Lake District Logistics

We've toured parts of the Lake District without a car but our primary activity was walking.

You can reach the Lake District by train to Oxenholme. From Oxenholme we rode the local train to Windermere. Windermere is served by local bus, but we had a short walk from the Windermere train station to our B&B hotel.

There was a bus stop (Bus 555) next to our B&B that could get you to Grasmere of William Wordsworth fame. We also walked by the bunny lady's Hilltop farm, but it was raining so hard we didn't see it. You can take the Windermere Ferry across the lake and walk or take a shuttle to the Hilltop farm and Hawkshead. Wordsworth spent early years in Hawkshead.

While not a usual high school English Literature author, you may find inspiration to visit the Lake District in Chiang Yee's "The Silent Traveler: a Chinese Artist in Lakeland", 1936.

Chiang wrote about ‘the particular joy’ of his time in the Lake
District, which is now a national park, saying it was ‘the most
agreeable period of all my English experience’. He describes it as
‘constantly green, beautiful and peaceful’ and at the end of his visit
he wrote ‘I leave this Lakeland, and with longing seek to return’.

You might want to get to and from the Lake District by train and local bus, and then rent a car for the few days you're in the LD, to tour around to the different villages and sites on your own schedule.

The nearest train station to Keswick is in Penrith. From Penrith it's an easy bus ride to Keswick (and probably other Lake District towns too). Keswick is a good home base, because it's pretty central, easy to get to, and there's plenty to do right in the town. Lots of lodging options, too.

There's a direct train from Carlisle to Edinburgh. You might be able to take the train from Penrith to Carlisle.

Busses (coaches) are plentiful and easy to use. They often give you a discount for your group, too.

It can be rainy any time of year, especially in the Lake District. Each little valley has its own microclimate. It could be sunny in one place, but foggy and rainy over the next hill. Bring light rain jackets, several changes of socks, and sturdy walking shoes.

You'll have a great time, and so will your girls!

Edgar is right, you can reach Windermere via the West Coast Line and local train from Oxenholme. As it is the West Coast Line the trains on that route are Glasgow bound, but it is an easy forty minute or so connection through to Edinburgh from Glasgow. There may even be direct to Edinburgh trains that run on from Glasgow - try looking at a website like 'The Trainline' or even Virgin Trains to see what your options from Oxenholme north are.

You will need rain gear - in July I'd take a lightweight waterproof - as the weather is unpredictable. IF the weather is particularly inclement, and you plan to take to the fells (hills) then a cheap pair of over trousers might be a sensible idea. There are plenty of opportunities to pick these up in the Lakes, once you've got there and considered the weather forecast! The tourist info centres usually have an in depth forecast posted covering the immediate area for two to three days and these are more reliable than the TV forecasts as they are specially geared to hillwalking. On the hillwalking front you will probably get away with 'approach shoes' in good, dry weather but if the weather is not good boots with ankle support are a good idea if taking to the hills.

If staying in Windermere and you wish to be near the lake, look for accommodation in Bowness on Windermere as opposed to Windermere itself which can be a good couple of miles walk from the shore.

Windermere is well served by boats that will take you up to Ambleside if required, but again Edgar is correct about the buses. There is a bus that will take you all the way up to Keswick from Windermere too.

You might consider taking in Brantwood which is the home of John Ruskin, beautifully situated on Coniston Water on the far (east) shore from Coniston village. If you have no car it is quite a road hike there though. Greta Hall, home of both Coleridge and later Southey is in the centre of Keswick - I am unsure whether it is open to the public, it used to be a school but wasn't last time I was there, so things may have changed.

Grasmere is the place to see several of Wordsworths homes, notably Dove Cottage which has a full visitor centre on site. Grasmere and environs get incredibly busy in the summer months, mainly because of the lure of Wordsworth, so a visit early in the day visit is recommended.

If planning to take to the fells for a hike/walk/ramble consult the blessed Alfred Wainwright! No finer source!

Hope you have a great trip and the weather is kind. You might find me up there myself!

Thanks for the advice so far! This was starting to feel a bit out of reach; I love planning trips and have done so many times, but am having a hard time getting my head around the transport to a more remote area. When my husband and I backpacked around Europe a good 15 years ago (!), we just went with the flow and a train pass. It's different with 2 teen girls.

How easy is it to rent a car once we're there? I'm trying to gauge whether it might be best to do that rather than reserve in advance. I'm running into roadblocks trying to pin one down in Penrith or Windermere at the moment. I like the freedom to explore with a car. But could I get a bus to, say, the trailhead to Aira Force? or any other waterfall rambles?

I'm sure we'd also be content rambling from wherever we stay, but I am trying to get an idea of how easy that is!
--Shelbey

But could I get a bus to, say, the trailhead to Aira Force?

There are a lot of Lake District walking resources including the National Trust website:
https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/aira-force-and-ullswater#How to get here

By ferry Ullswater Steamers operate from Glenridding and run services
to Aira Force.

By bus from Penrith train station to Patterdale

By road Approach the valley via Windermere and Bowness (A591) and
Ambleside (The Struggle) for a scenic drive down the steep windy
Kirkstone Pass. Alternatively access the valley from Junction 40 of
the M6, or from Keswick/Penrith on the A66.

Parking: Main Aira Force Car Park, £5 for 2 hours, £7 for 4 hours, £9
all day, NT Members park for free. Glencoyne Bay, Park brow & High
Cascades Car Parks: £4 for 2 hours, £5.50 for 4 hours, £6.50 all day,
NT members park for free.

Here's a web resource for finding walks closer to your overnight accommodation:
http://www.golakes.co.uk/adventure-capital/walking-lake-district.aspx

Use the National Rail website, along with a map, to explore your options between London and cities closer to the Lake District. Look for a fast convenient train to a city big enough to have good car rental options and close enough to Windermere or Keswick to be an easy drive. Manchester, Liverpool, Leeds? Try to avoid multiple train changes and "milk run" locals that take a long time. You're better off taking the train from London, but at some point a car will become more efficient for getting to your rural targets. It will definitely help to have a car once you're in the lake country, so you might as well get it along the way.

Same strategy in reverse getting to Edinburgh. Look for a place to drop the car (Carlisle?) with good train service to Edinburgh.

You'll probably find that buying fast train tickets in advance will save you money, look at the options on the website. And certainly you'll want to reserve the car ahead of time. July is high season and parking may be an issue in the small towns around the lakes. Bus service is pretty good, but a car will give you more options.

I'd definitely bring at least a rain parka or some such, even for the cities. How much more you might need will depend on forecast and activities. As suggested above, you probably can pick up some inexpensive waterproof layers on the spot (but not footwear).

How easy is it to rent a car once we're there? I'm trying to gauge whether it might be best to do that rather than reserve in advance. I'm running into roadblocks trying to pin one down in Penrith or Windermere at the moment.

Since you plan to visit Edinburgh why not rent a car there? The drive from Edinburgh to Keswick is only about 3 hours. You could explore renting in Edinburgh and dropping off in Windermere or Carlisle or whatever works best for a train back to London.

I always use a car for exploring areas like the Cotswolds and the Lake District. Two years ago when I toured both by car I was surprised to find that the roads were a lot narrower than I remembered them to be. The difference is probably not road width but heavier traffic. We were there in Mid-July and the traffic (cars and "white vans") definitely exceeded that projected by the road design planners. Don't let that alter your plans, just be very careful on all blind corners.