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Need input on a two-week driving itinerary of north England

Hello.

I have spend quite a bit of time researching our two-week driving itinerary, but I would like some input from those that have visited or live in this region of England.

Our primary interests include the following:

Traditional villages (and pubs!)

Nature / scenery

History and culture (including English Heritage sites and historic homes)

Avoiding big cities (this will be our first time driving in the UK)

Here is what I have planned:

Fly into Manchester and pick-up rental car

1 night at a B&B in the Peak District

3 nights in York

3 nights in Robin Hood's Bay

2 nights in Durham

2 nights on a farm outside near Ripon

3 nights in Grasmere (Lake District)

1 night at hotel at Manchester Airport to return car and catch early flight home

I would very much appreciate some thoughts and suggestions, or confirmation that this would be a good itinerary.

Thank you in advance.

Posted by
277 posts

I'm sure you'll get better advice but...we've driven to York and Durham and thoroughly loved them. This year our driving itinerary takes us to Scotland but we're coming back with two nights in York before heading back to Heathrow. We're curious about your responses, too, to see what's recommended in the Midlands. We have also stayed two nights in the Lake District in Keswick and found it gorgeous.

Posted by
1344 posts

Hi Rowdy -

As a northern England resident I feel it’s my duty to offer you some pointers on things that might fit your bill on your jaunt through the area!

There is enough to keep you occupied in York for the time you are there, other postings on the forum will give you plenty of suggestions (use the ‘search’ button). I also recommend the newer of the two pubs called ‘The House of Trembling Madness’ but there are lots of good ones in York. However, if you want to get the most out of your hire car you can venture outside to Beningborough Hall (National Trust) which is a lovely stately home about ten miles outside York. While in York you might want to explore the Yorkshire Dales. I would suggest Malham, a popular and pretty, busy village that has classic limestone scenery in Gordale Scar, Malham Cove and Janet’s Foss. You don’t say how big you are on walking/hiking, but there’s a classic walk: Janet’s Foss - Gordale Scar - Malham Cove which can be done without the rock climb out of Gordale Scar (follow the path left of the Scar which leads steadily upwards to the limestone pavement on the top of the Cove. Pavement requires sure-footedness and don’t get too near the edge! A stepped path leads to the bottom of the Cove). Two good pubs in Malham, The Buck Inn and The Listers Arms.

While in Robin Hoods Bay, which itself is rather special as I’m sure you know already, be sure to visit Whitby, which is a nice mix of old fishing port and traditional British seaside holiday tat (!) with the ruins of an abbey atop the cliffs (English Heritage I think). The church at the top of the ‘99 Steps’ is worth a visit if it is open for its proliferation of box pews. Also the smaller and less spoiled Staithes and Runswick Bay on the coast are worth a look-see.

Mr. Steves isn’t a fan of the North Yorkshire Moors I think - they are big, empty and bleakly beautiful. The North Yorks Moors Railway will take you south through them from Whitby to Pickering and back. There are several lovely villages set in the moors - Goathland, Lastingham, Hutton Le Hole to name but a few.

Durham might well be a good place to visit Hadrians Wall from (a visit to the Cathedral is compulsory though!). If you can get to the wall I would suggest near Vindolanda so you can visit the museum. The wall is at its wildest and most scenic as it sweeps over the crags near Housesteads fort.

While near Ripon don’t miss the fantastic Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal deer park. Enough there for a whole day especially if you can get into St Mary’s Church in the deer park (Victorian but interesting!). Also nearby, but open infrequently is the splendid Markenfield Hall, complete with moat. You’d need to check their website to see if one of their opening days coincides with your visit, but I’m guessing that not too many people get to see it, it’s very low key, but an amazing place.

Possibly the best way to approach the Lake District from near Ripon is to go up the A1 to Scotch Corner (it’s nowhere near Scotland!) and take the A66 via Penrith to Keswick, sweeping under the dramatic Blencathra, before turning south on the A591 towards Thirlmere and beyond that Grasmere. Scenic way in, especially if the weather is good. Alternative route takes you from Ripon cross country to the A65 and then up to the Lakes via the southern edge of the Dales into Windermere and north, again on the A591, to Grasmere via Ambleside.

Grasmere is ‘Lake District Poets Central’ and the main draw is Wordsworth’s Dove Cottage set on the side of the main road just outside the village. If you are still full of energy there are loads of good walks in the area - you’ll be able to pick up suitable maps and guides in the village, I’m sure. Helm Crag is Grasmere’s equivalent of Keswick’s Catbells (see Rick’s video on the site) if you want an aerial view of the surrounding area!

I hope I’ve given you some food for thought! Any questions, feel free! Have a great trip!

Ian

Posted by
6113 posts

At last, a different, more interesting itinerary than usual!

There is plenty to see in this area, so you will be spoilt for choice as to what to cover and what you will have to miss out on.

When are you travelling? If May through August, see if there are any well dressings (traditional floral displays) happening in the Peak District - derbyshiredales.gov.uk.

York - the Rail Museum is worth a visit.

Robin Hood’s Bay can be very bracing if it’s windy. The cliff top walk is a must. Whitby is a worthwhile day trip.

