It doesn't much matter which, with such frequent bus services.

Four lakes have boats- Coniston (both the wonderful Steam boat Gondola, and the Coniston Launch company);Ullswater, Windermere and Derwentwater (Keswick).
Each has special combination bus and boat tickets with Stagecoach- boat trip on the respective lake and unlimited bus rides that day.
Ullswater is reached on the 508 from Windermere or Penrith stations, Coniston on the 505 from Windermere station, or the little known X12 from Ulverston (birthplace of Stan Laurel of Laurel and Hardy).
If you asked me for my favourite I would say Coniston, with an overnight in Coniston Village, to allow you to do both boats, visit Brantwood (home of John Ruskin) and visit the village museum.
Also find out about mining there - including German miners. Plus more surprises for you to find!
Stay in Hawkshead (the neighbouring village instead) if you prefer, then the bus to Coniston.

From Skipton you could also buy a Cumbria Day Ranger train ticket- for a day of scenic railways- Skipton to Carlisle, down the Cumbria Coast to Carnforth (the Brief Encounter movie) then return on the Bentham line to Skipton.
Also from Lancaster (not Skipton) there is the brilliant Lakes Day Ranger train ticket- trains from Lancaster to Windermere, Penrith and Workington via Barrow, all buses and the Windermere steamers.

Stuart, this is brilliant - not just the part I’m quoting, but all of it; so much to take in, and I can’t wait! I imagine it’s pretty busy in May, so I may need to take what I can get….

I’m not that familiar with Ruskin, but I’m always interested in learning new things…

I did a quick Google about Germsm miners …fascinating!

I’m going to do a deep dive - should be fun!

Ooh - I love trains, so I’ll look into those as well

Thank you!!!

If you asked me for my favourite I would say Coniston, with an
overnight in Coniston Village, to allow you to do both boats, visit
Brantwood (home of John Ruskin) and visit the village museum. Also
find out about mining there - including German miners. Plus more
surprises for you to find! Stay in Hawkshead (the neighbouring village
instead) if you prefer, then the bus to Coniston. From Skipton you
could also buy a Cumbria Day Ranger train ticket- for a day of scenic
railways- Skipton to Carlisle, down the Cumbria Coast to Carnforth
(the Brief Encounter movie) then return on the Bentham line to
Skipton. Also from Lancaster (not Skipton) there is the brilliant
Lakes Day Ranger train ticket- trains from Lancaster to Windermere,
Penrith and Workington via Barrow, all buses and the Windermere
steamers.

Betsy, One thing to bear in mind is that many places in the Central Lakes have a minimum two night stay. Clearly there is no general point in me staying overnight so close to home. But on the rare occasions when I do need to (usually due to an event at the now closed Royalty, Bowness) I normally have to drop down into Kendal for single night stays. The same problem in Keswick is why I can't do Theatre by the Lake.

Stuart, I’m considering 2 nights as well since one night really means barely one full day total (part of arrival day, part of departure day)

I’m not sure why only staying one night means you can’t go to the theater?

Someone on another board also recommended Conistion. The Gondola steamship looks wonderful, and I love all the lake cruise options, but is there enough to do in the town? And is public transport good to towns like Keswick & Ambleside? Or Hawkshead?

I know a little about Donald Campbell, so getting the chance to see his memorabilia would be fascinating

Still torn as Keswick seems like there’s more to do (and it’s on Derwentwater). Ambleside might be better for a visit …But both have their advocates

Thanks!

Betsy, One thing to bear in mind is that many places in the Central
Lakes have a minimum two night stay. Clearly there is no general point
in me staying overnight so close to home. But on the rare occasions
when I do need to (usually due to an event at the now closed Royalty,
Bowness) I normally have to drop down into Kendal for single night
stays. The same problem in Keswick is why I can't do Theatre by the
Lake.

Betsy,

The bus from Ambleside to Coniston via Hawkshead now runs hourly from 0620, with the last back to Ambleside and Kendal at 2020.
The 2020 bus

Likewise from Keswick the first bus south to Ambleside and beyond is at 7am, then hourly (half hourly at times). The last back from Ambleside to Keswick at 2030.

Coniston has a good few pubs and restaurants, also it is now light until mid evening for walks. I guess it depends on what you are wanting in a town, but Coniston and Hawkshead are both well equipped for tourists.
You could for instance take the last launch of the night to Torver (or even the surprise which is Lake Bank pier) then follow the Lake shore path back to Coniston. In this week's weather that would be a superlative walk.
A nice short walk is out to the Roman Catholic church, then the tracked of the old railway back to the old station high above the town.

As regards the theatre if you lived 30 minutes away by car (I've done it in 20 in a company or rental car when I can drive much more aggressively) or just over an hour by bus, would you stay for a 2 night minimum just to go to theatre? One night (if I could get it) would be a huge splurge, but my last bus home is at 2215 which is too tight for end of theatre. A bit frustrating.

Last thing first- oh you’re right, Stuart - I would not spend money for 2 nights just to go to the theater, unless I was going to take a mini-vacation anyway

I booked this place in Keswick because I decided that I want to be close to Derwentwater and Castlerigg stone circle, plus there’s a market.

https://fellpack.co.uk/fellpack-house/

But I definitely want to go to Coniston!

Thank you!!

It's nice and quiet on the Heads. You can walk to their spa at the Underscar in about 45 minutes, or buses 554 and X4 drop you off at Applethwaite Road End.
The way I would personally walk out to Underscar is the start of the Allerdale Ramble past Crosthwaite Church, but there are other routes.

