Traveling to London at the beginning of Dec. with my husband and boys age 7 and 5. Our trip is short and we'll potentially be dealing with some seriously jet-lagged children. My husband and I don't feel pressure to squeeze in a ton of touristy stuff because we've already done it, and we plan to take the boys back for a longer trip when they're older. This trip is all about experiencing London at Christmas and enjoying some of our favorite cultural experiences (classic pubs, afternoon tea, fish and chips, London transportation, walks around the city).
I would love specific suggestions to build our London itinerary. We're interested in uniquely London experiences and not just classic big city attractions (although I know London has great children's museums/zoos, we live outside Chicago and are an hour's drive from world-class aquariums, zoos, museums, etc. so while I'd love to visit these places sometime, that's not what we're looking for on this trip). I need help building a specific itinerary. I have a list of everything we want to hit (see below), but with only 2 full days and 2 small children, I want to be as efficient as possible.
We are staying in Islington/Angel. We're taking a red eye flight from Chicago and land around noon. I anticipate arriving at our lodging in Islington around 2/2:30 p.m. after clearing customs and traveling from Heathrow. Fingers crossed my kiddos sleep on the plane but even if they do it won't be a full night's worth. So I'm keeping my expectations for that evening/night low but would still like to do something on our list. I'm thinking walking around (where?) and cozy pub for dinner? Also I am celiac and require a gluten free diet.
Here's what's on our list so far:
Christmas Markets: Covent Gardens is high on my list, so is Borough Market. Are there any I'm overlooking? And how many markets are worth hitting? I'd love to do Greenwich Market/Cutty Sark/etc. though I'm worried it doesn't make sense during such a short trip.
Christmas in London (give me all your recs!)
London Transportation (for my vehicle-loving kids!):
• Double deck bus (would love recs on the best routes to take to see sights and Christmas lights + routes that hit the other items on our list)
• Hop on hop off bus (I'm considering doing this one day as a relaxed way to see a lot of sites without having to track timetables/routes, etc. However I've never done one and would love feedback.)
• Tube (no brainer)
• River boat (I've read that the Uber boat could be a good option for us? Any itinerary ideas around that are appreciated. Or other boats we should consider.)
• I've heard the London Transport Museum in Covent Gardens is awesome for kids (and maybe free?) and since I want to CG anyway, thought it might be fun to pop in if we have time. Thoughts? I've also heard the Postal Museum has fun transportation features for kids and its near Islington.
London Eye (it’s touristy but my kids will love; I've done it once during the day — is it better day or night?)
Retail (Yes, we have toy stores in Chicago, but it's Christmas and my kids will love it. We plan to give them some spending money as an early Christmas gift. Plus, I figure it's a good way to enjoy Christmas decorations?):
• Hamleys Toy Store
• Lego Leister square
• Should we go to Harrods too? (I've been but it was before I had kids)
Princess Diana Memorial Playground (I’ve always wanted to see it)
Classic pubs with fireplace! My husband and I love British pub culture. I'm dreaming of spending every night eating in a classic cozy pub next to a roaring fire.
Islington Recommendations! Best places to eat, visit, see, walk, to in Islington. Would especially love recs of Islington's coziest pubs and best GF restaurants.
Food we want to eat (and needs to be GF)
• Fish and chips
• Cornish pasty (I don't know if GF ones exist...help!)
• Curry (luckily Indian food is 95% GF but would love recs
• Other amazing GF food?
Posted by
UK (London - Chelsea Harbour)
147 posts
Okay, you have two kids and two days, so I think you should dial your expectations WAAAAY down. :-)
London at Christmas is a festive, splendid, gorgeous, hectic MESS. You will get far less done than you’d like.
With kids, I agree that Covent Garden is a no brainer. And it is very different from Borough Market, which is mostly food stalls, fresh produce, cheese shops, etc., with some gifts and other stuff. Covent Garden is a large early 19th century mall, if you will, with interior aisles containing many small shops, plus food stalls and restaurants. There are lights and decorations galore, charming street performers, delightful shops, delicious food, and a toy shop that I think is higher quality than Hamley’s (which is RAMMED at Christmas - it honestly gives me a headache just thinking about it).
