London Art

I'm not an artist and have no training in art history, but I enjoy art museums, so here you go:

• The National Portrait Gallery is closed until 2023, so that's one you don't have to think about on this trip.

• The National Gallery is large and excellent. Unless you're willing to walk through every room no matter how long it takes (I have done that, but it definitely requires multiple visits for a museum this large), you should spend some time on the museum website, identifying the rooms/areas you're prepared to skip. I think the National Gallery would be must for any art-lover who likes traditional art. The museum is open till 9 PM on Friday. If you plan to visit then, stop at the information desk on your first visit to ask whether the entire museum, or just part of it, will be open late. I've encountered a few museums that are only partially open at night (often just the ground floor).

• The Tate Modern is also very good. It's in a repurposed former power plant (or something like that). Although the facility is large, a lot of the art itself is large, so it's not terribly time-consuming to visit. I like the explanatory material available here. The Tate Modern doesn't currently have a late-closing night, but it has been open late one night a week in the past, with live music (of the sort intended to appeal to younger people, I believe, but I didn't find it objectionable). Check shortly before your trip to see whether the late-closing night has returned. As at the National Gallery, ask about whether the entire facility will be open late.

• The Tate Britain focuses on British art. I believe this is where the Turners and Constables live. (I go to a lot of museums and do not remember what I saw at each one.)

• The Courtauld Gallery in Somerset House reopens later this month after work on the building. The collection extends at least from the medieval period to the post-impressionists. I believe the impressionist works are considered quite good. I haven't been to the Courtauld for quite a few years; I don't think it's a super-large collection.

• I haven't been to the Wallace Collection yet.

• The Leighton House is a much smaller museum, in the home of artist Frederick Leighton. In addition to some of his work, the interior has a lot of Art Nouveau decorative elements, so I really enjoyed it. It doesn't take long to see.

• Not an art museum but possibly of interest to an artist is the Design Museum. It's located very near the Leighton House in South Kensington.

• Also not art in the traditional sense: The Victoria and Albert Museum has arguably the world's best collection of decorative art--glass, ceramics/porcelain, wrought iron and other metal work, jewelry, carpets, furniture, etc. It's a massive collection that really cannot be seen in a single visit. Check out the website to figure what parts of the collection would be of most interest if you decide to go.

There are many more art museums. Wikipedia has what appears to be a comprehensive list of London museums that probably includes all the art museums: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ListofmuseumsinLondon. I recommend taking advantage of the clickable links Wikipedia provides to see which of the other museums displaying art might be of interest. Check for upcoming special exhibitions of interest. I loved the exhibition of 1930s prints I saw at the Dulwich Picture Gallery in 2019.

It’s a pity that the National Portrait Gallery is closed at present. Personally, I would give Tate Modern a wide berth as it’s not my bag.

The National Gallery and the V&A would be high on my list and also The Wallace Collection.

Although Cork Street (near Bond Street) has lost much of its character since the buildings were redeveloped, it’s still the home to many galleries, so it’s nice to window shop. From there, continue straight over Burlington Gardens and into Burlington Arcade - buy her a scarf here. Exit the Arcade, turn left on Piccadilly where you will find the Royal Academy. See if any of the exhibitions suit your tastes at the time of your visit.

The National Gallery is my favourite gallery in the world (and I've seen the Met, the Louvre, and the Uffizi).

A really nice smaller gallery is the Courtauld Institute, where you will find Manet's famous Bar at the Folies-Bergeres.

Tate Britain is great, but JMW Turner is one of my faves, so perhaps less attractive if you're not into him.

Tate Modern was a disappointment for us.

Agree with others that The National Gallery is definitely worth visiting. Major works by the old masters. Located on Trafalgar Square with a lot of other things to do nearby and you can later unwind at Gordon's Wine Bar. The Tate Modern is also definitely worth a visit. It's on the south bank of the Thames and you can stroll along the river afterward. I haven't been to the Tate Britain but will visit it the next time I'm in town. It's not art but The Sherlock Holmes Museum is quick fun stop for those that like the detective stories and there's a shop a few doors down that sells Beatles music memorabilia - and Mrs. Z can see world famous wax art and talk to the Queen and her family at Madame Tussauds just down the block and around the corner.