The market is a very good one. Do also have a look into the Museum.

The 78 Borrowdale bus also now runs to 8pm, opening up some evening lake walks on Derwentwater.

The Movie Theatre (the Alhambra) is a rare example of a family owned independent. Tom's daughter (the man who saved the place) and her partner take great pride in the place.

To Castlerigg take a Penrith bound X4, X5 or 509 to the road end, then walk back down into town afterwards.

Betsy -

What Stuart said!

I too would stay in Coniston as Windermere, Bowness and Ambleside get hideously busy, as does Keswick. But the bus services are good and will get you (almost) anywhere you want to go!

If you wanted somewhere off the beaten track nearer to Skipton we had a marvellous stay over Easter at the Queens Arms at Litton, (Littondale is a side valley off Wharfedale) but it’s pretty isolated and difficult, unfortunately, to get to other than by car or on foot. But maybe that’s why it retains it’s charm!

Ian

Stuart, I’ll be there on a Thursday, so I’m really looking forward to the market !

Oh how wonderful - I can’t think of anything more perfect than evening lakeside strolls

Oh wow - that theater is stunning! I’d probably see any movie - even one I’m not overly interested in- just to have that experience!

Thanks for the info re: Castlerigg!

I doubt I’d go to the spa as the only thing I’d be into is the pool, lol - but speaking of, I’d love to do wold swimming at Derwent Water. I hope the weather will be warm enough!

Have you been to Dove Cottage & the Wordsworth House ? It’s crazy that I’ve never read him, but I’m really wanting to visit…

I booked the b & b for 2 nights, but I’m going to try for 3 as there’s do much to do!

Thank you!!!

The market is a very good one. Do also have a look into the Museum.
The 78 Borrowdale bus also now runs to 8pm, opening up some evening
lake walks on Derwentwater. The Movie Theatre (the Alhambra) is a rare
example of a family owned independent. Tom's daughter (the man who
saved the place) and her partner take great pride in the place. To
Castlerigg take a Penrith bound X4, X5 or 509 to the road end, then
walk back down into town afterwards.

Ian

I did consider Coniston, but I think Keswick is better situated for what I want - I couldn’t resist the location on Derwentwater….plus it has a market, it’s near Castlerigg, etc…

I’ll be there in May, so hopefully it’s not peak season

That sounds lovely, and I think you’re right …the menu looks yummy, but I think it’s too long by taxi

Thanks!

Betsy - What Stuart said! I too would stay in Coniston as Windermere,
Bowness and Ambleside get hideously busy, as does Keswick. But the bus
services are good and will get you (almost) anywhere you want to go!
If you wanted somewhere off the beaten track nearer to Skipton we had
a marvellous stay over Easter at the Queens Arms at Litton,
(Littondale is a side valley off Wharfedale) but it’s pretty isolated
and difficult, unfortunately, to get to other than by car or on foot.
But maybe that’s why it retains it’s charm

Hi Betsy- I am sure you will love beautiful Keswick. Not sure if you enjoy real ale, but there is a very small brewery in Keswick I recommend in case you do: https://www.keswickbrewery.co.uk/

And, of course, there is the pencil museum which I still have not visited but hope to one of these days! Good luck with your side trip.

Hi Cat!

I’m sure I will - I just added an extra day because there’s so much to do!

I forgot about the Pencil Museum - I definitely want to see that!

I don’t drink, don’t like beer - but thank you for the recommendation!

Hi Betsy- I am sure you will love beautiful Keswick. Not sure if you
enjoy real ale, but there is a very small brewery in Keswick I
recommend in case you do: https://www.keswickbrewery.co.uk/ And, of
course, there is the pencil museum which I still have not visited but
hope to one of these days! Good luck with your side trip.

The official advice from the National Park about wild swimming in Derwentwater is that, due to boat traffic, you should have a chill swim float - whatsoever one of those might be.

I have not been to Dove Cottage since we moved up here in 1971, it's one of those things which is always to do tomorrow when you live locally. I'm led to believe it was done when we were holidaymakers in the years before 1971 but is beyond my memory now.

Whatever it is, I don’t have one, lol - I’ll look into it, though!

I get it - there are lots of things I intended to do when I lived in NY, but never got around to doing because I thought I had all the time in the world. I didn’t

The official advice from the National Park about wild swimming in
Derwentwater is that, due to boat traffic, you should have a chill
swim float - whatsoever one of those might be. I have not been to Dove
Cottage since we moved up here in 1971, it's one of those things which
is always to do tomorrow when you live locally. I'm led to believe it
was done when we were holidaymakers in the years before 1971 but is
beyond my memory now.

Somewhere else Wordsworth Rick and everyone else on here never mentions for some reason is Wordsworth House at Cockermouth Easy on the X4/X5 from Keswick or the 77C over Honister Pass. I have been in there in the past (closer to home) and am in Cockermouth live now, hence the thought.

