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Planning trip to Yorkshire in May 2018

I am so excited! My first trip out of the U.S. and will be traveling with my sister to Great Britain. Of course I want it perfect, as it will likely be my only trip. I am 65...to note. We will start by visiting the Cotswolds, then I will be in London a week while my sister is at a conference. After the conference we have 2 weeks to play. I will ask questions in another post about day trips. First, we need to plan our first leg of the journey before going north to Scotland.
We have chosen Yorkshire. I haven't decided the "order" of the days but this is a general itinerary and would like input.

Friday: train to York
Sat: probably find a guide and tour the Dales and back. Any recommendations?
Sunday: train through the Moors to Whitby and back. Possibly visit Rievaulx Abbey, Helmsley, Richmond or??? Castles. enough time?
Monday: day off in York...is there a nice narrowboat excursion with beautiful scenery?
Tuesday: leave to head north....or stay an extra day to visit the Abbey and Castles

I think the time frame should be doable and comfortable...any input, suggestions? Any recommendations on small towns in the Dales, on coast or nearby that would be a must see? (We prefer smaller, "homier" places..York will be our city)

To visit the castles, out of the way places I assume we would need to hire a guide or rent a car (rather than spending 1/2 the day trying to make bus connections). Which brings me to questions about driving. Of course the driving on the other side of the road worries us, but even more fretful would be very small one lane roads to maneuver. My impression is small roads through the Dales and rather than worrying about navigating and driving hiring someone would be better. But how are roads for seeing the castles??

I thank you all for you input, and will ask about our journey north in a separate post.
Marna O

Posted by
1290 posts

Hi Marna -

Itinerary is 'doable' if a little ambitious! Here are a few observations. The Dales are huge - I have lived here all my life (I'm a fraction younger than yourself!) and there are parts I still haven't covered. I do of course have some favourite parts of the area that I personally enjoy and that you might. A day tour might take in Malham and the Cove (an easy walk from the village) and also Gordale Scar, an impressive gash in the limestone landscape, again a straightforward walk from Malham village.

I have a soft spot for the countryside of Three Peaks of Yorkshire - Penyghent, Whernside and Ingleborough, and the centre for accessing these three is Horton-in-Ribblesdale which is reached via Settle. Onwards from here are Hawes and Dent, both worthy of exploration. Question is how much time you'll be able to devote to them, as I said the area is vast. If you want to get out and hike then I suggest you chose an area and devote the day to that. There's a lovely walk from Burnsall which takes in Trollers Gill after following the River Wharfe downstream, before climbing back over rough-ish ground to return via farm tracks to Burnsall. Tea Rooms at Parceval Hall (gardens) halfway round! Red Lion pub in Burnsall!

Might I suggest you have a look at a suitable guide(s) and decide what might best appeal? I'm happy to answer any queries you might have, feel free to pm me.

The trains to Whitby across the N. Yorks Moors run from the small-ish town of Pickering, reached via Helmsley. The ruins of Rievaulx Abbey are reached from Helmsley - either a long walk or a short drive! - and are worthy of a stop. Helmsley also has a castle. Whitby is again a personal favourite and its Abbey ruins on the cliff tops are spectacular. The church nearby is also interesting if open with its box pews, unaltered for centuries. Both the abbey and the church are reached from Whitby's narrow back streets via the '199 steps' a short but stiff climb to the cliff tops (no, I've never counted them!).

York has cruises on the Ouse which leave from Kings Staith, but I'm afraid I've never taken one. The boats are not narrowboats, which are traditionally canal barges (although there may be some private ones moored on the river). Personally, I'd stick to exploring the streets of York on foot, there's plenty to occupy a day, not least the Minster, and the famed Shambles. But also there's the Treasurers House and the Merchant Adventurers Hall and, if you can gain access, the Guildhall is worth sticking your nose into for a few minutes. This in addition to to the other museums and attractions.

So you'll see that time is your enemy here, so much to do, so little time! If I can be of any help, as I said earlier, please feel free to pm me. If there's anything you ask I can't answer, I'd hope to be able to find out.

Here's hoping you see my home county at its brilliant best and that you have a great trip!

Ian

Posted by
1290 posts

P.S. You will need a car to travel to the Dales and N.York Moors. The roads are narrow, but not terrifyingly so. Although the ascent of Sutton Bank en route to Helmsley might give you pause!

Posted by
6564 posts

Lots of good info above. I'd just add the hope that you give York itself at least a day. It's full of interest and very walkable. Our favorites were the Minster (including Evensong), walking part of the city wall, the Yorkshire Museum, the abbey ruins, and the medieval center's pedestrian streets.

On our way to Durham, by car, we stopped in Richmond and hired a cab driver to take us up Swaledale and back. I didn't think my driving skills were up to the narrow valley road. He was pleasant and a good driver but not a professional guide, and he drove fast as a taxi normally should. So I wouldn't recommend that approach. You might check some guidebooks in your public library for recommended guides or tours. I think Rick Steves has some favorites, who I'm sure would be excellent.

Posted by
239 posts

I can't improve on the Dales or N York Moors comments. Don't fret about driving. Some roads are narrow, though not the main ones, and many are wiggly, but driving round there is easy. Speeds are generally slow (there are alot of retired people in the Dales and Moors areas, and quite a few places people tow caravans to) and drivers in the UK are generally courteous and patient (generally). We are used to narrow lanes. Just remember to be able to stop in the distance you can see and be prepared to pull over go let other cars by--they will do the same for you if it is more convenient that way. When someone does this for you, you are expected to thank them with a wave or flash of your lights. It really is pretty easy once you've done it a couple of times.

