Mistake? or Opportunity?

Opportunity!

Travel is a privilege!

First, excellent choice in airlines. Best carrier to the UK.

Durham is a pleasant place to experience. The cathedral is gorgeous.

Visit the Farmers Market.

Stroll along the river path.

Have coffee at the Riverview Cafe.

If a fan of the Inspector George Gently series be sure to walk across Prebends Bridge. https://amp.theguardian.com/uk/the-northerner/2012/sep/20/george-gently-durham-cathedral-martin-shaw

If you’d like a quiet pint then saunter up to Ye Olde Elm Tree pub. Spent a few pleasant hours there with some neighborhood regulars. I was staying fairly close by in an airbnb. I’d share the property but the owner has moved away and its no longer available.

GO!!! See friends.

Dear Kathleen: You will find the weather not that much different than home as they have a Marine climate, too. The Temperature is 40 to 50 degrees, a little breezy and rainy, but the clouds sail by with maybe some sun. You will really enjoy York and Durham as the Holiday Season approaches there will be a lot going on; especially in the Churches. Before you go read about the Venerable Bede who is in a Cabinet near St. Cuthbert in Durham Cathedral. He is one of the first to write in the English Language. He mostly wrote about the miracles performed by Cuthbert that would qualify him for Sainthood. The Cathedral has spectacular carved stone columns, each unique. York, of course, has the York Minster with the famous Rose Windows. Be sure to walk the Walls around the old city. If you can take a Tour of Castle Howard, a Famous Neo-Classical Palace on a great estate. Your friend should know of many other fabulous places. Just dress for the weather and live like a local! Your Camano Island Friend also a Kathleen!

Good for you! Have a great time.

Can you get your points refunded?

Thank you for the responses. Claudia, I am excited to fly Virgin. My friend said the same thing and I have never flown them before. Thank you for the encouragement and the link.
Kathleen, I appreciate all your suggestions and am looking forward to seeing the churches especially. I am familiar with Bede and St Cuthbert part of the reason I want to go to Durham. Travel is a priviledge and in my experience alot about expectations. I plan to go and enjoy the season.
Kindly,
Kathleen

Just make sure you have good, comfortable rain gear that you have "road tested". I enjoy experiencing England in the rain as long as I have the right gear.

Opportunity,

I would echo that the weather will be very much the same as your part of WA- especially at that time of year I am comparing the weather daily with that of a friend from Seattle.

At St Bees (only 5 minutes down the road from me) you are spoilt for choice. It is the start of Wainwright's Coast to Coast path- you could do the first leg of that in 2 parts (due to hours of daylight) getting your friend to pick you back up in Cleator or Ennerdale. And on that leg 1 you will encounter one of our good railway trails- a network of old railways converted into walking paths (again like in WA). Or St Bees is on Cumbria's coast path- you could spend a week just walking that path.

One possible easy section is to start the C2C, but then at St Bees Lighthouse continue through to Georgian Whitehaven. Visit the Beacon Museum and also the Rum Museum- the latter tells you a lot about the town's trading past when we were in the top three harbours in the UK- with worldwide trade.
Also look into the Parish Church of Whitehaven- St James' (up on the hill)- a fine example of a Georgian Church- in Simon Jenkins' book of 1000 best churches.
Your friend will show you the several monuments in Whitehaven relating to the coal industry, and the serious accidents relating to that, and the at times huge loss of life that happened. But also the mosaic pit wheel on the pavement of the nave of the former St Nicholas' Church (largely burnt down in 1971). That names every pit which once existed in the town.
Back to loss of life- in the Queen Street/Duke street corner of the Churchyard see the Children's Mines Memorial- to the many children (some as young as kindergarten age) who died working in the pits.
Inside St Nicholas' if its a day it is open) is the town Book of Remembrance to all who died in our pits.
And while at the Church you should see the internal and external plaques about Mildred Gale (nee Warner) - the paternal grandmother of George Washington (1st president of the United States). Wikipedia has the story of her lost grave wrong, but no surprise there.

