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Lincoln or Stamford?

We are looking for a nice place to breakup a train journey between Paris and Penrith next May. We do not wish to stay overnight in London after arriving there on the Eurostar. Instead we want to continue north, preferably from St. Pancras or Kings Cross station, to a small town with easy train access, a nice small hotel, hopefully some historic character, and a nice place to walk. I have come up with Lincoln (Bill Bryson likes it) and Stamford. I know Lincoln offers a beautiful cathedral and a Norman castle, but in the time we have there (late afternoon and next morning until 11) we will not have time to tour the castle or do the roof or tower tour at the cathedral---we can only visit the interior floor area. Stamford seems to offer a well-preserved town and nice walking, so I am leaning toward that.

Any advice or comments? Thank you.

Posted by
2600 posts

Are you aware that trains from London to Penrith leave from Euston and go nowhere near Stamford or Lincoln? So you're making quite a detour, but if you have the time (and are buying separate tickets or using a rail pass) my choice would be Stamford. A small town, think of the Cotswolds - lots of pretty buildings.

But if you don't have the time and need to stick to the London to Penrith route then look at Chester.

Posted by
17562 posts

Thank you for yoir comments. Yes, I have looked at rail maps and schedules and I am aware that the trains from London to Penrith depart from Euston. So we would have to transfer from St. Pancras to Euston to take that train. And most involve a change at Crewe, so that is at least two changes. We would particularly like to avoid the St. Pancras to Euston transfer, whether by Tube or taxi. We will have a Two Together railpass.

We have the time to spread the journey over two days and do not mind a bit of a detour if it gets us someplace enjoyable where we have not yet been. From either Lincoln or Stamford we can continue on to Penrith the following day with two changes. We do not mind train changes, so long as they do not leave us sitting on the platform at Crewe for an hour (done that). As we see it, a change or two is a good way to get a bit of exercise during a train journey.

I am happy to see you have endorsed Stamford, confirming my thoughts.

Posted by
33996 posts

Two quite different towns in the same county.

Lincoln has mixed architecture, some old, especially around the beautiful cathedral, but unfortunately quite a bit of modern and Victorian. There is a quite steep street, complete with handrails, and most properties on the hill are a couple of hundred or so years old.

Stamford has so many things going for it. The first, of course, and most important, is it is only just over 2 dozen miles from me. You can't beat that. ;->

But seriously - it is really beautiful. The whole town is of the same grey stone, a little thatch but mostly the roofs are local Collyweston stone from only half a dozen miles away. Buildings are from the last 500 years through newish but all very similar and sympathetic.

Lanes are narrow, the town is on the riverside, with water meadows, a fabulous old bookstore and book restorer on the way down to the river, lots of churches - I've never seen a town with so many - and plenty of restaurants. You won't have time to get there but there is a stupendous, probably the best, Elizabethan manor house just over the river and not far from the station. It is Burghley House, http://www.burghley.co.uk/ and it is really truly magnificent. Click through and look at some of those photos. Burghley also hosts one of the most famous 5 star 3-day eventing tests. If you know horses, you know Burghley.

There are old hotels which simply exude character.

The town and the water meadows give good walking opportunities.

I don't know if it is obvious - I love Stamford.

Posted by
17562 posts

OK, that settles it! Stamford it is. Thank you, Nigel.

Posted by
888 posts

Lola, I've been to Lincoln, but not Stamford (but Stamford sounds very nice so I will need to add it to my list for next time). We really enjoyed our 2 nights in Lincoln. We loved the cathedral (we had time for the roof tour). It doesn't take long to see the Magna Carta in the castle (make sure it's there if you want to see it because they rotate which documents they show). I think the road Nigel describes is Steep Street. The old section is very pleasant. There are tourists but it is a quiet tourist town, if that makes any sense.

Posted by
6113 posts

Lola

St Pancras to Euston is less than a 10 minute walk along a straight road, so you cant get lost!

Stamford definitely has the edge over Lincoln. Middlemarch was filmed there a few years ago. Chester on the Euston line is also worth a visit.