Yorkshire and York

In 2017 we did a four week drive tour of England (outside London) and S. Wales.
We did three nights in York and found it one of our favorite cities in the UK. Also, visited the Yorkshire Moors after a night at Pickering then on to Whitby. After York we did two nights in Durham, which was great. Then we did Hadrian's Wall staying at Haltwhistle.

Also we visited the Castle Howard, that was good.

are you going to Thirsk to see the Herriot museum? We did that a few years ago and thought it was a great trip! The better way to get there is by bus from York. The route is a bit circuitous since it goes thru some towns along the way but it's all nice scenery, and drops you off in the market square perhaps 100 yards from the museum. The train is an alternative but the station is more than a mile from the museum.

Last week in May is half term holiday for English schools so will be busy everywhere. I’d suggest putting back a week and come first/second week in June instead.

I am assuming you are planning to do the North York Moors railway from your base in York. This is going to be a good 80 minutes on the bus to get to Pickering, which could make it a long day.

Are you committeed to Yorkshire dales and have you thought about exchanging Yorkshire Dales for North York Moors? Pickering or Helmsley would work well as a base and have good bus connections. The Moors do tend to be less touristy/buy and scenically are as good. You also have some very pretty villages, as well as ruined castles (Pickering, Helmsley, Scarborough) and the lovely ruined Rievaulx Abbey is walkable from Helmsley. Eden Camp on the outskirts of Malton is a fascinating placce to visit and would easily fill a day.

I would opt on balance for Memorial Day. The reason being that the weather stands a very good chance of being very good, but without the full heat of summer, and you are unlikely around there to find places to stay with aircon.
The flip side it's school half term and Memorial Day is also the second Bank Holiday of May.

Whereas 4 July is about 2 weeks before Summer School Holidays, so just a bit off the peak yet. But if it is another long hot summer it could make those walks that bit more challenging.

So swings and roundabouts.

Settle vs Grassington. That isn't a fair question.

Grassington you will not run out of walks, between the three bus routes, and you have Skipton on your doorstep.

Settle is more of a town, but the one bus route- the 580/581- (Lancaster) to Kirkby Lonsdale to Ingleton to Skipton. Not to say there aren't a lot of walks from that route- especially heading west towards Ingleton- even over the County border into what is now Westmorland and Devils Bridge/Kirkby Lonsdale. You would probably supplement that bus route with the train up to Horton in Ribblesdale, Ribblehead or Dent. Horton especially has some cracking walking.

My casting vote would be Grassington, but it's a 51%:49% vote. For me, very personally, it is swung by one or two very personal, special, meaningful places there. On the bus Grassington is better- with a car a bit further up dale at Kettlewell is that little bit nicer.

I'll be interested to see what Wasleys says as she will probably be more even headed.

Do a Saturday transfer to or from York and there is the special scenic double decker #59 bus from Skipton to Harrogate for the train to/from York.

Hey, there! I'm just chiming in to say that my husband and I had a very similar conversation recently where I also walked away feeling so much more clarity that our travel style is really being in a place and really getting to know it, rather than trying to fit in multiple places at once.

In my frenzy of excitement planning our first trip to Europe together for next year, I kept making the plans bigger, bigger, bigger. With the help of the forum, I was able to scale back somewhat and whittled it down to London, York, Edinburgh. But something kept not sitting exactly right. It just began really feeling like I was planning TWO trips (London and Edinburgh) instead of one.

And so now we're pretty firmly planning only London and York ... something like 11 days London, with 3 days in York in the middle.

I just need to trust that there will be ample return trips where all the other places can have their ample time too (Belgium, the Netherlands, Scotland, Norway, Dublin + Belfast, Budapest, Estonia ... )!

Bookmarking this one. Can’t wait to see all the responses. I did a day trip to the Dales and Moors this past May and fell in love with the countryside, the stonewalls, and all the sheep. I will go back at some point.

