Paris Picnic Issue Resolved in Rick's Favor! Oui on picnics & du vin!

There have been news reports of a large infestation of rats that eat the rubbish left by picnicking tourists. I think it is more important to make sure that you clean up after yourself than what you are eating. Here is a link to a news report from last summer. When I read the report I made a mental note about not picnicking near the Louvre.

http://www.france24.com/en/20140730-rats-infest-louvre-museum-gardens-paris-tuileries/

I read the same article in Post 1 and found it quite interesting even though I don't picnic in cities. There are rules and regulations about having open alcohol in parks throughout Paris and in some parks sitting on the grass is forbidden so you can't have a blanket stye picnic but you can eat on the bench (which I don't think of a picnic). I have not seen the rules on alcohol enforced unless something else is going on meaning that I have seen police officers walk past quiet people sharing a bottle of wine.

Most parks used to forbid walking or sitting on the grass. This is a little more relaxed some places now but it is still not the norm and can be sporadically enforced. If you see a bunch of people picnicking on the grass you are probably safe, but if not, not. At the Luxembourg Gardens there is one little strip of grass designated for sitting. I have walked by it when it was pretty much butt to butt with people sitting on the grass -- not generally picnicking though.

Some parks like the Tuilleries and Luxembourg Gardens have lots of movable chairs which are commonly arranged in circles by people eating together. (if people are using a chair as a footstool you can request it if there are not available chairs with a simple gesture and 'bon jour, sil vous plait?') Other parks have benches which can be used for picnicking or even rock formations like along the faux creek at Butte Chaumont. I have never seen a picnic table and sitting on the grass is as noted generally not permissible.

Wine is not precisely legal in public but is tolerated except on the Champs du Mars in the evening where rowdy young drunks became a problem. If one is discreet it will be no problem; basically if you are not causing problems or are not in any area where other people are causing problems drinking you won't have difficulties with it.

When we were in Paris in May 2010, there were police stationed at entrances to the park where the Eiffel Tower is to search people for alcohol (probably among other things). One officer even wanted to smell my water bottle to make sure it was not vodka. He was joking around with me when I said it was water he pretended he heard me say "vodka." I think that park is probably a special case, but my experience provides one data point anyway. Even if the police were not otherwise inclined to worry about wine in parks, I would think the cafes would lobby to have an ordinance passed against it.

Yes this field by the Eiffel Tower is the Champs du Mars and alcohol is forbidden there in the evenings because of the jackass behavior of partying drunks in the past.

This thread is interesting. I had no idea alcohol was not allowed on the Champs de Mars! The couple of times I walked over there last September to watch the Tower twinkle in the evenings, there were street vendors walking thru hawking bottles of champagne and many people sitting on the grass drinking. Of course these vendors seemed to be the same ones selling umbrellas and other assorted cr*p during the day!

People were walking, sitting and playing on the grass at the Place des Vosges in the Marais during our visit several years ago.

Well, I'm glad I asked! First, thanks to each of you for your opinions on picnics and wine in public parks in Paris.
You've already convinced me that we'll err on the side of caution and have du vin in a terrace cafe.

But about picnics. Looks like we have a conflict of opinions on that one.
When I first posted the question, I had not yet specifically looked at Rick's Paris guidebook (which I have since I'm going to Paris in a few weeks). I was kinda under the vague impression Rick was positive on picnics.

So just now I looked up what Rick has to say, and he says:

"Paris is picnic-friendly. Almost any park will do."
He continues: "Many have benches or grassy areas, though some lawns are off-limits--obey the signs."
(quote is from page 450-451 of Rick's Paris 2014).

And about drinking wine in Paris parks, we have a big conflict of opinion between some of us and Rick.
Here's what Rick says about that:
"And though drinking wine in public places is taboo in the US, it's pas de problème [not a problem] in France."
(page 449 of Paris 2014).

Again, your posts have already convinced me to err on the side of caution when it comes to the wine, despite Rick's assurances that it's okay.

But I am interested in a little picnicking--so I think I'll ask Laura (the Rick Steves forum moderator) if she could perhaps check with their Paris guidebook editor to confirm that, yes, they're really sure about the picnic advice in their book.

Stay tuned, maybe Laura will see this post on Monday.

Kent, if by picnicking you mean spreading a blanket or cloth and serving up a meal, then I can't answer your question. For me, picnicking is just parking myself on a bench or in chair (or on a wall if available) and having a sandwich, piece of fruit, soft drink, etc.. That you can do just about anywhere. I 'picnicked' that way in Pere Lachaise cemetery, Luxembourg gardens, Tuileries garden, Place des Voges, on the bridges over the Seine, and at square du Vert-Galant on Ile de Cite. Never had wine at any of those picnics though.

Hope you get an 'official' answer from the RS staff.

