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Re-Visiting London - Your Thoughts About What & Where?

We've been to London before, but ...

It has been a while - 15 years since our one real, week-long visit.
Two other visits in the past 25 years were overnight and for less than 24 hours.

On the visit 15 years ago, we visited ...

  • St. Paul's
  • Tate Modern
  • The Old Bailey (a great two hours, watching barristers ply their trade)
  • The Imperial War Museum
  • Westminster Abbey
  • Hampstead Heath & Kenwood House
  • British Museum & Sir John Soane House
  • A market in Maryleborne and The Wallace Collection
  • Hyde Park & the V&A
  • Day trip to Oxford; Pitt Rivers Museum, Ashmolean, and wandered around one or another college, Christ Church Cathedral & Radcliffe Camera

Wondering about ideas for spring '27. We will have five full days and two-to-four half days in London. 7 nights, 4 at the front end and 3 at the back end. We don't need day trips out of London, other than Greenwich and/or Kew Gardens, since we have 3+ weeks to see other parts of England. But I am wondering about your suggestions. My initial ideas follow, but are subject to changes you may suggest.

  1. Arrival Day (really just the eve; our flight arrives LHR 3 pm) St. James Park or Covent Garden. We'll be staying in Chelsea (Sloane Sq.)
  2. DAY 1 - Tower of London and what else? Spitalfields Market? Other? Evening play or ballet/opera?
  3. DAY 2 - Greenwich Day trip ... possibly to include watching a play about Anne Boleyn at the outdoor theatre in Greenwich. Anyone know anything about the play? or the theatre?
  4. DAY 3 - Central London sights: Churchill War Rooms, Trafalgar Sq., National Gallery.
  5. Departure Morning ... Maybe a few hours for something ... (Late-morning to Mid-day train to Cambridge).
  6. Weeks later, Arrival day - a FULL afternoon. Courtauld Gallery, perhaps? Eve?
  7. DAY 4 - Day Trip to Kew/Richmond. Eve?
  8. DAY 5 - Shopping? Walking Tour? Neighborhood? BTW, at this point we will be staying quite central ... near Euston Sq./Fitzrovia, so Regent's Park and Soho are nearby, and a host of famous sights.
  9. Departure Day - 5 pm flight, so we have the full morning in Central London before we need to find our way back to the bags at the hotel around noon and take the tube or bus to the Piccadilly Line and LHR-->SEA

NOT mentioned in the above are the British Museum & Bayeux Tapestry, British Library, National Portrait Gallery, Major Stores like Harrod's, Churches like Westminster Abbey or St. Paul's and I don't know what all else. Here's where your thoughts come in. (My wife is only good for so many museums, but I only have the National Gallery and Courtauld on this list, plus the Tower of London & Churchill War Rooms.) As for churches, we will see Salisbury Cathedral and Canterbury in the 4 or 5 days leading us back to London and I feel no major need to return to St. Paul's or the Abbey.

As for Anne Boleyn, or the Royal Opera or Ballet, how long in advance should I be looking for tix in early May or early June? Now?

As for the perpetually playing "open run" shows, like Operation Mincemeat, Hamilton or Witness for the Prosecution, I imagine that's no problem. What about revivals like Billy Elliott or Amadeus?

And finally, I don't know what I don't know ... so any other thoughts are encouraged.

Posted by
6190 posts

It will depend on your level of interest but you may want to count on the Tower of London taking a full day. We've been there twice over the years and both times we spent 6 hours.

If you are hoping to see the Bayeaux Tapestry be prepared to be online to buy tickets as soon as they go on sale for the Spring. The latest round of tickets sold out in 3 hours.

You haven't mentioned Hampton Court Palace, it's a close 2nd to the Tower as my favourite site in London.

Posted by
30694 posts

The Courtauld is an excellent option if you like Impressionism.

The Churchill Museum section of the Churchill War Rooms takes a long time for a full visit. I was at that site for over half a day and could have stayed longer. The CWR often sell out, and the ticket line is likely to be long in any case, so this is a ticket to buy somewhat in advance.

