Aix-en-Provence or Avignon without car -- after a week of hiking in Provence?

I think Avignon is the logical choice without a car. A day trip from Avignon to Arles is an easy train ride, and should be on your itinerary. Nimes is also accessible by train, and there is an array of full or half day tours you can book out of the TI that can include Pont du Garde (also a must imho.) You can see Pont du Garde by regular bus, but it’s difficult/time consuming. These are kind of the major “sights” in Provence, and unfortunately Aix is a bit too far east to make a good base. I feel like Aix is a better place to slow down and experience Provence life, but that’s kind of what your hike is.

That said, 4-5 days in either place feels like a long time. I was in Avignon for four days and it was a day (or two) too long for me. I would consider splitting those nights up. Even one night in Aix would be nice, and as you say, get you closer to Marseille so you’re splitting up a long travel day from Avignon.

Lourmarin has direct buses to Aix, and I feel that there is more to do in Aix than in Avignon (even though there are more day trip options from Avignon than from Aix). Cassis is not a suitable day trip from Avignon.
I would lean towards Aix.

We are headed to Aix this September to join a bike group. This is a shorter version of our first canceled Covid trip. After spending a few days in Lyon , I intended to plan for 2 days in Aix before our biking started. In doing the research, the feed back is that it has limited sights. It is a lovely resort town, lots of shopping, and good food. Fun to wander around. I found more startling, RS never mentions it in his France book. I have changed our itinerary to arriving in the late morning and one afternoon to wander.
This was our original plan for Avignon,
October 6 Avignon
Boat Cruise?
Palais des Papes
small boat that shuttles from below the Palais des Papes to the isle Barthelasse for free. You can complete the circuit with a leisurely stroll to the island bridge, with excellent views of the walled city all the way.
Petit Palais (an absolutely amazing collection of early Renaissance paintings on wood. Owned by the Louvre but permanently housed in Avignon).
Pont du Avignon.
Across the river you have a Chartreuse--amazing.
1. Up the hill from there is Fort St-Andre, with the jardin on the other half.
2. Musee Calvet
3. Musee Lapidaire
4. Catherdral Notre Dame-ded- Doms
5. Great panoramic view to check out at Parc des Domes at the top of the city.
Note: I have since read that the Palais des Papes is rather sparse inside.

I believe the major sites of Provence are in Arles and Orange, both on our canceled trip.
Enjoy what ever you decide!

Thanks so much for the advice, everyone.

Maybe as awrzesinski suggests, splitting the stay up is a good idea. But then you do lose that time in moving from one to the other. Hmmmm. I'll think on that.

I wonder if after a week of hiking through the area another 4or 5 days will feel like too much, in general. We've done a few other hiking weeks in different parts of England and then gone to London for 3/4 days each time which felt right. I'd considered Paris for this trip's finale instead of staying in Provence but I've been a few times and for some reason Paris wasn't calling out to me to return the way London always does.

Ellen - enjoy your bike trip!

In September we will be flying into Paris and taking the TGV train straight to Avignon for our first 4 nights in the Provence area. We chose Avignon for our home base precisely because we won't be getting a car until later in our trip and it is most convenient for getting around the area without one.

Our first night there hardly will count as we'll be getting in later after a full day of travel. As mentioned by others, there are easy trains to Arles (for us, we'll spend one full day there, and Nimes (another day, plus perhaps a little time that same day in Avignon itself.) That's 2 days.

For a 3rd day, you can get to Aix e Provence via TGV. There is a TGV train that gets you there in 20 minutes. That might be a good way to for you to spend a very pleasant and full day there. Wander the wonderful markets, have a dreamy lunch, soak in the charm. We stayed there 25 years ago on our honeymoon and loved it, but it isn't as convenient to the earlier places I mentioned, if those are important to you (Arles is great!).

I'm pretty sure you can also get a TGV from Avignon to Marseille--it's just a good hub for getting around carless.

Thanks again. I'm making notes on all of the new info. Just got the RS Provence book so I'll start digging into that to answer some of my questions.

But...if anyone on this thread reads this...any recommendations on a hotel in Avignon? Something mid-range and centrally located ...preferably charming and clean and quiet :)

We just returned from a May trip to Provence. We stayed at Aux Augustins in Avignon in a 1 BR apartment which was quiet and centrally located. The owners, Sabine and Patrick, were very helpful with restaurant recommendations and general advice. We used Avignon as our base for five nights and used train to go to Arles but rented a car to go to Pont du Gard & Nimes. I highly recommend La Cuisine des Copains in Avignon - try the frog legs! Enjoy your trip.