guide and it was a place with an interesting history. We loved it!

To finish out our day we stopped at a family winery, Domaine Prunier Laurent et Romain
(https://www.vins-bourgogne.fr/vignerons-savoir-faire/femmes-et-hommes-passionnes/prunier-laurent-et-romain-auxey-duresses-21190,2397,9211.html?&args=Y29tcF9pZD0xNDA2JmFjdGlvbj12aWV3RmljaGUmaWQ9VklOQk9VMDAwMDIwMDk2MiZ8),

that Philippe had done business with and thought we would enjoy –YES, we did!

We tried 12 different wines with great comments by Romain. We thoroughly enjoyed our tasting. And, yes, we did taste and “spit” :)

What a marvelous day we had!!

THURSDAY–

As we came down to breakfast, Philippe told us that “Sushi”, the household cat, had left us a going away present on the back door step–a mouse. Thanks so much Sushi!

Early breakfast, warm goodbyes, hugs and promises of keeping in touch and off we drove to the Alsace area, our next stop. La Part des Anges was a charming place to spend our four nights in Burgundy. Philippe was an awesome host and wine connoisseur/guide/host. We loved our stay!!

It was about a five hour drive on mostly toll roads to Bergheim where we were spending four nights exploring the Alsace area.

We arrived at our Airbnb in Bergheim around 3 pm, Au chant des oiseaux (https://www.airbnb.fr/rooms/1164542206247188806?source_impression_id=p3_1779934505_P39oZiWJyQRGZ6ND). We had the upper unit. It was great, clean, had gorgeous views of the vineyards and great hosts, Ophelia and Nicholas.

We settled in and then drove to the Gustave Lorentz winery
(https://www.gustavelorentz.com/en/). We really liked the wines we tasted. We decided to use the pedal bikes to ride to dinner at Chez Helmut in Rorschwihr. BIG mistake, it was all uphill and after trying to ride for a while, we decided to turn back and go get our car. Wise choice!

Arriving at the busy Chez Helmut’s we each ordered a Flammekueche– one roquefort and one munster with onions and lardons. OMG, the crust was crackle crisp and the toppings were divine. Sure wish I had one now :)

Back in the car, we drove 5 minutes to the Airbnb and dropped into bed. We were so tired, we had been super busy during this trip so far!

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PART 13

FRIDAY-

Up at 8 am to go to the grocery. For 46 euros, we got two local white sausages, sauerkraut from the deli, white Alsace asparagus, milk, yogurt, cheese, a baguette, a 1 liter Coke plus several souvenirs. We also stopped at the local boulangerie for some snacks for later. They were packaged in such a cute little box too! We dropped the groceries off at our Airbnb and set out on the Airbnb bikes to ride from Bergheim to Ribeauville to Hunawihr and back to Bergheim. It was a blast!

We got to the Ribeauville wine co-op just before noon when they were closing. We tried a couple of wines and decided to spend some time looking around town using a tourist walking map we had. It was a very picturesque town. We saw our first stork there, what a thrill! I’m a bird-nerd.

We ate our backpack lunch sitting on a wall in town and people watching. After lunch we bought a Kuegelhopf. I liked it. My husband thought it was just ok. After lunch we really enjoyed the wine tasting at Jean Sipp. Marie was very helpful at the tasting. It was 2 pm by then and we rode back to the co-op to try a few more wines.

Time to ride on to Hunawihr and see the Butterfly sanctuary (https://www.jardinsdespapillons.fr/en/). What a great place to spend some time. There were butterflies galore and even an enclosed leaf cutter ant trail to view. We spent well over an hour there and enjoyed every single minute!

It was now 4:30 and we decided to ride over to the Mitttnacht winery room in town for a tasting (https://www.mittnachtfreres.fr/). We loved the very helpful and informative Emma. Great wines too.

Biking back to Bergheim didn’t take too long and was enjoyable. We enjoyed a glass of wine on our balcony while fixing our sausages, sauerkraut and asparagus for dinner.

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PART 14

SATURDAY-

As usual, today was busy. We hadn’t stopped at all on this trip. We were tired, but it was a good tired. We were seeing/doing most of what we hoped to.

For a bird nerd, the morning started off with a bang. My husband was out on our balcony looking around. He said “what’s this bird?”. I looked out, grabbed the phone and took some quick photos. It was a Eurasian hoopoe! I was so excited!!

Back to our day-We were visiting several of the small wine villages today: Riquewihr, Kaysersberg, Turckheim and Euguisheim in that order.

