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Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles, Paris

Note: I am already being nagged by some of you out there about posting a trip report of our recent marathon jaunt through Portugal, Spain, France, and the Netherlands. Life being what it is, I haven't been able to do that yet, so I will be posting a few reviews first, while I work on the larger reports.

For the Paris leg of our recent trip, we returned to a hotel we enjoyed last year, Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles, 75 rue du Cardinal Lemoine. This was our most expensive hotel this trip. We booked a “classic double with garden view,” for five nights at €300 per night. This is considerably more than we paid last year for a superior double, but all but one of the Paris hotels I checked this year were higher than last year, as much as double in some cases. The only one that wasn’t had no vacancies for our dates when I went back to book. I suspect we can thank the World Rugby Cup for the price increase this year. N.B.: they’re even higher next year, during the Olympics.

Regardless of the price, this has become our favorite hotel in Paris. It’s in the 5th Arrondissement, a little east of the Pantheon. It’s on a moderately busy street, but is tucked away behind a locked door. The hotel itself is comprised of several buildings which surround a lovely garden with plenty of places to sit, relax, have breakfast or an evening drink. It’s quiet and peaceful, in spite of the busy areas nearby. The staff was invariably friendly and helpful.

Our room was small, but lovely. It was on the ground floor, near the reception desk, but at night the door to our hall was closed, blocking any noise. We had a double bed, a wardrobe, one nightstand, another small cupboard with extra shelves, a small table, and one or two chairs. The hotel celebrates local artists, and all areas, including the rooms, are full of paintings, prints, and drawings, many of them for sale. The big window in our room opened onto a back corner of the garden, so we still had our privacy, even with the window open. The en suite bathroom was small, but spotless.

I didn’t notice if our building had an elevator, but the one across the garden did; we could see it when the building's door was open. Oh, I didn’t notice but Stan did: there was no television! We didn’t see one in the public area, either.

Breakfast could be had either in the large breakfast room just off the reception area, or outside in the garden. We tried both; each has its advantages. Breakfast is served by the staff, and various “formules” are available: I chose the “Parisienne,” which included baguette, a large croissant, locally made organic yogurt, fresh fruit, freshly squeezed orange juice, a madeleine, butter, and jams. Stan chose the “Salée” (salty,) with a smaller piece of baguette, ham, cheese, scrambled egg, juice, and a pastry. All breakfasts included coffee or tea. After the first day, Stan declined the egg, and they added extra ham and cheese instead.

Everything was fresh and tasty, and the service was friendly and quick.

The hotel is close to a metro stop and several bus stops. It’s an easy walk to Place Contrescarpe, roiling with crowds and eateries. And it’s only minutes from Rue St Germain, as well.

Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles is a peaceful, well-kept refuge in a convenient location. This one is a keeper for us.

Posted by
517 posts

I stayed there my first European trip 24 years ago. It was lovely then and I’m so glad to hear that it still is!

Posted by
1174 posts

We stayed here in 2018 and loved everything about this hotel!

Posted by
501 posts

I stayed there in 1971. I believe it was under different ownership at the time. It normally would have been way, way above my backpacker budget at the time but they had a less expensive single room in an attic under the eaves (or that is how I remember it). I loved the location and neighborhood. It makes me smile whenever someone mentions the place.

Posted by
6713 posts

We stayed there 20 years ago for 12 nights, the rate was less than half what you just paid. It's a wonderful hotel. Our double was in the larger building, overlooking the courtyard, and there was an elevator. We had breakfast each day at the Cafe Decartes, just up the street, where the waiter was very friendly and treated us to a second glass of wine one afternoon while we were waiting there for laudry to finish. The neighborhood is interesting, lots of dining options, the Mouffetard market, a couple of convenient Metro stations. I've been recommending this hotel for a long time, glad you liked it. It's probably outside our price range now.

Posted by
6542 posts

Dick, when we were there last year, our superior double with breakfast was under €200 per night. I'm hoping that after the Olympics the price settles down again; we will probably return to Paris in 2025.

And we also enjoyed Le Descartes, both this year and last.