Go back to St Bees on the hourly train service from Whitehaven or Corkickle.

If you have time on another day you could go up to the Senhouse Roman Museum at Maryport on the train (even maybe look at the site of Whitehaven's Roman fort at Moresby).
Or down on the train to Ravenglass- again Roman remains there, also the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway (the "Ratty"), and Muncaster Castle (maybe not open at that time of year).

It's also just over the hour on the train to Carlisle for the Cathedral, the Castle and Tullie House Museum (so a good really wet day alternative).

Hop up on the train to Workington then the X4/X5 bus takes you to Keswick twice an hour, every hour.

I don't know how long you are at St Bees for but myriads of possibilities.

Even in the village you might like to visit the West Cumberland Railway Museum- if he's not open when you are there just contact Peter and he'll open up for you. (EDIT- 11 November, his last scheduled opening day was last Saturday, 4 November)

In St Bees of course there is the Priory Church which you should visit. The local history group have done a huge amount of work on the history of the Priory and the Village- which is in folders in there, also a lot of it on line. You could spend many hours in there just reading up on the history. If you were really interested get your friend to put you in touch with Bob and Ian who have done so much of the work- it's a small village- everyone knows everyone else.

I hope you are flying on Virgin into Manchester for the easy journey by train to St Bees- one change at either Lancaster or Barrow.

Sorry this response has got far too long.

Hi Kathleen -

To quote Arthur Ransome (and I frequently do): “Grab a chance and you won’t be sorry for a might-have-been”.

Ian

Definitely an opportunity. One great advantage is that places won't be as busy as in summer. Main disadvantage will be the shorterdr day lengths. - Weather - who knows! You can get some wonderful sunny days in Neovember, so fingers crossed!

York and Durham are good choices with many things to do and see. Both are very different and have the advantage of being walkable. Just some thoughts to get you started...

Durham

I love the stark Norman architecture of the nave of Durham Cathedral and the contrast of the much lighter architecture of the Galilee Chapel at the west end. Venerable Bede is buried here and do look up to see the remains of wall paintings. Cuthbert is buried behind the high altar. The museum is also worth visiting with its relics of St Cuthbert.

Do a guided tour of Durham Castle, one of the Colleges of residence for students at Durham University.

There are also some lovely walks along the river banks.

If time allows, consider a visit to Beamish, the living Museum of the North. You can easily spend a whole day here as there is so much to see and do. Old buildings from around the area have been reassembled here and there are costumed interpreters. There is a reconstruction of a 1900s town complete with shops, a C19th colliery village complete with mine you can enter, 1940s farm, C17th manor house, railway station , trolley buses and lots, lots more. Check out the dates of their Forest of Light - a wonderful end to a day there!

There may well be Christmas activities too. Contact Durham Tourist Information to ask them, once you know what dates you are planning to be in Durham.

Newcastle is just a short trip away so contact them about activities when you are there.
https://newcastlegateshead.com/contact

Continued as there wasn't enough space for York...

York

You are really spoilt for choice as York is bursting with things to do and see and is a wonderful place to explore on foot - and do walk round the medieval walls.

The Minster is one of the best Gothic buildings in England and don’t miss the Kings of England from William the Conqueror to Henry VI on the stone screen separating nave and quire. There is also the Norman crypt as well the undercroft with the Roman remains. Do attend the choral evensong in the quire. It is a magical experience with the voices of the choir echoing around the building. Afterwards, leaving the cathedral and stepping out into the dark and lit streets is a bit like going back to the times of Dickens.

Check if Holy Trinity Church on Goodramgate is open. It is now redundant and in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust. The inside is wonderful with its box pews gradually collapsing in the nave.

There is Jorvik and the Viking city.

Treasurer’s House (check website as it isn’t open everyday.)