I would recommend CG if you have to choose between it and Borough Market. CG is Christmas Central, and delightful for kids.
Benjamin Pollock's Toyshop in Covent Garden Is full of amazing theatrical and educational toys and is just a treat. Yes, it will also be packed, but the offerings are of such high quality that it’s where I would choose over Hamley’s, hands down. There’s also a Moomin store in CG. And the London Transport Museum is very fun for kids, as you suspect!
The Lamb and Flag (https://www.lambandflagcoventgarden.co.uk/) is steps from Covent Garden, is steeped in history, and has a real (roaring) fire!
In short, Covent Garden and environs could take one entire day of the two that you have. I’d recommend thar.
Harrod’s will also be rammed. It is almost too busy to be a good experience, and I am not sure what your kids will get out of being buffetted by packed crowds of people who are much taller than they are preventing them from seeing much. Ditto for Hamley’s and Lego Leicester Square.
Do not waste your time and money on a hop on/hop off bus. Here are TFL routes that take you by and to touristic places, for a VERY low price:
https://londonblog.tfl.gov.uk/2018/11/20/london-bus-routes-for-sightseeing/
The best fish and chips in London is The Golden Union, at 38 Poland Street, near Carnaby Street and Liberty London (both of which I also recommend). Website: https://goldenunion.co.uk/
Seriously, the fish is SUPER fresh and crispy, the chips are amazing, the staff are lovely, the space is clean and cute. and the jukebox is free. They also have a spacious bathroom that is clean and not down a precipitous flight of stairs, which is a big deal in central London.
The Princess Diana Memorial Playground is fine… but it will be winter and you have two days. I’d skip it.
Cornish pasty in London? You’re not in Cornwall. Pasties are better there. I’d skip.
There are many GF options at restaurants in England. Almost every menu clearly marks those offerings, so you shouldn’t have to worry on that front. As for an entirely “GF restaurant…” I am not sure those exist.
Dishoom is the obvious choice for a curry meal. There are many branches and all seem reliably good. Again, GF is indicated on the menu.
Markets: there are many. Somerset House (near the Strand) gets all decked out for Christmas, with lots of cute boutique stalls and classy retail nooks. They have a skating rink, too - excellent for kids! Spitalfields Marker is superb year-round, and has tons of fun food choices, plus vendors of all manner of fun and delightful gifts. There are tons more, including Brick Lane, various box parks, the Stables Market in Camden… again, your time is limited, so I would choose a minimum of destinations and not knock yourselves out trying to rush hither and yon to try and fit too much in.
Whatever you choose, you’ll have a blast. London is already starting to be slathered in bling as of today (November 4!) and Chrimbo season hasn’t even properly started. By the time you get here, the joy and cheer will be dialed up to 11!
Posted by
Lake District, England
7758 posts
Gluten Free Cornish Pasties certainly exist, at least in Cornwall.
Rather than waste time searching for them in London there are several Cornish Pasty makers from Cornwall who ship worldwide. Google such companies and order them that way is what I would suggest.
Anyone from Cornwall will doubtless have their favourite, but to me the differences are pretty subtle.
Posted by
Sidney, BC, Canada
975 posts
Volva has some good advice re Covent Garden and buses. Consider a twilight visit to Trafalgar Square to see the 25 metre tall lighted Christmas Tree. Story behind the tree; it is given to London by the city of Oslo, Norway in thanks for assistance to Norway during WWII. It was my go-to treat when growing up in UK, and after off for carol singing in St Martin’s in the Field.
I think river boat trip is weather dependent - I think you need a sunny day and a boat trip where there is a commentary so you know what you are seeing, not sure Uber gives that. The boys would probably love visiting the Cutty Sark, a tea clipper (sailing ship)from the 1800’s, otherwise not I don’t think there is much in Greenwich to interest kids of that age.
Posted by
San Franciso Bay Area, USA
1026 posts
Hi Bridget,
I was in London in early December last year and will be back this December. There are a couple of things to consider doing with your family that are memorable experiences.
