London 4 Day Itinerary - logistics, timing, thoughts!

I took an overnight train from Edinburgh to London so I wouldn’t have to waste a day traveling. I slept in a sleeper car that I had to myself.
None of the original buildings exist from the Jack the Ripper days so why bother. Rick Steves listed it in his guidebook as a waste of time along with the Buckingham Palace changing of the guard ceremony. I did the latter once and agree with Rick. The HOHO bus tour will take a full day because of the traffic. It’s still worth taking though.
This link will tell you the best train station for arrival at the Premier Inn Waterloo in Westminster: https://www.premierinn.com/gb/en/hotels/england/greater-london/london/london-waterloo-westminster-bridge.html?cid=GLBC_LONWAT.
Take a look at what plays interest you before going. I worked with a woman who saw Judy Dench and Maggie Smith on stage together and said that their performance was so outstanding that there was no distraction from the audience; everyone was glued to the stage. These were not tickets that she bought at the TKTS booth. I too saw Aiden Turner the last time I was in London and truly enjoyed the show. I would have hated learning later that I was there when he was performing live as I did when Kevin Spacey gave an outstanding performance in the Moon for the Misbegotten.

You don’t have to worry about which train station is best for Edinburgh to London - the train goes to Kings Cross only. You could take a taxi from there to your hotel, or you could change there onto the Piccadilly Line underground, go to Leicester Square stop and change to the Northern Line to Waterloo stop. Or you could go to Westminster underground station and walk across Westminster Bridge to get to your hotel. I’d do it by taxi so that I didn’t t have the hassle of luggage while changing trains etc.
And yes, as the poster above says, you can be stuck in traffic for hours on buses near Westminster. It’s still fun to sit and watch everything but it can be much quicker to walk. Also, a number 11 or 15 bus is much cheaper than the HOHO bus and they go to many of the same places. Have a look a the Transport for London website, there are maps of the tube and bus routes and you can work out what suits you.

Day 1 - As others have said, ride regular buses and sit upstairs rather than using the HOHO buses. As you will have been sat on a train for hours, you may not want to then sit on a bus for hours. Regular buses can use the bus lanes and move quicker than HOHOs. It’s your trip, not mine - I think there are better walks than the Jack the Ripper walk, but it’s not my trip and something must have attracted you to this walk.

Day 2 - I wouldn’t bother with the changing of the guard. Most theatres close on Sunday night, but some also close Monday, so check what you want to see beforehand. Your activities are a bit light.

Day 3 - a very full day. The Tower will occupy you until early afternoon. If you are taking the verger tour at St Paul’s, you won’t have much time for the British Museum. Research the British Museum before you go and decide which sections you are going to see, as you could spend the whole day there.

Day 4 - I am not a Shakespeare fan, so I would not bother with The Globe, but it’s not my trip. If you want shopping, Liberty and Selfridges are better shopping experiences than Harrods IMO.

Get theatre tickets at the booth in Leicester Square on the day, in case Covid cancels performances. Be there at noon.

For me, an active young person who travels a lot, these days would be too long. I don’t like to have more than two major indoor sights (like museums, churches, etc) planned in a day, and I also don’t like going to two museums/historic sights back-to-back without a break in the middle for lunch or a walk or shopping. Here is what I would do.

Day 1: you don’t say what time your train arrives but I will assume it’s sometime around midday/early afternoon given what you had planned. I would not expect to be tired from the train journey, it’s very straightforward and you’re sitting down the whole time, so I think you’ll arrive with energy. It’s a half hour walk up through lovely Covent Garden to the British Museum where you can spend a couple hours seeing the highlights. When the museum closes at 5, go for a late afternoon tea that will serve as your dinner.

