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Base Camp Advice: 6 Weeks in the South of France

Hello fellow travelers!

My husband and I are spending 6 weeks in the South of France and I'm hoping to gather some advice from those who know the region well. We're currently based in Antibes for 2 weeks and absolutely loving it.

We're trying to decide on our next home bases, ideally staying 7–14 days in each location rather than moving every few days. One constraint is that my husband is a pilot and needs to remain within a reasonable drive of Cannes so he can occasionally fly for a client (about 1 hour away)

I'm a chef, so food is a major priority - great markets, wineries, local producers, cooking opportunities, and memorable restaurants are all high on my list. We're in our early 40s and are more interested in food, wine, beach/pool relaxation, hiking, and exploring than nightlife.

Current thoughts:
Part 1: Antibes, specifically the Cap (here for 10 days) love the quiet/calm of the Cap + the bustle of the town nearby.
Part 2: Menton for easy trips into Italy and a different Riviera feel, or perhaps Grimaud/Sainte-Maxime on the western side of the Côte d'Azur - Villefranche is of interest but might be too similar to Antibes
Part 3: A mountain base for hiking, possibly near the Mercantour region
Part 4: Provence (considering areas around Aix, Luberon villages, or elsewhere)

If you had 4 more weeks and wanted a balance of food, wine, markets, hiking, beautiful villages, and day-trip potential while staying within reach of Cannes, where would you base yourselves? Appreciate everyone's perspective!

Merci beaucoup!

Posted by
12643 posts

I will let others help you with finding an area to stay, but I did want to just narrow down your time frame a bit, which will help others. I understand that your husband is a pilot and needs to stay within a reasonable distance of Cannes, but what would you consider a reasonable distance?

For example, my brother was a pilot with Delta before he retired, and when he was on call, he had to be within 2 hours of his hub airport. Is that similar for your husband, or would you prefer him to be closer (or can he be farther)?

Posted by
320 posts

Part 4: We were entranced by Arles. I looked, and it is a 2.5 hour car drive to Cannes, so not sure if that works for you.
If it does, Arles has excellent seafood restaurants. We owned one in the US for 35 years, and were absolutely amazed at the shellfish platter we ordered in an ancient Arles restaurant. Every species you could think of!
And the ancient Roman ruins in the center of town, the weekly market, just magical town for us...
Have fun exploring!

Posted by
41 posts

Perhaps you might like the area around Vaison-la-Romaine, about 45 minutes north of the Luberon and offering easy access to loads of beautiful areas, around Mont Ventoux, in the Dentelles de Montmirail, and north in the Drome Provençal . You’d be in the heart of the Rhône Valley wine villages like Gigondas, Vacqueyras, and Beaumes de Venise. And there are loads of other gorgeous villages to stroll through, most with practically no tourists - I’m thinking of Le Crestet, Le Barroux, Seguret, and many others. Vaison has a great market on Tuesdays and lots of fine restaurants. One problem: it might be too far from Cannes to work for you.

We also enjoyed basing further east, in the Var village of Cotignac, for a week-long stay. We went down to the coast villages and also up to the lavender country in the Valensole. Also easy to get to the Gorges de Verdon, which we thought was stunning, although I gather some posters are less impressed than we were.

And always Aix, where we’ve based several times and which never gets old for us. Huge markets, loads of great restaurants, a young vibe, and great beauty. Among the many easy day trips are Ramatuelle and the coastal villages of Sanary and Bandol. The Luberon villages are also within easy reach.

What a wonderful dilemma to have. I’m not sure you can go wrong whatever you decide. After all, you’re in paradise.

Posted by
3426 posts

chefhayles,
How far away can your husband be, in terms of time? Re Provence. It covers an area of over 12, 000 square miles and includes the Riviera, where you already are. If by Provence you mean the Provence-Alp[es-Cote d'Azur section (Drome, Luberon area, or the Avignon/Arles/Aix area), then you might try using viamichelin.com for ideas of drive times to Cannes from various towns and cities. A caveat. We always plan an hour extra on drives of under 4 hours, and 2 hours on longer drives, to the viamichelin.com times. They don't account for gas/food/comfort stops, and of course traffic can "erupt". Again, Provence is very large, far more than what most Americans think of when they speak of Provence. Look at a map of Provence and you will get the idea.

If the distance works, I might pick Arles for a week and do some day trips from there. The city itself can take 2-3 days to explore. There are many other charming places (e.g. St. Remy de Provence, Nimes, Rousillon....) Having a car is key as there are some drives which will provide the things you are looking for. Enter "Provence" or "Luberon" or "Cotes de Rhone" in the search bar above. Then filter for "travel forum", then "one year or less", for ideas of where to stay. I will add that at this late date you may find you are limited in your lodging options, at least in the reasonably priced places.