The serious Wordsworth student would come out even further west, where there is more of interest

Stuart, I mentioned it above, along with Dove Cottage….but it does seem odd that no one posting here about the Lake District has done so. Even though I’ve never read any Wordsworth, it’s just the kind of house museum I love - and maybe it will inspire me to pick up a book of his poems

Somewhere else Wordsworth Rick and everyone else on here never
mentions for some reason is Wordsworth House at Cockermouth Easy on
the X4/X5 from Keswick or the 77C over Honister Pass. I have been in
there in the past (closer to home) and am in Cockermouth live now,
hence the thought. The serious Wordsworth student would come out even
further west, where there is more of interest

When you said The Wordsworth House I assumed you meant Rydal Mount. That is even dafter for me as I am frequently in Rydal Church, and from time to time at Rydal Hall.
Cockermouth was also the home of Fletcher Christian (Mutiny on the Bounty)- there is a very good history wall in the King's Arms Yard.
The Riverside Mill walk is also really good. For a quirky little museum look into the back of J B Banks hardware shop.
It is also a bit of a foodie town. You should see the prices in the new cake shop, next door to the equally new Turkish Restaurant!!
If you want fish and chips in Keswick forget Rick's recommendation which is just tourist central. Go to the Kingfisher and get Cumberland Sausage and Chips.
If you eat in try the Turkey and Ham pie.
That is real authentic Cumberland Sausage, made by themselves. And with a very real link to New York. In particular the Myers of Keswick shop.

Stuart, oh wow - that’s interesting!

Cockermouth was also the home of Fletcher Christian (Mutiny on the
Bounty)- there is a very good history wall in the King's Arms Yard

If I go, I’ll check them out - I’m a foodie!

You’re not the first one to recommend Kingfisher ! I’ll be honest, I’m not a sausage person - but I’m happy to be open minded!

It is also a bit of a foodie town. You should see the prices in the
new cake shop, next door to the equally new Turkish Restaurant!! If
you want fish and chips in Keswick forget Rick's recommendation which
is just tourist central. Go to the Kingfisher and get Cumberland
Sausage and Chips. If you eat in try the Turkey and Ham pie. That is
real authentic Cumberland Sausage, made by themselves. And with a very
real link to New York. In particular the Myers of Keswick shop.

I’ll be honest - I’m torn. I’d like to visit the Museum, but it means not being near the lakes - and that’s my priority

So now I’m thinking I would also love to do a cruise on Ullswater - or visit Coniston (the Gondola, Bluebird museum)

Both Ullswater & Coniston would be full days out from Keswick as they are long bus rides

It’s been suggested that Ullswater makes more sense as it’s a much shorter bus ride, the lake is considered the most beautiful, and I can combine a lake cruise with a visit to Aira Force…

The way I would do Ullswater from Keswick if I was a tourist, not a local is-
Saturday and Sunday- take the direct #509 bus from Keswick to Aira Force. Monday to Friday- take the 0750 X5 to Penrith Railway Station arrive 0834, either cross the road to see Penrith Castle or use the rather nice coffee truck outside the station, then the 0850 #508 to Aira Force Pier.
Afterwards take the boat from Aira Force Pier to Glenridding.
Buy an All piers pass on the boat

Hope to have time for lunch at Fellbites Cafe, but also buy a take out lunch from Booths (opens at 7am), in case timings go awry.
Then boat to Howtown, get off there, explore the local area including the old Church on the far side of the Hause and the new Church on this side of the hause.
Take the next boat to Pooley Bridge then the #509 bus over Kirkstone Pass to Windermere. Change for Keswick.
If I was driving I would stop off on my way to Aira Force at Matterdale Church (one of my favourites - the bus stops at the back gate), then drive to Watermillock Church (to begin the Spring- Rice story, which continues at Aira Force). A lovely remote Church.
I would hope to get one of my boats as the Raven (which was a Royal Yacht in 1912 when the German Emporer visited the "Yellow Earl")
The Ullswater boats were originally mainly lead ore and mail boats (slate mined at Glenridding).
By bus if you were here longer you could on another day stop at Matterdale Church, walk to Watermillock Church then down to the lake road. Bus to Tirril for a pub lunch, also to visit the very interesting Barton Church. Bus to Eamont Bridge for King Arthur's round table, Brougham Hall and Brougham Castle, then bus back to Keswick.

Stuart, this is fantastic, thanks! I definitely wouldn’t be up that early, lol, but everything else works. Is it an easy walk to Aira Force?

The way I would do Ullswater from Keswick if I was a tourist, not a
local is- Saturday and Sunday- take the direct #509 bus from Keswick
to Aira Force. Monday to Friday- take the 0750 X5 to Penrith Railway
Station arrive 0834, either cross the road to see Penrith Castle or
use the rather nice coffee truck outside the station, then the 0850

508 to Aira Force Pier. Afterwards take the boat from Aira Force Pier to Glenridding. Buy an All piers pass on the boat Hope to have time

for lunch at Fellbites Cafe, but also buy a take out lunch from Booths
(opens at 7am), in case timings go awry. Then boat to Howtown, get off
there, explore the local area including the old Church on the far side
of the Hause and the new Church on this side of the hause. Take the
next boat to Pooley Bridge then the #509 bus over Kirkstone Pass to
Windermere. Change for Keswick
Blockquote

Another option suggested to me is to go to Buttermere;

“I would take 77/77A bus from Keswick to Buttermere, ~50min very picturesque ride. Buttermere is a village and a lake. It’s a beautiful almost magical lake (just smaller than the rest mentioned) and surroundings. Of course, only thing to do there is to go for a hike, but you can take an easy hike around Buttermere lake. Pubs available in town, right by the bus stop.”

I have to say, this is appealing (I’d probably only do half the walk)

So much to do, so little time!

Thank you !!!