If you don’t already have it, Rough Guides has a great book on Yorkshire:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1789197112/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for this post!
My husband and I have also been talking about a Yorkshire holiday. Before we left on our recent UK trip, I was lamenting that we'd only return to York with our daughter and would not have time to venture around the surrounding area. (We are big All Creature's Great and Small fans.) Mardee's planning for that area tickled the Yorkshire idea even further.

The day before we left on our recent trip, we visited with friends who would stay in our home while we were gone. We found out that one of their grandparents was from York--a recent discovery by their son. Since we link genealogy with almost every trip, we couldn't imagine not hopping on a plane immediately. It sounds as if they might be interested in travelling to York with us. We're happy to return to the city. I probably will do most of the planning. Soooo, I will definitely bookmark this thread, as well.

Although 4/5 of our major trips---UK 3x, Ireland 2x; and a family history/Ger/Fr/Lux (Lux citizenship trip for husband & adult kids) were mostly 1-4 days in a location, we did have an ancestry trip to Germany in 2015. We had great trips with all those itineraries; however, the 2015 trip stands out.

We lucked out with an $42 airbnb on the upper floor of a teacher's home near Bad Munstereifel (where my husband's ggrandparents married). We spent 2 weeks coming "home" from 6 nearby ancestral villages, quick trips to Koln, Bonn, and Achten, and a weekend in Luxembourg with friends. We often refer to that trip and the ideal accommodation---location for our activities, length & $$.

Go with your plan! Be sure to include Durham in any trip to the North!

As others have pointed out, There is Whitweek in England (around Memorial Day) when schools are out. The summer school break starts around mid-July and goes through to September. Avoid those dates if you can. I have had good luck with the weather in the early part of June and the first two weeks of July. (these are my preferred travel dates for the UK and I am an ex-pat). June flowers are in full bloom and the countryside looks beautiful with long days. Yorkshire is a great area to explore. I was just there a few months ago.

We landed at Leeds/Bradford a couple of months ago. I will say this airport is my least favorite of all UK airports. It felt chaotic at the luggage area (it was a total free-for-all. Do check all baggage areas as there are no flight numbers associated with any baggage carousel. (we found our luggage thrown in a corner). Trying to get a taxi to the railway station in Leeds is another experience. You go to a counter outside of the terminal to book a taxi. Then the driver walks across the parking lot about 20 minutes later and calls out your name. It was an interesting system for sure. We immediately took a train from Leeds to York to stay. I would almost tell you to go through LHR and take the train into York. (much better than transferring through Dublin and hopping over to Leeds) I don't think you will save much time at all.

The North Yorkshire Moors Railway will take you a full day. It is quite a slow train to Whitby. The schedule will give you enough hours to go to the Abbey and explore the harbor where you can eat fish and chips. Just watch the Seagulls they are huge and aggressive. The steam trains often break down, so the train may be changed at the last minute to a diesel. The stations are lovely and it is a great day out.

There is so much to explore in this area of England. It is a great idea to focus on this area rather than trying to see all of England in one trip. Driving is best as public transportation has limitations in the Dales but I would not pick up a car until I left York.

Hannah, you describe me exactly! I am so guilty of falling in love with these places and trying to find a way to see as much as I can in one trip, but I really want to slow it down and soak it all in this next trip. My second fault- in this case especially - is I then put my initial thoughts on the forum and get the most wonderful input, before I realizing, with my adult child’s purposeful clarifying- what is the best option. When we talked about this better plan, I made them both laugh when I said “but I hope the folks on my RS forum don’t get impatient with me after they shared so much for Northumberland. It’s not all for naught! I’m saving all their suggestions! “😊

John, we do want to see Thirsk and the Harriot museum. Love the books and the show! I think Stuart also mentioned the bus route to take there. Great heads up, thank you.

Wasleys, no, we aren’t committed to the Dales over the Moors at all. I’m curious about your suggestion for basing over in the Moors; I hadn’t considered that. I’m thought the Dales first because I just thought the ease of transfer from the airport would be good and well, just because I heard about the beautiful landscape of the Dales. Plus the scenery in the All Creatures show…my goodness! I’d love to hear more/read more about the Moors as a potential base. We’ll have probably 10-11 days, 9 on the ground to see the area.

