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Yorkshire Dales

Where would be a good place to be a base in Yorkshire Dales with good train and buses? I'm thinking Skipton or Grassington.
I like the idea of the The Settle - Carlisle Railway. Maybe riding the train or just walking to see it cross the stone bridge...where is that? My main thing is to see the Ancient dry-stone walls and field barns but where is that? Seen pictures of things but not sure where they are.
I welcome advice. Except telling us to drive...which we won't be doing. We will be taking trains and buses. I'd love to hear from others that have traveled this way. Thanks

Posted by
1797 posts

I'd go for Settle too - lots of good walking from the doorstep - and plenty of stone walls! One of the nicest walks is from Settle to Austwick across the fields and then onto Clapham. This is a slightly different variation.
From Clapham there is a good walk up Cave Dale to Ingleborough Cave.

Either walk back or catch the bus back. It is service 581. Check the timetable carefully as it isn't that frequent now.

You could also use the bus to go to Ingleton for the waterfalls walk. This is a very popular walk along the valleys of the River Twiss and Doe. Information leaflet here. Most people do the walk clockwise, and it is best to 'go with the flow' as the path isn't that wide and if you try going the otherway you will spend ages waiting to let others pass.

For Kernow's benefit, field barns are probably more common further north in Swaledale where nearly every field had one. The cows could be kept in the bottom over the winter with hay for food stored above. Now most are disused although many have been restored as very expensive upmarket houses... (Swaledale isn't as good by public transport.)

The Settle Carlisle line is definitely worth doing as it goes through some stunning scenery. (although Ribblehead Viaduct is a bit disappointing when you go over it on the train as you don't see much! The guard does normally announce and tell you that you are going acroiss it.) There is information about a walk from Ribblehead Station here which will give you good views of the viaduct. There is some more general information here.

How long are you planning for the Dales?

Posted by
470 posts

Swaledale, amongst others, is known for its field barns
You will see examples on the Wikipedia for Swaledale

Posted by
1274 posts

Hi Shelley -

If it’s rail and bus links that are a determining factor, then either Skipton, known as ‘The Gateway to the Dales’ or Settle would be ideal. Both have railway and bus links and are major (a relative term) towns in the area. Skipton has a good castle too. If you wanted to stay in a more rural locale, then Gargrave has a station and oddly for such a small place, a Premier Inn. Gargrave is only a shortish distance from Malham which has bus access, or a relatively gentle five and a bit mile walk along the Pennine Way connects the two.

Look also, dependent on when you are going, for the Dalesbus services. These generally run March to October in the main and are designed to get walkers to the remote Dales and back and conversely people who live in remoter villages to major towns for shopping etc. Thus they tend to be infrequent with services early morning and mid to late afternoon returns. There are also more standard bus services too, but overall demand means they are not frequent and indeed may not run every day, so careful timetable scrutiny is advised!

I would agree that Swaledale is the best place to see the field barns (or ‘cow ‘usses’ or ‘cow ‘ouses’ as they are locally known, which gives a clue to their original purpose), but there are still some higher up Wharfedale. Both Swaledale and upper Wharfedale are only accessible by bus, having no rail links. The drystone walls are ubiquitous in Yorkshire and once out of town in any of the dales they are everywhere you look!

Beware places that sound great on the Settle to Carlisle railway - for instance, Dent is a brilliant village, but is a long five miles from the station (when asked why the station is not nearer the town, the local laconic response tends to be “‘appen they wanted it near t’railway”) and Ribblehead is perfect for visiting the viaduct, but there’s nothing else there much other than the Station Inn, which does do accommodation but you are otherwise in the middle of (glorious) nothing very much!

If I can be of further help, living fairly locally, please feel free as ask here or by Personal Message. Hope you get something sorted that meets your needs.

Ian

Posted by
470 posts

Not only is Dent a long way from Dent Station it's about 600 feet lower in elevation

Posted by
982 posts

I also agree Settle will be a great base for the Dales that would have some degree of transportation. The Settle railway station has been beautified and restored and it is quite stunning. It's just a walk around the corner from the market town where there is a Tourism information office. We took the train from Settle to Appleby-in-Westmorland one summer day. I didn't find Appleby as quaint or as scenic as some other places in the Dales, but the train ride was fun - although being on the train you don't get to see much of the viaduct. As for the Viaduct itself, it may be hard to get to without a car, but it is quite stunning with sheep and dry walls in the background making for a great photo. There is also a fascinating history of how it was built. I have been to Settle about five times now over the years (my husband's family originally came from there) and it is lovely. We stayed in B&B's nearby but had a car.