Betsy,
What many people do is be get off the bus at Gatesgarth Farm and walk either the North or South shore of Buttermere (about 3 miles) to Buttermere Village. Apart from the pubs there is also a wonderful ice cream parlour and tea room in the village, using milk from the farm's own herd of cows.
The bus is a circular- the 77 going out via Honister slate mine and Via Ferrata, back via Whinlatter. The 77C goes the other way round the circuit.
Lorton village and the Whinlatter Forest Park are also worthwhile stops on the circuit as is Grange in Borrowdale.
Buttermere Village is actually between two lakes- Buttermere and Crummock Water. Crummock is a natural lake but like Windermere and Ullswater is also a reservoir. If you stay on the bus past Buttermere to Lanthwaite there is a delectable walk down through the woods, round the head of the lake to the old waterworks, then up the canalised river (beck is the local word) to Loweswater Village where there is another lovely country pub and way oversized church (built for a mining industry which was stillborn). About a 30 to 45 !minute walk each way. Loweswater is the next lake a mile or so beyond the village.
A triumvirate of lakes.
Grange in Borrowdale and the head of Crummock are favourite local paddling places for locals. In this weather the river at Grange will be too low to swim.
You can walk the south shore of Crummock to Loweswater Village- an hour or so.
The toilets at Buttermere are pay toilets (as are most in the area), although I have a magic key to get free access.
You'll wish you had a couple of weeks in the area, if not a month.

Stuart, and someone suggested I do it anti-clockwise, to avoid walking on the road …

I believe you’re referring to Sykes - see, I do my research!

Betsy, What many people do is be get off the bus at Gatesgarth Farm
and walk either the North or South shore of Buttermere (about 3 miles)
to Buttermere Village. Apart from the pubs there is also a wonderful
ice cream parlour and tea room in the village, using milk from the
farm's own herd of cows.
Blockquote

This is great info! I’m by myself, so I’m likely to stick to the simplest route, but I’m keeping an open mind as it sounds wonderful

By the way, I am safe, correct? It’s not like being in a city - I’ll be by myself, walking (in general, wherever I may be) - and I don’t want to be completely solitary….

The bus is a circular- the 77 going out via Honister slate mine and
Via Ferrata, back via Whinlatter. The 77C goes the other way round the
circuit. Lorton village and the Whinlatter Forest Park are also
worthwhile stops on the circuit as is Grange in Borrowdale. Buttermere
Village is actually between two lakes- Buttermere and Crummock Water.
Crummock is a natural lake but like Windermere and Ullswater is also a
reservoir. If you stay on the bus past Buttermere to Lanthwaite there
is a delectable walk down through the woods, round the head of the
lake to the old waterworks, then up the canalised river (beck is the
local word) to Loweswater Village where there is another lovely
country pub and way oversized church (built for a mining industry
which was stillborn). About a 30 to 45 !minute walk each way.
Loweswater is the next lake a mile or so beyond the village

I would like to try wild swimming - maybe at Derwentwater, maybe at Buttermere infinity pool ;probably not there, though, as apparently it’s hard to find. By swimming, I mean just hanging around in the water, lol

I’ll definitely consider these other walks, but I’m likely to be conservative …

Grange in Borrowdale and the head of Crummock are favourite local
paddling places for locals. In this weather the river at Grange will
be too low to swim. You can walk the south shore of Crummock to
Loweswater Village- an hour or so. The toilets at Buttermere are pay
toilets (as are most in the area), although I have a magic key to get
free access.

If I weren’t going to North Wales for a few days before this, I would have made it a longer stay !

Thank you!!!

You'll wish you had a couple of weeks in the area, if not a month.

Betsy,
First of all when I wrote 77C above I meant 77A. 77C is the new Buttermere to Cockermouth bus which I was on yesterday.
I didn't intend to be on the 77C at all but was passing through Cockermouth, so just hopped on when I saw it.
I've just been looking up Buttermere Infinity Pools. You can tell that the articles have been written by people who went by car and have just added on bus info without knowledge.
The sort of people who are a massive nuisance- like at Catbells parking at Gatesgarth (and the appalling driving standards to get there) has become a huge problem. The 77C is actually one of the initiatives to desperately try to suppress car use.
Both the clockwise and anti clockwise buses 77 and 77A stop at the same place at Gatesgarth Farm, so the same small section of road walking at the start.
I can tell from the photographs where both sets of Infinity Pools are. The ones on Warnscale Beck are easy to find on the path up to Haystacks, the ones on Comb Beck on the way to High Stile a bit harder to find.
Gatesgarth Farm is two miles from Buttermere Village and it's facilities.

You are very safe in the area. We aren't a city or even rural America.

Stuart, thanks!

That’s good to know! So if I decide to to that, I’d start from Gatesgarth, head to the Pool, then get back to Gatesgarth and head to Buttermere…

Could be a great day

Thank you! If knew I was safe in villages, etc…, but not sure about waking out in the open…

Much appreciated !

Both the clockwise and anti clockwise buses 77 and 77A stop at the
same place at Gatesgarth Farm, so the same small section of road
walking at the start. I can tell from the photographs where both sets
of Infinity Pools are. The ones on Warnscale Beck are easy to find on
the path up to Haystacks, the ones on Comb Beck on the way to High
Stile a bit harder to find. Gatesgarth Farm is two miles from
Buttermere Village and it's facilities. You are very safe in the area.
We aren't a city or even rural America.

