We have been to Paris several times and have stayed in the 5th and 6th. Next time we visit (in November) we want to stay somewhere a little off the beaten path. We understand the 17th is still "undiscovered" by tourists. We are also interested in Montmartre, but it sounds like there are some pretty gritty areas. We want to spend no more than $200 a night. Can someone provide insights or ideas? Thanks
I've rented a one bedroom apartment on a pedestrian street in the 12th for October. It's near the river and close to the border of the 4th. We are paying 110€ per night for 5 nights. If you stay longer the price decreases. If you are interested in more information, let me know.
You need to think in Euros not dollars. A couple of great apartment agencies that specialize in Montmartre are perfectlyparis.com and feelslikehomeinparis.com Both are hands on agencies; have rented from each twice and the apartments are well prepared and if there are any issues they are immediately responsive. They generally rent by the week or more, but you may be able to book fewer days when there is availability between other renters or they may be flexible.
Montmartre has more tourist business going on; the 17th pretty much has no tourist sites. It varies a lot across the district as does Montmartre -- so the precise street is important. We have stayed in both and liked both.
On my first visit to Paris (1980) I stayed at a pension in the 17th. It was on or around the corner from rue Cardinet. The closest metros were Villiers and Malesherbes, both about a 10 minute walk. I was there because a Parisian friend had booked it for me, though I have no idea why he chose that area. It was a very pleasant mostly residential area, seemed to be mostly working class, there was a good market between the pension and the metro station, but I think there are similarly good markets all over the city. Yes, it was very French, and no one spoke English. There were at least a couple of small mom-and-pop restaurants. We tried one and it was very good. And of course bistros. However, 30-some years later, who knows. In contrast, the main boulevards were lined with luxury apartments (the Nissim de Camondo house is in the area).
You should also ask on Tripadvisor's Paris forum. There are several locals who are very active there and will likely have more information.
Next month my wife and I will be leaving for our 6th trip to Paris. In an earlier life, my wife lived for several years on a small market street in the 17th, rue Poncelet, just off the Avenue des Ternes.
While I was planning our 1st trip to Paris, I found a small hotel on rue Poncelet, just down the block from where my wife used to live. The place is called Hotel des Deux Avenues, and that's where we have stayed every time we have been in Paris.
There are a number of good restaurants within easy walking distance, and a Laundromat about 2 blocks away. The market street, like most in Paris, is wonderful.
It's a 10-minute walk to the Arc de Triomphe. The Ternes Metro is about a 5 minute walk.