Barley Hall a medieval merchant’s house

The Georgian Fairfax House

Visit Clifford’s Tower or the wonderful Merchant Venturer’s Hall

The National Railway Museum is popular with all ages with its collection of locos and old carraiges (don’t miss the Royal coaches) is also worth visiting.

There is the Castle Museum, although the part with the street scenes is currently closed after safety concerns.

Visit the Information Centre at 21 Parliament square for a map of York and lots on information about things to do and see.
You will also be there for the start of the Christmas activities too. York Christmas market will be in full swing - another bonus!

It's also a chance to celebrate. There are several good pubs in St Bees, which your friend will know of, and quite a few in Whitehaven. I don't really do restaurant recommendations as it's a personal thing. But the Zest restaurant in Whitehaven, with it's harbourside location would be a good choice for a celebratory meal.

It may be unseasonal, but do have a Hartleys ice cream down at their cafe on.St Bees beach.

If walking round Whitehaven Harbour there is a locally based coffee truck out most days close to Zest, at incredibly reasonable prices, and several mom and pop cafes in the town centre. You won't go hungry or thirsty!!

For afternoon tea you could go to the Woodlands Tea Room at Santon Bridge (car needed), the Trout Hotel at Cockermouth (with it's riverside views), Armathwaite Hall, or the Orient Express coaches at Bassenthwaite Lake Station (locally known as Bass Lake), among other choices. These are all very good places, and all at a fraction of the price you would pay in London.

Hi Kathleen, Seize the opportunity! I haven’t gone through what you have medically, but I am feeling the same way about taking advantage of time and not putting things off. I think you will be so glad you chose to go now!

Just to add to suggestions of things to do, we found this unique conservation tour at the York Minster that we would have loved to take part in, but it was offered on a day other than when we went. (It’s offered on Mondays) If you read the description of the tour, there are some physical restrictions, so it may or may not suit you at this point of your recovery. I would imagine if you are interested, you could email them to gain more specific information based on your health status.

York is one of the most interesting cities I’ve ever been to. Even if this tour isn’t a good option now, the whole area surrounding York is fascinating. I hope you enjoy every single minute of your three weeks! So glad you can go!

https://tickets.yorkminster.org/webstore/shop/viewItems.aspx?cg=HTO&c=SNSTS

...what have I done?...should have saved those points for a ticket in the spring...

Kathleen, It's definitely an opportunity. Go and enjoy! The weather might not be perfect, but there will be fewer crowds, and both will help you achieve the solitude you seek. Someone much smarter than I once said "It's perfectly ok to regret doing somthing, but it's not ok to regret not doing something."

"I recently went through cancer treatment and so far, the prognosis is positive. I guess I am feeling live now life is short."

THIS! ^ ^ This is the very best reason to go! Decrease your stress and give your mind, eyes and brain a break from your usual routine.

During and since Covid I think many of us have been reminded that life is short so grab what you can when it's available. Your bout with cancer makes this even more at the front of your mind. What's happened to you over the last however long you've been dealing with this diagnosis was unimagined before you had the health issue. I'm so pleased the prognosis is good and travel will get you in a good positive mindset!

Go. Enjoy the adventure!

Definitely an opportunity!
Britain can be quite wonderful in winter!
You deserve it.

I would say that the only mistake was probably not booking to fly into Manchester given the places you want to visit. But, given that Virgin don’t fly direct from Seattle to Manchester and you were using points that was probably not a practical option.

OP you will enjoy the service on Virgin Airlines. Did you book Premium Economy?

Food is tasty. Flight attendants well trained and pleasant.

You won’t be bored. Lots of entertainment on the screen on the back of the seat in front of you. Films, TV episodes, music.

Only once was I disappointed and that was do to parents not caring or bothering to control their 3 year old who ran up and down the aisles. Sadly fight attendants didn’t even attempt to ask the parents to stop their child from disrupting the flight until he fell and hit his head…the wailing brought them to their senses.

Start researching Time Out London, Lady in London and London x London websites for events, theatre offerings, etc.

