I just returned from a wonderful trip to Cornwall and Devon. I chose Penzance, Truro, Totnes, and Exeter as my bases and stayed four nights in each, using buses and trains to get around. I only had a month to plan the trip and used this Forum to help me determine the best home bases for someone without a car. I wanted to see as much of the coastal areas as possible and found the National Trust website really helpful in helping me create a wishlist identifying walks with spectacular scenery of the coast that are reachable by public transportation. When I arrived at each base, I visited the TI with my wishlist and they were very helpful with bus and train information. I simply took a photo of the bus/train schedule with my phone and made sure I knew when the last bus/train was to get me back to base to avoid getting stranded. I found this method worked far better than any of the transportation apps or websites. Maybe it’s me, but I didn’t find those apps and websites very user friendly.
Penzance – I did Mousehole, Porthcurno, Land’s End, and St. Ives. I attempted to walk to St. Michael’s Mount but had to abandon my plans when the weather turned foul and a thunderstorm was imminent. Penzance is a fantastic transport hub and home base. I stayed at the Tremont Hotel, a boutique 10-room hotel, about 20 minutes from the train/bus station, run by Mary who looked after me like a member of her own family.
Truro – I did St. Agnes and the scenic walk to St. Agnes Head (part of the Southwest Coast Path). If you enjoy nature walks, this is a great walk. The views are spectacular. There were two planned rail strikes while I was in Truro. On those days, I took the bus to Falmouth and did a circular walk in Truro suggested by the TI. Truro has a great farmer’s market on Saturdays and I was lucky my itinerary coincided with it.
Totnes – I took two buses to Brixham and walked out to Berry Head. The Guardhouse Cafe at Berry Head serves fresh, delicious seafood. I tried the hake and samphire - simply amazing! Totnes is a market town with many medieval buildings and a great little museum. It is also where you can do the Round Robin as mentioned in the post above. Jane at the Totnes TI is knowledgeable, patient, and helpful. You can email her with questions at [email protected]
Exeter – I took the bus to Sidmouth on the Jurassic Coast, and went by train to Exmouth, a seaside resort, where I had the best fish n chips from a place I happened upon. Exeter is a lively university town with a cathedral and a great museum.
This was my first time in Cornwall and Devon and I must say it was one of my favourite trips. It was a very active holiday, I was walking 9 to 13 kms/day. Everywhere, people were so helpful and kind, the Cornish pasties did not disappoint, and the coastal scenery was breathtaking. There were sights on my wishlist I didn’t get to - because of weather, rail strikes, or need for rest days, but I love this area of England and I know I’ll be back to see what I missed (St. Michael’s Mount, Tintagel, Dartmoor, and many of the quaint fishing villages). I hope you find this helpful - have a great time!