Posted by
373 posts

Thanks all for the replies. Helpful information about the buses. I had just discovered the Dales Bus's.

Are there stone walls all around in the area? A good concentration of them? I did discover Ingleton today doing research. It has a lovely viaduct and a Waterfall walk. Both something we'd enjoy. Thank you for the name. Ripplehead Viaduct. To be honest, I think if I could just see the viaduct, possibly time it to get a pic of a train going over, would be awesome! Is it only the steam trains that go on that line? The field barns, was a picture I saw of the fields and a bunch of barns below. The stone walls in the picture too. Sigh. looks so lovely and inviting. I just have to explore! Ha Ha. I appreciate all your willingness to give us some information as we plan our trip. Thanks :)

Posted by
1797 posts

Nearly all the trains going across Ribblehead Viaduct with be small two car units. The only steam trains will be on special charters. Check this website for dates once the 2023 dates are up. If you are lucky you may get a few diesel hauled freight trains. Steam trains are much more photogenic and you get lots of photographers out for them, hence all the pictures of Ribblehead show steam trains.

You will find stone walls everywhere. The farmers used stones cleared from the fields to build them - and there are a lot of stones everywhere! If you do the Settle to Austwick walk there will be a lot of stiles over the walls. Always use the stiles and don't try and climb the walls. Many have been there for hundreds of years and farmers do get miffed when thoughtless people damage them....

Posted by
2700 posts

About six years ago we traveled through the Yorkshire Dales and other locations in northern England. We found it very easy to get around by train and bus. We are dying to do it again.

We based in Grassington and Helmsley in the Dales. Both were good, but we particularly loved Grassington. There are plenty of hikes right from town. It’s small and charming and there are a fair number of restaurants and pubs. We had a wonderful time there.

Posted by
1161 posts

Also near Ribblehead.
There's a cafe at the station and a small museumn.
The Station pub is much improved.
The outstanding Old Hill Inn is close enough to definitely walk too, excellent food and they do accomodation now too.

Jordas Cave ,lies up Kingsdale from the" waterfalls walk"
It's an impressive little place that never got developed as a show cave

Posted by
16028 posts

For travel without a car, perhaps one of these options offered by HF Holidays would suit your interests:

https://www.hfholidays.co.uk/holidays-and-tours/discovery-walks-malhamdale-3?format=pdf&vid=820

https://www.hfholidays.co.uk/holidays-and-tours/discovery-walks-malhamdale-4?format=pdf&vid=819

HF Holidays is not a tour company. It is a member-owned cooperative that owns or leases manor houses at various locations around the UK, and offers all-inclusive programs based on guided walking and various interests such as music, yoga, photography, or others. The accommodations are very nice and the included meals are high quality. Non-members are welcome ( with a small supplement). We have enjoyed a number of their short holidays, especially the camaraderie of the other guests at the evening social hour.

Here is a complete list of the offerings at this location:

https://www.hfholidays.co.uk/holidays-and-tours#/holidays?FC.Our%20Country%20Houses=Newfield%20Hall,%20Southern%20Yorkshire%20Dales&sort=ordering%7CASC&page=1

The country house Newfield Hall is a short taxi ride from the Skipton train station.

https://www.hfholidays.co.uk/holidays-and-tours/guided-walking-malhamdale-4

They also have programs that offer less walking and more guided sightseeing, called Discovery tours:

https://www.hfholidays.co.uk/holidays-and-tours/yorkshire-dales-malhamdale-discovery-tour-4

I posted this one location because it seems to include many of the locations mentioned in the responses to your post.. They also have another country house in the Western Yorkshire Dales near Sedburgh.

https://www.hfholidays.co.uk/country-houses/locations/sedbergh-yorkshire-dales

Posted by
373 posts

Thanks everyone. I'm trying to get my timeline for how many days. I'm in agreement with lots. and saying that Settle might be the place to " settle" Ha ha. Mainly because then we could take the bus and go to Ingleton waterfall trail and the Viaduct, then ride a bus to see more scenery. Then another day head toward's Skipton and visit the castle and whatever else I discover. :)
We will be coming via Carlisle, and as i looked it up on the Northern, it doesn't appear to go directly. Am I looking at the wrong site?