Two other art museums I like are the Tate Britain and the Dulwich Picture Gallery. The Tate Britain has a fine collection and often has multiple temporary exhibitions running (at extra charge). The DWP is of modest size but has had some really interesting temporary exhibitions (at modest extra charge) to augment its permanent collection. However, it's not in central London and is a bit of a walk from either of the two Dulwich rail stations.

I highly recommend a look at the London Walks being offered during your visit. I've taken many and enjoyed them all. I love how the walks make an effort to see side streets the average visitor wouldn't normally encounter.

Posted by
7017 posts

I agree with the previous posts here, although we didn't spend as long as Allan at the Tower of London.

One thing we've started making a "must" during our nearly annual trips to London is seeing a Shakespeare play at the Globe. First class productions in an amazing venue. Tip: if you do sign up for a play, read it before you go. Having had to read it in high school decades (many decades!) ago is not enough.

Posted by
10397 posts

Bletchley Park
Parkland Walk
Hunterian Museum
Maltby Market
Thames Barrier
Spitafields
Battersea Power Station Conversion
Witness for the Prosecution
See what’s on at Alexander Palace
Guildhall Art Gallery
Leighton House

Posted by
6936 posts

As for the perpetually playing "open run" shows, like Operation Mincemeat, Hamilton or Witness for the Prosecution, I imagine that's no problem. What about revivals like Billy Elliott or Amadeus?

If you have your heart set on a particular show, I recommend buying in advance for the best seats. If you are flexible about what you see, you can wait until the day of and see what is discounted. There are generally more discounts available midweek. I typically buy in advance shows I want to see for Friday and Saturday nights and try to get discounted tickets during the week (I usually see 5 to 6 shows on every visit to London)

Unlike 15 years ago, You no longer need to wait in line at the TKTS booth in Leicester Square to buy discounted day of show tickets. You can buy from their website: https://officiallondontheatre.com/

Operation Mincemeat is in a small and rather cramped theatre. If you want to see it, I’d buy in advance. I have not seen it offered at a discount on TKTS over the past couple of years and there are some really uncomfortable seats in this theatre. I was very happy that I had an aisle seat; the legroom in the Dress Circle is terrible so go with the stalls.

Hamilton - On my last trip to London (Sept), I saw Hamilton offered at a discount a few times on TKTS.

Witness for the Prosecution - A couple years ago, I was able to get this at a discount on TKTS.

For Billy Elliot and Amadeus, I’d start monitoring ticket availability for your dates periodically and buy if you see availability getting low.

Posted by
1076 posts

Guildhall (City) and Leighton House (Kensington) look interesting. Thnx, Claudia.

Just found several others, below, from the dozens suggested in the following: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/england/what-are-your-favorite-places-in-london-that-are-not-the-typical-tourist-destinations

  • Dennis Severs House (Spitalfields)
  • Turner House (CORRECTION: Twickenham, just past Richmond. THANKS, Cat)
  • Benj. Franklin House (near Trafalgar Sq.)
  • Chas. Dickens Museum (Clerkenwell)

How long might one reasonably spend at Dennis Severs House? … or Turner House?

Would the Tower, Spitalfields Market and Severs House be a workable day? Other nearby places? Would Guildhall fit in? Or be a good substitute for something?

Allan, I’m not sure we have stamina for 6 hours at the Tower; I was thinking more like 4, less if we were to skip the Crown Jewels … spectacular as they appeared to the 8-year-old me in 1960.

Acraven - Good thoughts as ever. Useful re CWR. Dulwich looks interesting, though a bit far afield. Tate Britain is on our radar.

Laura, TY for some theatre tix thoughts.

Posted by
9428 posts

You sure fit in a lot of substantial places 15 years ago. There are some things that are new since then, including:

The Old Baily currently doesn’t allow any cellphones/smartphones. I wonder if that policy was active 15 years ago?

