Please sign in to post.

Lake District without car: Ambleside or Keswick

Hi!

I'm staying in Skipton for a month, & I thought I might stay overnight in the Lake District - train to Windermere.

I've actually booked a day tour with Mountain Goat tours, but it doesn't include a lake cruise - and as much as I love being on the water, I don't think that tour is for me. They do stop at Hawkshead, & that looks like a lovely place to visit…I believe that’s closer to Ambleside

Which would be the better base for 1 night stay - Keswick or Ambleside?

My priorities are at least one lake cruise (preferably not Windermere as most don't seem to think there are other more beauful lakes), lovely towns to explore, good food options...of course literary history. Really, I just need to me able to get around without a car. It's just going to be a taste of the Lake District ..

Thank you!!

Posted by
9337 posts

It doesn't much matter which, with such frequent bus services.

Four lakes have boats- Coniston (both the wonderful Steam boat Gondola, and the Coniston Launch company);Ullswater, Windermere and Derwentwater (Keswick).
Each has special combination bus and boat tickets with Stagecoach- boat trip on the respective lake and unlimited bus rides that day.
Ullswater is reached on the 508 from Windermere or Penrith stations, Coniston on the 505 from Windermere station, or the little known X12 from Ulverston (birthplace of Stan Laurel of Laurel and Hardy).
If you asked me for my favourite I would say Coniston, with an overnight in Coniston Village, to allow you to do both boats, visit Brantwood (home of John Ruskin) and visit the village museum.
Also find out about mining there - including German miners. Plus more surprises for you to find!
Stay in Hawkshead (the neighbouring village instead) if you prefer, then the bus to Coniston.

From Skipton you could also buy a Cumbria Day Ranger train ticket- for a day of scenic railways- Skipton to Carlisle, down the Cumbria Coast to Carnforth (the Brief Encounter movie) then return on the Bentham line to Skipton.
Also from Lancaster (not Skipton) there is the brilliant Lakes Day Ranger train ticket- trains from Lancaster to Windermere, Penrith and Workington via Barrow, all buses and the Windermere steamers.

Posted by
637 posts

Stuart, this is brilliant - not just the part I’m quoting, but all of it; so much to take in, and I can’t wait! I imagine it’s pretty busy in May, so I may need to take what I can get….

I’m not that familiar with Ruskin, but I’m always interested in learning new things…

I did a quick Google about Germsm miners …fascinating!

I’m going to do a deep dive - should be fun!

Ooh - I love trains, so I’ll look into those as well

Thank you!!!

If you asked me for my favourite I would say Coniston, with an
overnight in Coniston Village, to allow you to do both boats, visit
Brantwood (home of John Ruskin) and visit the village museum. Also
find out about mining there - including German miners. Plus more
surprises for you to find! Stay in Hawkshead (the neighbouring village
instead) if you prefer, then the bus to Coniston. From Skipton you
could also buy a Cumbria Day Ranger train ticket- for a day of scenic
railways- Skipton to Carlisle, down the Cumbria Coast to Carnforth
(the Brief Encounter movie) then return on the Bentham line to
Skipton. Also from Lancaster (not Skipton) there is the brilliant
Lakes Day Ranger train ticket- trains from Lancaster to Windermere,
Penrith and Workington via Barrow, all buses and the Windermere
steamers.

Posted by
9337 posts

Betsy, One thing to bear in mind is that many places in the Central Lakes have a minimum two night stay. Clearly there is no general point in me staying overnight so close to home. But on the rare occasions when I do need to (usually due to an event at the now closed Royalty, Bowness) I normally have to drop down into Kendal for single night stays. The same problem in Keswick is why I can't do Theatre by the Lake.

Posted by
637 posts

Stuart, I’m considering 2 nights as well since one night really means barely one full day total (part of arrival day, part of departure day)

I’m not sure why only staying one night means you can’t go to the theater?

Someone on another board also recommended Conistion. The Gondola steamship looks wonderful, and I love all the lake cruise options, but is there enough to do in the town? And is public transport good to towns like Keswick & Ambleside? Or Hawkshead?

I know a little about Donald Campbell, so getting the chance to see his memorabilia would be fascinating

Still torn as Keswick seems like there’s more to do (and it’s on Derwentwater). Ambleside might be better for a visit …But both have their advocates

Thanks!

Betsy, One thing to bear in mind is that many places in the Central
Lakes have a minimum two night stay. Clearly there is no general point
in me staying overnight so close to home. But on the rare occasions
when I do need to (usually due to an event at the now closed Royalty,
Bowness) I normally have to drop down into Kendal for single night
stays. The same problem in Keswick is why I can't do Theatre by the
Lake.

Posted by
9337 posts

Betsy,

The bus from Ambleside to Coniston via Hawkshead now runs hourly from 0620, with the last back to Ambleside and Kendal at 2020.
The 2020 bus

Likewise from Keswick the first bus south to Ambleside and beyond is at 7am, then hourly (half hourly at times). The last back from Ambleside to Keswick at 2030.

Coniston has a good few pubs and restaurants, also it is now light until mid evening for walks. I guess it depends on what you are wanting in a town, but Coniston and Hawkshead are both well equipped for tourists.
You could for instance take the last launch of the night to Torver (or even the surprise which is Lake Bank pier) then follow the Lake shore path back to Coniston. In this week's weather that would be a superlative walk.
A nice short walk is out to the Roman Catholic church, then the tracked of the old railway back to the old station high above the town.

As regards the theatre if you lived 30 minutes away by car (I've done it in 20 in a company or rental car when I can drive much more aggressively) or just over an hour by bus, would you stay for a 2 night minimum just to go to theatre? One night (if I could get it) would be a huge splurge, but my last bus home is at 2215 which is too tight for end of theatre. A bit frustrating.