Mpaulynsettle, thanks for the advice about the airport. We’re light packers and try to only use carryon, but the taxi system sounds kind of crazy! In another thread of mine I believe it was mentioned by Stuart to use an air link bus to Leeds. Would this be better than a taxi?

Thanks everyone for your continued ideas and discussion! I just need to win the lottery and buy a second home in England and all my travel plans there would be solved! 😊

Yes, you may want to try the Airlink. I have not tried it, but it may well be a better option.

Mustlovedogs Um, so I (sheepishly) did the exact same thing ... I truly thought we were including Belgium in this first trip! I couldn't have imagined NOT including Bruges for our first trip together to Europe! And then, after deciding to break up Belgium and the UK into separate trips, but not knowing which we'd do first, I began exploring The Netherlands to do along with Belgium.

And soooo, like you, thanks to the forum and my own initial absolute confusion, I now have a massive headstart on planning for future trips 🤪

(Also, have you noticed I'm slipping this info quietly into your thread because, like you, I'm having a whole thing about what everyone will think after providing such generous help! 🥴🫣😬)

Hannah, and mustlovedogs, no one really minds if you turn the forum advice upside down. It's your vacation, it is what it says on the tin - advice. It's not as if you paid for the advice, at a TA.
The best moments are often the unplanned ones.
At the moment there is a bit of heavy duty scolding going on of another forum member for not following advice. There are reasons for that, but some of the reactions are a bit too far IMO.
In that case, an isolated one, just ignore the heavier posts.

I for one, don't mind mustlovedogs changing at all. That is what trip planning is there for. (s)he knows their travel style.

I won't tell the OP do this or that walk, that to me is spoiling it and micro planning it.

“It's not as if you paid for the advice”

Not by monetary payment, but please know ya’ll are being “paid” by my feelings of gratitude and immense respect for your kindness! 😊

The North York Moors are less popular with foreign visitors who tend to head for the Dales which they have heard about. They do tend to be less busy but have a lot going for them. The only potential downside may be they may not be so easy to explore by public transport and a car helps get into the more isolated areas. You have to work harder at getting to know them...

Are you committeed to Yorkshire dales and have you thought about exchanging Yorkshire Dales for North York Moors? Pickering or Helmsley would work well as a base and have good bus connections. The Moors do tend to be less touristy/buy and scenically are as good. You also have some very pretty villages, as well as ruined castles (Pickering, Helmsley, Scarborough) and the lovely ruined Rievaulx Abbey is walkable from Helmsley. Eden Camp on the outskirts of Malton is a fascinating placce to visit and would easily fill a day.

Mustlovedogs, I'm jumping in here to agree with what wasleys is saying. I'm actually staying in Helmsley for 7 nights, which will get me to places in the Dales, but is also very close to Pickering, York and Whitby along with the rest of the North Yorkshire moors. Since you really want to walk, it makes more sense (imo) to stay outside of York. That was my rationale at least. :)

I will also offer up this as a possible lodging suggestion. Someone here on the forum recommended it, and so I booked a self-catering 1 bedroom cottage in Helmsley (outside of town), with a kitchen, living room, fireplace, bedroom, dining area, washer!!! and garden in back. The cost was £500 for 7 nights. The owner has been prompt to email and the place sounds really nice. They do have larger cottages, so you might want to check them out. I'm staying in Foxglove Cottage. https://laskill.co.uk/

Hi Mustlovedogs -

Given that LBA is my local airport (about five miles from home) and I used it as recently as last night, flying in late from Amsterdam (origin in Bangkok) I feel I must weigh in on the subject.

It’s bloody awful.

Leeds Bradford International Airport (or as its illuminated sign last night read, Leeds Bra****d) is a jumped up airfield. It’s primary purpose is to get business people about the country although there is currently no flight to London (go figure), and to get the holidaying hordes to the Mediterranean resorts, plus the other odd destination almost by luck than management.