We invited two friends, both accomplished painters, to join us for a week in an apartment a few years ago. Their choices for art museums or galleries to visit were the Courtauld Institute and the Kenwood House in Hampstead Heath. The latter made for a nice day excursion, with a walk through the park after our exploration of the house and art.

https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/kenwood/

Lola has reminded me that the London Walks guide for Hampstead recommended the Kenwood House. That's another place I haven't yet gotten to, despite spending 33 days in London in the last few years. So many (huge) museums, so little time.

I've seen that the Dulwich Picture Gallery doesn't get much love here.

I'll give it a shout-out. Oy - Dulwich Picture Gallery - over here!!

Good art, very well presented. You can eat there too...

The biggest question I haven't seen addressed here is what type, class or genre of art will Mrs Z be happiest exploring? It is all here, just have to know which rock to look under....

1) The National Gallery. In addition to its permanent collection, their temporary exhibitions are incredibly stupendous! We’re scheduled for London this coming April, and are renewing our annual membership, although entry to the museum itself is free for any event. A Raphael exhibition, with works spanning his magnificent but such a short career, runs from April 9, 2023 thru end of July.

2) Wallace Collection, and the amazing house where it’s situated. We were staying in the Marylebone neighborhood early last year, and did a Marylebone tour with London Walks. It included a visit to the Wallace Collection mansion, and a very insightful assessment of “The Laughing Cavalier” painting, but the subject’s neither laughing nor a Cavalier. We went back another day for a more thorough look at the art, and the interior of the building. Crossing a small nearby street, we were nearly run over by a Rolls Royce SUV, doing maybe 60 MPH before the driver slammed on the brakes!

3) Courtald Gallery, at Sommerset House. Simply stunning, and compact for a visit that’s pretty quick. You can eat there, too, small restaurant and a few tables outside, overlooking the square.

4) Tate Britain. If you went 35 years ago, you remember when there was a small Modern Art collection displayed there. Now that the Modern part has been split off to the Tate Modern, and not my favorite given all the other opportunities, the remaining collection makes for a must-see. Last time, we’d just arrived, and a free Turner tour was being organized for a couple minutes later - needless to say, we joined in.

5) While it’s not precisely an art museum, the Banqueting House should be on your agenda. The only remaining building from the massive Whitehall Palace, the rest of which burned down centuries ago, and the first Neoclassical building in London, the big room on the main floor features a ceiling covered with paintings by Reubens. It was truly unexpected and mesmerizing - it’s like a secular Sistine Chapel, in London. Part palace, part art masterpiece. See the basement and short film there, too. As it’s not room after room of displays, this can also be a shorter visit, as opposed to an all-day museum.

6) See what else is on exhibit at Somerset House. as well as at the Royal Academy of Arts. For the latter, there was an insightful Picasso exhibit last year, just before the Pandemic.

The Banqueting House is currently closed until further notice but watch their space for updates.

The National Gallery has two Vermeer paintings, and The Kenwood House has one. Plus, one Vermeer in the Queen's private collection is on display through January. I'm heading for London for just that reason mid-January.

For mind-boggling character – or quirkiness, depending on your taste – Sir John Soane's Museum is an overstuffed treasure trove. Soane, architect of the Bank of England, was also a professor of art. When 19th-century warfare cut off the Grand Tour of Continental Europe, he turned his mansion into a warehouse of art for his students. Some of it is original, some of it plaster reproductions, all of it enthusiastic. So are the volunteer guides, who will open up cupboards protecting a big collection of satiric paintings/cartoons by Hogarth including The Rake's Progress series.
https://www.soane.org/about/our-history

The National Gallery is good but it’s way too big. I rushed through and it took four hours. I was exhausted the remainder of the day. You have to visit museums first thing in the morning when you’re fully rested because there is lots to absorb. It went on and on and on and on. If you go, make it a full day so you don’t have to rush through.
The British Museum was fantastic and the number one must see in my opinion. It’s one of the world’s greatest. The biggest disappointment was the Tate Modern. First of all where was the art? I walked all over inside this large building and saw a small Dali painting and didn’t like it. My sister and her family had the same experience. I know that art travels and perhaps it was on a road trip.
I haven’t been to the Victoria and Albert Museum yet but it is on my bucket list. That’s the museum I suggest visiting instead of the National Gallery.