- Combine seeing all the Christmas Lights with afternoon tea. Last year, I went on a Christmas lights bus tour with Brigit's Bakery. They have an number of options (we did the Grinchmas tour) and you can order gluten free. This tour takes you by all the major Christmas lights (Trafalgar, Rengent, Oxford Street, Winter Wonderland, etc) on a Christmas themed bus. I was pleasantly surprised at how good the food was and on a short trip, you get a great overview of the Christmas magic without the hassle of walking to different parts of the city.
- Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park. If you and your family like amusement parks, Winter Wonderland is a fun place to spend a few hours. They have carnival rides and games, ice skating, Christmas market shops, and food. It is recommended that you book tickets in advance.
- London Eye. I have been on this about 3 times, 2 in the day and one at night (Last December). The Eye is beautiful at night. It is a bit more challenging to see all the landmarks at night, but you do get a great view of the all the Christmas lights.
- Kew Garden Christmas lights are spectacular. This is a big family-oriented event. Kew goes all out with light and music displays. They have a small carnival area, a fire pit to roast marshmallows, food kiosks along they way. It typically sells out early, so if interested, would get the tickets as soon as possible. I went in 2019 and then again last year. The lighting and music were incredible, even better than the fountains at the Bellagio in Vegas.
- Harrods: It is beautifully decorated at Christmas, but it was too much of a zoo for me and I won't be going back this December. If you plan on going to Harrods, go early and not on a weekend so you won't be fighting the crowds.
Posted by
Singapore
543 posts
You asked about the London Transport Museum - my answer would be absolutely yes. If your kids are into vehicles, they will love it.
Re Harrods, I'm not personally a fan - I prefer Fortnum & Mason and Liberty. As noted, any shops in London at that time will be extremely busy - but don't let that put you off. I was in Fortnums last year mid-December and true enough the ground floor food area was madness, and they had a one-way entry/exit system in place, but the other floors were much less busy.
Posted by
UK
716 posts
I wouldn’t think of pubs as places to take a 7 and 5 year old, but they would be okay at lunchtime in a pub with a restaurant I guess.
But please do remember that pubs are bars first and foremost and especially in the evenings.
Posted by
UK (London - Chelsea Harbour)
147 posts
Hi Golden Girl!
We see children in pubs all the time! :-) That is - during the day.
From infants in buggies to toddlers with the zoomies to annoying emo tweens trying to ignore their parents, kids are everywhere. They are very much welcome - and with no restrictions about whether the pub has food.
That said, you make an excellent point about night time! At night, nah. I would not take kids. At night, pubs are very much drinking establishments. And from what OP says, it sounds like her dream is just she and her partner in a pub by a roaring fire at night. Without childcare arrangements, that might be tough.
Great pick-up.
Posted by
Some fantastic place
243 posts
A significant number of pubs these days welcome families with children for the bulk of the day, particularly if they serve food, otherwise they would go out of business pretty quickly. Many pubs will have a note on the door saying "children welcome until insert time", which is normally between 7 and 8pm depending on the day of the week. If in doubt ask, but it is far from from unusual to see children in pubs now - certainly the 'locals' near me do and many I have been elsewhere do too.
Posted by
CT by way of FL
212 posts
Tip about the London Transport Museum -
You have to buy an annual pass, which I thought was a pain. UNTIL we were back at Covent Gardens and needed to use the bathroom. That annual pass sure came in handy then! My boys were 10 and 8 when we went, but they really enjoyed the museum (Covent Gardens itself not so much, but we weren't there at Christmas). They also enjoyed the Cutty Sark, and you could take a boat back from Greenwich; even in less than ideal weather, it was a nice trip. They also really loved the London Zoo, which I would imagine would be decorated for Christmas. I just asked them their Top Twos and they said Zoo and Natural History/Science Museums. The WonderLab is an extra fee, but really cool (and pretty self-contained, so you don't have to worry about losing them). The nearby Ampersand Hotel offers a Science Tea that looks really cool. We couldn't fit it in, but I wish we had!
Have a great trip!