Need a scenic route in Northumberland

In olden [pre-digital] days, one would look at a paper map, trace out a route, and follow it - the roads shown on the map would eventually bring you to you destination. Sometimes it resulted in an unexpected discovery. Follow your instincts and take the leisurely drive.

You could do worse than heading to Rothbury with nearby Cragside well worth seeing
Then maybe head up to Bryness and pick up the forest toll road (£3) over the tops to Kielder.
Theres several sculptures in the Kielder forest and the Observatory does a ver poplular series of lectures and make a very decent hot chocolate in the interval too.

If you’re feeling adventurous, and it’s a nice day weather-wise, from Rothbury head to Alwinton and continue along the upper Coquet Valley eventually coming out on the A68 towards Otterburn. As it’s a Saturday, the road will be open despite the signs indicating no through road.

You’ll pass by Chew Green https://www.northumberlandnationalpark.org.uk/places-to-visit/north-tyne-redesdale/chew-green/

Then from Otterburn > Bellingham > the B6138 (the Military Road) towards Haltwhistle.

Or if you prefer, from Rothbury cut down to Elsdon and then across to Otterburn.
https://englandsnortheast.co.uk/rothbury/

Get a decent road atlas when in the UK don't just rely on digital mapping

You know I haven't driven this area but I also enjoyed the Preston Pele Tower. IF it looks interesting to you, you might want to see that from Seahouses. I'll also add that I enjoyed the Belsay Hall, Castle and Quarry Gardens which you might be able to route thru.

https://www.historichouses.org/house/preston-tower/visit/

https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/belsay-hall-castle-and-gardens/

Instead of going cross country you could instead head down the A1 but then drop off the A69 and discover some of the Tyne Valley. Wylam, Prudhoe, Stocksfield and Corbridge are all pretty small towns with riverside walks. You could also stop into Cherryburn, National Trust run birthplace of the naturalist Thomas Bewick. In Wylam you can visit the birthplace of George Stephenson (also NT), inventor of the Steam locomotive. This is situated on a lovely riverside walk which follows the route of the old railway line used to transport coal.

I'd caution against the Forest road - it's really rough ground

But of all the NT properties in the region Cragside is definitely the top one to see so that would be a really worthwhile stop. However it does take quite a long time so it depends if you’d rather have shorter stops at smaller places.

I haven’t owned a road atlas in years and just use Google Maps. You can end up on some very narrow roads. When there’s grass growing up the middle we start to laugh ‘It’s another google special!’. It does tend to always want to take the shortest route which, in the countryside, is not always the quickest or most pleasant.

When I look at aa route planner (wondering if there was a road closure somewhere) it gives me the via Otterburn route as Option 2- only 12 minutes longer than via Newcastle- https://www.theaa.com/route-planner/route?from=Chillingham%20Castle,%20Chillingham,%20Alnwick,%20UK&to=Haltwhistle,%20UK

As a Brit I would always either the AA or RAC route planners.

There is nothing on the County Council website about road closures on the scenic route either.

Interesting that the AA Option 2 sends you from Chollerford into Haltwhistle down the Military Road (along the wall).

But playing around with AA route planner does suggest that something is happening with the road from Chollerford to the A69 via Acomb. I have to really force AA to use that three miles of road, by asking it to get me to Hexham Postal Sorting Office!!

This is the Kielder Forest road mentioned above- https://www.forestryengland.uk/kielder-castle/kielder-forest-drive

Allowing for a visit to see Chillingham Castle and the Wild Cattle, it is probably going to be lunch time by the time you are on the road.

From Chillingham head to the A697 and then take a right tun onto the B6341 through Rothbury (rather nice small town with a lot of character) , Elsdon (if time allows make a brief stop to see Elsdon Tower, a Vicar’s Pele by the church) to the A696. Turn right onto the A696 to Otterburn where you need to turn left onto the 6320 signed Bellingham and stay on this road down the North Tyne Valley through Wark to pick up the B6318 at Chollerford. Turn right on to this . This is the ‘Military Road’ which runs along the course of the Roman Wall. It is very straight and fast but but watch out for the blind dips. At the Milecastle Inn, take a left turn at the crossroads which will take you into Haltwhistle.

This is much slower than the direct route through Newcastle, but takes you through some of the finest scenery in Northumberland as well as some of the small villages and towns.