You mention the Churchill War Rooms, which have become a site of major, major interest in the years since opening to the public. The War Rooms themselves, along with Churchill’s bed and the secret phone closet for talking confidentially with FDR, don’t actually take a huge amount of time, and you and your wife could be out of there relatively quickly. The back part of the underground museum, however, is a deep dive into Winston Churchill, the man and the politician. You could spend hours and hours there, if interested, but it wouldn’t necessarily have to be a huge drain on your wife.

The V&A has opened two new museums in just the last year, both on the east side of London, by the grounds where the 2012 Summer Olympics were based, which itself have undergone redevelopment. We saw the V&A East Storehouse last year, which has lots of lavish furniture up on stacked shelves, plus vases and other ceramics, historical clothing, an intact executive office interior designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and brought over from the U.S.A., an elaborate Spanish-Islamic ceiling from the 15th Century (think of the Alhambra for the design), and a David Bowie exhibit, for starters. The new V&A East is even newer, so new that I haven’t made it there yet.

Day 5 and the morning of Day 6, sights in Fitzrovia:

The Queen Elizabeth II Garden in the southeast part of Regent’s Park just opened this spring. It’s new, so hasn’t been fully established, and thus summer’s drought was hard on the new plants. Still, it’s an inspired layout, and could be a nice contrast with Kew, without having to leave downtown London.

The Fitzrovia Chapel is small and ornate, and has interesting, free exhibits inside. It had been part of a hospital campus, but the hospital’s no longer there. The free-standing chapel still is; check its Website for open days/hours, and for details about exhibits. It is a real gem.

The Cartoon Museum (OK, so it’s another museum) is small but has a wealth of a collection dating back 300 years to today. I was stunned to discover they had a comic from the 1940’s, a kind-of Buck Rogers-type sci-fi, full-color, that had been produced in Colorado, and was on a Sunday Denver Post funnies page. Who knew the Denver Post had a space-traveler series, local comic 80 years ago, and that a museum in London had a pristine example? There’s also puppet from the Spitting Image TV program decades ago, which was plumbed to simulate it slobbering when it spoke. Apparently it was modeled after a politician at the time.

Exceptional restaurants and cafes along both Great Titchfield Street and Charlotte Street in c Fitzrovia.

P.S. fred, I notice that as of right this moment, you’ve posted 1066 times in this Forum. That was a significant year in English history, too, 1066.

Posted by
9428 posts

As for the Royal Ballet & Opera, most performances aren’t sold out months in advance, but the sooner you book, the sooner you can guarantee the seat location and price point you want. Also, they have a Behind the Scenes tour of the theatre that we really enjoyed. The maximum number on the tour is 25, and it’s £23 per participant. We were able to sign up for the tour on the spot, after a matinee Nutcracker performance before Christmas last year, although many people had reserved their tour slot ahead of time. That’s another thing where you might decide to sign up last-minute, but to ensure being able to do it, reserve ASAP. It was fascinating.

Posted by
104 posts

You could combine your visit to the Tower of London with a show at the Bridge Theatre (if the timing is right). Every production I've seen there has been excellent and the location is convenient.

Posted by
11690 posts

Since you’re staying in Chelsea and visiting during the Spring, I highly recommend spending a couple of hours (plus tea? Or lunch?) at the Chelsea Physick Garden. One of my favorite getaways in London.

I seem to remember Dennis Severs’ House not taking more than an hour, but it was quite enjoyable. And yes it would pair well with a visit to Spitalfields Market and the fabulous architecture there.

Posted by
2763 posts

Someone mentioned Witness for the Prosecution and I second that. I have tickets for that for my visit in mid-April.
Also, you might want to see the British Library’s exhibit of Agatha Christie while you are there. It’s on through June 20. I have tickets for it, too, as I’m a big fan of hers.

Posted by
1076 posts

Cyn, Yes, same restrictions applied to the Old Bailey back then (2010). We couldn’t enter one afternoon, but after looking at RS’ book that eve, we returned the next day. Back then, a travel agency a block away stored a backpack for £5, but I don’t think that resource is still available.