Day 2: explore Kensington, taking time to stop did a coffee and pop into some shops as well as check out some of the little mews streets (the A Lady In London blog has a great self guided walking tour you could follow); V&A with lunch in the gorgeous cafe; once finished you can easily walk up to Harvey Nichols, though if your objective is to see a lavish department store, I’d go to Harrods, it’s touristy but has cooler interiors than Harvey Nichols IMO (ETA that I agree with Jennifer, Liberty or Selfridges if you plan to actually shop, and Liberty is probably the best of both worlds with historic interiors and good shopping, but they are a bit out of the way for this particular day as currently organised); you can round out the day with a short walk in Hyde Park before taking the tube to early dinner before theatre night. FYI I just buy tickets online to the shows I want to see. I usually just buy direct to get the best seats but there are discount sites like Today Tix as well.

Day 3: Do the Rick Steves walk that goes up Fleet Street (perhaps called the City walk?) to get to St Paul’s; tour St Paul’s; cross Millenium Bridge and walk east on the South Bank, waving hello to the Globe, to get to Borough Market for lunch; carry on East to Tower Bridge, walk over and tour Tower of London (though I’m not sure what the best crowd beating strategy is for the Tower; you could also do this day in reverse if the advice is to go to the Tower in the morning, just bear in mind you’d need to be doing the walk down Fleet Street backwards from how it’s written if memory serves).

Day 4: Westminster Abbey in the morning; take a break for a walk around St James park, a sandwich at a park kiosk for lunch perhaps, and wave hello to Buckingham Palace; then get to the War Rooms for an afternoon timed ticket.

A few other tips:
- the National Theatre is very near to where you’re staying and their shows are incredible
- I prefer to see cities on foot as opposed to bus and don’t fancy the idea of sitting in traffic so I have not built in a time for the HOHO bus
- I’m not familiar with any specific Jack the Ripper walks and it may be you have a specific interest in this history, but if you’ve just included it because Jack the Ripper is for some bizarre reason constantly marketed to tourists, do not bother with it. I really don’t understand the fascination with a murderer who targeted vulnerable women…there are plenty of lovely walks you can do in London not focused on such grisly history, and I’ve recommended several in my plan above.

I haven't been to London in many years, but I echo the traffic concerns about doing the HOHO tour on a Monday. I am going on a night bus tour of London via Golden tours (there are two companies that offer these) on my upcoming visit. This might be a fun alternative to your Jack the Ripper tour on Sunday night if you are reconsidering it. Rest your feet, see the sights, less traffic (but obviously a very different experience from the HOHO style tours) - 1.5 hours total. But I wouldn't do both a night tour and a HOHO tour, personally.

On Monday, maybe consider adding in Harrod's Food Hall (and a visit to Harrod's in general of course!) as it is a 10 minute walk from the V&A. A picnic lunch in Hyde Park (weather permitting) would be really nice before the museum.

Hi,

Have to say, i agree with all the advice given by Jennifer above. Ditch HOHO and changing of the guard - way too much time for too little reward. Liberty's store is near Oxford Circus tube, much more interesting than Harrods and not so out of the way. It would be easy to get there from your Premier Inn location using regular buses - I have the Citymapper app (free) on my phone which is terrific for getting around London.

One thing I would add would be to look at London Walks - www.walks.com - they used to have a 2 hour tour of the British Museum, which was great for getting you round the highlights. The pandemic has meant London Walks have had to change their operations around a bit, but they are probably getting back to a more normal system now.

Katy

Wow, such wonderful advice and I really appreciate the time and energy you all have given to my ever evolving plan for London. Tell you the truth, shopping isn’t my bag usually but I heard that London is great for finding special gifts. I’m more interested in the ambiance of historic buildings, architecture and I love to treat myself with a luxury now and then. So, maybe Harrod’s is a better idea.

MaryPat & Katy: I thought fleetingly about the overnight train but know I would not sleep; VERY light sleeper. Didn’t know about the buildings being different for the Jack the Ripper walk. I will admit was suckered into that walk. It was one of the London Walks listed but maybe the British Museum will serve my purposes better.

Margaret: yes, my anticipated train from Edinburgh will arrive in early afternoon. I have looked at ScotRail web for times/fares. It is too early to book though. Is it 12 weeks before my intended departure to start looking? I don’t remember the timeline. Also, I just might move the BM from Day 3 to Day 1 instead of doing the HOHO bus and JTR walk. I do have the RS England book and the RS London Pocket guide and will definitely check out that walk you suggested.

