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Lake District walking - where to base, when to go?

Please bear with me for this long-winded inquiry. We're doing some preliminary planning about a 10 - 14 day trip to England for 2020. We've been to London, but nowhere else in the British Isles. We love to hike/walk. We know we want to spend 5 - 7 days walking on moderate to strenuous trails in the Lake District. We're leaning towards Keswick as a base, in part because we are hoping to do the trip without a car and the transport options to trailheads look best from there. A couple of questions:

1) Do you disagree with Keswick as a base for moderate to strenuous hikes -- as opposed to, for example, Coniston, Ambleside,
Elterwater or somewhere else?

2) Connected to that question, do you think we really do need a car to get to the best trailheads for moderate to strenuous hikes?

3) I know it is an over-asked and perhaps silly question, but what season would you recommend, knowing we will plan to walk on higher ridge lines and to the tops (we love the long range views from high up)? I know the weather is extremely variable, and every season has its pros and cons, but we just want to increase our statistical odds that we don't have several days in a row of rain and that we have decent views. But we've got the gear, and have walked in the rain, if necessary. All other things being equal, we would also prefer to avoid the worst crowds, but generally crowds in the towns don't bother us that much, especially while we're walking higher up. So, for example, if you think July is best for the walking, so be it; the priority is the walking. Based on early research, we're leaning towards May, but we could go any season.

We are also aware of companies like Contours or HF Holidays and we may decide to use someone like that, but for now we are looking at doing it ourselves.

Difficult to predict the weather - July could be colder and wetter than May, for example.

May has two bank holidays and the final week is a holiday week for most schools, so it can be busy. June would be nice - no guarantee of lovely weather, but it’ll stay light for ages.

Posted by
292 posts

Mark,

I stayed in Keswick from Oct. 12 – 16 last fall, and it was a great base for hiking. The fall colors added to the views as well. I did get some rain, but some sunny days as well. They had several days of warm sunny weather before I arrived and then a mix of rain and sun while I was there. It’s popular then, but not as crowded as the summer months. The school holidays start about a week after, so it gets crowded then.

I hiked Catbells near Keswick, which is popular and offers tremendous views. There were several hang gliders using one of the ridges to launch while I was near the top, so it was fun to watch them from above. The bus takes about 46 minutes vs. 15 by car.

There is also a boat tour of Derwentwater that allows you to get off at different jetties, so you can hop off near the Catbells trail head, hike up and down the other side and catch the ferry at a different spot.

https://keswick-launch.co.uk/

There is a nice trail around the lake that starts in the town near the boat launch as well. There are other trails as well that you can reach by bus. Keswick has nice outdoor shops and restaurants and a theatre as well.

I rented a car in Kendal; took the train from London to Oxenholme, and the rental agency picked me up there. I wanted to tour some Wordsworth sites as well as hike, so the car was convenient, and I did some nice drives as well combined with short hikes. But you could manage a number of hikes from Keswick without a car.

I enjoyed the town and its atmosphere. Many of the guest houses cater to hikers.

All the best,

Raymond

Posted by
1526 posts

We were in the Lake District in September and the weather was still warm with flowers. The Lake District will be crowded because it is a popular tourist and day tripper destination. Look at National Trust UK web site for great info on hundreds of historic sites and hikes. You can order their Overseas Visitor Touring Pass for Individuals, Couples and Families for 7 or 14 days that can save you money on admissions. You can pick it up at one of their listed sites.

Posted by
5837 posts

We spent a night in Patterdale on our Coast to Coast walk. Turned out that Patterdale was hosting some kind of walking jamboree and walking groups were all over the Patterdale tracks. Patterdale is memerable in that starting from Garsmere, I took the Helwellyn opton of the Wainwright route descending to Patterdale via the Striding Edge route. Patterdale is also memerable in that we departed the Lake District the next dy walking by Angle Tarn, considered by many to be the prettiest tarn in the Lake District and crossed Kidsty Pike in a zero visability whiteout.

Patterdale walks: https://www.hikideas.com/walk-patterdale.html

Posted by
17563 posts

We did the guided walking holiday with HF Holidays in late May, staying in their country house right on the lake at Derwentwater ( just outside of Keswick). It was late May and the weather was perfect ( which has generally been true of our May visits in the U.K.). We had a view down the lake to the Catbells from our room and from the lawn in front. The walks on offer included the ascent of Scarfell Pike, the highest point in England ( but not in the U.K.). My husband did that one, while I opted for something a bit less challenging that particular day. On another hike we ascended to the top of a “peak” whose name I forget; a bit of scrambling was involved but nothing tricky or exposed, and the views were wonderful.

We really enjoyed everything about the HF Holidays approach: the accommodations and meals were great, the camaraderie was enjoyable, and it was nice to have the transport to the trailheads, and a guide for the more convoluted routes. We had previously done a self-guided holiday in Wales, and were amused but often a bit befuddled by the walking directions, such as “cross a stile by a gate, and keeping the dingle on your right, ascend diagonally across the field (which diagonal?) to a gap (which gap?) in the bushes, from whence one can see the footpath leading onward”.