Betsy,
I've been shot down on this forum before for being too sensible and giving the official advice about walking safety.
So all I will say is that you should always wear proper walking boots with grip and ankle support, even on a flat and easy lakeside walk. Many don't and get away with it for years- me included. In my case it is for medical reasons.
You 'should' always have map and compass (and know how to use them), a torch (flashlight), food (Kendal Mint Cake is a good standby), water, change of clothes etc.
We don't have dangerous wildlife. If you see a deer (unlikely at close quarters but it has happened to me) or a snake (most likely an adder) stop dead in your tracks and let it do It's own thing. It will be a magical moment.
Unless it's ill it will ignore you if you stay out of its way.
Be careful of cattle in a field. They can be too friendly and people (even farmers) have been killed by stampeding cattle. Ensure you have a working phone with signal. If something/anything does happen call 999 and ask for Mountain Rescue. It is a free voluntary service, including the airlift if you have to be extracted by helicopter. No-one will judge you. Things happen, sometimes medically- cardiac or whatever.
Be prudent but don't over think it. Tell your hotel where you are going and what time you are due back, then they can call 999 if you aren't back.
People would rather respond to a well intentioned false alarm, than, well I don't have to spell it out.
Personally I'd prefer you not to wild swim alone, but I treat you as an adult who clearly is experienced and knows the risks, and how to mitigate them. Enough said.
There is an article in tonight's evening paper about re-wilding Crummock water now water extraction has ceased, and it's affect on wild swimming in that lake. An odd coincidence.

If Stuart has been in trouble here for quoting the party line for venturing into the U.K. countryside, especially the more remote, wilder bits then clearly I’ll be in the forum bad books too as you can count me in as a member of the Sensible Advice Club.

I differ only in one respect and that is, while Kendal Mint Cake may be a good emergency stand by, the fact that I believe you can feel your teeth rotting in real time as you eat the stuff, means you are much more likely to find me carrying a large bar of Tony’s Chocolonely (Salted Caramel for preference) only to be broken into in case of emergency, or in a couple of instances as a bribe when chivvying others up a particularly steep incline!

Seriously, as regards the gear, better to have it and not need it rather than the other way round.

Ian

P.S. At Dove Cottage I particularly enjoyed Edward De Quincy’s laudanum/opium scales!

Stuart, anyone shooting you down fir trying to help people is shameful

I’ll be honest - after reading this, I might just want to stick to villages/towns walks where there will be people….this is heavy duty stuff, and it’s honestly not for me

The Ullswater plan maybe seems more viable since maybe there would likely be more people around?

As to wild swimming, maybe I’ll just stick to doing that on Derwentwater - I imagine there are people there, so I wouldn’t be alone

Thanks !!

Ian, better to be safe than sorry!

But…this is too much for me. I just don’t feel comfortable having to deal with maps, compasses (which I don’t know how to use) , and basically being in survival mode.

I’m much better off sticking to where there are more people

Thanks:

FYI:

So far this is my plan:

May 20:

Skipton to Penrith

Bus from Penrith to Keswick

Lake cruise Derwentwater

May 21

Keswick to Grasmere
Dove Cottage. Bus - about 30 minutes

explore Grasmere
Bus to Ambleside

Betsy -

You should be OK at lower, lakeside levels. The problem of being properly equipped only becomes an issue once you start to climb into the hills. If you are wandering the shores of Derwentwater for instance, you are never usually far from civilisation, a road, farm, hotel etc. I’m sure we don’t want to scaremonger and thousands upon thousands never venture above the ‘intake walls’ without any bother, so no reason why you’d be any different. Make good decisions, take sensible precautions to suit where you’re headed!

Ian

On a far lighter note it may be worth asking Keswick TIC if there is anywhere you can visit the lambing sheds.
I'd assumed you couldn't do that nowadays but I had an e-mail tonight from someone I know who runs a mainly dairy farm about 3 miles away inviting people to come and help bottle feed 3 orphan lambs at one of their 4 daily feeds.
Now she's way too far out west for you, but it got me wondering.

Just wanted to add that my husband stayed in the Lake District in 2023 while I was at a class, and even though he had a car, he happily took the bus around – he was able to ooh and ahh at the scenery, AND witnessed two accidents (from the comfort of the bus) that made him even more glad he wasn't driving. Also it was raining hard (!). One crash was a motorcycle vs car and the motorcyclist was being evacuated in a helicopter (which was in the middle of the road, so the bus was stopped for about 20 minutes). Another was a car vs stone wall.

Ian, I’m not going into the hills - I’m sticking to what’s easy, since I have no hiking experience. I was told that getting to Aira Force is easy, so that’s something I’d do if I chose the Ullswater. day, but that kind of thing is the extent of what I intend to do

Oh absolutely - and I don’t think you were scaremongering; It’s extremely important to be prepared when you’re going out into the “wild”

I know my limitations and what I’m comfortable with - I’m not experienced outdoors - and I don’t intend to push myself.

Thank you!!!

Betsy - You should be OK at lower, lakeside levels. The problem of
being properly equipped only becomes an issue once you start to climb
into the hills. If you are wandering the shores of Derwentwater for
instance, you are never usually far from civilisation, a road, farm,
hotel etc. I’m sure we don’t want to scaremonger and thousands upon
thousands never venture above the ‘intake walls’ without any bother,
so no reason why you’d be any different. Make good decisions, take
sensible precautions to suit where you’re headed! Ian

Stuart, what’s TIC?

Oh, I’d love that !! That would be one of the highlights of my life!

I’ll look into & see oh there’s an opportunity…

There IS a dairy farm outside of Penrith that sells ice cream - and allows tours of the farm…

Thanks!

