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Update on: 18 days mostly in England in October

Hello! thought I would update on 18 days in October, mostly in England. Comments and suggestions most welcome!

We arrive Heathrow at 1015 October 07. Current thinking continues to be take th eExpress to
Paddington the train (probably the 1300 departure) to Bath. Check in to the Hotel Z, eat a not-heavy meal, take a walk, then retire. While there visit the Baths, the Abbey, probably Stonehenge and Avebury, and see a play.

On October 10 take an early-ish morning train to Cardiff, spend a few hours at the castle, walking, and possibly the port before going on to Aberdare late in the afternoon on one of the hourly trains, perhaps the 1500 and staying at No. 30. Our time in Aberdare will probably be a mix of doing things (The Welsh Coal Mining Experience for one) and walking, taking in the sights, and a bit of genealogical research.

Then on Oct. 13, train to Cardiff and then to York, ideally on the 9:45 direct train. To catch that one, need to be on the no later than the 0822 departure from Aberdare. We're staying at the St. Mary's Guest House.

While in York, the Railroad Museum, the Minster and perhaps evensong, a walking tour (or two!), and probably laundry.

And on the 16th, train to Berwick-upon-Tweed, then bus via Borders Buses) to Wooler, where we will stay at The Old Mill B&B, which was recommended by a local. This will probably be a low key, relaxed and relaxing stop.

On the 20th, bus back to Berwick-upon-Tweed then train to London King's Cross and the tube (or perhaps taxi) to our hotel near Paddington Station.

During our 3 full days in London: most likely go to Bletchley Park, definitely Churchill War Rooms, likely the British Museum and Daunt Books, probably the Imperial War Museum and Stanfords Books, possibly a Jack the Ripper walk and Kew Gardens. We continue talking about the Tower - my partner feels that while yes it's the Tower and all that, the admission is steep.

Our return flight leaves Heathrow on the 24th after 1300 and we will likely be through security well before we need to be, so that morning may be mostly blown.

At some point we will want/need to do laundry beyond washing out socks and underwear, probably in York. Suggestions welcomed!

Applied for/received ETA approval today; details are in the ETA Experience thread.

We decided that for train travel, the path of least resistance (that is ease of use) combined with greatest flexibility, though possibly not least costly, is to go ahead with the 8-day Britrail pass.

Posted by
440 posts

There are several branches of Daunt Books in London; the best and biggest is the Marylebone one with its oak galleries. I also recommend Waterstones Gower St. Yes, I know Waterstones is the UK equivalent of Barnes and Noble and they are everywhere, but this one is particularly large and well stocked and is not far from the British Museum.

Posted by
10374 posts

I think the Britrail pass is a very sensible choice.

I've just done a fare check (before railcard reductions)-
Heathrow Express £10
Paddington to Cardiff £43.80 (you would probably get a slightly cheaper last minute Advance in practice)
Cardiff to Aberdare £4.20
Aberdare to York £73.10 (a split Advance Ticket Aberdare to Tamworth/Tamworth to York)
York to Berwick £19.70 split Advance, £66.60 fully flexible- a fare you would never pay due to walk up Advance fares
Berwick to London £66.20 Advance (or £58.90 on a 4 way split).

So about £220 with a lot of fixed trains.

I would seriously look at a 1st class pass- for the food and drink on Cross Country (which is actually pretty good), TPE and LNER, also before and after journey lounge use at Paddington, Cardiff, Birmingham (if things go wrong), York, Berwick and Kings Cross.

For instance at Berwick you could wait for the bus connection in the 1st class lounge. But what I would also suggest is that one of you waits with the luggage and the other walks down through the park to the river to see and photograph the Royal Border Bridge from below.

I'm very happy you are using local B and B's (the Aberdare one looks very interesting), not just cookie cutter chain hotels in Cardiff and Berwick.

Posted by
1633 posts

Quite a bit will need to give on your plans for London. Bletchley Park will take the best part of a day as will Kew Gardens. The Churchill War Rooms and the Imperial War Museum will be the best part of half a day each. The British Museum could occupy you for a fortnight but you will want half a day at least. Daunt and Stanfords will take time too.

Whilst I would very much encourage taking a guided walk and they can be easily fitted in if you take an early evening one the Jack the Ripper tour is in my view one of the worst options. Leaving aside the moral issue of "celebrating" a mass murderer there is really precious little that remains to see - the walk consists of looking at a new building or a piece of bare ground to be told that this or that was believed to have happened here. London Walks has a huge choice of walks that you can take and pretty much all of them will be better than a Jack the Ripper tour. In my opinion of course!

Posted by
2825 posts

I did not expect you to be spending so much time in Aberdare and just thought you would make a day trip up from Cardiff in order to see where your ancestor came from. Aberdare is a former coal mining town and is not a good transport hub for getting around SE Wales by public transport. For the hotel where you plan to stay, it looks like the second station stop in Aberdare is the one you want = the original old station. The trains to/from Cardiff are usually every 30 minutes.

The hotel website shows a photo of a waterfall and yes, the ‘Waterfall Country’ is about 10 miles NW of the town but well nigh impossible to get to from Aberdare without a car. Caerphilly Castle is also an awkward journey by public transport from Aberdare but would have been very easy from Cardiff. To get to the Welsh Coal Mining Experience you need to take a train from Aberdare to Trehafod - which is in another valley. In order to do this, you need to change trains at Pontypridd and the trip takes 40 minutes. From Pontypridd, you need a train going to Treherbert - see the staff and they will direct you to another platform. A return ticket Aberdare to Trehafod costs £4.50.

Trains to Aberdare leave from Cardiff Central at x12 & x42 minutes - usually platform 7 and rarely P8.

The Cross Country train that you will use to York normally leaves Cardiff Central platform 2.

If you have heavy cases, note that lifts are available to transfer platforms - but most people will just use the steps.

Posted by
395 posts

Came here to say what Johnnew52 said!

Posted by
4985 posts

I assume you realize that if you buy a lot of books, they could cause you to have to pay for overweight luggage-that happened to us once.

Posted by
7 posts

Hello again and thank you all for your helpful replies. I'll respond to everyone in this post.

Slate, the Marylbone Daunt Books is the one we are considering visiting. And we'll look at Waterstones; we go to Indigo Books which is Canadas' Barnes and Noble.

isn31c, thanks for your observations about the Britrail pass. We have some questions about its use about which I will start a different thread, probably tomorrow. The first class pass is very enticing, particularly considering we will be on a train for much of the day Aberdare > Berwick. Lounge access would be very pleasant, as we found travelling VIA Rail to Toronto here in Canada.

My partner gets much of the credit for finding the B&Bs and I am pleased we are staying, and getting acquainted, with the proprietors!

Johnew52, yes we will have to give quite a bit indeed. Churchill War Rooms is a must do for me (my dad was a transport pilot who flew a plane which dropped paratroops on D-Day) and Bletchley Park is likely (though not certainly) the same. Should we visit both, that would reduce the remaining open time to about 1 1/2 days perhaps a bit more. We would have to sort through our what to do/see list. ;-)

James, thank you for pointing out the difficulties in using transport from Aberdare to interesting destinations. It is possible that we may try to visit one of them, and simply walk about the city, or hop back to Cardiff for a half-day or so. And also thanks for the details of Cardiff Central - that's very helpful!

Volva, thank you - we will have some discussions and arrive at a mutually agreeable compromise on what is done and what is left out for this trip!

cala, quite true. We may need to be rather judicious and choosy about which book(s) make(s) the trip home!