What follows is lengthy.
I want to thank those who took the time to respond above. Of your various suggestions, I've only ever been to MaryPat's suggested V&A (oh that Milton tile staircase) plus the British Museum. My personal all-time art fave was actually Vasarely at that muse in Aix, as much for the accompanying PA music (Gorecki's third) as the oversized art!
​​​​​​​As a teen, I had a modest business selling my own abstract soapstone sculptures, and my mom was a professional artist. But really nowadays, Mrs Z is the more passionate art enthusiast between us. Except for street art. I have recently been enjoying taking fotos of the best street art when we're abroad and have deliberately rented us lodgings in Brick Lane for this spring to that end.

Nigel, thank you for Dulwich and also asking for clarification: my wife's tastes run to the French Impressionists and some of the Brit masters.

Jimmy Page recently visited Leighton House and publicly recommended it! Lola, we are already planning to walk Hampstead Heath and thanks to your input will add Kenwood House---we'd had no idea it included paintings. Acraven, Darrenblois, Cyn, Marco and PharmerPhil---a sincere merci to you all too!

I posted the same question over on the Fodors forum, so it was interesting to compare the answers. KBK, I always try to arrange itineraries in 'clusters' of things nearby each other, so yes, Gordon's wine bar was already in our plans. Southam, Soane's museum was the very first thing that we added to our London itinerary, but unfortunately the timing won't allow us to experience one of its candle-lit nights (btw, did I already tell you that my roots are nearby you in Leamington?).

Jennifer, an irony has happened regarding our London plans. Completely unrelated to this trip, I've been amusing myself by listening to a wide variety of some newer jazz guitarist's CDs, and the most appealing turned out to be American Nels Cline. So guess who by complete fluke is going to be performing in your town while we'll be in London--Nels Cline! Its the sole British date of his entire world tour. Given my hearing issues, I haven't attended a concert in many years, but for him I may just buy some earplugs and damn the torpedoes! (Tunbridge means a train from London Bridge, yeah?)
Merci tous.
I am done. the canvas

PS you all may find the recent movie with Willem Defoe depicting Van Gogh to be of interest.

my roots are nearby you in Leamington?

I had many happy years based at Leamington working trains over to Stratford and up and down to Birmingham, Stourbridge, Worcester, and Hereford and all points between.... fwiw

Sounds like an excellent career working the rails Nigel! And sincere thanks again for your consistently useful input for all of us trying to learn more about trip preparation for old Blighty. The 'Leamington' I refer to near poster Southam, is actually the Canadian farm town famed for being the tomato capital of Canada, near Windsor Ontario in the southernmost part of our country.

I hope that the extra questions that I plan to post on this forum about London and also Chipping Campden, will continue to get some answers from you and others here.

I am done. the quirky Canuck

Bowie's 'Art Decade', with re-imagined visuals.
I am done. the fanvid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQxjVPmcdyQ

The 'Leamington' I refer to near poster Southam, is actually the Canadian farm town famed for being the tomato capital of Canada, near Windsor Ontario in the southernmost part of our country.

well you know where the names came from now, eh? The full name is Royal Leamington Spa.

You may be surprised to learn that Warwick is the next town over, the two towns run into each other (for our warwick contributor) and for our Southam contributor, Southam is only less than 6 miles from Leamington.

All three towns are in the beautiful county of Warwickshire, "Shakespeare Country".

Getting off the track here, but.... "farm town" rather underrates the Leamington area. Farming is an industrial process now and the money is big. Leamington is covered with so many greenhouses -- "glass houses" in the UK, I think -- that it could be a giant fun-park maze. The western shore of Lake Erie, formally Essex County (you can have fun with the derivation of "Essex" too) is booming. Wineries, craft breweries and bistros help draw wealthy migrants from the expenses of Toronto living. Canada's mildest winters add to the appeal. And I swear I do not work for the county tourist board.