(I had thought about the Forest Drive from the A68 through Kielder Forest to Kielder and then down to Bellinmgham, but I think this may still be closed in late April. I’m also not sure how your insurance would cover you if you damaged the car on that road. It is a private toll road. For information, @ ramblin' on while the road is unsurfaced - it is a forest road - it has been repaired recently so shouldn’t be quite as bad as it was. The website does warn there may be loose stones though. The speed limit is 15mph and you wouldn’t want to do much more than that.)

I have hiked through a fair bit of the border forest the roads are in good shape

markcw, ha! Well, the last time I was in Yorkshire in 1996, I did have a paper map (a good one, too) and tried to follow my instincts, and wound up getting totally lost on the North Yorkshire Moors. I drove aimlessly for about 2 hours until I finally found someone who got me in the right direction. I'd prefer that not happen this time. 😊

Richard, that sounds like an interesting route! And I do like hot chocolate. Thank you!

ramblin' on, that's good to know about the signage! Thanks! I will check that route out, and look into getting a good road map, although that didn't help me much back in 1996. 🤣

Pam, that does look interesting! I could probably see that when I'm heading up from Yorkshire. I'll be coming from Durham as I want to stop there for a bit and see the cathedral. Thanks! I'll check out Belsay Hall, which looks like it's in that area, too.

Helen, I think that's the original route that Google was taking me through (or near to it). I guess I just assumed that because it was so close to Newcastle, that it would be more highway and fast driving. I might get a Google Street view of all this and see what looks good. Those do sound lovely, though. Thanks! Just saw the second note. I checked out Cragside and it really looks pretty nice. I might be a little castled out by that time, though, if I stop at Chillingham first. Which would be better to see? I definitely want to see the wild cattle, though. Also, very good to know about Google maps. Seriously, maps are not my friend. I love maps (and they make great gift wrap!), but it's definitely easier for me with Google telling me where to go. Google maps worked fine in Scotland. 😊

Stuart, I think that's the second option that Google gave me but I had to put in Otterburn as a dummy destination. Interesting. I have no idea what maps or route planners you are talking about, though. What is AA and RAC? Also, thank you for the Kielder Forest road site! I was wondering what that was. It really looks beautiful.

wasleys, that route looks very nice as well! I'm going to plot all these suggestions out over the next few days. Thanks! And thank you for the info on Kielder Forest road (you too, Richard!). It really does look beautiful and is probably fine, but with a rental car, I think I would rather not chance it.

Hi Mardee

The main road is the A69 which is a dual carriageway. The places I mentioned are along that general route but not on the main road. You’d take quieter roads that go through the towns and villages, then you can stop for a walk and a look around.

Cragside is a grand Victorian house rather than a castle. It was owned by a wealthy industrialist and was technically way ahead of its time being lit by hydro electricity. The grounds are stunning. It’s very interesting to visit.

Cragside will offer a better visitor experience than Chillingham where not much is open to the public, but it depends on your interests as to which would be preferable. I don’t know if you’re guaranteed to see the cattle.

I can’t read a map and drive at the same time so Google it is.

Mardee, The AA (Automobile Association) and the RAC (Royal Automobile Club) are the two main motoring associations in the UK- well known for their breakdown cover, but also much else. Rather like your AAA.

The AA, especially, goes back to the earliest days of cars. Nowadays there are competitors in breakdown cover- who are a lot cheaper. Apart from when I had a Company Car (when there was Corporate AA cover) my own choice was always one of the competitors- like Green Flag. But they are just breakdown cover, nothing more- hence the lower price.

You know by now that I am a fossil, so I use the AA (for some inexplicable reason not the RAC) for route planning, not other online tools. I think I just inherited that preference from Dad.

PS-if taking the via Newcastle ring road route I like Helen's deviations very much.

I don’t know if you’re guaranteed to see the cattle.

Helen, well, you book a tour, and it sounds like you usually can see them. They said that you might have to walk farther to get to them on some days, so we'll see. I'll check out both Chillingham and Cragside. I could stop at Chillingham for the 10 am tour to see the cattle, and then head down to Cragside to see the house and gardens. Then continue on my scenic route.

I can’t read a map and drive at the same time so Google it is.

And yes, therein lies the problem as well. It's hard to play navigator and pilot at the same time.

Stuart, ha ha!! Okay, that makes sense now! Except for breakdown cover - what does that mean? If I had to guess, I would say it was a tow truck that comes to fix or tow cars that have broken down on the road. Am I right? 😊

Yes, that's right. Usually they will send a mechanic in a van. If he can't fix it roadside then he'll call a tow truck. Kind of an insurance policy.