Posted by
21 posts

I once had an amazing cooking lesson in Mougins near Cannes! Beautiful village with lovely restaurants!
Tourrette sur Loup near Grasse is also a beautiful spot at the back in the mountains

Posted by
847 posts

It may be tougher to find places in some of the popular places in the Cote d'Azur unless you already have reservations. Especially as it stretches into July. I am going to assume you need to stay within a reasonable distance to the Cannes airport, since it seems your husband may be on call.

A few comments:
* Menton is definitely Italianate. It would work for a change of scenery. I don't think anything is preventing you from exploring Liguria as well. Bordighera is a really nice seaside base, and San Remo is a bit larger (and grittier).

* Villefrance-sur-Mer is much smaller than Antibes and more like a village with a big port. It however is also more Italian influenced than Antibes. Nearby Beaulieu-sur-Mer has a near daiily market but has more of a French, Belle Epoque feel.

* Close by but a different world, Vence and nearby St. Paul de Vence are an alternative. Or you could choose a place like Tourettes-sur-Loup, Mougins or Valbonne.

* St. Raphael is sometimes overlooked. There is wonderful hiking in the Massif Esterel.
* Hyeres is a beautiful town with the Porquerolles just off the coast. Bormes-les-Mimomsa is close by. Not far away is the St. Tropez peninsula -- I think Grimaud was mentioned.

* Before you reach western Provence, you can always choose the Var Villages like Seillans, Bargeme, Le Castellet, Cotignac, Tourtour. This is more a less touristed area and you may be able to find things as you head into peak season, while still having easy day trip potential to lavender fields and the Gorges du Verdon. Markets though are more are distributed.

* There are some nice villages up in the hills, starting from St. Agnes and St Jeannet but higher up there are places like Saorge and La Brigue (they even have a weekly market).

Posted by
972 posts

Yes Chef!
What follows is lengthy. We snowbirded in Antibes for the first time this past winter. And we have some previous experience in the general area as well.

Menton is tres sympa (we loved staying there in decades past) and would put you close to a daytrip in San Remo, which is apparently a great place to eat.
We've rented in St Agnes and can recco it as a quieter base. Saorge is a personal fave for its less-touristy/more-authentic/somewhat-alternative youthful feel.
For your part four, you can't go wrong in Aix.

As for your remaining days in Antibes...je propose:
-daytrips to Le Cannet, the surprisingly village-like hamlet just above Cannes.
-Iles de Lerin off of Cannes, esp. Ile de Honorat. The Monastery there makes killer wine and delicious chocolate! Seriously.

-Valbonne Friday market--best in area (don't miss the socca guy on the periphery). More selection than the Antibes daily covered market.
-Peillon, the most-perched of all the close-by hilltop villages.
-Chez Omar Thursday seafood lunch (recco'd by locals as the day of freshest catch--they were 100% right: incredible paella)
-Charcuterie Lyonnaise--as a chef you will probably agree that this is the best deli in Antibes. L'Epicerie Italien gives them a run for their money with world-class ratatouille and much more.
-Boulangerie Veziano and also nearby Lillian Bonfoi for outdoors brunch.

-L'Etable fromagerie deli--by far the best quality wine selection in town--plz say hi to owner Thiery (I took his photo).
-best Pink Floyd shrine posed as a restaurant: Romagna Mia. This tres casual eatery is run by a quirky couple who worship the band and have related interior decor such as guitars and records. Their truffle pasta is superb and has been written up in a book by a visiting Duke Prof.
-La Boite a Pates is another superb Italian deli. They make their own pasta too.

-arty Biot village (casual cafe Brun is located in a semi-hidden location).
-Haut Cagnes village makes a great 2-fer with the nearby Renoir museum/house.
-Le Bistro de Cure is part of the Garoupe sanctuary/faro site; VG views and VG hiking around the Cap. The Rosarie @Villa Eilenroc has a modest cafe in a fantastic locale, custom-made for either ending your Cap hike or vice-versa.
-Les Vieux Murs has VG food and is run by very friendly folks.
We promised all of the above folks a shout-out in our eventual TR. That promise will be kept.

Good Luck with decisions, Chef!
I am done. The end.

Posted by
3 posts

Many many thanks everyone for your details responses! Truly appreciate the recommendations and excitement towards all of them!

We're adjusting our "base camp" to be more like 50-1 hour as I got a taste of that "splurge of Cote d'azur" traffic that everyone talks about. Appreciate the recommendations as we hone in on our base camp for the remainder if possible 2-4 weeks :)