Wherever you’ve chosen your accommodation look on Google Maps for closest tube station, market and church. Look at the church’s website to see if there might be Christmas carols and/or midnight mass.

I love this forum! Thank you for all the wonderful comments, quotes and suggestions. isn31c, thank you for all the local information this is super helpful and for the links to afternoon teas. Wasleys, thank you taking the time to insert the links and so many wonderful ideas. I am looking them all up and getting very excited. Mustlovedogs, this looks wonderful. I am thinking I want more than 3 nights in York. I did book Premium Economy and I only had enough points to get to London. I am looking forward to the actual flight after hearing so many positive reviews of Virgin. Again thanks to all. The collective wisdom on this forum always exceeds my expectations. I welcome all suggestions.

Kathleen, if you enjoy Afternoon tea, then Bettys in York is THE place to go! You can book afternoon tea and this saves having to queue for a table (and queues can get very long as it is very popular and consistently gets good reviews -negative ones often tell you more about the poster than the place...) Even if you don't splash out on afternoon tea, then go and buy a Fat Rascal in the bakery dowenstairs. It is a local delicacy (and very good.)

Somewhere else I've also enjoyed is the cafe at the Bar Convent on Blossom Street and a few minutes walk from the railway station. It is an interesting building with a fascinating history and is the oldest oldest surviving Roman Catholic convent in England. There is a a fascinating museum which tells the story of the convent. Do go and find the chapel on the first floor. You are unlikely to find it mentioned in the guide books but it is popular with locals . It is away from the tourist bustle and a lovely place to sit and relax. Food is good and good value compared with many other places in York. It also does accommodation.

Kathleen,

Someone suggested having tea at Betty's Tea Room in York. There are (or were) two Betty's Tea Rooms last time we were there. That might have changed by now. At any rate, if you decide to have tea there, go to the one on St. Helens Sq. Downstairs by the loos, airmen from nearby bases in WWII etched their names and such in the mirrors in the hall and they were still there several years ago. One has to wonder how many made it back home. A very moving piece history.

There were two Betty’s in York but now only one, the larger one. Of course the original Betty’s is in Harrogate and not York.

This is the story of the above mentioned mirrors- https://www.warbirdsonline.com.au/2020/08/18/memories-of-airmen-bettys-cafe-tea-rooms-york/

There is apparently a book at Betty's, recording their names.

It is unclear if anyone has done the research to establish who was killed in action.

If you are using trains from St Bees to Durham, use the very new Northern Rail Advance Fares- for specific timed trains.

If you book 2 or 3 weeks ahead you should get St Bees to Carlisle for £3.80, Carlisle to Newcastle for £3 and Newcastle to Durham for £2.90 on Transpennine, or very slightly more on LNER- so about £10- turn up and go fare is £32.90, so quite a saving.

These fares are widely available on many off peak trains.

Likewise an advance fare from Durham to York is usually about £15- walk up and go is £24.

If you book fairly soon you should get a London Euston to St Bees through train fare for as low as £36, on quite a few off peak trains a day. Often that is just one change- at Lancaster; otherwise a 2nd change at Barrow in Furness.

You can sometimes get a York to London Kings Cross fare for as low as £18, more likely £25 to £30- on a specific timed train.

If you are over 60 you can get a senior railcard to get 34% off almost all fares (even the crazy low Northern Advance Fares), for £30 - https://www.senior-railcard.co.uk/

A tourist is unlikely to find the few fares without railcard discount.

If you did get really good fares you might not end up even spending the aggregate £90 needed to make the railcard worthwhile.

Kathleen- Enjoy every minute of your trip!! Travel is a blessing to be counted. I flew Virgin Premium for the first time this summer and will definitely fly with them again. Don’t overthink a spur of the moment trip. You may find that the a ‘let’s see what the day holds’ trip can be really fun.
Happy Travels

There is a new Seafood Restaurant opening in Seascale on Friday 7 December [updated date, originally due early October]- called Salt.

Seascale is 2 request stops (Flag stops) and 2 stations south of St Bees on the train.