Posted by
998 posts

Marna,

Some great suggestions have already been given - I will add that Yorkshire is one of my favorite areas in the UK and you could easily spend a week or more here. The train to Whitby is wonderful - it takes about 2 hours each way. It will go through some beautiful countryside and picturesque train stations before arriving at Whitby. We did not make it up to the Abbey (it was unusually hot the day we were there) so we opted to walk the harbor and eat fish and chips. (Be careful with the seagulls when you have food). The steam train was not in full operation the day we travelled. We did, however, get to see the steam train at one of the stations. Another train ride is Settle to Carlisle - the Settle station is beautiful. We took the train to Appleby and returned to Settle (we had a B&B in Feizor a nearby hamlet). I believe the Settle to Carlisle railway now has an option to travel by steam train. Check out: https://www.settle-carlisle.co.uk also of interest is the Ribblehead Viaduct. We chose to also drive to it and walk under the Viaduct - its quite impressive.

I think it is best you hire a car from York so you can travel at your own pace across this area. There are so wonderful B&B's and small hotels to choose from. I think it is one of the easier areas in the UK to drive around. Don't worry about the small roads - you will be driving slow on these anyway.

Have a great trip

Posted by
7688 posts

We did four weeks in Wales and England last October. That included Bath, S.Wales, The Cotswolds, Warwick Castle, York, Pickering, the Yorkshire Moors, Whitby, Durham, Hadrian's Wall, the Lake District, Winchester ending in Southampton.
Here is the review on cruise critic of our trip.
28 days in Britain and Celebrity Eclipse home
https://www.cruisecritic.com/memberreviews/memberreview.cfm?EntryID=599139

Note, our small hotel in York was perfect if driving a rental car. It was near the city and restaurants.
http://www.yorkminsterhotel.co.uk

We spend three nights in York. The Minster (cathedral) is awesome, we spent 3.5 hours there. Also, walk the walls and visit the National Rail Museum.

Durham, north of York is worth a day.

Between York and Whitby is the Yorkshire Moors. From Pickering there is a steam rail train that goes to Whitby and return.

Posted by
2724 posts

We spent three weeks in northern England in September including 10 days in the North York Moors and Yorkshire Dales - 3 nights in Whitby, 3 nights in Helmsley, and 3 nights in Grassington. We did not have a car but got around by train and bus. And iof course foot - our main goal was to do lots of walking. Both parks are walkers’ paradises. The buses are excellent, so if you don’t want to drive, there is an alternative.

Posted by
52 posts

Thank you all for sharing and easing my worry about driving. I am taking notes and will check out areas you mentioned. Ian, I think I could easily spend at least a month in Yorkshire...but alas. Harleydonski: thank you sooo much for the video. Such a relief. We can do that no problem as similar to roads in the California hills and way to Lake Tahoe, tho not enjoyable. Dick: funny about the taxi ride. ;)

Posted by
396 posts

I have visited Yorkshire 3 times and enjoyed it very much. Yorkshire is England's largest county, so there are many things to choose from. I loved seeing the Dales but recommend doing so on a sunny day. I prefer Fountains Abbey to Rievaulx Abbey. Castle Howard is a most impressive stately home.

I have driven in many counties in England, and I did not find the roads in Yorkshire to be narrow compared to other English counties.

Have a great time!

Posted by
13 posts

We only spent one day wandering around York as we'd been there before. York Minster is beautiful and well worth a visit. The Jorvik Viking Centre is interesting. Betty's Cafe Tea Rooms has 2 locations - very good food, a bit pricey but most food is.
I scanned the other posts and finally noticed a comment about Castle Howard! If you can work it into your schedule, I highly recommend it - a beautiful place, inside and out! And the cafe has some pretty tasty treats. = )
We stayed at the Black Bull, south of York, in Escrick, and rode the bus into York. An older gentleman got off the bus when we did & was giving directions to all sorts of places to visit - a one-man tourist information bureau! The only one I recall is the Railway Museum which we were not able to get to.

Posted by
409 posts

My husband was a teacher in North Yorkshire at Ampleforth, and I got to spend alot of time tooling around. Some in a rental car; some by bus. There is a bus system that goes around that area from York - there are actually a couple of different companies, so I'd say you can possibly to it without a car if that's your desire. Certainly, more flexibility with the car!

Ampleforth (500 year old Benedictine monastery which has tours); Helmsely (castle); Thirsk (James Harriott village); Wass (Byland Abbey ruin); all are in that area. Lot's of ruins, beautiful scenery. Google Lucy Saggers photography for an idea of the beauty in that area; she's a local photographer and her love of the area showed me all sorts of hidden gems when I was there for a few months. Nothing beats a day walking around ruins, then a nice hot tea at Porter's in Helmsley or the Ampleforth Abbey Tea Room! Heaven!

If you're into grand houses (and I mean GRAND) check out Castle Howard. Wow!

And yes, Sutton Bank is a bit of a climb!! But it's also where the gliding club takes off from, so you can imagine fantastic views around the area!

When you go to Whitby, be sure to check out Whitby crab (if you like crab). I grew up near Chesapeake Bay and almost afraid to admit it, but Whitby crab is the best I have EVER eaten! There is a fantastic cafe in Whitby called The Art Cafe - near Flowergate, I think. It was a gem and I went there, often. A cafe above an art gallery - just beautiful surroundings!

Susan
Expat living in Waterville, Ireland

Posted by
1290 posts

Susan - you forgot to mention that the monks at Ampleforth use the apples from their orchards to brew a pretty nifty cider!

Posted by
409 posts

Ianandjulie - I did, indeed! and now they have Ampleforth GIN, too!!!

I love the peacefulness of wandering around Ampleforth Abbey grounds.... and the village itself is a photographer's dream!

Susan
Expat in Ireland