Hi, all. We know and love the city of York but we hope this summer for the first time to see the scenic countryside of the hills, moors, etc of Yorkshire. I welcome any tips on best places and how to get around. Also, where to find best real Yorkshire ales. And let's assume we will have an auto. Thanks!
First question - will you have a car, or are you relying on trains and buses? Obviously that will determine what you do and see. The North York Moors are marginally closer than the Yorkshire Dales and tend to be less busy. There are so many good places to visit - but we need to know how you are planning to get about!
The scenery of the Dales is far grander than the Moors.
Masham is likely easy to get to by public transport and hosts two famous breweries, Black Sheep being my favorite poison of choice.
A car is really needed to explore the Dales, but if you are really really resistant do find a day tour.
There are area passes covering trains, look in the National rail site, so maybe the Settle and Carlisle might be a good day out
Richmond is an impressive market town and has a very historic theatre
A trip to Whitby and walk around Robin Hood’s Bay.
Visit the creamery in Hawes, the home of Wensleydale cheese.
Jervaulx, Rievaulx, Bolton, Fountains and Byland Abbeys.
Have a day on the heritage steam railway from Pickering.
The National Coal Mining Museum near Wakefield.
Microbrews have become popular - there are over 400 in Yorkshire, so once you know where you are heading, use google and see what’s nearby.
Hi Steve -
My preference would be to head for the Yorkshire Dales - I’ve nothing against the North Yorkshire Moors, in fact I love them, but they are big and empty in comparison with the Dales, so might not be suitable for a first time explorer. (I think Rick ‘took agin’ the NY Moors for this reason - generally not enough entertainment!).
That said, getting round the Dales is easier with a car. If you are renting one for a couple of days, then no problem. If not then you are reliant on either trains and tours. You can access the Dales via train, but from York it might be easiest to access them via Leeds, a half hour hop from York. Trains from Leeds will take you to the Settle-Carlisle line and Richard is right, it’s worth taking a day to do the whole line there and back as it’s particularly scenic. If you want to do only part of it then Settle, Horton in Ribblesdale and Ribblehead are good jumping off points, but the latter two are in the middle of a lot of nothing very much, prime walking country, so really only suitable if you want to get out and walk. If you do but feel a bit overwhelmed by the great outdoors, then check out ‘Dalesrail’ and ‘Guided Walks from Dalesrail’. The walks are free, but you’ll need food and drink with you and be kitted out to take whatever the Dales throws at you! The walks are of varying distance and cater for all from ‘easy’ to ‘strenuous’. A train stopping at Gargrave will put you within five miles of the deservedly popular Malham with its Cove plus the nearby Gordale Scar is also well worth visiting.
The other place to check out the moors is to catch the train to Keighley and then connect (same station) to Haworth, home of the Brontë sisters, via the privately owned Keighley and Worth Valley Railway (some steam hauled) - timetable needs checking in advance as not the most frequent of services. A tester of a hill takes you up the cobbled Main Street to the Brontë Parsonage Museum and beyond, the open South Yorkshire moors. If you are strong walkers you’ll make Brontë Falls OK and ultimately Top Withens, a ruined farmhouse high on the moors. Isolated and bleak this is clearly the site described as Wuthering Heights - the illustration in the first edition confirms this - but a large stone plaque on the side of the building is at pains to advise even when complete, the building bore no resemblance to the house described in Wuthering Heights. Finger posts here are in both English and Japanese, so popular are the Brontes with the Japanese. There’s a shorter version of the walk if you can get transport (or a taxi - Brontë Taxis are at the bottom of the Main Street near the station) to the village of Stanbury.
If this all sounds a bit too strenuous, a half hour train ride from Leeds will take you to Ilkley, a small, charming old spa town (if I sound overly enthusiastic, it’s probably because I live nearby!). Rising behind the town is the famous Ilkley Moor (of ‘baht ‘at’ fame - look it up!) which is easily accessible and if you know where to look has a wealth of Stone Age relics, rock carvings, etc., and more modern entertainments. Excellent views from the top!