In fact we like HF Holidays so much we are returning to England later this month to their Dorset Coast country house to go walking there.

Posted by
1344 posts

Hi Mark -

Keswick is OK as a base - puts you near Skiddaw and Blencathra and out westwards, Grisedale Pike et al.

However if you’re not overly attracted by the urban facilities of Keswick you might consider basing yourself in Borrowdale, Rosthwaite or Seathwaite to be precise. There’s nothing much there but they are both jumping off points for the Sca Fells, Great Gable, etc. If you need the urban entertainments of Keswick (and who wouldn’t, it is a great base with plenty of facilities) there is a reasonably frequent bus service down to Borrowdale from Keswick. If you hike the Catbells, Maiden Moor, Dalehead ridge you can drop down into Borrowdale and catch the bus back.

Equally on a day when the weather doesn’t cooperate the same bus will take you from Keswick to the Lodore Hotel where you can take in the falls (see Robert Southey’s famed poem) and hike through to the hamlet of Watendlath (more literary connections via Hugh Walpole’s ‘Rogue Herries’) via Caffel Side and then back down to Rosthwaite for the bus back (or if the weather improves via the Catbells Terrace back to Keswick via Portinscale for instance).

In planning your hikes the bus timetable, and maybe the Derwentwater ferry timetable, and more importantly, Alfred Wainwright are your friends. Wainwright’s seven volume ‘Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells’’ are the Lakeland fell walkers Bible. Though originally written over fifty years ago (they have recently been updated by the equally obsessive/eccentric Chris Jesty) they have never been surpassed and are as much works of art and philosophy as guide books!

I also like Langdale as a base and have a soft spot for Coniston, although there aren’t as many peaks from Coniston to choose from (although the Brown Pike, Dow Crag and Old Man circuit remains a particular favourite). Coniston has several excellent pubs though and no Lakeland visit is complete without a visit to the Old Dungeon Ghyll at the far end of Langdale. Glenrhydding in Patterdale is another excellent base for the likes of Helvellyn and St. Sunday Crag.

I can’t guarantee you fair weather, but hope it remains fair for your trip whenever you choose. There are things to take from each season but there is no doubt the extended daylight hours of summer give you more time and options. That said there are no icy, thrilling crampon assisted ascents in summer!

I hope you can organise something to suit your requirements and I hope the magic of the Lakes gets through to you for your visit as it did to me on my first visit, oh, so many years ago! If I can be of further assistance, feel free to PM me.

Ian

Posted by
6 posts

Thanks to everyone for the replies.

Edgar (or anyone else), can you get to Patterdale from Keswick without a car (I'm guessing not)? I've seen the walks to Striding Edge/Helvellyn and to Angle Tarn and they are on my ever-increasing list of potential candidates. If I need a car, I'll get one and brave driving on the other side; I've never done it. But if I can get to Patterdale from Keswick (or perhaps from Windermere if I used that town as a base) by public or hired transport, then I'm inclined to try to avoid driving a car. And thanks for the link Edgar. I envy your coast to coast walk, but we're not quite up for that many days in a row of walking.

Lola, thanks for the encouragement about May. Just one question for you. How close is the country house that HF uses from Keswick? Is it a short walk?

Mark

Posted by
6 posts

Thanks Ian; I didn't see your reply before I posted mine. Lots of great information for me to consider. I'm just going to have to decide whether I can be satisfied with the walks that are reachable without a car near one base town or whether I feel like I have to "cherry pick" the "best" 4 or 5 walks from throughout the areas of the Lake District -- and drive to them. I suppose a middle ground would be a company like Contours that allows me to make a circuit walk between towns; they have a couple of interesting ones.

So many choices, but all of them good ones.

Mark

Posted by
161 posts

Keswick was our base for exploring the northern Lake District, and we absolutely loved it. Castlerigg ancient stone circle, paths across fields and through the woods, and a boat across the lake to the start of a challenging hike. The Dog & Gun pub served up a great goulash, and was filled with locals. The co-op was perfect for our picnic lunches. We even used the laundrymat, since we were on a three week trip around England. Don't forget about the pencil museum and the Keswick Museum and Art Gallery. Our trip was train-based, so in Keswick, we took a bus to Wordsworth's cottage.

Arrived by train to Penrith station, and then bus to town. I can't recommend Keswick enough. Our accommodation was Dunsford House, one of Rick's recommendations. We did bring our hiking boots on this trip specifically for this area. Did the Catbells hike, but there are plenty others on that side of the lake, across from the town. Talk about stunning peaks with lovely views.

We were there in May, and we purposely got out of their to avoid the beer festival. We wanted a more normal feel. Check with your B&B or a tourist info website to steer clear of crowded events.

https://cleob.smugmug.com/Travel/England-2010/i-KBPVcPV