Amanda: good tip for the city busses #11 or #15 instead of HOHO because they use bus lanes and are faster than HOHO. Also, I didn’t realize that about the Edinburgh-London train only going to Kings Cross. I will taxi to my hotel

BCastle: thanks for the tip about getting picnic items from Harrods to enjoy around the V&A museum time.

Jennifer & MaryPat: think I will wait till I arrive in London to get theatre tix and check out that ticket booth at Leichester Square. Have looked online for what is on during my trip and I’m interested in: Come from Away, Mama Mia and Wicked but I will continue to research the offerings. Would LOVE to see Judy Dench or Maggie Smith in something that isn’t a musical. 😝

Jennifer: you have so many good tips. I have already researched the British Museum website because I know it will take a massive amount of time, if I let myself go. I know my limits and will focus on the Sutton Hoo exhibit, or possibly take a London Walks led tour.

Funny story about the map from the RS pocket guidebook. I live in a tiny house with a built in bed that is right up against the wall and it also lifts up from the floor. Well, one day as I was making the bed, I heard something go plunk. My pocket London map slipped into the tiny crack between the bed and the wall and I can’t get to it. Argh! I love RS maps - they are so easy to read and navigate from.

Anyway, thank you all once again for the tips and tricks about London. I have some shifting to do.

Scotrail does not offer service between Edinburgh and London. It is serviced by LNER and a new company, Lumo. I've done the route many times with LNER but have never traveled with Lumo. You can buy train tickets from any company but prefr to buy them directly from the company operating the train.

I agree with the others that there are better walks to take than Jack the Ripper. Find ones that peak your interest.

If you don't like shopping, why go to Harvey Nichols? At least Harrods is a grand, beautiful old store and the food halls are amazing. As it is a few minutes walk from the V & A, I would put it on that day. I would move a visit to St. James Park to the day you are visiting Westminster, and move Harrods to the day you go to the V & A.

Kings Cross is nowhere near the Waterloo Premiere Inn. The train station IS Waterloo.

Kings Cross/St Pancras station is by the British
Library.

Forget the Ho Ho Bus. You are staying across the Thames from Parliament Square.

Settle into your hotel, then walk out and follow the Thames Path and walk across Westminster Bridge, heading towards Parliament.

Have you cell phone or camera at the ready.

After meandering about Parliament Square follow Birdcage Walk up to the Palace. Cross the road at the Queen Victoria Memorial, walk through Green Park. From Green Park Station you can walk to Liberty which IMHO IS far more interesting than Harrods ( although Harrods food halls are good for gifts). You’ll also walk by Fortum and Mason. Take a peak.

If you wish to tour The Globe do so.

Research the Whats On Stage website to see what theatre productions will be occurring during you travel dates. I’m heading over in July and have been trying for months to get tickets to Jerusalem with Mark Rylance…persistent and patience paid off.

Got them as more tickets were released.

INSTEAD of the over rated Changing of the Guard watch Horse Guard riders mount their horses at the Horse Guards Parade before they leave to head up to the Palace for the ceremony. You can also walk into St James Park via Birdcage walk and watch the Guardsmen return to the Wellington Barracks after their participation in the Changing of The Guards.

Get an Oyster Card at a machine or kiosk in Waterloo station. I carry mine in a fun card holder I got at the British Library. Makes it easier to grab then having to look in your wallet each time you need it.
museum gift shop carry these holders.

Check the Abbey’s opening hours and consider attending Evensong there or at St Brides.

Opened in 2019 is Mercato Mayfair. Food hall in an old church. Found it following my tour of the Wallace Collection.

Lastly, the month before you depart check The Londonist and Lady in London websites.

Be going to London for decades. Lots to see but pace yourself.

Enjoy.