On the way to Riquewhir we saw more stork nests! It was thrilling to see the nests and the birds in the wild! Riquewihr was a very busy touristy village, we thought. We found the Dopff & Irion winery and stopped. We mostly tried Grand Cru’s when tasting anywhere on the trip. We wanted to bring some nice bottles back home that we couldn’t get in the U.S.. We walked around town, took some photos and decided to head on to Kaysersberg.

Kaysersberg was more to our liking. It was a bit larger than Riquewihr and not quite as busy, we thought. We found a lovely church, Sainte-Croix. It had a large beautiful crucifix hanging above the entrance to the altar. We sampled some cheeses from Elsass Stub cheese shop, very good and they vacuum packed too. We bought a slice of Barikas Cumin to bring home.

Our real goal for Kaysersberg was to eat at Bratschall Manala for lunch. We did :) We sat outside along the street.

Menu:
Choucroute Garnie Artisanale aux 5 Viandes (5 local meats and sausages) with sauerkraut and potatoes

Jarret braisé sauce Munster (Beer braised pork shank with munster cheese sauce) fries and salad

We were in carnivore heaven. It was sooo good!

Filled to the brim we were ready to move along to the next village, Turckheim.

We first went to the Turckheim wine co-op and tried several wines. But, the best thing–across the street were several stork nests and storks roosting on the roof tops. We watched and listened to them for a long while. Fascinating!

Euguisheim was our last village stop. We really liked it too. Very quaint and all of the villages had such a Germanic look to them. Quite different from the rest of France we had visited. A nice change. Of course, we found the local church and had a peek, Chapelle Saint-Leon IX. such a beautiful peaceful place.

A quick stop at Gruss winery and then stork watching. I absolutely loved seeing the storks and their nests.

We spied a bakery with a scrumptious looking Black Forest cake in the window and had to get it. It was so yummy!

On the way home we decided to stop back at Gustave Lorentz and buy a bottle for tonight’s dinner. We got a 2024 Reserve Riesling. It was a nice wine. Dinner was “fridge cleanout” since we were leaving Monday for Paris.

I had researched and planned to buy the Paris Navigo Decouverte Pass on both of our phones. I’d read that U.S. citizens needed to wait until they were in France to do so, something to do with the phone's location? It didn’t work for us. Every time I tried to purchase it I got to the phone number part and it wouldn’t work. I even tried to use our B&B host’s phone number, no go. I tried everything I could think of and nothing worked. I didn’t want to wait in line when we arrived in Paris to get a physical card, so we ended up just putting 10 Metro tickets on our phones to use as we needed them. It was very frustrating not getting it to work, especially since I “thought” I had the procedure down pat. In the end, it wasn’t a problem, we got around just fine.

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PART 15

SUNDAY-

This was to be a little slower paced day than usual :)

First thing this morning we stopped at the local delicious bakery in town and got sandwiches for today and tomorrow, four croissants and two desserts for tonight. Quite a purchase.

We went to Mass at Notre-Dame de l”Assumption in Bergheim. The choir sounded absolutely heavenly. The Mass was 1 ½ hours long, a bit longer than we’re used to :) Such a beautiful place to worship.

Stopped back at our Airbnb, dropped off all of our purchases and headed to Monkey Mountain in Kintzheim (https://www.montagnedessinges.com/en/). It was an absolute delight! We were so glad we decided to add it to our itinerary. We love animals and there is nothing like watching primates do their thing. We spent 2 ½ hours watching them.

We had been so blessed with gorgeous weather the entire trip. Everyday was sunny and in the high 60’s. How did we get so fortunate? The flowers were blooming, the trees were green as was the grass and best of all the vineyards were green and growing. Wow, just wow!

Driving down the mountain we passed several cute villages and wished we had time to stop. We saw Domaine Rolly Gassmann when passing through Rorschwihr and stopped. It sat high on a hill with wrap-around windows. The views were magnificent. Boy, we had tasted a lot of different wines. It was so much fun and we learned a lot.

We finally found the German War cemetery in Begheim we were looking for and stopped. Our GPS had us going all over the place. It reminded us of a much smaller Arlington National cemetery in Washington D.C.

We ended our day with a walking tour of Bergheim. Such a neat town. We saw several of the “famous” city landmarks–the sundial, the 1000 year old Linden tree, the synagogue and we walked along the ramparts. (https://medium.com/@frenchmoments/bergheim-a-medieval-jewel-on-the-alsace-wine-route-c4d2cc44f769)

We ended our day with sandwiches from the boulangerie, Gustave Lorentz riesling and our tasty desserts also from the boulangerie.

What a fabulous time we had during our four nights in Alsace. It was a bit different than the rest of France we had visited. We like to have itineraries that are filled with a variety of places and things. It makes it really interesting to us.