The fish and chip take away has been open since July and has been a huge success and is well recommended. Now they have a new restaurant, with a micro brewery attached. They will also do meat and pies!!

While in Seascale there is also Mawson's Ice Cream Parlour (ice cream, not gelato)- easily recognisable by the giant deckchair outside. All made with milk from their own cattle herd.

The railway station is the only one in the UK with signs warning about Adders- a venomous UK snake.

Anyone who does go to Seascale can't miss the memorial to what they call the West Cumbria Shootings of 2 June 2010- but is more widely known locally as The Copeland Tragedy. This is one of the worst mass shootings in UK history when 12 people were killed, and 11 injured- over a 24 mile stretch of West Cumbria. The shooter, Derrick Bird (a local taxi driver) then took his own life with his gun.

EDIT 25 November- The opening of the Restaurant side of the business confirmed- The takeaway is open 1600-1900 Wednesday, 1200-1900 Thursday to Sunday; The Restaurant is open 1700-2100 Thursday and 1200-2100 Friday to Sunday.
Hours will be expanded for the Summer at Easter 2024

Thank you all. I appreciate all the wonderful tips. Stacie, I have never taken a trip without having every night prebooked so this will be a new way to travel for me. I am excited.

I was reminded this morning about another very good local restaurant in West Cumbria, which is a bit of a local secret-

The Old Captains House- in Bigrigg (a village just north of Egremont)- only open Thursday to Sunday (including Sunday Lunch) and only bookable by facebook DM or by telephone.

I agree with the others: go for it!

I just wanted to reiterate that evensong at the minster is magical. The acoustics are astounding.

And we stayed three nights in the height of summer and it wasn’t enough. With shorter day light, I would definitely stay longer if you can.

There is also Choral Evensong at Carlisle Cathedral on Monday to Friday at 5.45 pm, which finishes nicely in time for the last train back to St Bees at 7.09pm

OP

A few days left before you depart.

Safe travels.

Look forward to your trip report when get back.

I too am looking forward to reading your trip report, especially your time in Cumberland, at St Bees- as that is a slightly unusual destination for this forum. And of course I have a vested interest in that part of the trip, hence why I have reworked this to bring two of the responses up to date.
I was also trying (quite hard) to find somewhere locally here for Thanksgiving for you, if you are here then but so far have drawn a blank.
I will actually be interested if your friend knows of anywhere for Thanksgiving, as I sure don't.

Kathleen, I hope you are having a good last few prep days before departure ! It looks like you have a LOT to look forward to.

Thank you all. I am leaving tomorrow. My plan is to fly into Heathrow take Elizabeth Line to my train heading to York. Four nights in York, train to Durham for 2 nights. Then train to Isle of Arran for 3 nights. This will all be solo. After 10 days on my own I will take the ferry/train to Carlisle to be picked up by my friend. Thank you for trying but I am fine not celebrating Thanksgiving. "When in Rome". My friend is planning the next 10 days prior to my return to London on Dec 4th. I will come back and report how it all plays out. Thank you so much for all the wonderful suggestions. My first time flying Virgin Atlantic.

Kindly,
Kathleen

Sounds wonderful - make the most of it!

Kathleen,

In case you haven't heard new strike dates have been announced for the trains.
Avanti are on strike on the 3 Dec, the day before you travel back.
However there is an overtime ban on 4 Dec. That is likely to mean unpredictable on the day cancellations and trains terminating or starting short.
So be flexible and be prepared to run an hour or so late, if that happens, but you will get there.
Because of the strike the previous day Avanti can be expected to be very busy on 4 December. If you purchased your tickets through Avanti (not some other train company) I would suggest logging into your account and paying to upgrade to Premium Standard for a better travelling experience.
If you purchased from elsewhere I would see, on the train on the day, about upgrading if there is room.
It is cars G and J.