Good to hear you're planning a taxi from King's Cross to Waterloo hotel, they are *not nearby each other, and Sundays are rough days to find transportation across the Thames, the last time that I went. The Treasure Room in the British Library is right near King's Cross, you may want to do that first, if they're open on Sunday and at the time you'd be arriving. Double check everything you have planned on Sunday, I found not much was open. Calling that day 1 is kind of generous. Won't be a whole, useful day. You'll have great night views staying by the river, tho. :)

I bring a celestron monocular (one half of a binoculars) when I travel to London, not only for sightseeing, but being able to read details, tops of huge artworks, and departure boards in train stations so I'm not running to see what I'm missing. $15 on amazon, nifty for a traveling astronomer like myself.

HoHo buses saved my last trip when there was a protest rally shutting down regular transportation. Their staff worked to help all other companies' ticket holders, friendly. When I lived in London for 2 months, I used the city buses often, and this was nicer to have specific sights as the stops, instead of having to count/track all stops. I have pain/limitations, so sitting downstairs, avoiding crowds, getting some quiet and having no concern about pickpockets were positives for me. Everyone else will probably say bad things about them, but they can be useful (and lower stress) to some of us.

Victoria & Albert Museum could probably take days :) in a good way. Their jewelry room was dazzling, glad I saw it *after I saw the crown jewels, or I might have been disappointed in them, after seeing the V&A. Harrod's was a thing, just didn't care for the materialistic energy of the people there, and I must not have had the best map of the store, couldn't find much of what I wanted to see. Others must have better luck than I did.

Westminster Abbey, & Churchill War Rooms are nearby each other, but Borough Market is NOT nearby. Use Google Maps often to check distances, and plan all in one area at a time. Parliament is opening back up again for tours, that would be right next door to Westminster Abbey, could be good. Also Trafalgar Square and its galleries are close, too, also they're about a 6 block walk from some of the theatres, so it might be something to take a peek in on. Free is good. I found some family history people in that National Gallery, it was a very different experience because of that.

As you're hopping from one side of the Thames to the other a lot of this time, you may want to look into the boats that work off of Oyster cards, if weather allows. If it were my trip, 15 days in Scotland would be too many, with only 3 1/2 days in London. On that 5th day are you going to Heathrow early, by big taxi or train ride? I would move at least several days from Scotland to London, if you really want to see most of the things on this list. The way first -timers drastically underestimate London is unfortunately consistent. I also prefer to stay the last night in Windsor, see the castle, and only have a quick hop over to Heathrow that next day, like 15-20 minutes to get near the airport (tho it is its own city in itself, of course).

Keep researching, mapping, and don't underestimate London :) I'm a NYer and could see the sights in a day or two, but London's still a challenge after living there for 2 months... I think I need about 6 months there some day. :)

Have fun, there are good YouTube channels that show the walks and sights too, lots of resources and virtual tours are also online now.
Happy travels!
-Alison

Frank, I had the LNER website saved in my Bookmarks but somehow was searching on ScotRail before writing this post. Thank you for clearing up that ScotRail appears to be a third party. I will book direct with LNER. When should I buy tickets? How far out do I wait?

Claudia, I appreciate your suggestion to watch the Horse Guard riders do their thing. Never thought of that and to me, would be more interesting to see. And I also am grateful for the What’s On Stage suggestion to research plays/live theatre.

I will revamp the itinerary. Thanks again.

Aly, oh - a monocular is a good idea so I will look for one. I have binoculars for birding but probably won’t bring them due to weight. Scotland is my main focus for this trip. I intend to return to London another time. I’ve been to Paris twice and still desire to go back - probably will. I do understand your feelings about the HOHO bus being less stressful. I have not ruled it out quite yet. Really looking forward to the V&A museum.

I don't particularly worry when people plan short trips to London, because it's very easy to return to London. Needing to return to rural Scotland because you thought you'd be satisfied to see the Highlands on a day trip from Edinburgh is a much bigger deal.

I have taken the London Walks Jack the Ripper tour. I liked it--but then again, all their walks have been very good. Their guides are licensed, so you have a reasonable expectation of getting accurate information rather than something invented by a guide. I liked that the walk was at night, a time when I have usually collapsed in my hotel room, and that it took me to a part of the city I might not otherwise have seen. The guide discussed some of the current thinking about the Ripper crimes.