I agree with Mary Pat - I was disappointed with the Tate Modern.

If you or your wife like the Frick in NYC, Galleria Doria Pamphilj in Rome, the smaller museums of Florence, you should really enjoy the Wallace Collection. I much preferred the Wallace Collection to the bigger and more famous "must see" museums.

One of my favorite London memories is the light lunch and glass of wine that I had in the Courtyard.

https://www.wallacecollection.org/visit/

Here's an interesting link about Sir Richard Wallace and water fountains he donated to Paris.

https://wallacefountains.org/about-sir-wallace-and-his-fountains/

This thread got me to thinking---here's a concept for an imaginative new movie script:
Tourist couple visits London and experiences a real-life flashback time machine drama with a painting from each of the Museums/galleries that they visit.
*Alt. version: the various classic rock history sites throughout: Zep's first rehearsal in Chinatown, Hendrix's death, Abbey Road, the original Marquee et al.

I am done. the dreamer

I'll just add one more that I'm not sure anyone mentioned. The Queen's Gallery is small and alongside Buckingham Palace. It's only worth going if there is an exhibition on that is of interest to you. Currently they are showing Masterpieces From Buckingham Palace but that ends in February. Not sure what the next exhibition will be so you might check to see if it's of interest.

https://www.rct.uk/visit/the-queens-gallery-buckingham-palace

(editing to add: I see PharmerPhil mentioned the Vermeer being shown in this Gallery but I was scanning for the name, lol. Phil...I'm jealous of your trip and would love to see this Vermeer, the Rembrandts and the Canaletto's!)

Has anyone mentioned the Royal Academy? I often find fabulous exhibits there.

Kim, I’d mentioned it above. After seeing the Picasso exhibition, we were already on Piccadilly, and Fortnum & Mason were just across the street, for Afternoon Tea. A day of art, and artful snacks.

The “art” you’ll find along the Thames Line walk might be of interest and certainly a way to see a part of London not often visited by tourists. I enjoyed my time spent following it. Started by the O2.

On the return took a train from Charlton Station to Waterloo and then a District Line tube back to Richmond Station. All on my Oyster Card. Pleasant meander.

https://the-line.org/

If you enjoy pubs, the Anchor and Hope on Riverside is pleasant. Lovely snug to sit in while enjoying lunch.

EDIT: adding Sacchi Gallery, Wallace Collection,and the Guildhall Art Gallery.

The National Gallery is right up your wife’s alley. I suggest spending two hours there each morning while in London. This means you’ll need to keep track of each room you’ve visited.

The Queens House in Greenwich has not been mentioned and it is free. I was there in November and it is very good for both the art and the building itself. There is a audio guide through Art Smartifly that is really good (need a smart phone). One of the extras at the moment is 3 copies of the painting of Elizabeth 1 for the Spanish Armada.

A BIG Xmas merci to all who responded here. We appreciate it. As for the trip actually occurring, those of us who are Blighty-bound can only cross our fingers.
I am done. The end.

The mentions so far of Kenwood House by Hampstead and the Queen's House in Greenwich are underselling their appeal -- esp. when you include the Royal Naval College and maritime museum and the surrounding grounds and campus (just look like you belong there and you won't get kicked out of the private yards so quickly) Hopefully the quality of the snacks at the concessions has been modernized, but stick some energy bars in your pockets in any case.

Definitely look into the museum website in advance and even the day of. With Covid some museums have revised hours, required timed admission tickets or introduced other restrictions. It's a moving target in any city. Also the websites will have special exhibits and schedules for docent led tours. And since many of the museums are free you don't have to feel bad to pop into one just for brief time.

Maybe worth getting the National Art pass. You'd get50% off the special exhibition. You'll also be supporting the national art fund.

Free entry to some, like Courtwald Gallery.

https://www.artfund.org/national-art-pass

You do have to book the special exhibition tickets early on. Alice in the wonderland exhibition in victoria and albert sold off early on.