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OK, here's my crazy UK itinerary - tell me I'm not crazy?

So we've traveled fairly extensively, in Europe and other places, but have never done the UK. This summer we're going to take a crack at it. We are fairly typical Rick-nics, with an interest in most of the usual things popular here. Extra points for history, ruins, castles, evocative landscapes relatively free of crowds, natural beauty. We have an all-too-brief vacation (like so many Americans) so we do tend to cram in a lot - more than many folks here would be comfortable with. We're used to that. Then again, I try not to be completely crazy and having an entire trip become a blur through the window of a moving vehicle - I always struggle to find the right balance, but do usually end up covering a lot of ground. This trip looks like it won't be an exception.

For our first UK trip, just short of 3 weeks in June and July, I'm interested in getting a nice sampling of England, and a good slice of Scotland, too. I know that's hard in under three weeks. I've made it even harder with an extra interest in megalithic standing stones, and an aversion to the kinds of crowds that I know we will find at Stonehenge. So I've mixed in some of the more remote standing stone sites to make me feel better about having 1500 strangers in every picture I shoot at Stonehenge. I understand that there's a tradeoff here, by stretching our trip across a large area, we're missing some popular spots. That's OK, we'll be back.

I'm OK with doing more than a little driving (even on the wrong side of the road and on tiny country lanes). I've tried to minimize one-night stands, because I know they eat into usable time on those days (not to mention they wear you out if you do too many of them). I'm also OK with throwing some money at logistical issues to make things work - so we're actually going to be doing a little flying around the UK as part of this trip to save time. Because we used frequent flyer miles to get to the UK, and hotel points for the majority of our accommodations, our budget can tolerate a few splurges (that's how I rationalize it).

So here's what I've got planned. See any obvious trainwrecks here?
(continued...)

Posted by
6813 posts

Day 0 - Arrive at LHR noon on an overnight non-stop from Seattle. Flying in business class (we used miles) so I expect to arrive reasonably happy and rested. Sleep in London (hotel Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, booked with points - this is where we will be staying all nights in London)

Day 1, 2, 3 in London, with possible day trips (Cambridge, Greenwich?). Sleep in London.

Day 4 - up early, head west out of London on public transit, pick up our rental car somewhere outside the city (location TBD) as early as the agency opens, and continue west to Salisbury area. Visit Stonehenge (probably morning) and Avebury (probably late afternoon). Sleep somewhere nearby (location TBD), possible a little north of Avebury.

Day 5 - Leave early, head NNE, towards York. Stop at Warwick Castle for a while (1-3 hours, depending on our mood). Drive onwards to York. This will be a long day of driving (there are a couple of these, a necessary evil). Sleep in York.

Day 6 & 7 - York. Sleep in York.

Day 8 - To Durham. Afternoon and evening in Durham. Sleep Durham.

Day 9 - Up early, drive north towards Edinburgh, stop at Holy Island/Lindisfarne. Continue to Edinburgh. Sleep Edinburgh.

Day 10 & 11 - Edinburgh. Sleep Edinburgh.

Day 12 - Up early, drive to Inverness via Crianlarich, Fort William, the Caledonia canal, Loch Ness. This will be a long, but (I presume) do-able, scenic day of driving, punctuated by more than a few stops. I know this is a long stretch. It'll be early July, so long days. Drop our rental car on arrival in Inverness. Sleep Inverness.

Day 13 - Fly Inverness to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis (this short flight arrives mid-morning). Rent a car in Stornoway and spend the rest of the day enjoying the island and checking out the Callanish stones. Sleep on Lewis.

Day 14 - Morning on Lewis, drop car back in Stornoway and catch mid-day flight back to Inverness and connect to flight to Kirkwall, Orkney. Arrive Kirkwall later afternoon. Rent a car, sleep Kirkwall.

Day 15 - Orkney. Explore and check out Ring of Brodgar standing stones and other Orkney sites. Return car at end of the day. Sleep Kirkwall.

Day 16 - Fly Kirkwall to London, morning departure. Arrive London afternoon. Back to the same hotel (Park Plaza Westminster Bridge).

Day 17 - Relax in London on the last full day before flying home.

Day 18 - Depart LHR 1 pm for Seattle.

Day 19 - Back to work. Oy.

Crazy?

Thanks for all the input.

Posted by
662 posts

Poor old London doesn't get much of a look in, but you seem to be aware of/comfortable with that. I won't comment in detail on days outside London as there are people on here far more knowledgeable about the rest of the UK than myself.

Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, nice hotel in a good location. I'd avoid going too far south from there, especially at night, but you're very close to all the good stuff when heading north and across the river. South Bank is a wonderful walk.

Days 1-3, Greenwich is a good idea, it's easy/quick to get to, and is still London, but personally I'd ignore Cambridge on this trip, in favour of another full day in London.

Maybe get an early train to the Stonehenge area, rent a car there, and get to Stonehenge first thing to minimise crowds. If you rent with one of the big boys, no problem dropping the car off again wherever suits you.

A week in Scotland does seem a lot, maybe give Wales a day?

Very sensible to have a chill out day before going home. If you don't like crowds, maybe minimising time in London is sensible.

Book your internal flights early as possible, they can be a crazy price. You could also consider the train, easier than flying and you will get to see the UK as you travel. Again, book early as possible.

Hope you have a wonderful trip.

Posted by
14821 posts

I had a similar thought to Mike's in that I would not do a day trip from London, but I would leave London on the afternoon of Day 3 by train to Salisbury for an overnight there. I would plan to get there early enough to pick up your rental that afternoon. That way if you wanted to do the early AM tour you mentioned in your other thread you would be positioned or otherwise would still be positioned well for an early visit to Stonehenge.

Are you interested in the small Woodhenge site nearby to Stonehenge? The only time I visited was in the 80s and it may not have been a National Trust Property at the time as it was not mowed or well kept. I just remember that my group of 5 were the only ones there in a field of poppies and recreated pillars. No remaining standing stones but you can see the placement. Old Sarum is also near as well.

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/woodhenge/

Posted by
14821 posts

Oh, Mike! That is really neat! Thanks for the link.

Posted by
7168 posts

David, you're not crazy! I've done slower more relaxed trips and I've done busier trips. I think it looks good, especially since you're adding the 3-night stays in York and Edinburgh. Enjoy your trip.

Posted by
6813 posts

Well, as long as we're riffing on various Henges...we've got one, too in my neck of the woods. Sure, it's made of concrete, but it's in a spectacular setting, overlooking the Columbia River in south-central Washington state. It has an interesting story behind it, coming out of a lost utopian community and interesting characters. And there are no crowds getting in your photos. :) The builder's house is now an art museum, with a really impressive collection (especially considering it's remote location), including (incredibly) several original Rodin sculptures. Well worth a visit if you're in the neighborhood!

Posted by
14821 posts

David, I didn't realize Maryhill had some Rodin's. I guess we Idahoans are always focused on getting to the coast to divert across the river. I'll have to do it some time!

Posted by
27 posts

I would train up to york and you can stop in cambridge/warick castle. I suggest staying at the Hilton in York it is a ten minute walk from the town center. Also while in york you MUST go to betty's tea room - delicious afternoon break.

Posted by
27 posts

I would train up to york and you can stop in cambridge/warick castle. I suggest staying at the Hilton in York it is a ten minute walk from the town center. Also while in york you MUST go to betty's tea room - delicious afternoon break.

Posted by
5678 posts

I think it's a busy, but good trip. When you drive from York to Durham, there are some interesting bits that you pass on the way that might be worth a brief detour. First there is a lovely little Saxon Church in Escombe. Also, you go right past Richmond which is wonderful town and was often in the great PBS shown All Creatures Great and Small.

Rather than staying in Stornoway, you could look at staying closer to the Callinish Stones. We stayed at Doune Braes Hotel which is very near the Carloway Broch. And it's convenient to the Stones and the black houses.

You are literally having a flying visit to Orkney! There is a lot to see there. In addition to the Ring and Standing Stones of Stenness there is a new dig in between them. Here's a great video on it. Have you found Orneyjar yet? This site has been around since the late 90's and is excellent.

Lastly, have you found ViaMichelin? I like it for plotting routes. You can pick a starting place and desitination--say York and Durham--and then add interim stops. Here's an example.

Have a great trip and let us know when the return journey is planned! :)

Pam

Posted by
15794 posts

London. I would skip Cambridge for another whole day in London itself. Greenwich is fine if the sights there interest you. . . maritime stuff. Try to do at least a couple London Walks. The several I've been on were all excellent. The guides are specific to the walks, often ones they have developed themselves.

I was underwhelmed by Stonehenge but loved Salisbury Cathedral. BTW I was even more underwhelmed by your local Stonehenge, though I've been to Maryhill twice. Besides the Rodin collection, my favorite was the French fashion designers. That may have been my favorite. For anyone visiting the Columbia Gorge, it's well worth a trip upriver.