I've also taken the London Walks tour of the British Museum. I think they may have more than one guide doing that tour, and the contents of the tour may vary. Our guide took us through part of the (unbelievably crowded, as per usual) Egyptian exhibits. We also went upstairs (much less crowded) to see the Sutton Hoo treasure.

Honestly, I think there's more value to the neighborhood walks offered by London Walks. You don't need a guide to find the British Museum, and you can use a guidebook or an audioguide to supplement the posted information if you like. This isn't to say the London Walks tour isn't worthwhile; it's just that if you only plan to take one of its walking tours, I'd suggest choosing one focused on a neighborhood that sounds interesting to you.

For your trip to the theatre: It's very risky to depend on half-price tickets to see particular plays. London theatres seem smaller than Broadway theatres on average. While plays don't necessarily sell out weeks or months in advance (though Hamilton did), the most popular ones may sell out a few days in advance, in which case there will be no half-price tickets on offer. Since you've already found some plays you're especially interested in, I'd recommend monitoring ticket availability every 2 or 3 days between now and your departure date. Don't look for tickets for days when you'll be in London; look at what's available for the very day you're checking and for the next two days or so. That will give you a much better idea of whether the plays you'd most like to see are likely to be available when you arrive in London.

On the topic of London theatre, I must say that I do not recommend "The Mousetrap". I know plenty of people like it; that play has been running forever. To me, it was like a well-acted senior-class play you might catch at your local high school. There are many far better options, though you may not get tickets to them for half price.

Aly, my Icelandair flight back to the US is out of Gatwick leaving in the early afternoon. Might be able to do something low key, if I pack up the night before. Might be a challenge getting up early if I go to a play/musical the night before though. Hoping the weather will be nice enough in September. Imagine the weather in London is similar to Seattle.

Has anyone of you taken the Beefeater tour of the Tower of London? Thoughts?

I'm a member there and always, or nearly always, join a Beefeater tour when I visit. Each of men and women (all genuine Beefeaters who reside at the Tower, all of a sufficient rank and having served sufficient years for the Crown) have their own personality and deliver the tour with their own flair, yet cover the same material. The tour covers much of the main outdoor areas but not the Crown Jewels or the White Tower which you do on your own.

The tour doesn't take too long, just about right in my experience, and is both very informative and lots of fun for both kiddoes and adults. I've never found that the groups (which self select) were too big. Once my wife and I were the only ones in the group - but that was right after Lockdown.

If the Crown Jewels are important to you or your time is tight I suggest getting to the Tower early in the day and go straight to the Crown Jewels and then join a Beefeater tour back down by the entrance a little later.

Nigel, thanks for piping in about The Beefeaters. Your endorsement makes a huge difference to me. I had the Tower of London toward the end of my day but have switched it up to go first thing in the morning for the Crown Jewels and White Tower.

Acraven: yes, short trip to London this time works better for me. I am covering a LOT in Scotland. Still on the fence about a HOHO bus and the London Walks JTR tour. I appreciate your view on that tour. The Walks tour of BM is not going right now (it may change though). due to Covid restrictions, they only allow groups of no more than 7 people. This info directly from Walks by their email response to me. They offered a private tour, but I won’t do that. Anyway, I will upload RS audio tour of BM and do part of it. I will head to the Sutton Hoo exhibition first.

Good idea to monitor availability of theatre tix every 2-3 days. Thinking about seeing The Tempest at The Globe or any number of musicals listed earlier. Come From Away is top on my list as I have already seen Wicked in Seattle and Mama Mia as a movie. Decisions decisions!

I had hoped to see Come From Away in August 2019. I believe there were some tickets available when I first got to town (after doing Scotland for 26 days and a bit of northern England). I didn't buy a ticket right away (they were expensive at full price), and by the time I got around to doing so, nothing was available. Tickets to well-reviewed musicals tend to go fast, so I'm not optimistic you'll get a bargain there, but perhaps you will be fortunate.