Kathleen,

Just a heads up to keep a close eye on the Calmac service notices tomorrow- high winds are expected with a yellow watch currently for disruptions on Wednesday and Thursday. I would try to get to Ardrossan as soon as you can in case services have to be suspended later in the day as the weather deteriorates.

Kathleen, I’m thinking about this time you should be on the Isle of Arran in Scotland. That was one of my favorite places to visit and I really hope you enjoy it.

Kathleen,

I hope your friend is driving you to Carlisle, or at least Whitehaven, tomorrow morning- as all trains are now cancelled until mid afternoon from St Bees (in fact between Barrow and Whitehaven) due to the snow with no substitute buses running due to poor road conditions further south in the County.

The line is OK north of Whitehaven, although short notice cancellations are expected due to the overtime ban and that not all duties north of Whitehaven are covered by Workington based train crew. So drive to Carlisle would be the better option.

I am just taking care of our overseas visitors, and hoping you have enjoyed your visit to Cumbria.

The main line over Shap should be very scenic tomorrow.

I have had to cancel a trip to Manchester tomorrow as my ticket is only valid via Barrow.

Just arrived home last night and had a wonderful 3 weeks. So glad I went. Thank you all for information and encouragement. I did not take my computer and pretty much unplugged, but thank you isn31c for your up to date information. I did arrive on Isle of Arran the afternoon before the frerry was cancelled for 2 days. I loved it and will be going back in the spring. While the weather wasn't always my friend I managed to enjoy every moment. I would highly recommed The Belvedere on Isle of Arran. Allan the host was marvelous. Made his own Scotch Broth soup to share supper with me when the weather was to ugly to venture out. Wonderful breakfasts every morning.
The trains were a challenge at times but it helped having a local with a car. We basically chased the train north on the Dec 4th trying to catch it after it cancelled in St Bees. Ended up driving all the way to Carlisle. Lots of fell walking and beautiful villages in the Lake District. Very cold week. Last night I spend in London I am glad I opted to stay near Paddington Station. I was able to take underground to Bond Street and walked 6 miles looking at all the spectacular Christmas lights. All in all a smashing time.

Oh Virgin Atlantic is a dream. The plane in both directions was almost empty. Constant food and drink. I was only in Economy Delight and the amount of leg room was exceptional. Will only want to fly them in the future.

Kathleen,

Glad you enjoyed your time.

Tell me about the cold. For 9 straight days I was gritting local pavements in Whitehaven twice a day.

As it happens the only train that ran north from St Bees to Carlisle on Monday all day was the heavily delayed 2027 which arrived at Carlisle at 2224. There was only one train south at 1914 which by connections would have got you to Crewe at midnight.

The 0909 from Whitehaven actually ran, and the next London train ran on time from Carlisle to Preston where it got held and finally arrived into Euston 62 minutes late.

So if you had just been driven to Whitehaven you would have had a 2 hour delay.

So you might like to apply for delay repay through Northern (if you kept your ticket). You are entitled to a 100% refund on your train ticket. Tell them you got a lift to Whitehaven.
The other option you are entitled to (being 2 hours late) is two free return tickets to any Northern station. If your friend can use them that might be a nice thank you present for her.
You get blank ticket stock, and self issue on the day of travel to your chosen destination. There is no time limit on their use!!

Kathleen, thanks for letting us know how it went! And I'm so glad you liked Arran - that was one of my favorite places in Scotland.

One more update. I did have tea and scone in Riverview Cafe in Durham it was wonderful. Walked in and had the table in the corner with window views. We ended up having dinner in The Curious Mr. Fox which was excellent. Did the tour of Durham Cathedral and did go down to the Museum which was well worth it. In York the Christmas Market was early this year so lots of people and 5 different graduations taking place at York Minster. Good thing I booked 4 nights as it only opened last day I was in town. Went to Evensong. I also went to the Railway Museum very nice museum. While I was solo for half of my time it worked out well using buses and walking. I rely on phone apps for bus timetables. I absolutely loved the Yorkshire Museum well worth the trip.