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North York Moors--Have you been to these places? How Long should I budget

All you England experts are so helpful, that I can't keep myself from posting more inquiries. I'm planning my routes for the four days we will be exploring the North York Moors and coast around Whitby. I'd love reviews of the following places, and if you have visited how much time should I budget:
*Castle Howard
*Eden Camp Modern History Museum
*Ryedale Folk Museum in Hutton-le-hole
*Sutton Bank
*Falling Foss waterfall
*Danby Lodge National Park Center
*Staithes
*Robin Hood's Bay.
*Thorton-le-dale
*Dalby Forest and Visitor Centre north of Pickering, 9 mile drive

We do have in our plans to do the following, FYI:
Whitby
Thirsk for Herriot Museum
Helmsley/Rievaulx Abbey
Hutton-le-hole
Rosedale Abbey
Mallyan Spout Waterfall
All the towns on the North Yorkshire Railway (Grosmont, Newtondale, Levisham, esp. Goathland)

We are always looking for short, interesting hikes, spectacular views and waterfalls. .

Thanks

Posted by
618 posts

I can share info for the ones I have been too:

-Castle Howard- I was just there two weeks ago. We spent four hours there, which was for us a perfect amount of time to see the house, the grounds, and eat lunch in the cafe (the one that's in the house- there's a few). The cafe lunch was a little disappointing as our food was not hot, tho when we told them this they gave us a full refund! The house and grounds are beautiful, just be aware there are quite a few completely bare rooms as the house never fully recovered from a fire in 1940. They are gradually restoring old rooms, however, and just completed restoration on a suite of very nice ones.

-Robin Hood's Bay- this is a very cute seaside village. You could walk thru the whole thing very quickly or spend a lot more time visiting the shops, restaurants, etc. If you like hikes- we walked from Robin Hood's Bay to Whitby along the Cleveland Way (7 miles) and it was a very enjoyable and easy walk. Very fun to see Whitby Abbey starting to appear in the distance. We also did a very nice walk in the other direction, from Hayburn Wyke to Scarborough (also 7 miles) which was equally scenic.

I don't know if you want more suggestions, but we just had a very nice visit to the Bempton Cliffs, just south of Scarborough. This is a special protected RSPB site for seabirds to nest, including puffins (I can't remember what time of year you are going- puffins arrive in the spring and leave late July). We saw it both from a boat (out of Bridlington) and from the cliffs themselves. Definitely recommend especially if you like birds- and there are nice walks along the cliffs themselves.

Good luck with your planning, sounds like a lovely trip.

Posted by
10119 posts

I don't know if you want more suggestions, but we just had a very nice visit to the Bempton Cliffs, just south of Scarborough.

THIS!!! I drove there for the day last year and had an absolutely wonderful time seeing all the birds and the magnificent scenery along the high cliffs. It was an incredible experience and I'm so glad I went.

*Ryedale Folk Museum in Hutton-le-hole

*Sutton Bank

Well, you've certainly read my approval of the Ryedale Folk Museum. it really doesn't need to take that long although I found it hard to tear myself away. But if you're going to Hutton-le-Hole, it's an easy stop as it's right as you get into town.

And if you are traveling from Thirsk to the Helmsley area, Sutton Bank is definitely worth a stop and again, doesn't need to take that long and the view is worth it. The car park is right off the road

Posted by
1769 posts

My trips was April the year:

Eden Camp Modern History Museum - I trained from York and took a taxi to and from station. Bus back to York. (I think you will have a car...) Without the travel time, I probably spent 3.5 - 4 hours at the museum. There are many signboards and I read many of them, but eventually got a bit tired - and there were several school groups I was dodging. I would say half a day, however you define that, would be sufficient. Interesting place. There is a Youtube I watched before going - maybe that would give you some more notion of the place if you haven't found that already.

Herriot Museum - I trained from York and walked from the station. Without travel time - I spent around 90 minutes. I read everything, watched the film, and spent more time in the veterinarian museum looking at old instruments than I suspect most people would. Watching others go past me, I would say 45 - 60 minutes is probably a more typical time at the museum.

Enjoy!

Posted by
10247 posts

These questions are always so hard, because they are so very subjective.

Falling Foss, depends whether you will use the tearoom, and/or explore more of Sneaton Forest. If a quick in and out maybe 30 to 45 minutes.

RHB- again depends on whether you plan to eat there and/or explore the museum or walk a bit to the Boggle Hole or go fossiling.

Dalby Forest -I've never been there, but would want to get value for money out of my £9 road toll (but then I'm a tight wad). From everything I've heard you could spend most of a day there.
Danby I suppose the visitor centre is half an hour or so if you're just dipping in off the A171, but it has always been a Moorsbus change point for me, so have been under time pressures. However if I was you I'd be wanting to drive the valley road from Egton up through Glaisdale etc, then visiting Danby and Castleton villages.
I've done all the villages on the train and like them all.
For my money and liking you could take that as a grand day circuit with 'Staithes'.
But I would highly recommend 3 diversions on the Staithes trip - to Runswick Bay, to Skinningrove (the Cleveland Ironstone Mining Museum) and on to the seaside resort of Saltburn - glorious beaches and cliff lift.
Along the coast from Staithes, just as on the Durham Coast you have a very interesting juxtaposition of mining (including the current Boulby potash mine) and a gloriously scenic coastline.
I've done them all on the excellent local bus services (or Saltburn also by train), so am not sure of the timings to piece them together by car.