Jennifer is right about the plethora of micro breweries, so wherever you end up look for pubs that describe themselves as ‘Free House’ which means they are not owned by or tied to any particular brewery and thus have a variety of ales from different sources - a good pub will allow you a trial taste prior to buying.
If you want trips from York look up both Mountain Goat and BOB Holidays, to name but two, who do small bus tours in all directions.
Maybe enough to be going on with! Anything else, feel free to ask. One of us will know! Probably!
Ian
P.S. To avoid scarcely concealed giggles at your expense, Keighley is pronounced ‘Keith-ly’ and Howarth as ‘Owuth’ - dropping the lead ‘H’ is optional - to do so makes you sound more like us sloppy speaking locals! Same with ‘Malham’ - sounds locally more like ‘Mal-um’.
On the Settle Carlisle railway most daytime trains have on board volunteer guides, and a refreshment trolley with local produce, and souvenirs of your journey. Well worth using the trolley. All the staff and volunteers are really enthusiastic about sharing the delights of their area with you.
Much of the rail route has no roads beside it, so is by far the best way to see the route.
It has not yet been announced if the Staycation Express is returning for this year. It's a locomotive hauled charter train which supplements the regular services, at special but very reasonable fares. That train even includes a restaurant car- to have a full meal on as you travel- again all freshly made on the train with local produce.
Ianandjulie...thanks for the pronunciation guide! I listen to some audiobooks by a British author who has a few books set in Yorkshire and I was shocked when I first listened to one set in Haworth and heard how the narrator pronounced it. For years I'd always thought it was Hay-worth. I'll drop the "H" when I visit, lol!! And Keighley really threw me when the narrator said Keith-ley. I'd read the print book several times so knew how it was spelled, but again not how it was pronounced.
Another vote for the mining museum ,an utter bargain.
Riddlehead station has a small museumn and cafe is is 10 mins walk to the The Station pub ,which I may indulge in(n).
The Old Hill Inn is a bit further and a classic country pub with outstanding food and do accomodation.
Be harded pressed to pick a bad bit of the Dales ,it's a classic landscape.
A bit of reading ..
Stuart Maconie ,Of Pies and Prejudice it's a wry journey round the North
Thanks, friends, for all the wonderful info so quickly. Assuming we will be able to explore Yorkshire and beyond by auto. Please keep the tips coming! Thanks again.
I also prefer the Dales over the Moors. We stayed in Settle (as it's our family name) and thoroughly enjoyed the area staying in B&Bs. We did not do the Settle to Carlise train all the way, instead stopping at Appleby. This stop is not as picturesque as the others place you will find in the Dales. If you decide not to take the train, do go visit the Settle railway station and the Ribblehead viaduct. If you decide to go towards the Moors, then you may want to stop in Whitby and Robin Hoods Bay.
Pam -
Wait til you learn how ‘Slaithwaite’ is pronounced!
Ian
Okay, Ian, I'll bite - how is ‘Slaithwaite’ pronounced? :)
I am bookmarking this thread for when I head back to England in 2024. Yorkshire was one of my favorite places and I can't wait to revisit it. So many great ideas here!
Excellent Nick! Appletreewick is just up the road from me and I’m never sure exactly how to pronounce it! Let’s just say opinion is divided. I’ll point out further pronunciation troubles with Barnoldswick which is in Lancashire, if only to provide evidence of it’s not just Yorkshire folk being wilful! Nick, you clearly know Wharfedale and while I’m not quite as bold about Burnsall being the most beautiful village in England, at its best it’s idyllic!
Mardee - and Steve come to that - if you are bookmarking this for 2024, I forgot to mention Fountains Abbey and environs which is a good day out and within striking distance of York. If we are all spared and you think I might be able to help at all re your 2024 trip nearer the time, please feel free to get in touch, either here on the forum or by DM.