On a far lighter note it may be worth asking On a far lighter note it
may be worth asking Keswick TIC if there is anywhere you can visit the
lambing sheds. I'd assumed you couldn't do that nowadays but I had an
e-mail tonight from someone I know who runs a mainly dairy farm about
3 miles away inviting people to come and help bottle feed 3 orphan
lambs at one of their 4 daily feeds. Now she's way too far out west
for you, but it got me wondering.

Laura, that would be me - I’ll take the oohs and ahs without the accidents!

Car vs. stone wall is not much of a matchup …wow

Just wanted to add that my husband stayed in the Lake District in 2023
while I was at a class, and even though he had a car, he happily took
the bus around – he was able to ooh and ahh at the scenery, AND
witnessed two accidents (from the comfort of the bus) that made him
even more glad he wasn't driving. Also it was raining hard (!). One
crash was a motorcycle vs car and the motorcyclist was being evacuated
in a helicopter (which was in the middle of the road, so the bus was
stopped for about 20 minutes). Another was a car vs stone wall.

TIC is tourist information centre.

Thanks !

TIC is tourist information centre

Your trip sounds wonderful—what a great way to explore the Lake District! If you're after beautiful lake views, charming towns, and a car-free adventure, Ambleside is probably the better base for your overnight stay.

Ambleside has great public transport links, easy access to lake cruises on Windermere (even if it’s not your top pick, the northern section from Ambleside is still scenic), and it's closer to Grasmere, home of Wordsworth and lots of literary charm. The town itself is lively with lovely cafés, good food spots, and beautiful walks right from the doorstep.

Keswick is also fantastic—near Derwentwater, arguably more peaceful and scenic than Windermere, and packed with literary history and walking routes. But it’s a bit trickier to reach by train alone (you’d need to take a bus from Penrith). If you’re okay with a longer bus leg, Keswick is definitely a strong contender for its natural beauty and less touristy feel.

So, for convenience, food, and literary vibes: Ambleside.
For quieter, more dramatic lake views and a relaxed pace: Keswick.

Either way, you can’t go wrong. Enjoy your Lake District escape!

Would you like suggestions for places to eat or specific cruises worth trying from either town?

Boxaltaxi,

Thank you! This was a spur of the moment idea, and I’m so glad I decided to go for it!

I was really torn - but I ultimately decided on Keswick because it’s closer to a more beautiful, peaceful lake. I also had to make a decision quickly since I didn’t want to lose out on accommodations. It’s not difficult to get to Keswick - I’m ok with the extra added travel. I posted my vague itinerary above - I plan on going to Ambleside at least once (my gut tells me I’m going to love it, and will want to spend significant time there)

Your trip sounds wonderful—what a great way to explore the Lake
District! If you're after beautiful lake views, charming towns, and a
car-free adventure, Ambleside is probably the better base for your
overnight stay. Ambleside has great public transport links, easy
access to lake cruises on Windermere (even if it’s not your top pick,
the northern section from Ambleside is still scenic), and it's closer
to Grasmere, home of Wordsworth and lots of literary charm. The town
itself is lively with lovely cafés, good food spots, and beautiful
walks right from the doorstep. Keswick is also fantastic—near
Derwentwater, arguably more peaceful and scenic than Windermere, and
packed with literary history and walking routes. But it’s a bit
trickier to reach by train alone (you’d need to take a bus from
Penrith). If you’re okay with a longer bus leg, Keswick is definitely
a strong contender for its natural beauty and less touristy feel.
Blockquote

Oh I would love thos recommendations! I love to eat, do restaurants, cafes, bakeries, ice cream - you name it!

And yes - cruises! I love being out on the water, any chance I get

Thank you!!!!

So, for convenience, food, and literary vibes: Ambleside. For quieter,
more dramatic lake views and a relaxed pace: Keswick. Either way, you
can’t go wrong. Enjoy your Lake District escape! Would you like
suggestions for places to eat or specific cruises worth trying from
either town?

Going right back to square one I fundamentally don't agree with the premise that Windermere is a less beautiful lake. There is a lot of nonsense on the internet.

I've done the steamer cruise literally hundreds of times, and all the smaller launch piers dozens if not scores of times and it never fails to be different and spectacular especially in the off season when it's quieter and I get 75% to 80% off boat fares. I have seen the lake in all weathers even with ice floes.
One time last year I did the ten minute hop from Bowness to Windermere Jetty (the steamboat museum as was). That is part of the Round the Islands tour. Instead we went round the Islands first so it took about 45 minutes, but it was a treat not an inconvenience.

Regarding Coniston I've found a way to do both boats in the same day.
Bus to Ambleside and bus to Coniston. The locals trick is to get off at the Coniston Inn (a building with a rather interesting history) and get on the red cruise of the launch at their pier buying a £22 day ticket for all launch services.
If you stay on into Coniston you have a bit of a walk to the boat landings. The buses used to go down to the boats but had to stop due to the utterly selfish parking situation down there from those who refuse to be separated from their cars.
Then take the Gondola on her 1200 or 1400 sailing, then the launch on the Green Route to the head of the lake and back. On a Monday and Wednesday that is a Swallows and Amazons theme cruise (Arthur Ransome's childrens books, and two later movies), on a Tuesday and Thursday a Donald Campbell theme.
Then the 1843 bus back to Keswick via Ambleside. If you were on the 0830 bus from Keswick and changed to the launch at the Coniston Inn the 1400 Gondola cruise would also allow you two hours at Brantwood.