Another good day trip is Beamish Open Air Museum near Durham, showing how life was many years ago.

Grasmere in the Lakes can be very busy. If you want something more off the beaten path, consider Eskdale - stunning scenery.

English Heritage deals with castles and ruins, whereas the National Trust’s portfolio is mainly houses and gardens. If you are visiting in the summer and are interested in gardens, see ngs.org.uk as some people open their gardens for charity and it’s a good opportunity to be nosey! Many serve homemade cakes.

Posted by
1344 posts

Hi again Rowdy -

The suggestion to rail straight to York is a good one unless you have something specific in mind in the Peak District. There are trains direct to York from the airport station and even if you book on a specific train there is a three hour ‘window’ in case your flight is delayed.

Parking is difficult and expensive in York unless your accommodation offers free parking. You won’t need the car to explore central York at all, and it’s definitely not car friendly - the entrance for vehicles through Micklegate Bar is a great indication of this, unchanged since mediaeval times! Maybe hire a car from York on one of your later days there if you need to go further afield. Push come to shove you could return the car to York and rail across to Manchester Airport on the return leg (although admittedly return at the airport would be ideal, and may be possible). If you do rail back to Manchester as you leave the station, up the escalator, and turn left, by the exit doors is a white (I think) wall mounted phone which will summon a pick up by courtesy bus to your hotel. We’ve only just discovered this and it is so much better than dicing with the traffic to walk to any nearby hotel! One final point on the rail journey. At Manchester Piccadilly station (I think it’s Piccadilly) the train changes direction so you as you leave you appear to be travelling back the way you came. It’s OK, don’t freak out or panic!

As for the extra day, I would tag it onto the Lake District. It’s a huge area and there’s lots to explore there. Eskdale IS stunning but the drive there over the Wrynose and Hard Knott passes will test your newly acquired English driving skills to limits, in a fun way!

Ian

Posted by
8322 posts

We did a 28 day drive tour of Wales and England that included the North of England. We loved the North. We did:

York 3 nights
Pickering 1 night then Yorkshire moors to
Whitby on the North Sea.
Durham 2 nights
Haltwhistle and Hadrian's Wall and Roman museum/fort 1 night
Lake District, Keswick 3 nights

Here is my detailed review of our trip:
28 days in Britain and Celebrity Eclipse home
https://www.cruisecritic.com/memberreviews/memberreview.cfm?EntryID=599139

Posted by
121 posts

I second (or third!) the suggestion to catch the train from Manchester to York unless you have a specific reason to visit the Peak District (and who wouldn’t?). If you’re first time drivers in the uk it’s not just the cities that could be difficult but many of the areas you are interested in are cross crossed with small narrow lanes which may be better tackled after a few days experience.
If you wish to get out of York during your visit there nearby historic houses worth a visit (as well as beningborough) are Castle Howard and Burton Agnes. Both can be reached by public transport but buses to Burton Agnes via Pocklington are probably more frequent. You could stop in Pocklington on your way through - a very typical small English town where you would almost certainly be the only person visiting from the US that day (also has one of the National collections of water lilies). Sit in the front seats on the top deck of the bus from Pocklington and you will get a great view of the countryside. There are some great little villages (and pubs) in this undiscovered (and therefore quiet) part of Yorkshire but you will need a car to access them and to brave narrow lanes. If you feel up to that I can point you in their direction.

Posted by
888 posts

I also think this looks like a nice itinerary. And I agree about not wanting a car in York. Even if your hotel in York provides parking, the spaces will probably be teeny tiny. If you can figure out a way to start in York, then get a car, you’ll be happy you did so.

I love Durham and the cathedral is my favorite!

You don’t mention Hadrian’s Wall, another of my favorite places. I would do Hadrian’s Wall and skip the Lake District, but that’s a personal preference.

Posted by
1344 posts

I’m glad a couple of others have mentioned Castle Howard. I keeping forgetting about it. I don’t know why, it’s big enough. Maybe a case of familiarity breeding contempt!

Posted by
1526 posts

If you are flying into Manchester; spend your first night in Chester which is really close. There are lots of B & Bs and small Hotels...we stayed at a Pub! It's a great place to rewind after a flight. There's a historic Roman wall that takes you on a walk around town, several restaurants, and even horse racing in season. Look at the National Trust UK online site for great itinerary ideas. For Overseas visitors, they have a Touring Pass for 7 or 14 days for couples that may save you on admissions in England and Wales. I enjoy visiting their properties because there is a huge variety of places that show history and culture plus seasonal events. English Heritage also has a pass; some may be joint with National Trust. Also look at the English Treasure House list; Castle Howard is one. Visit Chatsworth! It is near the Peak District. As for the Lake District it is very pretty but has too many visitors...since you have a car you can adjust your time. We enjoy driving linearly; that is going from A to B to C without having to go back to A unless everything is close. Once we did stay in one place for a week as a guest but it did drive me crazy having to back track. You can book ahead by phone as you proceed if you don't hit a bank holiday or high tourist impact at the location.

Posted by
6113 posts

Chester, although interesting, is in completely the wrong direction from Manchester Airport if your first port of call is York.