Ian
Barnoldswick might count as Yorkshire outside Yorkshire.
Last time I was there asked for the Yorkshire Post in the newsagents and he's shushed me saying would get arrows in the back for my trouble.
Place name troubles...
Oughtibridge.
Slawit, gets a mention in "Of Pies and Prejudice"
funny enough
While not in Yorkshire...Northumberland I think? I was also shocked to find out Alnwick was "Annick". The Duchess has installed a "swing garden" which is populated with tulips during that season and I hope to be able to swing in the tulips in May! Mardee...make a note!
But then I live in Idaho where Clarkia is Clark-ee and Kooskia is Koos-kee and we won't even mention that no one outside of Idaho pronounces the state capitol correctly.
Very entertaining thread! Thanks Steve although we've pulled it a little off target, lol.
There's 4 recognized ways but you nailed the local one.
Which is more than Leeds based Yorkshire tv has done a few times
The Dales are fascinating, but definitely allow one day (preferably an atmospheric gray day) for a trip to Whitby and Whitby Abbey. Park by the abbey, explore the ruins, then walk down the 199 steps to the town. Have lunch at White Horse and Griffin before climbing back up to the abbey. If you have another two hours to spare, check out either Staithes or Robin Hood's Bay. Both are less than ten miles from Whitby.
Slaithwaite is Slough-IT and it has an excellent artisan bakery - The Handmade Bakery overlooking the canal.
Pam - I’ve been watching videos of people walking the Appalachian Trail and lost count of my “the who the what now?” moments with place names. I reckon we have an excuse because of time but the USA has just excellently bonkers names (not to mention pronunciation of same) and probably a greater profusion because, for starters, it’s so much bigger and thus has more opportunity. I mean basic ones like Arkansas or Albuquerque for starters….
No Jennifer, I think you have it wrong. It’s “t’ canal”! 😂😂
Ian
whereas in the Black Country and Brummiegum it is 't' cut!
ianandjulie, thanks for mentioning the mountain goat tours from York. After you mentioned them, l took a look at the website and just booked the North York Moors & Whitby tour. I’ll be in York for 5 nights in May. This tour looks like a great way to see some scenery. It will be my first tour ever. I figured I could try one for a day. 😊
Jennifer - your pronunciation of Slaithwaite relies on the person knowing how to pronounce Slough!
Barnoldswick (Barlick) is a special case. It was historically always in West Yorkshire but was moved administratively into Lancashire in 1974.
How about Claughton? There are 3 villages in the north west, each pronounced differently. One is Clyton, one Clawton and one Clafton.
By the way the Mountain Goat are a Lake District Tour company of long standing with a very high reputation.
It was interesting to see that they have expanded to Yorkshire.
And also, it seems, into North Wales from Manchester, Liverpool and Chester
They must be the only company whose prices have come down, comparing the current website to last year's brochure.
If you don't have a car they are a very good way to explore the remoter parts of the Lake District, such as Eskdale and Wasdale, which are hard to reach if you are staying in the Central Lakes, also a great way to see the high (by our standards) passes like Wrynose and Hardknott which are switch back, single track roads, with gradients of up to 1:4 (25%).
They also do day tours from the Lakes to Hadrian's Wall, and into the Yorkshire Dales and into south west Scotland including the Annandale Distillery, near Annan.
That distillery does tours and is easily accessible (signposted) from the M74 England to Scotland route.
The Yorkshire Dales trip includes the Hawes Creamery, and is very good value for the ground covered.
Carrie -
Anything that involves Whitby is a good day out! Hope you enjoy the trip - hopefully they’ll take in Whitby Abbey and if you get a bit of time up there, the nearby St Mary’s Church has an interesting interior if it’s open. If you are a fan of jet jewellery, there’s plenty of opportunity in the small streets beneath the ‘199 steps’. The same could be said for kippers and goth outfits too! (I’m not sure I could now carry off the leather look, or the black lipstick, and my days of having suitable hair are long gone!).
Ian