Near Keswick:
Places to Eat:
The Dog and Gun Inn – Famous for its hearty goulash and local ales.

Fellpack – Creative, seasonal dishes with a modern twist.

Morrels Restaurant – Upscale dining with a great wine list and views.

Kat’s Kitchen – A great choice for plant-based or gluten-free diets.

Cruises:
Derwentwater Launch – A scenic circular cruise around Derwentwater with hop-on, hop-off stops like Lodore Falls and Ashness Bridge.

Rowing Boats or Paddleboards – Rent your own from the Keswick Boat Launch for a more active experience.

Near Ambleside:
Places to Eat:
The Old Stamp House – Michelin-starred, inventive local cuisine.

Fresher’s Café – Cozy café perfect for brunch and baked goods.

Zeffirellis – Great for vegetarians, plus live jazz and a cinema.

The Priest Hole – Traditional Cumbrian fare in a rustic setting.

Cruises:
Windermere Lake Cruises – Depart from Waterhead Pier in Ambleside; try the Red Route to Bowness or Islands Cruise for a shorter trip.

Evening Cruises – Relaxing twilight sailings with drinks and light commentary.

Ian, perhaps I’ve been unfair to Windermere based on what I’ve read….but I still ultimately needed to make choices. If I get a chance to go on one of the Windermere cruises, I’d do it - absolutely.

Going right back to square one I fundamentally don't agree with the
premise that Windermere is a less beautiful lake. There is a lot of
nonsense on the internet.
Blockquote

I could do Coniston this way if I gave up Buttermere or Ullswater, whichever one I would end up choosing. It seems like I’d be doing a lot of traveling to get there, but I’ll look into it when I get home snd I have Wi-Fi. The good thing is, it would be a Thursday, so a Donald Campbell theme

I wouldn’t be getting up that early, so I doubt the museum would be feasible, but I’ll know more after I do a deep dive

Thank you!!!!

Regarding Coniston I've found a way to do both boats in the same day.
Bus to Ambleside and bus to Coniston. The locals trick is to get off
at the Coniston Inn (a building with a rather interesting history) and
get on the red cruise of the launch at their pier buying a £22 day
ticket for all launch services. If you stay on into Coniston you have
a bit of a walk to the boat landings. The buses used to go down to the
boats but had to stop due to the utterly selfish parking situation
down there from those who refuse to be separated from their cars. Then
take the Gondola on her 1200 or 1400 sailing, then the launch on the
Green Route to the head of the lake and back. On a Monday and
Wednesday that is a Swallows and Amazons theme cruise (Arthur
Ransome's childrens books, and two later movies), on a Tuesday and
Thursday a Donald Campbell theme. Then the 1843 bus back to Keswick
via Ambleside. If you were on the 0830 bus from Keswick and changed to
the launch at the Coniston Inn the 1400 Gondola cruise would also
allow you two hours at Brantwood.

Boxsltaxi, thank you so much! I’ll do a deep dive when I’m home & have Wi-Fi!

I’m do excited to be able to do the hop on-hop off cruise - it must be spectacular. I love waterfalls, so I’m especially looking forward to Lodore Falls

And, why not stay for dinner in Ambleside? If the buses will run to Keswick fairly late, then I’m good. An evening cruise sounds wonderful!

Thank you again!!!!

Near Keswick: Places to Eat: The Dog and Gun Inn – Famous for its
hearty goulash and local ales. Fellpack – Creative, seasonal dishes
with a modern twist. Morrels Restaurant – Upscale dining with a great
wine list and views. Kat’s Kitchen – A great choice for plant-based or
gluten-free diets. Cruises: Derwentwater Launch – A scenic circular
cruise around Derwentwater with hop-on, hop-off stops like Lodore
Falls and Ashness Bridge. Rowing Boats or Paddleboards – Rent your own
from the Keswick Boat Launch for a more active experience. Near
Ambleside: Places to Eat: The Old Stamp House – Michelin-starred,
inventive local cuisine. Fresher’s Café – Cozy café perfect for brunch
and baked goods. Zeffirellis – Great for vegetarians, plus live jazz
and a cinema. The Priest Hole – Traditional Cumbrian fare in a rustic
setting. Cruises: Windermere Lake Cruises – Depart from Waterhead Pier
in Ambleside; try the Red Route to Bowness or Islands Cruise for a
shorter trip. Evening Cruises – Relaxing twilight sailings with drinks
and light commentary.

The twilight cruises don't exist at this time of year.
On Windermere they only run on Saturday night, only from Bowness, and get back at 2130- too late for a bus north of Grasmere. Having said that you could take the last scheduled sailing (when it's quiet) and buy a snack and a drink from the on board bar. BC (before Covid) they alternated between Bowness and Ambleside.
On Derwentwater they only run in High summer.
On Coniston they ran BC and haven't restarted.

The last two buses back to Keswick run via Bowness Pier at just after 7pm and 8pm.

At Ambleside Fellini's is a vegetarian fine dining restaurant, Zeffirellis is an all day Pizza and Pasta vegetarian family restaurant. Both are in movie theatres (converted from other uses) and do dining/movie deals. They are part of the same group.

Stuart, thanks! Too bad about the twilight cruises, but your other option sounds just fine

Both menus look good! I’d have to have an early-ish dinner in Ambleside, but I’m not opposed to it

Thank you!!