Tomorrow is a travel day to Paris on the train. We had the absolute best time on our trip! It more than measured up to what we had hoped for–other than the first day of the trip. But, “things happen” as our little grandson sometimes says.

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PART 16

MONDAY-

Our alarm went off at 7:15, up, breakfast and a last minute check to make sure we had everything. A quick 20 minute drive to Avis car rental return at the Colmar train station. The car return was so easy it made us nervous. Easy peasy.

We walked next door to catch our Paris train. It was 50 minutes late getting into Paris. From Paris Est we needed to catch another train to our Paris lodging but it wasn’t running (what is it with us and trains??). So, we had to completely reroute with two trains including a connection. We finally arrived at our lodging–Foyer Saint Jean Eudes (a religious guest house) in the 14th arrondissement. It was perfectly fine for us, very clean and simple with a new ensuite bathroom, breakfast, close to the Metro station and in a nice quiet area. Our home for the last three nights of our trip.

Since our arrival was late, we had to adjust our itinerary for the rest of the day. We took an abbreviated walk through the Montparnasse cemetery (https://www.parisinsidersguide.com/montparnasse-cemetery-paris.html). We love cemeteries and the Funerary art that the old ones have. I had marked a lot of headstones we wanted to see but, since time was cut short we didn’t get to all of them. Our favorite was the Charles Pigeon tombstone (https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/3460/charles-pigeon).

After our cemetery visit we walked to the Butte aux Cailles area to see the street art and have dinner. Street art is another of my favorite things to photograph. I had mapped out some of the ones we hoped to see. Again, since time was short we didn’t get to all of them but did see a fair number and were happy (https://travelswithcappy.com/2025/09/11/butte-aux-cailles-means-quail-hill-august-16-2025/).

We were hungry since all we had eaten was our boulangerie sandwiches on the train. We ate at Chez Gladines (https://chez-gladines-butte-aux-cailles.weeblyte.com/). It was fine and even had the bonus of having some street art right at the door. I had a duck leg quarter meal with house red wine and my husband had a skirt steak meal with a Coke. We both liked our meals and the service was really great.

After eating we walked back to the Foyer and dropped into bed.

Breakfast at the Foyer was actually pretty good–make your own boiled eggs, ham, cheese, cereal, breads, yogurt, juices, milk, coffee and fruit.

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PART 17

TUESDAY-

On our way to the RER we stopped at Le Pain Au Naturel for sandwiches to go, ham and cheese, for lunch. Our Passion Monuments pass was put to use today. It more than paid for itself during our time in Paris! We had 9 am tickets for St. Chapelle. We were there early, but still had to wait in line for about 20 minutes to clear security. Once inside we quickly walked to the chapel and boy, oh boy, was it amazing! The amount of work that went into making all of those stained glass windows must have been enormous. They were breathtakingly beautiful!! My photos didn’t begin to capture the beauty.

GoingRoundAgain (a poster on Trip Advisor) had a map that he made of a good get-acquainted-to-Paris walk. I used it as a guide and changed things up for us a bit. It was a combo of walking and Metro rides. On the walk we saw: the Tuileries and carousel, Place de la Concorde, my favorite bridge of all time-Pont Alexandre III, went up the Arc de Triomphe and watched the crazy traffic down below, Eiffel Tower and finally stopped in the gardens at the Eiffel Tower and had our sandwiches from the boulangerie.

An RER C ride to the Musee Marmottan Monet (https://www.marmottan.fr/en/) and I was blissfully happy. I LOVE the Impressionists (and museums in general) BUT, my beloved isn’t really a museum fan. I had been to the Musee D’Orsay in 1993 on my Paris trip, but knew my husband would be bored stiff to see it. So, our compromise was the Marmotten. He actually enjoyed it and was happy to sit near the Waterlillies and wait for me to go through again and again to see everything. We had an added bonus of an exhibition of Berthe Morisot’s paintings. It was perfect (and not crowded!).

After a couple of hours at the Marmottan we took the RER C to dinner at Little Breizh (https://www.facebook.com/LittleBreizhCreperie). It was delicious! My gigantic crepe was mushrooms, lardons and cheese with an egg and my husband decided on the “Complete”- ham, bacon, cheese and an egg. We each had a bowl of the cider (Val de Rance Brut and Val de Rance Doux). We finished by splitting a “Choc & Croc” dessert crepe. Another delectable meal!

Last event of the night-a sunset cruise on the Seine to see the lights. I had read that it might be best to just walk up and get tickets so that we were sure that the weather would be clear and April typically wasn’t obscenely busy. So that’s what we did. We walked up around 7 pm for an 8:45 boat trip. Not to be–SOLD OUT until the last trip of the night-10 pm. I almost cried. I was so disappointed! We decided that 10 pm was too late for us and so didn’t get to do it (the next evening, our last of the trip was already full). It was hard to feel too bad though because we had had an extraordinary trip! We decided to walk around a bit and I got some nice early evening light shots of Notre Dame without scads of people around. We metroed back to the Foyer and went to bed a little early. Tomorrow was our last full day in France.