Alright, here is my updated itinerary. Any ideas for my last morning in London near the hotel? Premier Inn Waterloo

Day 1: arrive London by train from Edinburgh around 1:00-1:30; BM RS Guide but head straight to Sutton Hoo; Claudia’s walk or HOHO or Bus #11 or #15, Graffiti Tunnel, dinner near hotel

Day 2: Palace horse Guards 💂‍♀️ St. James Park Pelicans; V&A Museum with lunch; Harrods shopping and pick up picnic dinner items; theatre night

Day 3: Tower of London; RS City Walk in reverse; lunch at Borough Market; St. Paul’s Cathedral - maybe evensong at 5

Day 4: Westminster Abbey, Churchill War Rooms, COVID test (if still required); Globe Theater Tempest or JTR London Walks

Day 5: something low key near hotel then head to Gatwick. Flight around 1 pm

Any new comments? Ideas for last morning. Thanks again.

Explore Spitalfields Market OR have breakfast at Orange Pekoe in Barnes….

You had me worried on your revised first day. I didn't get your shorthand and Sutton Hoo is hours away near the coast in Suffolk. Worked it out.

As far as your last day, how are you expecting to get to Gatwick?

If I were at Waterloo I might take a train which stops at Clapham Junction and change to a Southern train to Gatwick (final destination Three Bridges or Brighton). But that means up and over in a very busy interchange station. Or tube to Victoria, but that means a change of tube lines. Or walk over the bridge and get a tube for Victoria from Westminster.

Any which way, although the train to Gatwick only takes 35 minutes you'd better allow a good hour from your hotel.

So if you fly at 1, check in (to home?) will be 3 hours earlier, by 10. An hour to get there, leave at 9, still at the end of the rush hour.

I don't think you have time for much more than breakfast and getting checked out.

Nigel, I have been looking at the last travel day for the past hour or so and realize that yes, I do not have time for much more than breakfast. Looks like I will walk across the bridge, get a Tube to Victoria and a train from Victoria to Gatwick. Looking at TrainLine for schedule and fares (Victoria to Gatwick). Is TrainLine site the one I need to purchase tickets? Or is this yet another third party site. I know your “the train man.” lol

On Day 3, I’m pretty sure that RS walk goes between St Paul’s (or near there) and Westminster, so you’d want to put that at the end of the day after St Paul’s. I could be remembering incorrectly though.

If you use the Southern Railway website https://www.southernrailway.com/ instead of the middleman you found, you will get up to the minute delay or other issue information right at the top of the page. Southern and their holding company GTR run all the Southern trains and all the Gatwick Express ones too. Southern are commuter trains but the ones to Gatwick only make one stop on the way and are only 5 minutes slower than the Gatwick Express and much cheaper. On the other hand you might prefer a train dedicated to the airport, with its multilingual announcements and loads of luggage room and not mind the premium fare.

To get to Victoria, especially if you have luggage, from Waterloo or County Hall you could consider the 211 bus which connects the two without any changes. You get a last view over the bridge too. Everything you need to know is at:

https://tfl.gov.uk/bus/route/211/?Input=211+towards+Hammersmith&direction=inbound

Thanks once again Nigel. I really appreciate the advice and your handy links

Just noting the the HOHO bus ticket includes a boat ride from the Tower of London to Westminster Pier (or at least it used to), so it might make sense to do the bus and Tower of London on the same day.

By the way, the Gatwick Express service had been mothballed due to Covid (and the dire financial position that Southern and its holding company GTR have found themselves in, having had to suspend trading on the stock exchange for 2 months) and I haven't checked to see if they are running again yet...

Skip the HoHoBus as my experience was sitting in traffic. Take tube to locations or a bus.

Nigel, I noticed that the Gatwick Express was not running but will keep my eye out closer to my trip. Although, just taking a regular Southern train from Victoria Station is good too.

Nigel posted today ( Saturday, March 19) that as of April the Gatwick Express is back.

Claudia, thanks for noticing that. The Gatwick Express will be somewhat faster.

between 4 and 6 minutes faster...