The twilight cruises don't exist at this time of year. On Windermere
they only run on Saturday night, only from Bowness, and get back at
2130- too late for a bus north of Grasmere. Having said that you could
take the last scheduled sailing (when it's quiet) and buy a snack and
a drink from the on board bar. BC (before Covid) they alternated
between Bowness and Ambleside. On Derwentwater they only run in High
summer. On Coniston they ran BC and haven't restarted. The last two
buses back to Keswick run via Bowness Pier at just after 7pm and 8pm.
At Ambleside Fellini's is a vegetarian fine dining restaurant,
Zeffirellis is an all day Pizza and Pasta vegetarian family
restaurant. Both are in movie theatres (converted from other uses) and
do dining/movie deals. They are part of the same group.

It’s obvious Botalxi has created those posts using ChatGPT so they quite possibly don’t contain any first hand knowledge. Just something to be aware of.

As an example you would need to get to the Lodore falls by the Open Top Borrowdale Bus - the pier is closed due to low lake levels, with no rain due for at least ten days.
The hotel there is where Mum and Dad had their final, 50th, anniversary celebration. Very muted as Dad was very ill by then.

We are headed into a drought without a lot of rain falling- as of today Thirlmere (one of our biggest reservoirs) is at 59% capacity. Last year at this time it was over 90%.

Lingholm and Nichol End piers are also closed due to winter storm damage.

Helen, it didn’t even occur to me….I’m not a fan of using any chat to plan traveling, so that’s disappointing

I’ll do more research after I get back from North Wales…

Thanks!

It’s obvious Botalxi has created those posts using ChatGPT so they
quite possibly don’t contain any first hand knowledge. Just something
to be aware of

I’ve been loving the glorious weather, Stuart, but this is clearly an issue…

Do you think there will or could be issues on Derwentwater and/or other lakes?

I’m sorry about your dad - 50 years is remarkable

Oh wow…like I said, I’ve began loving the weather, but it is problematic

As an example you would need to get to the Lodore falls by the Open
Top Borrowdale Bus - the pier is closed due to low lake levels, with
no rain due for at least ten days. The hotel there is where Mum and
Dad had their final, 50th, anniversary celebration. Very muted as Dad
was very ill by then. We are headed into a drought without a lot of
rain falling- as of today Thirlmere (one of our biggest reservoirs) is
at 59% capacity. Last year at this time it was over 90%. Lingholm and
Nichol End piers are also closed due to winter storm damage.

If (a big if) the weather continues then eventually the smaller piers on Coniston and Windermere will close in peak summer, and possibly other Derwent water piers. I think it was 1976 when the Derwent water launches were eventually unable to run at all, and this Spring here is drier than any year since before I was born.
We also have a very high fire risk developing.

We also have a very good chance of the lost drowned villages of Armboth (Thirlmere) and Mardale (Haweswater) re-appearing.
That is always exciting.

By the way Donald Campbell also broke speed records on Ullswater. Yesterday it was announced that K7 is to return to Glenridding for one day on 23 July- the 70th anniversary of that record breaking run.

Wow - I hope it doesn’t get that bad……forget me, I’m just a tourist…it’s the residents who are affected

I didn’t know about those - now that would be cool!

Oh wow, that’s awesome about Bluebird!

Thanks!

If (a big if) the weather continues then eventually the smaller piers
on Coniston and Windermere will close in peak summer, and possibly
other Derwent water piers. I think it was 1976 when the Derwent water
launches were eventually unable to run at all, and this Spring here is
drier than any year since before I was born. We also have a very high
fire risk developing. We also have a very good chance of the lost
drowned villages of Armboth (Thirlmere) and Mardale (Haweswater)
re-appearing. That is always exciting. By the way Donald Campbell also
broke speed records on Ullswater. Yesterday it was announced that K7
is to return to Glenridding for one day on 23 July- the 70th
anniversary of that record breaking run.

Betsy-

Copied from a national park facebook post tonight-

Due to the recent weather, our lakes are at very low levels causing rapid changes in depths. Our Lake Ranger, Jack, has been at Coniston today to show you how you only have to walk a couple of metres into the lake before you reach sudden drops. Many other lakes in the National Park are similar, make sure you're prepared, follow Jack's tips and look out for the water changing from clear water to dark shades quickly.

https://www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/visiting/things-to-do/water/swimming?fbclid=IwY2xjawKMjn9leHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETFkcURjcFpYMTRCZW8xQ0FRAR5xfRVcaC7KNtWpnLl0rJLdxZltsx3HIkwdP1FMvPNxqrIj0JyDfqzibimuLA_aem_aCawkeINob4Hl_lf4nv8nA

(includes details of guided swims)

Stuart, thanks!!!

That’s scary…. I’m definitely going to check out this link….

Betsy- Copied from a national park facebook post tonight- Due to the
recent weather, our lakes are at very low levels causing rapid changes
in depths. Our Lake Ranger, Jack, has been at Coniston today to show
you how you only have to walk a couple of metres into the lake before
you reach sudden drops. Many other lakes in the National Park are
similar, make sure you're prepared, follow Jack's tips and look out
for the water changing from clear water to dark shades quickly.
https://www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/visiting/things-to-do/water/swimming?fbclid=IwY2xjawKMjn9leHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETFkcURjcFpYMTRCZW8xQ0FRAR5xfRVcaC7KNtWpnLl0rJLdxZltsx3HIkwdP1FMvPNxqrIj0JyDfqzibimuLA_aem_aCawkeINob4Hl_lf4nv8nA
(includes details of guided swims)