It is a stranger to escalators and lifts for the most part. The baggage reclaim area is tiny, so if more than three flights arrive at once it gets absolutely rammed (there are I think only three belts), although I noted that there are now screens displaying which belt is serving which flight (this easy for us because there were no other flights at that hour). The walk to the U.K. border/passport control is upstairs and maximises the available walking distance from any point on the tarmac. The baggage reclaim is back downstairs. It’s tired and looks a bit scruffy.

All this said, it is very popular, even with me. What it needs is a brand new terminal building and there were plans for that pre Covid but post Covid this reasonable plan was scrapped in favour of refurbishing and extending the current terminal (I have the uncomfortable feeling this may end up putting lipstick on a pig).

The car parking charges are extortionate, the on site taxi firm is overpriced and there is no rail link, something that everybody talks about but ultimately kicks down the road or fails to address properly. And given that it’s Britain’s highest airport, it’s the one that is most frequently closed by bad weather and/or poor visibility.

Any positives? A couple. There are airport buses which will take you to major towns and cities (I’d go for Leeds centre if I were you - lots more choice from there). The nearest rail link to Leeds or Bradford is at Guiseley which the Leeds airport bus serves, but if you were heading for Leeds I’d stay on the bus. You don’t have to use the on site taxis. We organised a local, cheaper one last night, although I don’t think any of them qualify as cheap, especially when you start with the six pound charge for picking up in the drop off zone. Locals like myself know of a free pick up/drop off zone, but it’s ten minutes walk away and frankly at dead of night too horrific and problematic for even us to contemplate last night. Finally, if all else fails, I’m nearby if you are in a hole! Forewarned is forearmed though I think.

As for which areas to consider, I’m a Dales man myself, although I bow to no man in my love of the North Yorkshire Moors. As Wasleys says they take a bit of time to get to know. The Dales however has it all going on, so you’d be spoilt for choice when considering walks. If you need any advice on walks, alternate taxis (I noted a couple of Uber taxis last night for instance), or help getting to or from LBIA (don’t forget the ‘I’!) feel free to ask here or to direct message me.

Ian

Thats a really nice offer there Ian you will be ruining our rep as curmudgeons.
That said those of a certain age this has a few " in " jokes.

https://youtu.be/Rm6VC5gdaFA?si=aHomL85ybZJEVdb0

Ian, such a nice thing of you to offer and to take time to share all this information. I have been checking into what wasleys suggested in terms of centering ourselves in the Moors. For example, I already easily jotted down 7 days of different things to do there -proximity to the coast is another huge draw. As she mentioned like most foreign visitors, I have a bit more familiarity with the Dales - thanks to All Creatures Great and Small and the James Herriot books.

I really like the thought of Pickering and just enjoying slowly getting to know the area of the Moors. That link to sloweurope has had a lot of influence! In terms of LBIA, it does seem like the best airport option. I checked Manchester, but goodness the return flights back to the US were awful- so loooonggg. Maybe I am missing something there.

I saw there are a few taxi services that run out of Pickering and will do airport transfers (maybe as well as any place a bus cannot take us, for example, my daughter said she’d love to do a short horseback riding trek and I doubt we could take a bus to a stable). Thoughts on the potential of doing this?

I am going to need to pull myself away from thinking about this - at least until the cooking process is done- or my Thanksgiving dinner will never happen! 😂 I must say, though, I am thankful to all you folks on this forum who so graciously share your experiences, advice, knowledge and time!

There are a couple of pony trekking places near Pickering:

Bilsdale Riding Centre in Hawnby near Helmsley. They are also on Facebook.

Friars Hill in Sinnington between Pickering and Heln=msley

Boltby Pony Trekking and Trail Riding Centre near Thirsk is a lot further, but if you are interested in James Herriot, it would tie in with a visit to The World of James Herriot in tie in with a visit to the World of James Herriot in Thirsk.