Nancy,
I'm with you. I've done the "bench or standing type picnic" all over Europe. And the blanket type picnic on the ground, when I've had a rental car and been outside the big city.
Actually one of our best meals (and cheapest) was on the beach in Nice.
But I don't remember picknicking in our prior trips to Paris--something about the big city.
Which is why I posted the original question.
I mean, I'm not going to haul a blanket around Paris.
Although Rick speaks in his book about picnicking on the grass in public parks in Paris, and now that I think about it, I've seen people doing it in Paris, in the background of some of his videos.

With the trip coming up, my wife and I have had a couple of evenings in front of the TV where we just had French vin, pain (the kind you eat) and fromage. And that got me thinking, wouldn't it be nice to replicate that en Paris, with appropriate scenery.
And apparently that has occurred to Rick.

I'm still nervous about the wine, though, and wouldn't do it in public unless I saw a number of locals doing the same thing.

One of the many great things about Paris is that there is almost always a nice bench nearby. Contrast that with New Orleans. I bet there are as many benches in one large Parisian park as there are in all of NOLA.

I live in a neighborhood with a great park (Parc Monceau), and when the weather is good, many folks are out there sitting on the grass or on benches, enjoying picnics. Sometimes areas are marked as out of bounds for foot traffic, but that is obvious by the signage and the ropes around them. As to wine, just be discreet.

Terry,
It's helpful to hear from a resident, especially on a question like this that involves local customs and laws.
Sounds like a big oui on picnics in Paris parks.
Thank you,
Kent

Karen,
Yes, we were in New Orleans last year and didn't find any parks that we wanted to picnic in, not in the French Quarter. Jackson Square and the other little parks were fine, but not places you'd want to picnic in. And you didn't need to, because of all the open-air markets.
Beignets! I've been wondering if they have those in Paris?
It was interesting to walk down Bourbon Street, past the police, with an open container. I knew you could do it and not end up in jail, but I was still nervous the first time I did it. Go cups, I mean geau cups!

We picnicked in several fun places ...went to several of the daily outdoor food markets.. They have other items also....but we gathered a meal and ate nearby. 2 examples come to mind. We love the Saxe Breteuill market in the 7th. We usually get olives, a fresh baguette, some cheese ,pastries, or fruit and, in the Fall, fresh cider. And sit close by on one of the benches and have a picnic.
At the rue Mouffetard market we do the same but at the bottom of the hill there is a small storefront with the most heavenly rotisserie chickens and potatoes. We get some and at the bottom of the hill by the church is a small park and everyone eats their lunch there.. On Sunday morning there is singing and dancing there... A lot of fun!
The other place we picnic...if I can explain this.... Is close to the Bon Marche food store.They have a wonderful...and. Inexpensive roasted and marinated vegetable sandwich...as well as other wonderful takeout .When we are near we stop in, grab our favorite and a drink and other goodies exit the food store door and find the metro we came on and there is this wonderful little park right there..it is sort of hidden, and have our lunch... Others are eating also...very quiet and relaxing.

I don't really see a conflict between people are saying on the forum and the guide. The book says that drinking wine in a park is not a problem. It is technically illegal to have open wine in the parks but not a problem because of non-enforcement of the rules unless the situation requires it.

Kent, I never saw you as such a rebel ;-)

I think the only concern is the areas where the rowdiness has got out of control and the authorities are reclaiming the land.

Unless you are intending to get rat faced and run screaming around with your shirt off bothering everybody I don't think you'll have much to worry about.

Just don't let them catch you walking on the grass where it is posted not to...

Actually I don't consider the Champ-de-Mars a true park. It reminds me of a huge grassy football field, with a spectacular view. There are many parks in Paris, large and tiny. At lunchtime workers all around the city eat in the parks, weather permitting. There are "traiteurs " in every neighborhood that sell food to go, and they provide the napkins, forks etc. so that you can enjoy an al fresco meal.

Hi Kent,
My wife and I are HUGE picnickers and we have picnics all over Paris, always with wine. You can tell which grassy areas are off limits most of the time since they are bordered with small steel "semi-circles" at the edge. Pretty obvious. Since I never want to lug around blankets, we usually just sit on the grass if it's dry, or more often than not, grab a bench (they're everywhere). We don't really try to hide the wine and we've never had issues. We've even had a number of picnics at Marie Antoinette's Hamlet at Versailles with droves of tourists wandering by us looking longingly at our wine and cheese and never had an issue.
We did try to use a table at a café that was closed at the time years ago, but the maître d booted us. So, don't try that. Don't sweat the wine, it really helps make the picnic!

I was in Place des Vosges in September and many people were sitting/laying on blankets, picnicking, etc. I don't think drinking wine is a big thing. Many sit by the riverbanks drinking. Take a stroll first thing in the morning. The quais are littered with wine bottles.