Posted by
637 posts

Last thing first- oh you’re right, Stuart - I would not spend money for 2 nights just to go to the theater, unless I was going to take a mini-vacation anyway

I booked this place in Keswick because I decided that I want to be close to Derwentwater and Castlerigg stone circle, plus there’s a market.

https://fellpack.co.uk/fellpack-house/

But I definitely want to go to Coniston!

Thank you!!

Posted by
9337 posts

It's nice and quiet on the Heads. You can walk to their spa at the Underscar in about 45 minutes, or buses 554 and X4 drop you off at Applethwaite Road End.
The way I would personally walk out to Underscar is the start of the Allerdale Ramble past Crosthwaite Church, but there are other routes.

The market is a very good one. Do also have a look into the Museum.

The 78 Borrowdale bus also now runs to 8pm, opening up some evening lake walks on Derwentwater.

The Movie Theatre (the Alhambra) is a rare example of a family owned independent. Tom's daughter (the man who saved the place) and her partner take great pride in the place.

To Castlerigg take a Penrith bound X4, X5 or 509 to the road end, then walk back down into town afterwards.

Posted by
1415 posts

Betsy -

What Stuart said!

I too would stay in Coniston as Windermere, Bowness and Ambleside get hideously busy, as does Keswick. But the bus services are good and will get you (almost) anywhere you want to go!

If you wanted somewhere off the beaten track nearer to Skipton we had a marvellous stay over Easter at the Queens Arms at Litton, (Littondale is a side valley off Wharfedale) but it’s pretty isolated and difficult, unfortunately, to get to other than by car or on foot. But maybe that’s why it retains it’s charm!

Ian

Posted by
637 posts

Stuart, I’ll be there on a Thursday, so I’m really looking forward to the market !

Oh how wonderful - I can’t think of anything more perfect than evening lakeside strolls

Oh wow - that theater is stunning! I’d probably see any movie - even one I’m not overly interested in- just to have that experience!

Thanks for the info re: Castlerigg!

I doubt I’d go to the spa as the only thing I’d be into is the pool, lol - but speaking of, I’d love to do wold swimming at Derwent Water. I hope the weather will be warm enough!

Have you been to Dove Cottage & the Wordsworth House ? It’s crazy that I’ve never read him, but I’m really wanting to visit…

I booked the b & b for 2 nights, but I’m going to try for 3 as there’s do much to do!

Thank you!!!

The market is a very good one. Do also have a look into the Museum.
The 78 Borrowdale bus also now runs to 8pm, opening up some evening
lake walks on Derwentwater. The Movie Theatre (the Alhambra) is a rare
example of a family owned independent. Tom's daughter (the man who
saved the place) and her partner take great pride in the place. To
Castlerigg take a Penrith bound X4, X5 or 509 to the road end, then
walk back down into town afterwards.

Posted by
637 posts

Ian

I did consider Coniston, but I think Keswick is better situated for what I want - I couldn’t resist the location on Derwentwater….plus it has a market, it’s near Castlerigg, etc…

I’ll be there in May, so hopefully it’s not peak season

That sounds lovely, and I think you’re right …the menu looks yummy, but I think it’s too long by taxi

Thanks!

Betsy - What Stuart said! I too would stay in Coniston as Windermere,
Bowness and Ambleside get hideously busy, as does Keswick. But the bus
services are good and will get you (almost) anywhere you want to go!
If you wanted somewhere off the beaten track nearer to Skipton we had
a marvellous stay over Easter at the Queens Arms at Litton,
(Littondale is a side valley off Wharfedale) but it’s pretty isolated
and difficult, unfortunately, to get to other than by car or on foot.
But maybe that’s why it retains it’s charm

Posted by
330 posts

Hi Betsy- I am sure you will love beautiful Keswick. Not sure if you enjoy real ale, but there is a very small brewery in Keswick I recommend in case you do: https://www.keswickbrewery.co.uk/

And, of course, there is the pencil museum which I still have not visited but hope to one of these days! Good luck with your side trip.

Posted by
637 posts

Hi Cat!

I’m sure I will - I just added an extra day because there’s so much to do!

I forgot about the Pencil Museum - I definitely want to see that!

I don’t drink, don’t like beer - but thank you for the recommendation!

Hi Betsy- I am sure you will love beautiful Keswick. Not sure if you
enjoy real ale, but there is a very small brewery in Keswick I
recommend in case you do: https://www.keswickbrewery.co.uk/ And, of
course, there is the pencil museum which I still have not visited but
hope to one of these days! Good luck with your side trip.

Posted by
9337 posts

The official advice from the National Park about wild swimming in Derwentwater is that, due to boat traffic, you should have a chill swim float - whatsoever one of those might be.

I have not been to Dove Cottage since we moved up here in 1971, it's one of those things which is always to do tomorrow when you live locally. I'm led to believe it was done when we were holidaymakers in the years before 1971 but is beyond my memory now.

Posted by
637 posts

Whatever it is, I don’t have one, lol - I’ll look into it, though!

I get it - there are lots of things I intended to do when I lived in NY, but never got around to doing because I thought I had all the time in the world. I didn’t

The official advice from the National Park about wild swimming in
Derwentwater is that, due to boat traffic, you should have a chill
swim float - whatsoever one of those might be. I have not been to Dove
Cottage since we moved up here in 1971, it's one of those things which
is always to do tomorrow when you live locally. I'm led to believe it
was done when we were holidaymakers in the years before 1971 but is
beyond my memory now.