The approach of staying in an area for walks for 5 to 7 days is what I have been doing for a few years and heartily it. It gives time for walks and to slow down and get to know an area. I often do a 2 to 4 hour walk in the morning and then visit something or an area in the afternoon. I have done Dartmoor, the Peak District, the Yorkshire Dales and Hadrian's wall (and will go back again since there are still many walks). I have used a car each time as many walks start in the middle of nowhere. It makes things easier.

In the Dales I stayed in Hawes and enjoyed it, but next time I will stay closer to the southern edge. The Wensleydale Creamery (Wallace and Grommet reference) is in Hawes and they make great cheese. I highly recommend it.

Wasleys, thank you for those links. We definitely want to do this. I was wondering about your suggestion tying a visit/ trek at the one stable nearest to Thirsk with a visit to that town. How much time is suggested to see the James Herriot museum? Could you do a half day pony trek ride in the morning followed by an afternoon seeing Thirsk and the museum ( or vice versa) ? Secondly, if that was possible, would it be better to travel there in terms of from Pickering or York?
Kirby, that slow kind of trip is what we are looking forward to this time, too. I’m glad to hear you recommend this type of travel experience.

The only buses to Thirsk with any frequency are from York and Ripon .From Pickering you would have to go into York first then transfer to bus or train, so half a day is gone on the journey, unless you get up super early at 0640, then have a 1 hour bus connection in York.

Transfer to train at York would get you to Thirsk faster from Pickering at 0856, take a cab station to stables, then stables to museum, then bus home. That is how you would work it from Pickering.
No transit gets anywhere near Boltby so a taxi from Thirsk would be needed in any event.

Mustlovedogs, I would think that combining a pony trek with a museum to the museum would work. It looks like the Boltby Pony Trekking offers a number of rides for different time periods - see https://www.boltbytrekking.co.uk/prices.html So I don't see why you couldn't do a 2 hour pony ride, then make your way to the James Herriot museum.

The issue (as Stuart has noted) is getting there. You might think about contacting the Boltby Pony Trekking company and asking them what forms of public transport you could use to get out there. I would think that many people who use their services would need help getting there.

I will definitely contact them in the future mardee, thanks for the suggestion. I would think they’ve helped others with the logistics of getting there w/o a car. Maybe it would make more sense to try to go to the stable from our second base in York at the end of the trip. (We’re thinking of staying at the Pickering base for the first 6 days and finish off in York.)

We talked about this trip at Thanksgiving and we are already thinking it’ll be so memorable! I’m sure I will be soaking in any and all posts about this beautiful part of England!

I've just got my maps out properly, rather than just saying "nowhere near". Boltby is about 5 miles from the museum, 7 miles from the Railway Station.

As a guide someone else on this forum a few months ago was quoted £28 each way to Rievaulx Abbey, with no added time for waiting at the Abbey. Rievaulx is a good 6 or 7 miles further.

So I would guess maybe £16 or so each way for you.

This is the thread in case you want to PM that OP for details of the taxi firm used- https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/england/day-trip-from-york-to-thirsk-rievaulx-abbey-advice-please

How much time is suggested to see the James Herriot museum?

last summer we visited and looking at the timestamps on my photos spent less than an hour at the museum. You could spend longer if you wanted to read the placard on each medical instrument on display (we only read a few of them) or if you wanted to linger in some of the rooms. We enjoyed the museum, having long been fans of his books and the TV series

Great link to that thread on the taxi travel possibilities. I’ll definitely bookmark it and PM to see the company they used. Lots of other info in there as well. With three of us going in together, it would be a much quicker and pretty cost effective option. Thanks for remembering the link and sending it my way Stuart!

John, thanks for the time gauge about the museum. I will undoubtedly read every placard.
I, too, just love his stories and am a big, big fan of Alf Wight and what he did in his long career. I definitely think I will enjoy it there.

While in Thirsk, do include a visit to St Mary's Church where Alf Wight married Joan Anderson (Helen) in 1941.