The two examinations we saw, (1) cross-examination of a critical witness in a murder case that occurred at a club in London and (2) direct, Crown examination of a police forensic examiner in a terrorism case were far more insightful and incisive than the 1957 Tyrone Power movie, Witness for the Prosecution. And yes, that film was a classic.

Security officers were very kind in suggesting which courtrooms had interesting cases and examinations to watch. They asked that you stay 45 minutes or an hour or so and not come and go. That was very easy - and just about perfect - with the two cases we observed.

Posted by
780 posts

If you are staying in Chelsea at Sloane Square and don't land in London until 3 pm I would just plan to stay in the neighborhood that first evening. You can walk down to the river and then west along it, then come back east on Kings Road. Plenty of drinking and dining places right in that area.

Posted by
1850 posts

A few things to add:

-The Courtauld is nice but very small- it definitely won't take a whole afternoon.
-I endorse the recommendation for Dulwich Picture Gallery but note this is small as well and is a bit further to get to. But you can spend some time in Dulwich Park and the nearby village if you're heading out that way.
-Most of those long-running shows are easy to get tickets for but if you have a strong preference for show, date, or type of seat I would always book early.
-Turner's house is in Twickenham, not the Strand- worth visiting if you are headed out to Richmond: https://turnershouse.org/
-Dennis Sever's House is not very big, an hour is probably sufficient- "Would the Tower, Spitalfields Market and Severs House be a workable day?"- for me, yes, definitely
-Agree Fitzrovia Chapel is beautiful- it has limited opening hours so just check the website

For those interested in visiting the Old Bailey- if you're more interested in touring the building than seeing a trial, and you don't know what you'd do with your mobile phone, they do run regular tours on Saturdays where you can bring your phone and take photos. It's a fascinating building.

Posted by
752 posts

Day 3, you could add the Banqueting House.

Posted by
6857 posts

Plenty of good ideas above, but surprisingly no one mentioned the Queen's Diamond Jubilee Galleries at the top of Westminster Abbey, which opened just a few years ago. I never get tired of the Abbey, but if I were returning to London this new gallery would be at the top of my list.

Also you might consider the London Eye or Sky Garden (in the building they call the Walkie Talkie) for an overview on a day with good weather.

Posted by
1076 posts

Great stuff that you’re all offering. For example, Chelsea neighborhood for dinner and walk to Physick Garden and along the river could be nice on our first arrival eve. (Last year, we spent a fine hour in the Jardin des Plantes in Paris with its medicinal plants.) And, some combination of the Banqueting House (that I had never heard of), the Courtauld Gallery and St James Park and/or Covent Garden could be nice on afternoon of Arrival Day #2 (from Kent).

Whether we add Hampton Palace, Richmond town and/or Turner’s House to the day that we head to Kew Gardens may be a decision we make that day. Plan as one might, always keep it open for an unexpected opportunity.

Would still love to hear more about neighborhoods to ramble … though perhaps Fitzrovia and Chelsea and Spitalfields and Richmond are plenty, already.

PS to Cyn. Alas, neither Battle Abbey, nor Hastings will be on our Kent itinerary. I suspect the Bayeux Tapestry is yet another piece of that story that we’ll miss. With Chartwell, Hever Castle, Knole House, Bodiam Castle, Leeds Castle, Sissinghurst and All Saints Church in Tonbridge — all close to where we’ll be staying — many other noble historic venues also remain beyond our grasp, though we will manage a day in Canterbury and another day for some historic castles, homes and gardens in Kent.

Posted by
11690 posts

However my guess would be that Chelsea Physick Garden will be well closed before you make it into London your first day, with an arrival at Heathrow at 3 pm. Everything to be seen there is after you buy your ticket and gain admission to the garden.

Posted by
602 posts

If you have an interest in gardening the Garden Museum, right by Lambeth Bridge is worth a visit.

https://www.gardenmuseum.org.uk/

It is very central, almost across the river from the Houses of Parliament and the building it is in has an interesting history.