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PART 18

WEDNESDAY-

Today was a BIG touring day. We were going out with a bang!

Alarm 6:15-check, breakfast-check, RER B to Notre Dame-check.

Arrived at the Cathedral and walked around the rear until Mass was finished and then we went around to see the rest of the magnificent church. I had been there in 1993, so I had seen it before the big fire seven years ago. What a change inside it was from my previous visit. The restoration was amazing. Although, I must say that I preferred the “old” ND before the fire. Just my opinion. I had decided before we left home that I wanted a little sun catcher of Notre Dame so, after seeing the church we stood in line at the gift shop and got the sun catcher.

We had a 10:15 reservation to climb the Towers of Notre Dame. We were both really excited for that. I really wanted to see the gargoyles and chimeras up close and personal. The climb was 424 steps to the top. It really wasn’t too bad. When we stopped at the terrace we were about five feet from the gargoyles–so cool. Our time at the very top was strictly limited to 5 minutes. This was in the top five of all our activities of the whole trip!

The next few hours were spent going to specific stores where we wanted to buy souvenirs-Monnaie de Paris, Monoprix and Marin Montagut. In between stores we ate lunch sitting along the Medici fountain in the Luxembourg Gardens. So great!

We caught the Metro 12 over to our very last attraction, the Hotel de la Marine (https://www.hotel-de-la-marine.paris/en). Since we couldn’t get to Versailles (I was there in 1993), I thought this might be a mini alternative. It was done so well with the audio guide leading one through all of the rooms and giving explanations. Even my beloved thought it was interesting.

Our last dinner of the trip was at Le Verbalon (https://leverbalon.fr/). It was the perfect end to our trip to France. The food was exquisite and the service perfect!

Menu:
We shared a white asparagus dish that was so good we almost licked the plate
My husband had a gorgeous large dinner salad
I had a veal dish
We each had a glass of Sauvignon de Touraine

What a perfect ending to a perfect trip. We had a short walk back to the Foyer. We finished packing, went to bed and had sweet dreams of France.

THURSDAY-

Another early alarm, 6:15, we were heading home today. It was a 10 minute walk to the RER B going straight to CDG for our flight home.

It only took us 45 minutes from arrival at CDG to our gate. Our flight left on time and was uneventful. We arrived at CVG about 20 minutes early, got our luggage (no wine bottle breakage, no cheese taken by TSA), shuttled to our car and drove to the hotel we were staying at (we didn’t want to drive several hours home after our international flight). A very easy ending to an absolutely remarkable trip to France!

We found all of the French people we had contact with to be unfailingly nice and helpful–except the cheese ladies at Berthaut :) All of our lodging hosts were amazing, our lodgings a great fit for us, our car rental was great and so far no tickets (fingers crossed), the food and wine we had was phenomenal and we made friends wherever we went. I was glad I always had a Plan B in my back pocket though-we used it several times!

P.S. Our travel insurance ended up reimbursing us for the nearly 350 euros we lost on our initial travel day fiasco (missed trains, taxi, etc.). That took some of the sting out of the day :)

I am ever so grateful for all of the help many posters gave me for this trip. I am such a detailed planner and put so much pressure on myself to make each and every trip we take perfect. We had a few snafus on this trip, but in the end, they really didn’t matter, we lived through them and when we returned home everyone and everything was good. Our trip WAS perfect and we’ll always remember it.

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Hi Pam,

Many thanks to you for the suggestion of emailing the Webmaster. He did indeed figure out the problem :) After that it was smooth sailing!

That's the end of my very long report.. I hope you all enjoy it and find it helpful. I really appreciate all of your help :)

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What a wonderful time you had. Wow!! So very happy your planning paid off and that your only hiccup was on arrival day!

And storks and a hoopoe….i’ve seen storks but the hoopoe has eluded me! Very lucky for you!

I am also so happy you emailed Andrew and the IT team and they fixed things for you. They are 😎 🤩 awesome!

Thank you so much for persevering and finishing your TR here.

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What a wonderful, detailed trip report! I felt like I was with you every step of the way, which was lovely, as I've been to many of the places you described. I'm trying to decide what I loved most about your TR: your meal descriptions (I travel to eat!) or your joie de vivre, which comes across so clearly!

Thanks for taking the time to share your TR.......if your trip was half the pleasure it was to read, it must have been a great one!

Sue