Kent:

I think you'll be fine

But you gotta check the sign

We were strolling through Luxembourg last September and came upon a rather funny scene. A police officer was blowing his whistle, shouting and waving his arms in an attempt to get the attention of a tourist (he may have been a traveler, as well) who was lounging on the grass, reading. He was clearly beyond the pale, and the last thing the officer seemed to want to do was step over the little fence onto the grass-like our tourist had done-but the guy was probably fifty meters away and appeared to be "plugged in". A dozen of us watched this for a minute or two, then the cop finally stepped over the "fence" and went to the man, still blowing his whistle and waving his arms. He escorted the man back to the footpath and pointed out the signs, apparently scolding him the whole way.

Fun is fun.

I wonder if there is a distinction between a Parc, a Jardin and a Place for the purposes of sitting on the grass. I have noticed that it is clear that you are not supposed to sit on the grass in a Jardin. But at the Parcs (Monceau, Buttes Chaumont, etc.), traditional picnicking with blankets appears to be fine. Eating in a Jardin is limited to using the benches. The ankle high metal barriers, I think, are the key things to look for. If you see them sitting on the grass is not okay.

Darren,
I agree that wine helps make the picnic!
Vin, pain and fromage. One of the least expensive and most satisfying picnics in France!

Kent, I've had many bench picnics in Paris and sat upon the grass in Champs de Mars (now that a portion is legal). Normally, you just hear "bon appetit." Steve Smith is not in today, but I feel certain that he would encourage you to have a proper picnic with wine, while steering clear of any apparent trouble-makers and obeying any signs.

Laura,
Thanks for the answer.

Thank you to each of you for your answers.
Looks like some Paris picnics are in my future.
Maybe even du vin with the picnics, but I won't get rowdy, Nigel.

Love the Luxembourg Garden example. There is one strip of lawn designated for sitting and it is super obvious because it will be thick with sitters while the patch nest to it is bare.

Bicycles are also strictly forbidden in parks. We saw a policeman blowing his whistle as a local whizzed by on a bike and the cop just let him go and then two hapless doofus tourists came tweedling by on those briefcase bikes with the tiny wheels and tall bodies doing about 1 km per hour -- they were of course easy pickings and so instead of just warning them it was taboo they stopped them and appeared to be forcing a fine.

I was told by a French Woman that the you can drink wine etc... at the Tour Eiffel... She claims the only reason the police try to stop you is to make you purchased the overpriced "swill" (her words) from the official vendors. (And they were selling it at the concession stand that day)

I have no idea if she was telling the truth but she was very up in arms over the police trying to take her wine and after she went off on them in French... they waved her right onto the lawn with her friends and did nothing while she had her picnic with multiple bottles of wine (I was sitting next to them and they even shared a glass with us!)

Thank you for starting this thread.

We're headed to Paris next month, and have built into our itinerary several picnic lunches. We'll probably save the bistro meals for most of our dinners.

One of our most memorable meals while in England was sitting on the cement, eating shwarma, with our backs against the fence of closed-for-the-night Leicester Square. So, for us a meal on a park bench will be an upgrade. (Plus, at my age, it's easier to get up from a bench than from the ground.) So looking forward to our pique-niques en Paris!

i also think of Parc Monceau and having great picnics there with friends, all having met up in order to gather on the lawn with various picnic blankets to partake of a picnic together! And Buttes Chaumont is legendary for spring/summer picknicking, although a bit off the beaten path for most travelers.

Zenm - something to think about is that at nicer restaurants, menus (i.e. prix fixed meals) are often much cheaper at lunch, and it stays light REALLY late here (even in May). So you might want to think about having some dinner picnics to allow yourselves some indoor lunches! (of course only if you're interested in some of the nicer places).

It could be worse..it could be Venice. We knew about the no picnic rules, but were nonetheless stunned when 3 guards descended on the poor octonogerian Polish woman sharing our bench when she pulled a tangerine out of her purse. It was pretty ugly.

Looks like the trend is positive on picnics in Paris, with certain restrictions that have been pointed out (look for the no walking on the grass signs).
I have to admit that I'm still a little uneasy about wine with the picnic, although Laura says Steve Smith (a Rick Steves co-author) says pas de problème with du vin.

What a great and timely thread, Kent. We're going in September and a park-bench picnic with a bottle of wine was something we were looking forward to doing. Now, we're a little hesitant too. Maybe we'll case the joint for the first few days before trying it.

And thank you, Laura. Your comments are valued here. This is a great community.

Thank you, Kent, for the lunch/dinner bistro/picnic tip. Might try that.
Michele

Hey Kent,
If this gal can make a living (legally) with picnics and wine, I think that you're fine with the wine!

http://www.thelocal.fr/20150415/paris-picnics-france-entrepreneur-interview

Darren, thank you for the link! Very apt and timely, I think I'll surprise my wife by doing Paris Picnics on our upcoming trip.

Good information, thanks!

Just adding to Carol's note about garbage drawing rats; it draws pigeons as well. They do a ton of damage to old, historic structures, fountains and sculpture so another reason some cities have banned noshing in certain places as well as vendors selling birdseed.