Depending on your level of cover it would also cover you at home- say your battery went flat overnight.

Don't you have that stateside?

If you broke down in your rental car then the rental company will likely have such a contract with some company. So you call the rental company then they call out the AA or whoever.

Stuart, yes, we do have all that. We just don't call it a breakdown cover. We call it roadside assistance.

ramblin' on, that website you linked to - https://englandsnortheast.co.uk - is really fascinating. There is so much history in there about all the places, including many of the small towns. Thanks so much for providing that. I'm really enjoying looking through it. Now if I only had a year or so to visit all those places!

wasleys, you mentioned turning at Milestone Inn. I read something about that the Milestone Inn in a guidebook that said the food was good. It's near where I'm staying at the Old School House in Haltwhistle, so I was thinking that it would be a good place for dinner. Would you (or anyone) agree? I'm also planning to eat at some point at the Twice Brewed Inn.

pleased you found the website useful - there's a lot to see in the northeast.

No idea about the Milestone Inn - it should be OK.

This one wins a lot of awards https://www.theratinn.com/ just outside Hexham

too much choice!

Make sure you swing by Vera's house for a cuppa, pet.

I've not eaten at the Milecastle Inn but it gets 4.5 stars on Trip Advisor. Locally it has a good reputation.

Ha ha, Mary! I just need to eat before I get there so she doesn't steal my food.

ramblin' on, The Rat Inn looks great and I love the name. The menu looks good AND they have sticky toffee pudding. Thanks!

I found another restaurant called Hjem in Hexham that a British magazine raved about, but their tasting menu was £150 so I think I'll pass on that. 🤣

Stuart, thank you! That's good to know that locals like it (and TA)!

If you are going to eat in Hexham and you are in the mood for something different, I had an excellent dinner at a Mexican restaurant there. Awesome margarita and delicious burrito. The owner is from Mexico and the food is authentic. I'll find the name for you. It was good to get some spicy food after nearly a month in Europe. IF there is Evensong at the cathedral that was a lovely experience.

I did the tour to see the Chillingham cattle last May. You are taken up in a covered trailer pulled by a Land Rover and they get as close to the gate as possible. We did not have to walk far - maybe 1/8-1/4 mile to see them but we were also not real close but close enough to see their red ears, lol.

Yes, Pam, please get me the name! I'm getting hungry just reading about it! And thanks for the tip about Evensong - I would love to hear that. Are you talking about Hexham Abbey? I'm really looking forward to seeing that. I found a site that has a ton of info about its history. And good to know about the cattle. From what I understand, you probably don't want to get too close. I've read that they are vicious when mating.

Yes, Hexham Abbey. I didn't go over early enough for the Evensong service to go down in the crypt and could have kicked myself for not doing some research first!

Well, the restaurant is called Little Mexico, lol. I did not remember that was what it was called, lol. It is right around the corner from the Abbey and very easy to get to after Evensong. He will make things as hot as you want. I asked for medium heat based on HIS palate.

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g186351-d7986927-Reviews-or105-Little_Mexico-Hexham_Northumberland_England.html

Thanks, Pam! I checked out the website and it looks very fun--I love the decor! It's closed now but said it opens for the season on Feb. 15. I don't think I will be ordering medium spice, though. I'm a wimp although as I've gotten older, I have started to eat more spicy food.

Hjem has a Michelin star. It’s proper fine dining. Slightly unusually, a lot of the country’s top restaurants are in rural spots that people like to visit for short breaks rather than in the towns and cities where they actually live. The Lake District has a lot of Michelin star restaurants for example.

Helen, I figured it had at least one Michelin star after visiting the website. And I love good restaurants and usually don't mind paying for the atmosphere and the wonderful food. But I'm spending so much on this trip that I have to draw the line somewhere. The food on their website really did look incredible.

That is interesting about how so many Michelin restaurants are in very rural areas. I guess they must get a lot of customers to survive, though.

Mardee,

Further to my post last week about the temporary entrance at Carlisle station, I was there at 7.30 this morning. Much to my surprise the main entrance has been strengthened and re-opened. I often wonder about the balance of detail to give people about changes. Sometimes I get that balance right, sometimes not.
All the information had been that it would take many months, and was a big job.
Presumably further engineering assessments proved otherwise. You can see the big chunk of sandstone missing from the structural column though.

Thanks, Stuart - I'm happy to hear that the work is going well!