Should we plan 2 full days or 3 . I'm just not sure.... Thanks

Posted by
32519 posts

I haven't seen what date these things will be so I just had a look on the National Rail website - the official home of train times in the UK.

I used next week.

Are you aware of the line closure because of the train derailment last month? That's why there's a change - it is a replacement bus service part way then the train.

Here's the official notice:
Route affected
Between Carlisle and Leeds / Skipton / Newcastle / Morpeth

TOC(s) affected
Northern;
Description
A freight train derailed in the Carlisle area last month, resulting in the lines towards Hexham and Settle being blocked in both directions. Northern trains on the Carlisle - Newcastle and the Carlisle - Skipton / Leeds routes are being amended.

Recovery of the damaged freight train, and repairs to the railway line, have commenced and will continue for several days. Disruption is expected until 06:00 on Wednesday 7 November.

Daily service changes:

Carlisle - Newcastle: Where possible, services from Carlisle will start at Haltwhistle, and services from Newcastle will terminate at Haltwhistle. Replacement bus services will run between Carlisle and Haltwhistle in both directions.

Carlisle - Leeds / Skipton: Where possible, a train service will operate between Leeds / Skipton and Appleby. Langwathby, Lazonby & Kirkoswald and Armathwaite will not receive a train service. Replacement bus services will run between Carlisle and Appleby in both directions.

Services on both affected routes are still subject to short notice cancellations.

Services that run between Carlisle and Whitehaven / Barrow and between Hexham and Newcastle are not affected by this disruption.

Travelling on Saturday 19 November?

Customers are advised NOT TO TRAVEL between Haltwhistle and Carlisle as no alternative transport is available. Passengers are advised to make their own travel arrangements. For details regarding refunds please visit here.

Stagecoach will operate a bus service between Haltwhistle and Carlisle, route number 685. Northern tickets are not valid on the bus. Additional bus tickets will be required.

Alternative travel suggestions:

For the duration of the line closure, customers are advised to use the advertised replacement bus services between Carlisle and Haltwhistle, and Carlisle and Appleby in both directions. Where possible, two buses will operate between Appleby and Carlisle in each direction, one to go direct and one to call at intermediate stations.

Customers travelling between Carlisle and Skipton / Keighley can use their tickets on Avanti West Coast and TransPennine Express services between Carlisle and Lancaster. Customers can then board a Northern service to / from Lancaster.

Customers travelling between Carlisle and Leeds can use their tickets on Avanti West Coast and TransPennine Express services between Carlisle and Lancaster / Preston. Customers can then board a Northern service to / from Leeds.

Latest background information:

The derailment near Carlisle, which involved one locomotive hauling 14 wagons, each filled with 80 tonnes of powdered cement, happened on Wednesday 19 October as it travelled between Clitheroe and Carlisle. It caused significant damage to a bridge, track and line side equipment including signalling and points cabling.

Since then the railway has been closed in both directions.

Over the weekend of 12 and 13 November, Network Rail used an 800-tonne crane to successfully lift the remaining derailed vehicles over the tracks at Petteril Bridge junction. They were then loaded onto the back of lorries and taken away.

(continued below)

Posted by
32519 posts

(continued from above)

Network Rail’s Works Delivery team are now ramping up railway repairs following completion of the recovery phase. 80 metres of damaged track need to be replaced, 400 metres of cabling will be installed for signals and points, bridge foundations eroded in the river Petteril are to be secured with 100 tonnes of stone, and 41 metres of destroyed bridge parapet will be rebuilt.

It’s hoped this work will be complete by late November / early December so train services can resume on the Tyne Valley and Settle to Carlisle lines.

Check before you travel:
You can check your journey up to and including Saturday 26 November by using the National Rail Enquiries real-time Journey Planner. For dates from Sunday 27 November, please check back nearer to your day of travel as these will be updated soon.

Posted by
1797 posts

I can't remember when you are going to be in England.

I’m assuming you are thinking of catching the train from Haltwhistle to Carlisle and changing there onto the train for Settle?

I’ve used the Northern Railway website and tried a spoof booking for 11th January. As long as I ask it to route me via Carlisle, it gives me train times and prices.

If you don’t tell it to go via Carlisle, it can’t find a route.