Posted by
1441 posts

Hi jules -

Whitby is excellent and worthy of in depth investigation. If visiting the abbey, the church of St Mary’s nearby is worth a visit (as is the Whitby Tap pub also abbey adjacent). For a grand day out catch the bus to Robin Hoods Bay and after exploring the town walk back along the Cleveland Way to Whitby, if wet take the cinder path alternative route. Staithes and Robin Hoods Bay are similar places in my view, but if pushed to choose one over the other, I’d go with Robin Hoods Bay. Stuart is right though, Runswick Bay is a little known gem, but don’t tell everybody!

Speaking of the Cleveland Way, you can walk to Rievaulx Abbey from Helmsley along the Cleveland Way which is a short hike (I’m unsure of the public transport options back so you may have to make the return journey on foot as well) and the Abbey itself is fascinating. Helmsley is also worth a visit especially the castle, which I’ve visited twice recently.

If interested in monastic ruins, then Mount Grace Priory is worth a visit, it being a Carthusian monastery as opposed to the more usual Cistercian monasteries that thrived in this area (see also Byland Abbey, not far from Sutton Bank) and they had a rather different way of life to the Cistercians. Above Mount Grace and a short walk from Osmotherley, again along the Cleveland Way/Coast to Coast Walk is the lady chapel that was part of Mount Grace Priory. Its dedication to (unusually) Catherine of Aragon may have saved it from the ravages of the dissolution.

Something that needn’t detain you overlong is Sutton Bank, beyond the admittedly massive views over the Vale of York from the top. I recently stayed at the Fauconberg Arms in Coxwold not far from Sutton Bank. The village is charming and is notable for Shandy Hall where Lawrence Sterne (who was also the village cleric) wrote ‘Tristram Shandy’. Check opening times for the infrequent trips round Shandy Hall.

Similarly there isn’t much at Rosedale Abbey. It is the start of the ‘Hanging Stones’ walk, a six miles or so walk to a series of art installations by Andy Goldsworthy. However, prior booking is required - the thing gets booked up months ahead - as numbers are limited because the installations are in old farm buildings and each needs a key to unlock to gain access, they key being collected before setting off (route map/guide also supplied). Some of the hiking can be a little rugged, not to mention wet underfoot (not a problem lately!) but is well worth the effort. Beyond Rosedale are the industrial remains of the ironstone works and railway if that floats your boat, some accessed by the infamous Rosedale Chimney motor road climb. While in the area, don’t miss a chance to visit the Lion Inn at Blakey Topping, a pub sat in glorious isolation atop a moorland ridge.

Hopefully, if driving you can work out a driving route that will take you on a circuitous route to visit some a of these slightly off the beaten track places! If you need more information, please feel free to ask! Have a great trip!

Ian

Posted by
10247 posts

That is very interesting about the Hanging Stones walk. Thanks, Ian, for that.

I have been a "fan" of Andy Goldsworthy since his sheepfolds work in Cumbria, amazingly over 20 years ago now.

From everything I've seen about his work since, I would definitely recommend it.

Posted by
10119 posts

Speaking of the Cleveland Way, you can walk to Rievaulx Abbey from Helmsley along the Cleveland Way which is a short hike (I’m unsure of the public transport options back so you may have to make the return journey on foot as well).

One option there would be to reverse this. Just park at the car park at Rievaulx Abbey, and then walk to Helmsley along the Cleveland Way. Then you could get a cab back to the Abbey. There is a taxi stand in the middle of town on the Market Square.

Posted by
10247 posts

Buses to Rievaulx run on Sunday only until the end of September - service M4, part of the Moorsbus network.
From Helmsley at 1027, 1227, 1427 and 1707;
From Rievaulx at 1048, 1248, 1448 and 1548

Posted by
7414 posts

Thank you, everyone. It all just sounds so wonderful, these are hard choices. I heard somewhere (maybe here) to avoid Thirsk on a market day. Well, the day we were going to day trip out of York turns out to be a Saturday, one of the market days. I sent the museum an email asking whether its better, then, to go in the afternoon. Haven't heard back. We could go to Castle Howard and see how it goes, if we had time after, we could go to Thirsk or Helmsley and the abbey?

Oh man, Bempton Cliffs sounds amazing. I do like birding. If one of my daughters was with us, we'd definitely go. I swear she knows every bird in the world, and gets so excited to see them "in person". Definitely I'd go if there were puffins, but we'll be there in September. I am calculating that it is more than an hour drive from Whitby.

Posted by
1769 posts

I assume the recommendation for Thirsk market day avoidance is because of parking. Museum website says center city parking (where market is held) or Station parking. Just to give you more data points as you plan, I walked to the museum from the station, past this parking lot.

Google says 25 minute walk, that is maybe a little generous. Flat, sidewalk, past the racecourse dull scenery until you take a short cut thru a little park with an old castle site. http://www.ecastles.co.uk/thirsk.html

I note the market itself doesn’t have positive recent TripAdvisor reviews. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g499612-d12547968-Reviews-Thirsk_Market-Thirsk_North_Yorkshire_England.html